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About colinc755

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  1. colinc755

    Wireless charging port

    Mine doesn't really work either. I have an iPhone 13 Pro that I can't get to charge at all. My AirPods Pro will charge but only if I take out the rubber mat and put them in a very specific spot. When I do this it makes my AirPods case really hot. Needless to say, the wireless chargers in these are probably the worst I've seen.
  2. colinc755

    Good(easy) way to check transmission fluid level?

    Where did you get your instructions for the level plug? Maybe you have to do all that on a fusion, but on the Edge with the 2.0 when you turn the steering wheel all the way to the left there's enough clearance to take off the level plug without removing anything but that bolt. It isn't as easy as a dipstick, I'll give you that, but it isn't all that hard either.
  3. colinc755

    2019 Ford Edge SEL - Transmission Fluid Level Check

    In the 2019 edge section I did a large write up about servicing the 8f35 transmission (the one that is in 2019+ edges with the 2.0 engine). It has a level plug in the drivers wheel well that has to be removed while the engine is running and the transmission fluid is at operating temperature to check the level. Unfortunately, the 8f35 is getting to be known as a rough transmission that might fail pretty easily. It needs fluid changes every 30,000 miles at the minimum for it to make it long past the warranty period. Many ford parts if they never have fluid changed will die pretty close to the end of the warranty period, Ford designs those fluids just long enough to do that and then it isn't their problem. As for yours, I don't think its dead yet and there are a few things you could try. 1. I would not recommend putting any Lucas stuff or transmission cure stuff in it, as it will likely just make things worse. These transmissions are designed with very tight tolerances and very specific fluid characteristics so it is probably not a good idea to mess with them. Many of those stop leak products were designed before cars got to be so complicated and computer controlled, so they mostly don't help anymore. 2. The fluid should be immediately changed not flushed at your local ford dealer. At 60,000+ miles, the Mercon in there is going to be pretty spent and the longer you go on the factory fill, the faster that transmission will die. Both the 6f35 and 8f35 react negatively to flushes because they can be very sensitive. In case you don't know the difference, a flush forces all the fluid in there out with pressure and fills the entire transmission with new fluid, while a change just drains the sump (about 1/3rd) of the fluid, and fills that gap with new fluids. For transmissions that are on the more damaged side, a change is way less shocking to them and has a greater chance of success. I also recommend a Ford dealer specifically because they will use OEM fluid, non-OEM fluid also really seems to kill 6f35 and 8f35's, lol I can't stress enough how sensitive these damn things are. 3. The last thing I would recommend is getting your transmission flashed with the latest update. Ford put out an update for the 8f35 in November of last year that attempts to solve some of the surging and bucking these transmissions do at lower speeds. For mine, this update did help a bit, and I imagine it will keep the components inside from waring out as fast since the car is no longer slamming gears left and right. This update will also clear out the adaptive tables of the transmission which will cause it to re-learn your driving style, this may also help with shifts. Sorry that was a whole digest, but these things require a lot of work to keep down the road. Ford has built up a bad reputation for transmissions, and honestly I think a lot of it comes from Ford not telling customers to do all the things I mentioned above. If after all of this nothing helps, unfortunately it just kinda is the way it is until it stops, but usually after the fluid change you'll notice a difference and after an update an even bigger one. It probably would be about a $500 dollar bill at a dealer which can be hard to spare in this economy, but it is way cheaper then going out of pocket for a new 8f35. I hope all that helped, feel free to reply if you have any questions.
  4. Hello Everyone, I don't think this is a common thing but just wanted to make a note of it in case it begins happening to folks over the next few years. I have a 2019 Edge Titanium Elite (302A) with the adaptive swiveling LED headlights. Headlights are a tad confusing on the '19's since there are so many variations of them. From what I have seen there is the base LED equipped lights that SE's and SEL's could come with, the same base LED with the running light strip w/o turn signal strip that SEL's and Titanium's (300A and 301A) models came with, and finally there is the upgraded LED with running light strip and turn signal strip that 302A Titaniums and some highly equipped ST's came with. Anyone that has the 3rd model of headlight in their edge should also have headlight swiveling, but many '19's don't because Ford installed the wrong software at the factory. A dealer will kindly give you that feature that was on your build sheet back for around $250. I am not sure of any failure rates for these 3 styles of headlight, but mine are already dying after only a few short years. My left headlight has stopped swiveling and flickers on and off while driving. Normally people have said that Ford LED's will outlast the car, and while I expect that to mostly hold true, I thought making note of this could be a good idea. These lights are non-serviceable and require the whole 900+ dollar unit to be replaced if they go out. While LED's can be great, this non-serviceable trend becomes very evident when they fail. If anyone else has had this failure, feel free to comment below what it was like and which type of light you have, I am curious to see how all three types age. As for mine, the Ford ESP lighting upgrade is really going to come in handy .
  5. colinc755

