dabangsta

Try Lock/Unlock/Lock if it is an aftermarket recently released device. Ford dealer installed remote start is a separate fob with a single button.

You might want to ask if anyone can post the connector pinout and wire colors for your 2023 for the rear view mirror and the rain sensor. It pulls straight away from the windshield, there are 4 clips that hold it in place:

You should pop off the cover like it says and check. My 2019 SEL has 5 pin wiring to the rear view mirror, I was able to find the male and female connectors and pins to make my own harness to get switched 12v from the rear view mirror. I wasn't willing to spend $42 on a Dongar adapter, or $150 like the one you posted.

FWD is 19 gallons, AWD is 20 gallons.

That is called the Backup slot. That is where you would place your key fob if the battery was dead, or for some other reason it wasn't detected in the cabin (try to start and it says "no key detected"). Also it can be used to program a new key, and to get your securicode door keypad code.

Which engine cover did you pick up? Is it a Ford one with the right configuration for where the oil fill and dipstick are? I planned on the Lincoln one since I couldn't find the Ford one in stock anywhere, and don't feel like hacking up the foam since 2019+ is different than earlier ones.

I did the larger rotor swap a few months ago. The brackets were readily available on Rock Auto to use the standard non ST calipers. I felt that the ST calipers would be too much change for a vehicle that has Adaptive Cruise with Stop and Go. The master cylinder even for the AWD rotors versus FWD is different, a lot more things are different for the ST and ST PP brakes. I also didn't go with drilled/slotted since this is both our daily driver and our vacation vehicle. I have around 6,000 miles on the new brakes and all is wearing well, all advanced braking things like stop and go adaptive cruise, ABS, etc work, and they have been hammered on and no fade in the mountains as before. Make sure you have a large enough spare for the front, or know you will be putting the spare on the rear if you get a flat in the front. I found a relatively cheap 18 inch spare from an MKX.

Can't swipe down in the map. It either scrolls the map, or does nothing. From the vehicle view it does update it, but that means leaving the map, doing that, then going back to the map.

A recent update brought it back! The reload circle arrow in the upper right can be used (only once every 30 seconds) to update the current location while it is being driven. I don't know when or what version of FordPass on Android got it, I pretty much gave up on it, but my wife got a flat tire (FordPass let me know) so I checked the location since it said it was running and not parked, and it's current location wasn't where it was parked last, and it updated to a closer location once I used the reload button.

I generally reset the trip each way, but decided to get a round trip view, since there are a variety of mountains on this trip and end at different elevations. Observations... I was on track to equal the EPA highway rating (even though that really isn't interstate driving if you look at the cycle) of 29mpg until: 10 minutes of 30-40 sustained, 60+ gusts of wind (and sand storm) dropped the average from 28.5 to 28 20(ish) seconds of WOT up a hill to get out of a bad situation developing (2 semis that couldn't maintain their lanes) dropped it from 28 to 27 This trip starts at 2200 ft elevation, tops out at around 5000 ft, and ends at 3900 ft The average speed of 77 mph is on par with what I usually average on this trip, as it is 98% interstate, 2 times 75>65 in city, and about 10 miles of highway at 65>55 I can knock 1 mpg off my average over 300 miles simply being aggressive getting on the interstate on a short on ramp (but I won't try merging at 35 mph either) Overall not bad for fuel mileage, but it is very easy to blow it up, winds really affect it, as does accelerating to pass people, especially over hills. Adaptive Cruise and being alert but not overdoing it goes a long ways. I would love to say I could set the cruise at 75 and just do that, but with the hills, semis, wrecks towing wrecks (people that buy cheap cars and drag them to Mexico/Guatemala), 75 mph is just...hard to maintain without speeding up and slowing down. I could easily get 30/31 mpg on this drive in my 2017 Escape with the 1.5. But I could also get really terrible mileage with wind, which is a big issue on this drive. I would get 25 mpg in my 2000 Grand Marquis (which I miss).

What gear oil? PTU? Rear diff? Or are you talking about the transmission? Any of them benefit from shorter change intervals.

One is Lane Keeping, that can be enabled and used without the Adaptive Cruise Control being used. It will alert you of leaving your lane (shake wheel, red section in dash display), and very lightly attempt to correct it with a little torque on the wheel. That is enabled or disabled by the button on the end of the stalk (not wiper, turn signal). The other is Lane Centering. It will provide enough torque to keep your vehicle in the lane, even in turns. It is only on with Adaptive Cruise Control, and is controlled by the button in the cruise control section that has a steering wheel on it. I read the owners manual about all the new stuff I had never had, and even if I don't use it, get familiar with it. I like Lane Centering, it really makes long trips less stressful. It doesn't steer for itself, I am still steering, but it lets me relax a bit.

Your battery is in okay shape. Nothing about any of those numbers indicate a current issue, or point to its demise anytime soon. I don't think any of your current issues are caused by the battery. I ran my 2017 Escape down to 225 CCA for 6+ months, but it was annoying, and not worth it.

Generally when you take in a battery to be tested, they: usually charge it (you only gives a full good result starting as charged as it can get) use a tester that tests and prints out: SoH (State of Health) (??generally CCA compared to rated CCA??) CCA (how many amps it can provide for 30 seconds at 0 degrees without dipping below 7v) Rated CCA (how many CCA is should be brand new) SoC (State of Charge) (current voltage vs rated voltage percentage, can be low if not charged, but only real handy if charged fully before test) Internal Resistance (can show an internal issue, like a dead or shorted cell) voltage (not as handy as other numbers) Often times shortcuts are taken, or the test isn't good enough to show the actual issue. Most places will give you the results (instead of just saying "it good"). They are more likely to do a full correct test if you are attempting to warranty the battery at the place it was bought from.

I am confused. Are there drivability concerns, or are you looking at the Intelligent AWD Information display, or something else, like the Lane Keeping and it is visually alerting you of crossing a line? I haven't seen a 2019 AWD display, and if it accounts for the new to 2019 disconnect or not. I have only seen it show front and rear bias, not side to side, which would be ESC but usually not in minor normal driving.