Samurai Edge

Yes, it typically will cost you more money but when you buy parts, make sure you are buying the real McCoy and not some cheap knock-off. Scammers selling cheap look-alike knock-offs are everywhere. Companies, like Amazon for one, may buy from their Buyer but that doesn't mean what they bought was real. Too many times a company's Buyer's instructions are to get the best price. Best price on what is the real question. Scammers are getting better at marking products to look just like the real thing.

So, each time you filled up with Eco88 fuel, you get this message. What does that tell you? Hmmm. . . Do not buy Eco88 fuel. Your system is telling you not to.

Most likely a warning concerning traffic ahead of you. Could have been something about stalled traffic or a crash site, etc. I have gotten one or two of those in the past but never saw anything further up the road.

I have used a slide hammer in the past to remove wheel bearings on my Subaru in the past. It worked out pretty well. I have something very similar to the one above. BTW: I like the TRQ videos. They are very well done NOTE: Just something to be aware of. One whack will not be enough to get this off. It's going to take several hard whacks at least.

I found several possibilities by typing in the following: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Rear+CV+Axle+replacement+Ford+Edge+AWD&t=osx&ia=web Pick your poison.

Yes, I do. I also remember you could not tell how low the air in your tire really was by looking at it. Sometimes it looked that way based on how the car was parked. But, almost nothing is free anymore, including air at the station or the air we breathe.

Bad coil pack or a bad coil pack connection. If the connector is not properly secured, it will definitely cause this issue. These are also very pertinent questions. - Were the plugs purchased from an actual Ford dealer or an otherwise known trusted source? Sometimes you can get symptoms and not get a code because the symptom is so brief, it does not get identified by the code reader BUT use the wrong type or cheap code reader will be of no help

Yes, I know, this thread is 5 years old but I thought I would make an update for anyone considering doing a DIY CVF Performance Intercooler upgrade on their Edge. This thread seemed to be the most appropriate place. Better if you have help than if you do it alone like I did. Recently installed the CVF Performance intercooler on my 2020 Edge ST. Despite what has been said by person or persons not to be named, this intercooler IS NOT a direct bolt in. Modifications need to be made. First, you have to remove the front bumper and I found this video pretty good on how to do it: There are a couple of things you should know about this video: 1. First thing before you attempt this is to remove the front wheels and tires. This will give you so much extra room to work with and reduce your frustration level. Like always, I find out things the hard way. 🤔 2. At ~ 2:35 in the video, he starts talking about the " three little screws ". The best way to get at these " three little screws " once you pull the inner fender liner back, is to remove the headlight. You can reach them from the top with much more room to work a wrench. The headlight is only two (2) screws and an electrical connector. Once you have the bumper off, you can start removing the intercooler. I found this video pretty good: This is the Ford Fusion but it directly applies. I have found that videos on the Ford Fusion, when you can't find any on the Ford Edge, will usually be quite helpful. Once the intercooler is out and it's time to install the new CVF Performance Intercooler, here are a couple of things you should know: 1. This intercooler IS NOT a direct fit 2. The inlet and outlet of the CVF Performance Intercooler are too long. When installing the intercooler, it was impossible to raise the intercooler to insert the mounting bolts into the frame. 3. You have two ( 2 ) options to remedy the situation A. You can cut 1/2" off the top of the intercooler inlet and outlet pipes OR B. You can cut 1/2" off the bottom of the OEM Hot and Cold Charge pipes. C. I chose to make the cut off the OEM Hot and Cold Charge pipes because those connection points are ribbed allowing a strong connection with the rubber hose connectors from the Hot and Cold Charge pipes to the corresponding intercooler inlet and outlet pipes. The OEM Hot and Cold Side Charge pipes are a type of polymer or glass-infused nylon but they are also lined at the end with an inner ring of metal, most likely to eliminate crushing of the pipe itself upon tightening. 4. Removal of the OEM Hot Side Charge pipe was simple. I cut 1/2" off the end using a 3" cut-off saw and re-installed. 5. Removal of the OEM Cold Side Charge pipe is a PITA, so I cut 1/2" off the end by hand, using a hacksaw blade, by holding the blade in my bare hand. This took a little while but was not too bad. When raising the intercooler into place, using a floor jack helps but you could block it into place like I did. Once the intercooler is fully installed, time to install the lower radiator support. 1. To be able to install the lower radiator support, you are first going to have to trim off most of the front lip, essentially making a notch long enough to clear the CVF Performance Intercooler. 2. The support is metal so you will need a metal cutting blade. Again, I used my 3" cut-off saw. Clean, prime and paint the affected area. Now you will need that floor jack again to raise the lower radiator support, radiator and intercooler into place and secure. Reverse the Front Bumper Removal process and you are done. I did not have to modify the radiator louvers. They fit fine as they were intended. The lower plastic skid plate, if you want to keep it, will need to be cut to allow the bottom of the CVF Performance Intercooler to stick through. It interferes just enough that the skid plate can not be bolted back up without a large enough hole to accommodate the intercooler. Just about any video I could find on installing a CVF Performance Intercooler on a Ford product was for the Explorer, Bronco, Mustang, F-150 and the Fusion. - The Explorer, Bronco, Mustang and F-150 are a completely different set-up than the Edge. The only video I could find on explicitly installing the CVF Performance Intercooler on a Ford Edge was on the CVF website itself. That video is a waste of time to watch. Don't expect any help from CV Fabrications when you run into an issue. I reached out to them " We are always here to help " but they never responded. They didn't answer their phone, didn't respond to live chat nor e-mail.