    8F35 Fluid Change Tips

    That is good to hear that they left it accessible on the ST. The older 2.0's had a process very similar to yours and it was fairly easy. Good to see you noticed the wheel well accessibility for the level plug, I started thinking about that when I did it last and am going to try it next time. Removing the wheel isn't hard at all, but would be nice to skip if it wasn't absolutely needed. That fluid warmup time is also pretty crazy, I always try to tell people to really get a scan tool for it, because it takes a lot to get it up there.
  6. colinc755

    8F35 Fluid Change Tips

    That’s tough, I remember it taking like 5.5-6qts when it was all said and done but I like to have a margin for error so I always recommend buying 8 quarts for it. It’s around 5 dollars a quart if I remember right.
  7. colinc755

    2020 Engine Temperature

    I don’t think the thermostat that everyone is referring to here is the problem. I too have owned a previous 2018 Edge and a 2019 Edge. I noticed that too when getting the new car. My 2018 used to get up to temp before I even left the neighborhood and the 2019 takes a long time. They made a decent amount of changes to the 2.0 and they could be using different firmware logic. It’s not a TGDI problem because both engines are the same and if it was the thermostat, it would be pretty unlikely that we both noticed the exact same thing.
  8. WARNING: Make sure you can remove both the leveling plug and the fill plug BEFORE draining the transmission!!!! Recently I embarked on a task that was, in theory, simple, but in reality, was hell. That task, of course, was a routine transmission fluid change on the 8F35 transmission (found in 2019+ edges with the 2.0). As it turns out, Ford has made changing the transmission fluid on this car incredibly difficult, but there are some useful things I learned along the way that should hopefully make it easier for any DIY'ers wanting to take this on. The 8F35 fluid change procedure is pretty much identical to the 6F35 procedure found in the '15-'18 2nd gens. This means that there is no dipstick, fluid level is checked by a leveling plug in the left front wheel well. Sounds simple enough, many cars do this, so what's the big deal? Well, Ford decided to absolutely bury the pressure ring fit fill plug underneath a ton of immovable objects (this is unlike the 6f35 which actually had a very easy-to-access fill plug). Like the shop manual says, the airbox must be removed. This is simple enough but because of the amount of "Christmas tree" wiring harness holders, you will likely be cutting a few zip ties. I would actually recommend cutting them because the wiring harness they hold is actually not in danger of hitting anything. Once the airbox is removed you must first find the cap under all the crap they buried it under. Be careful not to damage the MAF when moving the airbox away from the car. Once that is done, filling the transmission is not as simple as removing the top plastic cap. You must also remove the funnel that the cap rests in because Ford placed a piece of plastic in between the cap and the funnel, blocking any fluid that tries to enter. To remove this you must get a pair of needle-nose pliers and pinch in the snap ring and pull up on the assembly. This window that the pliers can fit in is incredibly tiny and removing this funnel will take a lot of patience. Once the funnel is removed, keep track of that plastic piece that sits inside it. You can now fill the transmission with fluid, I would recommend trying to match what came out and add .25qts-.5qts to it (this is because if you pour too little fluid you can't add anymore without removing everything you just removed). Once all the fluid has been added, you must now reinstall the funnel for the cap. This is where the tip comes into play. Because of the amount of stuff in the way, it is pretty impossible to squeeze the snap ring in and also push the funnel down in the right spot at the right time. What I ended up doing to solve this was to squeeze the snap ring in and have a partner wrap a zip-tie around the teeth (of the snap ring) that the pliers were grabbing onto. If you tweak this and get it tight enough, the zip-tie should hold it at maximum tension. I had to use a large zip-tie so that it did not snap. With tension held, the funnel can be easily slipped on and the rest can be reinstalled. You must now hook up a scan tool and go for a test drive to get the fluid hot enough to level it (usually a 20-minute test drive). Just another side note, the leveling plug is torqued an insane amount from the factory so be prepared to break out the breaker bar and extensions to snap it loose. When you get back from this test drive, pray that at least some fluid trickles out of the level, or it's back to step 1. You can actually do an initial level before the test drive by starting the car and running it through all the gears and then checking the level plug. Just make sure the car is still idling when checking the leveling plug. That initial check is only supposed to be for an overhauled transmission, but it could save driving around with too little fluid for half an hour. Anyway, sorry that seemed like a bit of a rant. There is just a lot of unneeded complexity to this routine maintenance item. It seems Ford has made drain and fills extremely difficult, maybe they'd rather people get their transmissions flushed by machines at dealers than to have the fluid changed by regulars at home. To anyone that gives this a shot, good luck. I was originally going to make all of this a video but was too tired and annoyed by the end of all of it. If these instructions aren't clear enough, I may still do that. I will attach the factory ford guide, it makes the job seem WAY easier than it actually is. Transmission Fluid Drain and Refill.pdf
  9. colinc755

