Wubster100

I popped the IPMA cover off and luckily I have the 2 radar wires. I lifted it off with my hands on the part that is closest to the front. There are 4 clips as shown in the WSM. Hopefully the wires will continue down through all of the other connectors and into the bumper. I have tried to research all of the Ford forums that mention retrofitting ACC. I ordered a CCM and wire connector, they should be arriving soon. When they arrive I will try to install the radar and play around to see if I can get anything to work without replacing the ABS or SCCM. If we are able to replace the ABS module with FORScan, that would be nice. Do you have any information on the lower grill? What do we need it for? Edit: It looks like there is a cover in the center. What is the purpose of the cover? I wonder if the cover can be replicated by attaching a piece of plastic to the lower bumper? Edit: I would assume that we would just need plastic to cover the area so that no debris can hit the radar.

It seems that 2018 F-150 owners were having a FORScan issue programming ABS. This was a few years ago, so I am going to assume that the FORScan team has figured out the problem by now. Additionally, Fusion owners were able to replace their ABS module and get stop and go to work with FORScan. Comparing photos of the Edge and Fusion ABS modules, they look almost identical. I will have to try and find out for certain. If not, I will have to get a 2 day Motorcraft license.

I will be using FORScan to program the features and calibrate the new radar. I will most likely not do any firmware updates, as my lane keep assist has been doing a good job at recognizing markings. I have not calculated selling and purchasing another Edge with Stop and Go ACC. I plan on keeping my 2021 SEL until it does not make financial sense to repair. Hopefully it can last to 200k miles. I don’t want to go through a hassle of buying and selling vehicles. So far, I have been able to use FORScan to install puddle lights and OEM remote start. I drilled holes into my mirrors, installed cheap LEDs, wired the lights as if they were OEM, and enabled them using FORScan. I replaced my RTM and got a 5 button key fob (300mhz to 900mhz). For this ACC project, I will be sourcing used parts to save on cost. I will not be following the programmable parameters in SSM 51055. Instead, I will be installing ACC (along with lane centering, stop and go, evasive steering assist, upgraded AEB (IPMA + CCM as opposed to IPMA only), and I might even try speed sign recognition) as if it came from the factory. I can’t think of any other problems that I might run into. Hopefully everything will work. Once again, thanks for all of the helpful documentation.

Thank you for all of the information. It has been extremely helpful. From my research, (all non-hybrid) Escape, Bronco, and Maverick owners that tried to retrofit stop and go seemed to be reporting somewhat limited brake performance because they did not have an electric brake booster. This is great news, as it is one less part we need for ACC stop and go! I wonder why those other Fords needed electric brake boosters for better braking performance, but the Edge does not? With this new information, I don't see any more challenges in the way, and I believe that I have all of the information necessary to install ACC stop and go. I will start ordering parts and see what happens!!

I have read somewhere that IPMA firmware upgrades have helped the camera follow lane markings better, and avoid tar stripes.

Does the 2019-2024 Edge with ACC stop and go use an electronic brake booster or a vacuum brake booster? I tried to look though my WSM and library resources, but I couldn’t find anything about an electronic brake booster. My hypothesis is that an Edge with stop and go ACC will have an electronic break booster, while an Edge without ACC will have a vacuum break booster.

Thank you for all of the documents. It seems that Ford Escapes, Mavericks, and Broncos are running into a brake issue. Vehicles with factory adaptive cruise with stop and have an electronic brake booster which is able to provide greater breaking support, whereas vehicles without factory adaptive cruise use a traditional vacuum brake booster. I searched through my 2020 workshop manual, and I could not find anything about electronic brake boosters. From my 2020 WSM: On vehicles equipped with adaptive cruise control, the CCM monitors the area forward of the vehicle. When an object enters this area and closes the distance gap set by the driver, the CCM sends either an adaptive cruise control deceleration request or a collision avoidance deceleration request to the IPMA over a private LIN. The IPMA then sends the message to the ABS module over the HS-CAN2. When the deceleration request message is received, the ABS module activates the hydraulic pump motor and solenoid valves in the HCU to slow the vehicle down to maintain the distance gap set by the driver. Once the distance gap set by the driver is achieved, the CCM stops sending the deceleration request message and the ABS module deactivates the hydraulic pump motor and solenoid valves in the HCU. If the CCM determines the amount of braking provided by the ABS module is insufficient, the CCM sends a forward collision avoidance braking request message to the ABS module and warns the driver, both audibly and visually, through the use of the HUD. After receiving the braking request message, the ABS module waits for brake pedal input and applies maximum braking assist using the hydraulic pump motor and the HCU. I am unsure if the Edge needs an electronic brake booster for ACC. So far, the only difference I have found is in the ABS module. Vehicles with adaptive cruise control have "CADS3" on the ABS module, while vehicles without adaptive cruise control have "ACC SS" on the ABS module.