The engine cover was just to make it look pretty. To me it was totally useless so I took mine off. Now it just sits on a shelf.

If the engine block was replaced, then obviously everything had to be disconnected and reconnected back again. I presume you looked up the P1016 code and found this: Search Assistant The P1016 code indicates a "Wastegate Control Pressure Higher Than Expected," which typically relates to issues with the turbocharger wastegate solenoid or associated hoses. Common fixes include checking for vacuum leaks, replacing the wastegate solenoid, or inspecting the turbocharger system for restrictions. fordedgeforum.com diag.net As with many codes, there is no one reason / answer to consider to get a resolve. I also looked just now and found this as well. There are probably other results, depending on how hard one looks: Key Takeaways The P1016 code indicates a fault in the reductant control module sensor serial communication circuit, triggering a high voltage level detection. Possible causes include a faulty Reductant Quality Sensor, wiring issues, or a malfunctioning Reductant Control Module. Symptoms of the P1016 code include the Engine Light ON and reduced engine performance, potentially leading to difficulty starting the vehicle. To fix the code, inspect the related wiring harness and connectors, repair or replace damaged parts, and clear the code to see if it returns. Diagnosing the P1016 code requires a thorough understanding of the reductant control module sensor’s serial communication circuit and sensor testing. https://carscounsel.com/p1016-code/

At the time of my purchase, the standard wheel size for an ST was 20" wheels, which are 8" wide. The same goes for the Edge Sport. The optional brake upgrade included the 21" wheels. I also found this:

I can't compare a 2020 ST to a 2024 ST, with or without an upgraded brake package, not without the actual delivery paperwork that comes on the car window at time of delivery to the customer. I have my original paperwork which does not say that it has the upgraded brake package. However, I carefully looked at what the 2020 ST upgraded brake package included. - Larger Wheels and Tires - 21" vs 20" but still the same alleged Hankook performance tires - which are not performance tires at all, at least in my book - Painted Red Calipers - same exact calipers as on the ST non-brake upgrade - Alleged different front brake rotors - Checking p/ns for both on the 2020 ST showed the same p/n - Alleged different front brake pads - Checking p/ns for both on the 2020 ST showed the same p/n And, yes, I did drive a 2020 ST with the upgraded brake package. I'm saying that it was the upgraded brake package because it had the red calipers. Aside from the fact that that this was a salesman's car, and that it stank from cigarette smoke so thick you could probably cut it with a knife, there was no difference in handling or braking between that car and my car at time of purchase. No mention on anything else. The selling dealer also did not specify anything else either, but I would not expect most salesman would know the difference. The wheel and tire package I purchased post-sale is a better package, for less money, than that offered at the time of my purchase. As we both know, vehicle manufacturers make changes to vehicle options all the time. Two back-to-back years could easily have differences between the two years on the exact same listed item. I can only speak to my car and I made that clear earlier.

I would suggest checking all your belts to see if of the are loose / worn and over-spinning when you pass / hard accelerate. Ask me how I know.

Where is the burnt smell coming from? Is this from / through the A/C vents?

When " something " is changed / repaired, and then almost immediately a problem appears, in many cases the source of the problem is directly related to that repair. Who did the repair and have you spoken to them about this issue? I have had a similar issue years ago on a Ford LTD. It all of a sudden started acting up like you mentioned. Thankfully I didn't just start throwing parts at it. Ultimately, what the problem turned out to be was the fuel filter. This car had an external fuel filter so it was easy to check. The fuel filter was loaded down with particles from the fuel tanks from the gas stations. Once the fuel filter was changed, never had the problem again AND I was more careful of the gas stations I frequented. Just something to consider .

In my experience, Dealerships farm out their work to a contract shop, and not just for body work & paint. Obviously they work out some type of deal, where the dealership gets some type of kickback / payment above the actual cost of the work done by the contracted shop. Dealerships are not watching, so there is no way to know exactly the level of competency of the work performed. As I mentioned above, if you are up to it to save yourself some money on the work, and you don't need it to be of the highest quality, then go for it BUT it will not be as good as a professional shop who knows their business. Body work is literally a lot of work. Prepping, priming, metal work, sanding, sanding, sanding, painting, buffing, etc., and don't forget how are you going to paint it? Spray paint from the local car parts shop? I'm not discouraging you, just hoping to give you a good idea of what is involved.

