erikrichard

I used paint remover to remove the blue from mine recently and i think it looks much better even if the paint hadn't been peeling. That emblem is far too big and the blue just draws more attention to it.

i've always believed that changing oil/filter every 5k miles with the cheapest oil is far better than changing at 10k miles with the most expensive oil. And if you are changing it that frequently, there is absolutely no difference in engine protection between the cheapest and the most expensive. Using Amsoil or Royal Purple at over 2x the price of Supertech every 10k miles is false economy, especially since I believe this is too long between oil changes no matter what you use. I'd use Supertech conventional but since their full synthetic is only $3 more for the 5 qt jug why not. BMW and most on the BMW forums recommend Castrol Edge synthetic for my E90 328i every 15k miles. Ridiculous interval, I change it with Supertech synthetic every 5k and I am 100% confident what I do is far better for the engine, no matter how many BMW snobs are aghast someone would put Walmart brand oil in their BMW.

I'm sure it works just as good as the rest, if it were cheaper than Supertech I'd use it.

I'd be willing to bet there is no significant difference between any oils you mention here and Walmart brand Supertech synthetic - that's why I've been using it for years and will continue to do so.

Been using regular in our BMW 3 series for a few years now, these "recommend" premium fuel. We noticed no difference in power or mpg so why pay the extra $5/tank. Why someone would use premium in a vehicle that is recommended to use regular is beyond me.

Have you tried pushing with your hand on the glass towards the closed position after hitting the button? This may coax it past the point where it stops 3" from closing.

My 2010 awd Limited gives an extremely smooth and quiet ride with no rattles. Power and gas mileage are excellent for a vehicle of this size, seats and legroom are superb and the premium sound system is very nice. The navigation is a joke so I use google maps on my iphone, and the huge Ford emblem on the front grill is the only asthetic let down.

Just thought I'd share my experience. I recently bought a 2010 Limited awd Edge with 117,000 miles. I did a drain/fill on the trans and a couple drain fills on the coolant and replaced the spark plugs which were most definitely original. The Carfax I received showed regular oil changes, and was done right before I bought it by the dealer who sold it to me. I removed the ptu fill plug and stuck a white zip tie all the way down into it, and what came out was golden brown fluid that smelled just like new gear oil, not a hint of this black mess I keep reading about. There is nothing in the carfax to show the ptu has been touched, and I'm making the assumption it's never been touched, although of course I may be wrong. I called the dealer and asked them their opinion on whether I should change the fluid they said no, just keep an eye out for any leaks and leave it alone otherwise. It's hard to understand all the disasters I've read about these Ford ptus, and the pics of the black tar inside the cases are simply hard to believe. The only thing that makes sense is that Ford hasn't done a good enough job with the tolerances when building these ptus, and a sizeable percentage come off the line just far enough off to allow seals to fail, transmission fluid to enter the ptu, overheating caused by the gears not aligned properly etc. I believe that the vast majority of these ptus are good for the life of the vehicle, however long that lasts, but if you are unlucky enough to get a poorly build unit you end up with black goo and lack of lubrication. In other words, I don't think it's a design failure due to being too close to the cat, or too little fluid capacity as some think, but rather tolerances that are too large that produce a small % of ptus that don't last, while most are fine for the life of the vehicle without fluid replacement as Ford recommends. I am really relieved at the condition of the fluid inside my ptu, and for anyone considering buying a used Ford with one of these ptus I would tell them not to consider buying it unless you pulled the plug and took a look at the condition of the fluid first. Update: I decided to replace the fluid today anyway, and don't plan to ever open the plug again. What a messy btch of a job.

Lots of places to put a jack, I just don't want to make any imprints or bend anything - this is definitely the heaviest unibody vehicle I've owned. I'll look for that way to lift the whole front, mine is awd but it should be the same up there.