    Potential 2.0 downfall...

    I have a 2018, but it was a car that I restored and rebuilt. The car has a rebuilt title so it has no coverage from ford. I am just worried because I wouldn't want the work that I put in to go to waste because the Ford engineers messed another thing up. The car is at 44k and the coolant is at a perfect level. The thing I am trying to get after is the frequency of the problem. Looking at multiple forums it is hard to say because some double post on different sites and its hard to say how the people that are active online compare the thousands of edges on the road. From what I have been told there is no point in time where the engine has proven it will be fine, as I said before some folks say it just shows up one day. I am getting especially nervous because my girlfriend that has a 1.5 Ecoboost escape is getting a new engine because of coolant consumption. The funny thing is I avoided the 3.5 because of the water pump. Ford just cannot seem to figure out engine cooling smh...
  10. colinc755

    Potential 2.0 downfall...

    Been hearing a lot of ramblings online that say the coolant loss problems from the 1.5 ecoboost are also showing up in the 2.0. Folks on the edge Facebook group say that they’ve seen a couple that just start consuming coolant out of the blue well below 100k. Has anyone on here had experience with this. The 2.0 as far as I know is regarded as a robust engine so it’s surprising to hear all this.
  11. colinc755

    Oil catch can on the 2.0L EcoBoost

    How did you get that line off, I gave up on at after awhile.
  12. I am attempting to remove the intake manifold on a 2018 edge 2.0 and this vacuum tube on the side is standing in the way. The problem is I have no clue how to remove it. The Ford official service manual is pitiful, saying “1. push in intake retainer” “2. Remove hose.” If anyone has done this before your help would be greatly appreciated!!! Image: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xrz5QDsKT1WrKj4AxdYOecdeM5VV6lxN/view?usp=drivesdk
  13. colinc755

    E-15 in Ecoboost?

    The gas station by my house just recently got renovated and they added some new fuel types to the mix. The gas cap on my Ecoboost Edge says it can handle E15 but I just wanted to know if anyone has had any experience with it. I have used it for 2 tanks now and I do not notice any tuning differences or gas mileage loss. I just wonder about the claim on the pump that says it "burns cleaner." I wonder if this has any effect on carbon build up or anything, yes I know that in a direct injection engine the fuel quality won't effect how clean the valves are because they aren't sprayed, but maybe the cleaner burn provides less of a chance for build up when both the intake and exhaust valves are open for that small period of time. Regardless the savings in price are nice, especially when it doesn't appear to be doing any harm.
  14. The brand new module I got from the ford dealership came with the 01FF 80DA value so I never had to do any programming. Technically it would be a good idea to reprogram it through IDS, but in my case it was plug and play. If for some reason it came blank then there could be issues. With how easy these are to change out its worth a shot to see if its plug and play.
  15. colinc755

    Long Term Carbon Build Up?

    Did you do a DIY install or take it to a shop? If there’s a good kit for the 2.0 I’d be very interested, I wasn’t aware anyone had made anything for the 2.0.