My ST came with the panoramic sunroof, package 401A. No mention of the performance brake package in my documentation nor any painted rotors. I find my ST braking to be very good. It seems that the 2024 STBEAST Edge's increased braking, from the brake performance package, is most likely due to the sticky Pirelli tires that came with it, more than anything else. My alleged performance Hankook tires that originally came with the car were " eh " in the performance realm. I upgraded my tires to something much better, with wheels I preferred, for less money than the performance brake package offered at the time of sale in 2020. When we compare brake packages, or any other packages, we have to be comparing apples top apples, as they say.

Well, just remember - if there was already a repair prior, until you get into it grinding the bondo , you have no idea what is under the paint. Could be a major dent / gash. If you don't give a crap how the car looks when you are done, go for it. I've seen people do the on their own before who had no idea what to do and it came out looking like crap. I know you don't want to spend the extra $800+ but it is worth having a professional perform this repair. In order to pay for the extra work, start taking it out of your wife's weekly allowance!

I have never encountered this buzzing but it's sounding like the issue is an exhaust drone

Where exactly do you think the noise is coming from? Transmission, Rear Diff, Engine? So many possibilities

There is a big difference between the 2020 Edge ST and the 2024 Edge ST then. - 21 inch wheels - Hankook upgraded performance tires - Painted calipers These three items alone to me were not worth the money. The package was $3000. I spent less than that and got much better tires and wheels I actually liked. I could care less for the red painted brake calipers. My car is blue. If the calipers were yellow, then that would be nice but not worth the money. Car came with vented front and rear rotors. " Performance Enhanced Front Rotors "? Personally I find that debatable and when I looked up the p/ns for each I only found the same p/n. Sometimes comparing years between car models is like the phrase " How dumb you are all depends on the state you are standing in at the time ". Different years = different packages

The ST performance brake package is really nothing. The only real differences are that you get painted calipers, allegedly better brake pads and larger wheels / tires. That's it. Nothing else. No larger radiator fan, no larger swaybar. Nada. As you mentioned, better to spend the money on wheels / tires you want and not what Ford provides. The Hankook tires are really not performance tires. If you ever find stainless steel brake lines for the Ford Edge ST, let us know. I tried to find them and no one offers them specifically for the Ford Edge ST. The Edge is dead since it is no longer produced so no one really is going to make performance parts for it. Not financially worth it. You are not going to find a big brake package for it either. In a post somewhere else on this forum, someone mentioned that Rotora had a kit. Just for yuks I looked for it but couldn't find it availabile on their website.

All good that you sorted out your brake issue. However, you don't get " warped rotors " from " high speed stopping ". Warped rotors in almost all cases are a myth. What happens is if you ride your brakes a lot or you do a lot of hard stoping but ride the brakes more than needed, you deposit brake pad dust onto the rotors. That brake dust builds up, causing uneven spots on the rotor, resulting in " warped rotors ". There is an easy fix for this, which, ironically, involves high speed stopping to remove those brake deposits. You just have to do it the right way

You beat me to it. Not sure about the steel difference between different brand rotors BUT as far as " warped rotors " are concerned, the pad deposits are the most likely culprit. Turning rotors usually does not remove that issue. Brake pad deposits are extremely hard. It's only a rare occurrence where the rotor has actually warped, and that is due to poor manufacturing of the rotor. Bad batches of " something " always appear because they slip through QC, presuming that facility actually has QC in the first place. If I was to change anything about my Ford Edge braking system, it would be two ( 2 ) things: 1. Go from a plain rotor to a properly slotted rotor. Personally I have found that slotted rotors help dispel water between the pads and rotors very quickly, like on rainy days or when you just get out of the car wash 2. Stainless Steel brake lines. The difference is night and day between SS lines and the overly flexible rubber lines installed as OEM

22CarbGreyElite I completely agree with your reasoning on the upgrade for your GTO. I did something similar on my 2002 Subaru WRX since the braking was weak, even in regular day-to-day driving. Too many people driving like jacka**es cutting you off at the last second, etc., required a brake upgrade. The right rotors, pads, calipers, etc. can make a huge improvement. Did it all DIY which helps give you a better understanding of what's going on. The issue with the Edge is that the braking, as it comes from the factory, is quite good. I can't see the reason for a big upgrade unless one is racing the vehicle. That's why I asked the OP " Why? " but he never responded. The only big upgrade kit I found, Rotara, was over $4K. That's pricey for something one would not need unless racing or " just because ".