The way the manual covers this is really ridiculous. First they say always use jackstands if working underneath the vehicle, then the only illustration provided is of the single jack point at each corner that only the manual jack fits. They give no guidance whatsoever on how one is supposed to lift a corner to get a jackstand under one of these lift points, nor do they explain how to make a jackstand support the lift point without damaging/crushing the pinch weld seam edge. Googling this provides no pics or videos of how to do this with an Edge, so I'm still in the dark here. Looking under the vehicle, no place looks like a good place for a floorjack. Of all the vehicles I've owned, and I've owned several unibody cars, I've never been stumped like this.

So how does Ford specify to fill the ptu? I've read 1" below the bottom of the fill hole, 1/4" below it and just dribbling out the bottom of the fill hole - I'm confused. I also have no idea how one would go about putting in a precise measurement below the bottom of the fill hole.

Where do you jack the corner up with your floorjack if the stand and hockey puck is placed at the designated pinch weld location?

On four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles, the recommended rotation pattern is a “Double X” so the right front and left rear tires switch positions as do the left front and right rear. https://www.tireindustry.org/tire-maintenance/tire-rotation I wouldn't jack up opposite corners of a vehicle, I would jack up either both sides of the front or rear and do the other end one at a time. You can do whatever you want, it's your vehicle.

A proper rotation is passenger front to driver rear, driver front to passenger left. You can do it the other way if you are lazy, it's still a lot better than not rotating at all.

Where do you put the stand after you have jacked the corner up? Could you use a stand and hockey puck on the pinch weld right next to where you have jacked it up? To properly rotate tires you need to interchange opposite corners, so that means you need 3 out of 4 corners off the ground. You typically have an hour or more to wait for a Discount Tire rotation, and since the car I just bought has new tires and don't even know where they were bought from I'm on my own anyway.

Notched hockey pucks and front subframe? I have a while to figure it out before I have to rotate tires.

$125 ea no thank you.

Vortechtral Did you ever figure out good places for jack stands? I've owned a lot of different vehicles and I've never been more stumped where to place my floor jack and jack stands. The pinch welds are ok for the manual jack that came with the car, but unless you are just changing one tire it's useless.

Water pumps seal and bearing failures typically leak over time, not all at once. Catastropic failures can dump all the coolant in a very short time, but I think a level warning would save engines even in this rare event - engines don't suffer catastrophic damage instantly, pulling over immediately should save it. I don't think checking the level every few hundred miles is good enough, what we need is a level sensor in the expansion tank that triggers an obvious warning light on the dash - similar to what BMW uses. Even installing a new pump at mileage intervals is no guarantee - even new pumps can fail if they came new with a flaw. The only way to protect our engines against what Ford has stupidly done here is to install a level sensor - I'm currently researching the best one to use and how to wire it to the dash.

I've done some searches and found nothing. Has anyone added a coolant level sensor to the expansion tank and maybe wiring it in to the wiper fluid level switch? This seems like a lot simpler solution than just changing the water pump as preventative maintenance, especially when you have posters here with over 250k on original water pumps. My thought is that these pumps don't just go at once, filling the crankcase with coolant and a minute later the engine is trashed. I think in all cases every trashed engine could have been saved with a low coolant warning, just going on my experiences with coolant in the oil and it being caught in time.

My owner's manual says to use Motorcraft specialty green so that's what I used. What did your dealer change yours to?

I've read that the only way to remove the engine is out the bottom, so how could you even do it without a lift?

I think it's very important to check the coolant reservoir every fuel fill up. Once you see the level has gone down if it's not leaking from a hose or something that most likely means the water pump has failed and water is being burned off. Watching the level closely could save your engine by catching a failed wp in time. I would never have bought this Edge if I knew about this design failure, it's inconceivable that Ford has made so many engines whose lives depend on the life of the waterpump.

Thanks. Did a couple dump/fills today on my new to me Edge. After buying it I read about this idiotic internal water pump design, crossing my fingers from here.

I've been doing searches but I'm still unclear. I can't find a radiator cap on my 2010 Edge, does filling the reservoir fill the radiator? seems really odd if it does since the reservoir hose connects to the bottom of the radiator.