dabangsta

The manual does say: So yes, they are switched, and not always powered. https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=9611&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&moidRef=G2127957&Uid=G2143359&ProcUid=G2134795&userMarket=USA&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False&buildtype=web

I did mine at 96,000 miles because my rears were worn down to 2-3mm, and it was pretty easy to get them chattering after hard stops (adaptive cruise and mountain passes). the fronts were still over 8mm, could have gone a lot longer before replacing them, but I had ordered the parts and also was upgrading my smaller FWD rotors to larger ones. For some reason I skipped painting the calipers, I always do them on all cars I have owned, but didn't feel it with this one.

Order guide for 2024 shows Oxford White as code YZ, available on the SE, SEL, and SAP (available on the SEL). The door sill sticker shows WB? I don't recall seeing any year Edge available in Performance White.

Even though the owners manual shows there might be both, how many USB ports do you have? The ones at the base of the center stack in the center console are data. I don't think you have any others any place else, not even the center console bin, back of center console, or cargo area. It states that if it has the USB symbol it is data, and a battery symbol it is charge only.

It was very common on mid 2000 to 2010 legacy cars, my 2000 Grand Marquis had a MAF and an IAT separate, but 2003 it was IAT attached to the MAF sensor module. But on a vehicle without a MAF? Or anything not legacy?

While I know that is close to the quotes from brake places, I squirm every time I see that price, after having done my own (and upgrading to the larger AWD brakes for my FWD vehicle) for...$388 (4 coated premium rotors, all pads, all bushings, 2 larger front caliper mounts). $280 without the caliper mounts. Probably didn't have any more required waiting until they were dead, should replace rotors anyways.

Those two tires are basically the same diameter and revs per mile, so as long at the wheels are up to spec as well (offset, width, etc) then they would be fine.

They are not all the same! There are some many factors. While diameter is important, what that diameter does, how many revs per mile, is sometimes easier to see the differences. 2 randomly picked tires that tire rack shows the actual specs for (not the generated from published sizes). I don't think you understand section width versus tread width, and how that can affect the ratio (that 60 in this example which is a percentage).

Should be the dual micro fuse 10/11, that is also for the liftgate. I had to remove the door panel and unplug one of these, it would turn on the lights all night, it got damaged due to water intrusion.

Did you try all doors to see if the light comes on from any of them other than the drivers? If the door is open does the dash say the [which door] door is open? The switch is part of the latch and fails often, and is bypassed frequently so that it doesn't always say it is ajar or not allow it to be locked.

While there are 3 possible configurations for your SEL (standard 6 disc with 4 speakers, SYNC added, or navigation premium sound with 9 speakers), SYNC can require a hard reset, which is done either by removing the fuse (#3 under the dash), the radio (fuse 28), I haven't had a vehicle with stand alone satellite module (fuse #13), or pulling the negative battery cable. I don't know how accessible the fuse panel in yours is, but in my 2012 Fusion, it is easier to pull the battery cable (for ~20 seconds, and turning on the headlights to be sure to discharge power, often if I don't do that, it will not reset, and I can tell because I don't lose time or radio presets). If it has never worked, as suggested, a master reset would also be a good idea. Get rid of the previous owners phones (if it has SYNC/Navigation), do you have a Sirius/XM account? Are you expecting it to work, or hope it has lifetime, or the previous owner left their account active?

I love the MPC remote start in my 2015 Fusion. I have never seen these be an issue, other than the older ones and using lock/lock/lock makes the horn honk. I hope you find your way back after it all and post what works for you. The range for those keys/fobs isn't great, it is another limitation that either of these solutions (new IKT with 5 buttons, or aftermarket add on without including longer distance fobs (which they offer)) solve. Mine can't always work through all the walls to the garage, or to the parking spot on the road.

Your SEL has the IKT (the key start, key has the remote fob on the head). There are aftermarket remote starts that are easy to add that use the factory key (usually lock/unlock/lock sequence). You have to have 2 already programmed keys to successfully use the aftermarket kits.

Nexen tires can be okay. Most of their A/S tires are M&S rated, so without knowing what model, hard to make a determination of they factor into it or not. Wider low profile tires are more likely to be affected by tramlining, but there are vehicle dynamics that can affect it as well. I wouldn't suspect the AWD system to play a role in this issue. I suffered from from it a bit on one of my older cars. It stock had 215 wide tires, and I put 265 wide rear, 235 front, with wider rims in the rear, that left the outer edge to edge of the rear tires over 2 inches wider than the front. Not only concrete roads, but just rutted pavement from high ambient temps would cause it also metal grated causeways were interesting. It didn't feel dangerous which is sorta what it feels you are describing, a not locked in vehicle at only 70 seems sketchy.

Or a completely new type of PTU with the disconnect?