Samurai Edge

I have found, on another brand car, that pads and rotors needed to be updated from OEM because braking was so poor with OEM equipment. In the case of the Ford Edge, I was surprised at how good the braking and stopping is with OEM parts. As far as slotted rotors I had on the previous car, I found that in wet conditions, the car stopped faster than non-slotted, because the slots gave the water on the rotors a place to go instead of water build-up behind the pads needing to get pushed out upon brake application. This was most important in panic stops. We all have to deal with panic stops once in a while and it can be the difference between a wreck and no interference.

Very nice looking vehicle. You didn't say how many miles were on the car. Don't forget to check any supplied maintenance records for engine oil, transmission and radiator fluid changes as well. If none supplied, better safe now than sorry later.

I have never seen coated rotors stay coated for very long. Give it about a year of use up here in the NE and there is virtually no coating but mine have never seen as much rust as yours are showing in your picture. Your rotor looks like it has seen some heavy wear. I see what looks like multiple score lines and chatter marks. I have also seen several people above mention shudder or shimmy when applying brakes. That is typically from rotor dust baked onto the rotors from overly light braking. Easily removed by application of several 60 - 10 MPH panic stops. This will burn off the deposits. Just be careful wherever you do this so you don't cause an accident. Empty roads later at night are usually best.

My initial thought, as enigma suggested, would be any doughnut or gasket connection between the exhaust pipes. That's typically the first place to start. Look at highly rusted areas and tap on them with the handle of a screwdriver. Listen for dead sounds as opposed to ringing sounds when tapping. A dead sound is an indication of worn out areas which you obviously can't see. Check all the muffler connections as well as the muffler bodies themselves. A sure-fire way to find leaks if they don't become obvious, is to put the car up on a lift or high quality ramps or jack stands, start the car, and giving it a few minutes to warm-up, crawl underneath and listen for where the leak may be coming from. Done it more than once. BTW, since you ne=ver mentioned where you think the sound is coming from, as a starting point for this discussion, I suggest you also check your exhaust manifolds and their gaskets as well. I have seen them go bad before. BTW, if the exhaust heat up, and the two (2) pipes were slightly loose when cold, the pipes will expand as they heat up and seal the small space closed. We are talking about small gap. Some headers were designed to work that way.

I seem to recall this very subject was recently discussed in another post. You might search this section for that and find your answer

Of course you can do this. You should have bought a Ford F-150. LOTS of videos available on how to replace the fold down seat latch. All I could find on the Ford Edge was how to fold down the rear seats.

What are you trying to understand? Push the button, that half of the seat folds down. It's that simple. No magic involved or needed.

I looked at these " plugs " on my car yesterday. They are not plugs. They are simply loosely fit covers making a larger hole look smaller. Apparently just to try to keep some extra dirt out from the bottom of the door but that hole the covers cover is still open to the environment.

I suppose it's possible. At 60K miles, I would have had the brake lines flushed with all new fluid. As andyman stated above, pushing dirty fluid back up into the brake system is never a good idea. The " something rubbing in the front area " could well have been the brake wear indicators, if the new brake pads had them. Sometimes they come new out of the factory out of adjustment and need to be reset. They are just a simple metal tab that are supposed to start scratching against the rotor when a brake pad has worn too thin. Also, " warped rotors " are really a myth. Unless the rotors were of poor manufacture, they do not warp. What most everyone calls " warped rotors " is really a build-up of brake dust on the rotors, causing the brakes to chatter against the rotor when you apply the brakes. There is a simple way to eliminate that chatter in most cases.

All well and good that the dealership is willing to swap you into a different vehicle. Just remember not to blame the vehicle itself. Always the problem when buying a used vehicle is you never really know how the vehicle was treated prior to your purchase. Hopefully you get the right vehicle for your needs with zero problems. Good Luck.

First of all, you realize this post started 2 1/2 years ago. Many people on many different forums, post questions and never return. They think they get their answer and stop. " Butt Dynos " are meaningless but if you think you feel something, there may be something to it. There are many reports on-line, either on this forum or the internet on people's impressions of larger FMICs installed, including the CVF Performance FMIC, either on this forum or on-line. You just have to do a search and see what they say. Just remember, only pay attention to those reports where the only thing they changed was the FMIC and nothing else. Also remember that a " 3–4% bump in raw potential power " is meaningless in the overall power increase. Example: 300HP Advertised ( which is not the same as actual HP at the wheels ). Take 3-4% of that and you are looking at 3 - 4 HP total increase maybe. Now, add in a powertrain loss of 20-25% and what does that leave you with in overall gains? 0.75 - 1.0 HP total increase, at best

I was leaning towards this answer. It could be the valve, but it may also be a small, very slow leak that you will never find on your own. The only way to find the leak itself is to perform a dye test, where they inject a dye into the A/C system. The leak will show under ultraviolet light. Sometimes the seals dry out causing the leak over time, eventually resulting in total cooling failure ( No A/C ) due to complete loss of refrigerant. I had very similar symptoms on a couple of different brand cars over the years. Acted just as you initially described. It was a leak.