Are you able to provide the wiring diagrams for the CCM and IPMA? I am looking for the CCM and IPMA pinout. I am trying to figure out how the IPMA wire runs down to the bumper and where all of the connections are, and also where the CCM gets its power from. I don't know if my vehicle is prewired for a CCM, or if I will have to run a wire from the IPMA to the CCM. Thanks.

My 2021 doesn’t want to update. It’s behind on sync updates. I don’t have any of the apps or games. I only have the basic stuff and the drawing app. It always shows that no updates are available.

Edit: removed my comment because it isn’t helpful.

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After further research, I believe I need the following parts: Cruise Control Module Radar, CCM Mount, CCM Wire Connector / wiring harness, misc. wire to run between IPMA and CCM, SCCM switch (probably optional), and an ABS/HCU module for ACC.

Glare free highbeams: https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/feu/en/news/2016/03/18/drivers-can-now-keep-the-high-beams-on-worry-free--new-ford-head.html You should be able to enable glare free with FORScan as long as you have the dual projector headlights.

Certainly! It is a 2021 Ford Edge SEL. What configuration do you need?

2019 2020 2021 2024 Ford Edge Adaptive Cruise Control Install Retrofit Lane Centering Stop and Go ACC - - - I have a 2021 Edge with standard cruise control. Has anyone successfully got adaptive cruise control with stop and go and lane centering to work on a 2019+ edge? I have read other posts about regular ACC but I can't seem to find too much information on lane centering.

Time to do a retrofit! hehe edit: whoops this post is old

Locksmith came and was able to program and cut the new 900mhz fob. I used the 5 button aftermarket clone fob and everything worked instantly. I don’t have a power liftgate, but when I press the 2x trunk button, the liftgate unlocks as if I pressed the button on the bottom of it.

Are you using glare-free highbeam or auto highbeam?

I thought FORScan PATS programming only works up to MY2020. I believe that PATS changed for 2021?

I believe there is a fan inside of the cooled seats that sucks in air from the bottom of the seats and disperses the air out through the holes in the seat. I'm not sure if it is possible to replace parts of the existing seat to get the cooling feature, or if it is better to get a new seat. You would have to compare your edge to the same model year as an edge with cooled seats. You would have to look at the wiring diagrams for the cooled seats to figure out how to connect the seats. Then, you can use FORScan to enable the cooled seats so that they can function and you can control the cooling on the screen.

I removed the new 900mhz RTM and installed the 300mhz RTM. The DTC went away. I saved the AsBuilt data file to my computer. I installed the 900mhz RTM again and I wrote the AsBuilt file that I just saved to it. It said no data to write, but I just did the force write anyway and the DTC disappeared. I did the RTM module reboot and TPMS relearn mode. I went for a short drive and the tire pressures are working again with the 900mhz RTM. Now all I need to do is get a locksmith to program my 900mhz key.

I got my new 900mhz RTM and key fob. I remove the old 300mhz RTM and replaced it with the new 900mhz RTM. As expected, my old 300mhz key fob only works in the emergency slot, and I lost TPMS. I got a DTC: RTM U2100:00-2F Initial Configuration Not Complete. I went to the AsBuilt Configuration for the RTM and I loaded factory data from the internet. Then I did the module reset for the RTM. The DTC still remained. I did the tire pressure monitoring system train, and I was asked to retrain the front left tire. I don’t have the TPMS learning tool so I let about 6psi out of the tire instead. It didn’t seem to do anything so I just aborted the TPMS procedure. I took a drive and about a minute later my tire pressures started to pop up in the IPC because they automatically learned. I have tried to do the RTM module reset multiple times but the DTC still remains. Maybe I have to plug in my 300mhz RTM and save the AsBuilt data and write it to the new 900mhz RTM?? I only have one 300mhz key, and I haven’t programmed any 900mhz keys yet.

What do you mean by designation on the part itself? Was ML3T-15K619-JA on the sticker of the part, but ML3Z-15607-K was on the website?

I only have one key, so I will need a locksmith to program a second key. My understanding is that the RTM is not required for programming a key? If the key is programmed correctly, it should be able to start the car using the emergency slot inside of the center console? My plan is to: 1. Save the asbuilt data from my old RTM. 2. Install the new RTM. 3. I should still be able to start the car with my old 300mhz key using the emergency slot. 3. Make the new asbuilt changes to the new RTM and enable remote start. 4. Have a locksmith program the new 900mhz key. 5. Hopefully the new key should work.