Samurai Edge

If it sounds like gears stripping, it could be something is simply off track and needs to be put back into place OR gears are stripping. They want to change you $1800 because to determine the problem, the glass roof will need to be removed. So, most of it is labor time @ $200+ / hour. There are videos on Youtube on how to do this yourself so if you feel capable, then go for it. If not, just leave it closed and never open it again. And I just realized you asked this exact same question less than a month ago and I gave you the same answer.

If the wheel is bent, which is causing the leak, then the rim can be straightened. A good tire shop can either do it or they know a professional who does it. Doing this, and keeping your current wheels, will save you more money than going to a whole new tire / wheel package in a smaller size. And, as was already stated, if you think those new wheels will stay looking new, they won't. Teen drivers, parking lots, curbs, etc. do not mix well.

When I need to get new tires, I always check the tire performance ratings on The Tire Rack. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=CSTAS https://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=W&VT=C These are just for the all weather or snow tires. Just make sure you read the User Reviews for the same type car. The other brands / types have no meaning because what works well on one model may not work the same on another model. I've have always been very satisfied by using these performance models in making tire decisions. Tire Rack does extensive testing to publish their ratings.

That kit will be good enough to get you to a tire shop but I would not take days to make up your mind where to go. IIRC, once that sealant is used, you may not be able to re-use that damaged tire. Has to do with the sealant all over the inside of the tire. Best option? Determine the size needed for a spare tire and buy one with a wheel that fits your car. And remember, spare tires are designed for temporary use, no more than about 50 miles before the tire degrades. I know people have driven a lot longer than that on a spare tire, but you are taking a chance of perhaps getting into a bad accident because when things go wrong, they go wrong at the wrong at the wrong time in the wrong place. Murphy's Law of the Universe

That's good info to know. Both Grappone Ford & Portsmouth Ford are about 50 minutes to an hour away for me. Not much different from Worst Ford. I went to AutoFair Ford in Haverhill for help and after a month I have heard nothing from them. Even though they have claimed that they will definitely help me out, they claim it's complicated but how complicated can it really be? Just got off the phone with Ford Corporate and, no surprise here, there is no warranty claim submitted for warranty service by AutoFair Ford of Haverhill. Ford Corporate also told me it only takes ~ 5 minutes to submit a claim. I'll be contacting AutoFair Ford on this issue, and then most likely be calling Grappone / Portsmouth Ford for help. Hopefully, they will service Ford customers as dealerships should do. FX3 - Greatly appreciate your input !!!

To get your answer, a simple internet search will answer your question. However, to repair the sunshade, you are going to have to remove the glass panel. Are you up to the task?

First question that pops to mind: Are you cleaning your rubber moulding with anything? Any kind of chemicals, just water, windex, etc.? Anything at all? Something you are using may be degrading the moulding.

I suspect the tech just made a huge mess filling the transmission and spilled a lot of excess transmission fluid everywhere. Shame on them. As stated by 1004ron above, " Best check the owner's manual for the transmission fluid change interval. In extreme operating conditions such as towing etc. the recommended transmission fluid change interval is 30K miles, and for normal use 150K miles. " The interval you have for transmission fluid changes depends on how you filled out your Maintenance Plan. If you marked " Extreme Operating ", then 30K mile intervals is what your plan states, and therefore, per your Maintenance Plan, the dealership should be performing the change every 30K. Personally, if you read the definition of " Extreme Conditions " in the plan, it pretty much defines what every day driving is. As long as it is covered in your plan at 30K miles, then you are all set. No worries.

I have never used AMSOil products so I can't say. The PTU calls for Motorcraft XY75W85QL ( Synthetic ), which is ridiculously expensive. As an option, you can use either one of these. I use the Motul. Red Line 50104 75W85 GL-5 Hypoid Limited Slip ( Full Synthetic ) Motul Gear 300 75w90 105777 ( Full Synthetic )

Service Managers and Service Advisors say all sorts of things when they have no idea what they are talking about. They will tell you that conventional oil and full synthetic oil are the same and you should change your oil at 3K miles. They will also tell you the PTU never needs a fluid change. Do your own research. Change out the PTU and RDU fluids at 20K miles. Use proper rated fluids, which do not have to be Motorcraft. There are other brands that are just as good but less expensive. Redline and Motul are typically what I use

I agree. Get the Bilstein B6s and do it yourself.

Even though this is 5 years old, but for Ashley's sake, yes it could be normal. Mine is also ever so slightly black but not like the picture. The muffler has two ( 2 ) small weep holes, one at either side of the muffler.

Ford has my account. I legally have an extended warranty in place and active. I reviewed Best ( Worst ) Ford on Yelp and there are a surprisingly large number of serious complaints against this dealership. I got a really good deal when I originally bought the car, the best in my area. Apparently, now all they are concerned with is taking people's money and screwing them out of as much of it as they can. It became apparent during this whole issue that they don't want to put forward the effort to submit a claim. They get their money either way, but they don't have to do the paperwork AND they can get more money by charging the customer for things they did wrong ( like in my case, repairing a cable at an excessively high cost instead of simply replacing the cable, as they should have done in the first place, per Ford Corporate ) and claiming Ford Motor Company would not pay the claim. My friend always refers to dealerships as " Stealerships ". Obviously, this dealership clearly falls into the category of " Stealerships ".