There are plenty of pictures of the installed CVF front mount intercooler ( FMIC ), and install instructions on-line. You just have to do a search. As far as performance gains, the purpose of the FMIC is not for a performance gain, not directly. The purpose of the FMIC is to keep the charge temp into the intake cooler, for a longer period of time. If you want performance gains, then there are multiple " bolt-on "pathways to get there. 1. Performance Tune 2. Larger Turbos 3. Increased Fuel Flow 4. Larger Exhaust Some of the above options require for them to be used together

A white silicone spray grease will work. I typically use an actual grease ( apply with your hand ) as it stays longer and you can work it in around the latch. If the door is actually closed, it doesn't always mean the latch is fully closed. The latch can be " stuck " so sometimes it fully latches and sometimes it does not. This is where the application of a good grease comes in. I would clean up all your door latches first, then properly re-grease them and see if this resolves your issue. Fully disabling the switch is not the way to fix your issue. Swapping out a new latch may resolve the issue BUT so would cleaning up and properly re-greasing the door latches. Another couple of possibilities: 1 ) Does your year Edge have a lot of sensors, ie; proximity sensors for cars getting to close, etc.? As in my 2020, I have a lot of sensors and these sensors run 24/7, even when the car is shut off. When the battery drains down to a certain level ( I don't know what that level is ), I get a funny message on my display, telling me to shut the engine off or drive the car. The car is obviously not running in the garage overnight. This was resolved by using a Smart Battery Tender to keep the battery charged when I am not driving the car. Once I did that, the problem never returned. I presume it's fairly cold in Canada, so this could be a likely culprit. 2 ) Another possibility is that you may have a short somewhere in the wiring. Picture this: I know someone who had bought a new car years back. He came out one winter morning and found all his windows were down in the car. He knows it wasn't his doing. This " process " repeated itself intermittently over time, so one winter night he sat in the shadows and watched his car to see who was messing with him. On this particular night, he watched as all his car windows suddenly went down on their own at 4 AM. As it turned out, he had a wiring short somewhere but the dealership / manufacturer refused to look for and fix it so he sold the car. I really think your issue is either dirty latches or option # 1 above.

First and foremost, as you didn't mention, Is the door ajar alarm actually as a result of you not fully closing the door? - It may look closed, but doesn't mean it actually is. First thing I would do is clean up the door latch and use some grease on that latch. You can spray it with a lubricant, like WD-40 but it doesn't last as long as a good grease will.

I have used Redline products for 20+ years and have never had an issue. Motul is another brand I use for the same reason. Both high quality This is what I used for my change-over Change PTU Gear Oil - Motul 75W90 ( 14 oz ) Change RDU Gear Oil - Redline 70W75W MT-LV ( 28 oz )

More or less, all wheels will leak some air over time. How much air are you leaking? 1lb a day? 10lbs a day? Need more information. Discount Tire may not have been the best place to go for tires but it's all dependent on the people who work there. Maybe they didn't do the best job on the install. Unknown. This is your only option, according to American Racing Wheels: https://www.americanracing.com/american-racing-vintage-torq-thrust-ii-1-pc If you are looking for something different in sizing, then you have to be more specific in what you are looking for. How did I determine this? By going to American Racing Wheels website and looking for what they offer for your year / model car in their 20" wheels because that is what you specifically asked about. However, if you go here: https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/edge/2012/#region-usdm - You will see that your wheel offset for your vehicle runs between 38mm to 42mm. - If you look at those American Racing wheels, you will see that American Racing states that those specific wheels have a 0 mm offset. If it were me, I would not get those American Racing wheels. There are many places on-line you can get wheels, in all shapes and sizes, that will fit your vehicle. Your wallet will be your only limitation. Just as an example, you can look here: https://www.elementwheels.com/wheels/ford/edge/2007-2014?find=2012-ford-edge-v13842&filters[wheel_size_d][0]=20&filters[bolt_pattern][0]=5x114.3%2F4.5&filters[custom_built][0]=No Use a website that allows you to choose specifics for your desires. When you call them for more info, if they do not offer pleasant an very good customer service, hang up and try somewhere else. I am pretty sure I used " Wheels for Less " years ago, but there website is no longer as sophisticated as " Element Wheels " is today.

If the door latch clicks open, can you raise the door by hand? If yes, then your rear hatch motor may have failed, or you have a short somewhere in the power line.

Typically there is a drain hose from the cowl down below the chassis. If you have one, then it's possibly clogged. If you are missing one, then that looks like your issue.

Just go buy the original part. Not worth trying to grab something from the local parts store. https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-nut_-w711889-s441.html There are tools you can buy to measure bolt pitch but it would probably take longer to get that tool than just get the OEM nut.

I could live with that as well. You may have a $100 deductible that goes with that but still acceptable. Could be that the fluid was never changed, hence a solid reason for the failure. The RDU fluid is only a 75W straight fluid so it's not the typical 75W90 or 75W140 found in earlier models. Plan to replace that RDU fluid every 20K miles so you never have a repeat of this issue

Extended Warranty? If the dealership tells you that your car is over 5 years old, and Ford does not warranty Ford cars that old, they are outright lying to you. There a number of reasons that the rear diff broke up. Here are only two (2): - Are you the original owner? - Did you ever have the rear diff fluid changed before?

Do you NEED an oil pan gasket? Not necessarily Can you use a quality silicon gasket sealer alone without an oil pan gasket? Yes. Doesn't look like Ford has an oil pan gasket for your vehicle. The turbo pipe is connected to the turbo. You just follow it to see where it goes.

First, do an internet search on your particular issue looking for " coolant intrusion " on your particular vehicle / engine and see what you find. That may give you the answer you need. Second, call Ford Corporate and see what they say AFTER you do your own search. Did the dealership clearly explain what they meant by " coolant intrusion " ? That could mean almost anything. Could be as simple as a leaking head gasket which does not require a long block replacement. Head gasket replacement could be $3000.

I know this is several months old but for those following this: Just because the dealership says you are on your own, that does not mean you are. Personally experience tells me otherwise. If you are within your warranty period, call Ford Corporate. Dealerships lie to the customer because they don't want to do the work. Carefully review your warranty documentation. You may get relief if you keep on Ford Corporate.