Samurai Edge
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Everything posted by Samurai Edge
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If you look up changing the PTU fluid by removing the PTU cooler, it looks like a royal PITA. The same would go for removing the plate where the PTU cooler would go. That's why I opted for going the vacuum route. It was simply, straight forward and very little mess. However, you choose your own method. Have fun.
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First issue with my Edge, thank God for Powertrain warranty
Samurai Edge replied to 22CarbGrayElite's topic in 2.0L EcoBoost
. . . and then you decided to buy the 2026 F150? 🤔 -
2019 Edge ST (8F57) transmission fluid change
Samurai Edge replied to boostededge's topic in Edge ST
I typically drain fluids while they are very warm. A 10 minute drive does the trick. -
I presume this is a used vehicle and not a brand new vehicle? Haven't had it done but true. Typically all the wiring is already done. When you add " options ", many times there are done at the point of entry. So, if you live in Cali, your new car goes to a Distribution Center. They can add " options " before it leaves the Center. If they can do it there, then it can be done somewhere else.
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So, I'm not sure where your rant was going. BTW, Ford does not sell Corvettes
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Well, at least you have a drain plug so that helps. It's the fill plug that will get you now. It's a tight spot so you will need a vacuum pump to get the fluid in there. Just a note: If you do a good enough search, you will find a YT video where someone shows how they installed their own PTU drain plug.
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So, that's interesting. Depending on the specific wording you use on your search, some results say The 2020 Ford Edge did not have a drain plug in the PTU, and other results say the PTU drain plugs were installed in so=me vehicles starting in 2015. Either way, as you stated, " Specifically - not ONE of these products should have ever rolled off the assembly line without a drain and fill plug on a gear box. " I whole-heartedly agree with. If anyone expects a manufacturer to listen to them about a product improvement, they will hit a brick wall. No one can even suggest their designers screwed up.
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That's interesting but I don't think that is an OEM PTU. I think that is a replacement PTU that has had the drain plug installed. I have found them listed by doing a search. Once you check your PTU, it will be interesting to see if you have a drain plug on yours.
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The coat hanger is a good idea
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Please provide a link to whatever video you watched. The 2020 Ford Edge does not have a drain plug. I presume you have not looked at your PTU yet Did you buy this car used? If so, the PTU may have been replaced and the replacement may have a drain plug.
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Yes, 12.8 ounces. No idea which video you watched. I went ahead and purchased two (2) different vacuum pumps, one for sucking out dirty fluids and one for pumping in clean fluids. Very easy and the process was fairly quick. I moved around that hose a little into the corners, and I sucked out just about every ounce. I say that because when I pumped the new fluid back in, it took 14 ounces and barely dripped out the fill hole.
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PTU = Power Transfer Unit It is a gear box connecting the engine to the transmission. The engine sits sideways / horizontally in the engine bay, as opposed to longitudinally as standard in a lot of cars. In order to get the power from the engine to the transmission, you essentially have to turn the gearing back to a longintudinal configuration, allowing the power from the engine to reach the transmission. The PTU sits closely nestled between the engine, the transmission and the exhaust. That is a very hot and hostile environment to live in. The gear oil in the PTU bakes surrounded by so much heat. As I mentioned, the manual states 30K miles between gear oil changes for the PTU. Not a good idea if yo want to save your PTU from severe damage / replacement. You could spend $2500 or more to have a dealer replace that PTU.
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Agreed. Too many posts about the discovery of the PTU gone bad and needing replacement and a hefty price tag to go with it. Ford states 30K miles between PTU gear oil changes. Changed mine @ 20K miles and the fluid was already black & disgusting.
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I think you are missing something here in this explanation. You have to remember that we are talking about the RDU gear oil and NOT the Viscous Coupler oil. These are two (2) different things, two (2) separate units that work independently of each other but, in unison, complete the transfer of power to the rear wheels. Every manufacturer states only use their brand fluid ( you pick which type of fluid ) in their vehicles. Ford is no different. That does not mean you HAVE to and it does not mean that using an appropriate alternate fluid is bad for the vehicle nor will it void warranty. You just have to meet the minimum spec of the original manufacturer specs but exceeding them is even better. Remember that the RDU itself is just gears and bearings. There are no clutches involved. The clutches are in the Viscous Coupler and you can not change that fluid as it is a sealed unit. In my opinion, after doing my own searches for alternates, and speaking directly to a Redline Tech concerning the differences between what is stated by Ford Manufacturing and what Redline states on their website for the Redline MT-LV 70W/75W gear oil, I am convinced one is equally compatible with the other. That's my opinion and Redline's opinion. If in doubt about a product, I go directly to the source and don't rely simply what I read on a label or a website. You don't have to take my advice. You, and anyone else that does not agree, or has doubts, should just use whatever Ford recommends.
