dabangsta

All I have ever found was a specialized screw driver bit that was broken in half, under the carpet of an older Ford. https://fordauthority.com/2025/07/assembly-workers-wallet-found-inside-2015-ford-edge-after-11-years-video/amp/

Battery change is only the small back, it doesn't split it in half to expose the circuit board. Is it enough to dump alcohol in and then let it dry? Probably.

Is it still detected if you place it in the emergency backup slot and try to start the vehicle (if it isn't detected if just inside the cabin)? If it is, I personally would buy a used OEM fob off eBay to replace it. You need to make sure you get the right one (remote start or not), and make sure you already don't have 4 keys programmed in. I picked up an OEM fob for $30 off eBay, but unfortunately the previous owner lost 2 keys, so it has 4 programmed in already, so I can't simply add one. There are replacement cases for them, but I can't tell if you can non destructively pull the case apart or not, it seems sonic welded but I don't have one to sacrifice to test it. I only find videos for other keys, mostly because they are more likely to be broken than these.

Thanks, I updated it because I was wrong. 2016 might require a USB hub update to work with CarPlay (had to swap it on a 2016 Escape, but not a 2017).

That is SYNC with MyFord Touch (SYNC 2). The Edge had that 2013-2015 2013-2016. 20172016-2020 is SYNC 3. 2021+ is SYNC 4A. 2007-2012 is SYNC with voice activated nav. Only 2013 and newer, SYNC3/4a support Carplay. I don't know if the early SYNC 3 in this vehicle needs an updated hub for CarPlay (I don't think it does). There are various options if it has SYNC2 and CarPlay, very DIY or kits to SYNC 3, or some add on boards. Edited to fix year range, I got it wrong (I focused on SYNC Connect and not SYNC)

It is interesting that the 2.0 FHEV is both port and DI, I didn't know that. Some vehicles with the 2.3 got dual injection in 2024. (I know other engines got it earlier) Port Injection is more for when it is idling and moderate throttle position (it helps with misfires at low speeds compared to DI), and under demand or high throttle position it uses the Direct Injection.

Try Lock/Unlock/Lock if it is an aftermarket recently released device. Ford dealer installed remote start is a separate fob with a single button.

You might want to ask if anyone can post the connector pinout and wire colors for your 2023 for the rear view mirror and the rain sensor. It pulls straight away from the windshield, there are 4 clips that hold it in place:

You should pop off the cover like it says and check. My 2019 SEL has 5 pin wiring to the rear view mirror, I was able to find the male and female connectors and pins to make my own harness to get switched 12v from the rear view mirror. I wasn't willing to spend $42 on a Dongar adapter, or $150 like the one you posted.

FWD is 19 gallons, AWD is 20 gallons.

That is called the Backup slot. That is where you would place your key fob if the battery was dead, or for some other reason it wasn't detected in the cabin (try to start and it says "no key detected"). Also it can be used to program a new key, and to get your securicode door keypad code.

Which engine cover did you pick up? Is it a Ford one with the right configuration for where the oil fill and dipstick are? I planned on the Lincoln one since I couldn't find the Ford one in stock anywhere, and don't feel like hacking up the foam since 2019+ is different than earlier ones.

I did the larger rotor swap a few months ago. The brackets were readily available on Rock Auto to use the standard non ST calipers. I felt that the ST calipers would be too much change for a vehicle that has Adaptive Cruise with Stop and Go. The master cylinder even for the AWD rotors versus FWD is different, a lot more things are different for the ST and ST PP brakes. I also didn't go with drilled/slotted since this is both our daily driver and our vacation vehicle. I have around 6,000 miles on the new brakes and all is wearing well, all advanced braking things like stop and go adaptive cruise, ABS, etc work, and they have been hammered on and no fade in the mountains as before. Make sure you have a large enough spare for the front, or know you will be putting the spare on the rear if you get a flat in the front. I found a relatively cheap 18 inch spare from an MKX.

Can't swipe down in the map. It either scrolls the map, or does nothing. From the vehicle view it does update it, but that means leaving the map, doing that, then going back to the map.

A recent update brought it back! The reload circle arrow in the upper right can be used (only once every 30 seconds) to update the current location while it is being driven. I don't know when or what version of FordPass on Android got it, I pretty much gave up on it, but my wife got a flat tire (FordPass let me know) so I checked the location since it said it was running and not parked, and it's current location wasn't where it was parked last, and it updated to a closer location once I used the reload button.