This is another vote for Best Ford, Nashua, N.H. being renamed to " WORST Ford ". These people are unprofessional and unethical. Purchased vehicle from this dealership in 2020, along with an 8 year extended warranty. Had a warranty issue occur a couple of months ago and they flat out refused to submit a warranty claim. They told me lie after lie as to the reasoning why Ford Corporate would not accept a warranty claim on my car. Every time I pushed back that their reasoning was ridiculous, they gave me another lie. How do I know they lied? I called Ford Corporate and confirmed that everything that the Service Advisors, Assistant Service Manager, Service Manager and the General Manager told me was lie. The last lie was when the Best Ford General Manager told me was that they did submit a warranty claim. I followed up with Ford Corporate and they told me no such claim was ever submitted. To top this all off, instead of replacing the part, they decided to repair the part because " that is what we do ". Due to the repair, they charged me around 12 times what the replacement would have cost. Ford Corporate wanted to know why they refused to file the claim, why they didn't just replace the part, and that my issue would have been covered IF a warranty claim was submitted. Per Ford Corporate, I am seeking help from another dealership.

I don't think they are " one-time use " either but Ford is being cautious. It's like saying, on older cars, every time you change the oil you have to change the oil drain plug gasket. Not a true statement. It's very tight in there to remove that PTU cover plate without moving anything else. I chose to buy a MityVac unit specifically for vacuuming out the gear fluid. Sucked it almost dry. I used another MityVac unit, so I didn't have to clean them in-between same-time uses for the PTU, to pump the new gear oil in. Took the correct amount of fluid as specified in the manuals. ( That's why I said it sucked it dry ) And, of course, a lot less messier.

Rats / Mice are known for eating through the wiring insulation. Very common if the insulation is soy-based, a method of going " green " by replacing an oil-based product with a natural-based product.

Without a picture, and without looking myself, are you referring to the plastic plugs / buttons manufactures typically use to hold panels in place? I believe you are. Couple of places you can get them: 1. Ford dealer 2. Local hardware, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. My local hardware stores have them. Just bring the old one with you so you can match the right size / style to the on you need. 3. Amazon has a number of kits with different types of these plugs / buttons you can buy for relatively little money, like $13 for 190 pieces

Update: I changed my RDU & PTU fluids recently. I was surprised to find the RDU actually had a drain plug. Not all cars do. While I filled it up simply as boostededge said above, I pumped it in using a pressurized device and it actually took the full amount as specified in the manual. As for the PTU, I sucked the old fluid out using a vacuum device and pumped fluid in using the same pressurized device I used for the RDU, and again, it took the full amount as specified in the manual. As far as whether or not the PTU has a cooler, I'm wondering if a PTU cooler is installed where original vehicle destination is a dealership in the hotter climates of the country. IE; NorthEast US has colder climates than Arizona so I would expect, maybe, that would be why Arizona would get a PTU cooler and the NorthEast does not. (?)

A little more clarity needed. Are you saying you put your hands on the tire and then rotate the tire forward and backwards? When doing this you get the clicking sound? What happened to the clunking sound? These are completely different noises. As far as the clicking sound, check the cv joints / boots and check your brakes. The brake pads may be loose in the calipers. As far as the clunking sound, this sounds more like something transmission related. Check your driveshaft, universal joints, mounting points and check your torque mount.

My 2020 Edge ST came stock with 245 /50 R20 Hankook Ventus S1 Noble2 tires. Definately not a performance tire. Comfortable ride. Must be why I replaced them with performance summer & winter tires. With only 3000 miles on the Hankooks, I just need to find a local buyer

When was the last time the car had a proper alignment and the steering and suspension were checked for damage?

You are asking the same question over and over again. As I stated in the “ Will it Fit “ post, there is a tire calculator available on-line that can answer your question on what can and can’t not fit. Just search for tire calculator. I do not remember the link off hand

Using the correct tire calculator, the system will tell you what will and what won’t fit. You will need to do some measuring related to wheel depth, tire clearance, etc. to get a baseline for fitment. The calculator system has all the simple directions to complete the calculations. Once you establish the baseline, you can play with the numbers and get your answer. You can get new wheel size and offset as well as tire size. Whatever tire size you choose, keep the overall tire diameter the same, or as close as possible to, the OEM tire size so you don’t negatively affect your speedometer or AWD system

Easiest thing to do is get the car up on ramps, or a lift if you can, and engine off, in park, put your hands on the driveshaft(s) and rotate them by hand. They should move slightly but not a lot. Especially pay attention to the areas around the u-joints, connections to the rear diff and transmission. If it feels fairly tight, then there may be no issue at all. Also check any mounting points along the driveshaft(s) to the body as a bolt may be loose causing the noise you are hearing.

Redline has a full synthetic 75W85 gear oil. Motul has a full synthetic 75W90 gear oil. Either would be fine for an alternative to the PTU. Redline has a MT-LV 70W/75W gear oil that would be an alternative to the Motorcraft 75W. That is per Redline Tech Services for the RDU for the Edge ST. Motul has a ATF VI transmission fluid for the Edge ST. However, You can get the Motorcraft product for less on Amazon than the Motul. I only use top brand name products, but that's me