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It is literally this simple: how to perform a software update on a 2020 Ford Edge If it still says you are up-to-date after following the procedure as stated, then it is. I just didn't trust what the system was telling me and I was right. It may be different for you.
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If it was me, and it told me it was up to date, but I was getting the sound from what I thought was the RDU, and my research shows TSBs for the issue, and the dealership refuses to perform the TSB updates, and actually doesn't care if I had needed TSBs updated or not, I would do what I did, which was perform a proper update. But, that's me. Knowing I have some type of issue, and knowing that to ensure I had all the proper software updates I should do an update, I would do the update. I wouldn't care if the system told me the system was up to date.
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I had no idea either. I thought it had to be done by the dealership. I did this a year ago but, IIRC, I tried it a couple of times because it looked like it was doing nothing, just spinning its wheel. Eventually I just let it ride for a while before it started working. Remember that how long it takes is partially determined by your WiFi connection and network traffic. I believe I finally did an internet search to find the correct way to do the update install and that is how I got it to work.
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I don't disagree with you but that doesn't mean they are the only game in town. I do use Motorcraft oils because 1.) As you said above and 2.) Many times they are equal or lower in price than a competitor, ie; Redline or Motul. However, the RDU Disconnect fluid is stupidly overpriced so I went looking for an alternative. When I called Redline's Tech Service line, they stated that their MT-LV 70W/75W ( Full Synthetic ) meets that specification of the Motorcraft Disconnect Rear Drive Unit Fluid XY-75W-QL. I don't just swap out one for another without researching alternatives. As far as I could find, only Redline clearly stated that their MT-LV 70W/75W ( Full Synthetic ) meets that specification of the Motorcraft Disconnect Rear Drive Unit Fluid XY-75W-QL. No one else did. I'll spend 1/2 the price on a known product line that I have been using for years.
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The software update is not a recall. It is a TSB ( Technical Service Bulletin ). You do not get notices on TSBs. The dealership does not normally check for TSBs unless, maybe, a symptom you have coincides with the issue / symptom you are currently having. My dealership at the time fought with me and refused to perform the TSBs. In other words, you are basically on your own to check for TSBs, determine if you are affected by any one or more TSBs, and then get them resolved. Software updates are easy. You can do them from your display. You do not have to leave your car turned on. As long as you have Wi-Fi available, once initiated the update will run on its own. Allegedly these software updates are supposed to update themselves automatically, but apparently they don't. I found a number of recurring TSBs that needed to be attended to. There were two (2) that kept repeating themselves over and over, with different TSB numbers. Go Figure. Those two (2) TSBs were 1. A Display Update and 2. An update to resolve the RDU clunking. Once installed, they worked perfectly. The updates actually took over 8 hours to complete while the car sat overnight.
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Good repeat of the manufacturer's position. It really means nothing. As long as someone uses an oil, gear oil, etc., that, at a minimum, meets the standards of the specified oil, gear oil, etc., then said oil performs the same, at a minimum, of the specified oil. Redline MT-LV 70W/75W ( Full Synthetic ) meets that specification. https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-lv-70w75w
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I would think there should not be any leaking at all from the gas tank, but that's me as it doesn't make any sense. It should be a closed system with the only openings being the gas cap and the injectors. Dropping the tank in your driveway will be a PITA. I did a little poking around and found this: https://www.facebook.com/groups/fordedgeforum/posts/2803331423198293/ I am not a Facebook User but it looks like it may contain the info you may need. An AI response produced this:
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The Owner's Manual? That's a funny place to look. 😉 That particular option is ridiculously / outrageously expensive. This is what I use : Redline MT-LV 70W/75W ( Full Synthetic )
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It wouldn't be from the drain plug since that's in a different area of the RDU. If you are not seeing any spots on the floor, I wouldn't be too concerned right now. I would just keep an eye out for any leaks in the future. Get that software upgrade done and see if that makes the problem go away.
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Honestly, that could be almost anything. Car undersides pick up all kinds of dirt & grease from the roadway all the time. Do you park the car in the same place, the same way everytime? Are there any wet spots on the pavement directly under where the RDU sits? What happens when you place your finger on that area shown in the picture? All I'm saying is don't jump to conclusions just because you watched that video.
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Did you have the software update that resolves issues with the rear diff making rumble noises? I had some of that on left & right turns, randomly, and that solved that issue. Can you see where the leak is coming from? - Is it from the connection to the rear diff? - Is it coming from on top of the rear diff? There is typically a breather hole on top of the rear diff to allow for expansion of air in the rear diff as the oil heats up and expands. Remember the rear diff is not completely full. - Did you drive through something that makes it look like the rear diff is leaking? The above procedure does work on a 2020 but I suggest you make sure where the leak is actually coming from before you tear into this project.
