Samurai Edge

I'm fairly certain that Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer is the product I used years ago. I would not use it now as the product became ineffective. I've never used POR-15 nor Fluid Film. Everything I have read about the two products has shown that: 1. Fluid Film works, but washes off and needs to be re-done once a year, at a minimum. All depends on your operating environment. 2. POR-15 works very well, but as stated, it's messy and, IIRC, professional equipment is needed to apply properly. You don't just spray it on.

Where are you getting the 162 ft/lb number from? Your User Manual? Mine originally stated 150 ft/lbs which I can install & remove by hand, BUT it seems way too high. What I ultimately found out is that the 150 ft/lb value was for trucks, not cars. I now torque to 100 ft/lbs. Haven't had a wheel come off yet.

Why not just re-paint it gloss black?

Years ago, back in the 80s, I used a product ( name forgotten ), that made that same claim and actually worked. Within the last 10 years somewhere, no longer, I used the same product again and it did nothing. The company obviously changed the formula, as is so common anymore, to save money. The product was definitely not " Fluid Film ". If " Fluid Film " really works, that would be great.

Doesn't matter which end he sprays in. If you see rust, then you have rust, plain and simple. You will not know how much rust you have in that door unless you take the door apart. Covering the rust with any type of lubricant / sealer / anti-rust compound does not make the rust go away. It masks it. The only real way to eliminate the rust is to cut it out and you will have to take a good section of the rusted area and the surrounding non-rusted area out to ensure you get it all, or as much as possible. Rust is a cancer. What you don't see is what can kill your car.

The only problem with the video above is that you are now spraying over the rust that is already there. The best time to do that is when you first buy your brand new car.

Have you tried this: https://itstillruns.com/disable-abs-brakes-7762579.html

Boost PSI can be set with a tune I don't know why you want to shut off / completely remove the grill shutters. There are there to help your engine warm up. More critical in Minn - E - Sota than in Arizona. If you are thinking of installing a larger front intercooler, you can trim the shutters so it will fit. Directions can be found elsewhere in these forums and on Youtube

Other than the P0403 code staying on, is there anything else going on with the car? I have had a P0403 code pop up before, and that damn code refers to so many different things it's crazy. Have you checked the O2 sensors? Changing mine is what resolved the P0403 code issue. As was mentioned earlier, there are counterfeit products everywhere and you could be a victim.

I've seen lots of write-ups / videos of people using plasti-dip for all kinds of things, including painting the whole car with it for a cheap color change you can peel off when you don't want it anymore. I've also seen many, many complaints that the plastic-dip peels off in a short time frame and then what ever you used it for, looks like s****. The word is " Use With Caution " and don't have high expectations

Given today's complex cars and sensors, a failing 12V battery can cause all sorts of issues. The issues can be really hard to track down, and the failing battery makes no sense that it is the actual issue. Sensors are active 24 / 7 / 365 whether the car is turned on or not, causing a battery drain if you don't drive the car often enough. I use a smart " Battery Tender " that monitors the charging so when the battery is fully charged, it stops charging and goes into maintenance mode so you do not have to unplug the unit to prevent overcharging or battery damage.

The only issue with extended warranties is whether or not your dealership will actually honor them. Any Ford Dealership is supposed to honor the Ford Extended warranty, presuming you purchased it from Ford. There are other 3rd party companies that also offer extended warranties. My purchasing dealer did not honor the Ford Extended warranty and flat out lied to get out of honoring them. It's only some on-line paperwork required by the dealer to submit the claim. Just make sure you find a good dealership to work with when it comes to the extended warranty. I have a different dealership now and they honored a warranty claim, although I had to keep pushing them to complete it. Other than that, I am very happy with my purchase. As far as the transmission / PTU horror stories of failure, etc., best way to avoid those are proper routine maintenance. Even though the fluid replacement rate for those items are ~ 30K miles, I would change the PTU & RDF fluids at 20K miles. That's when I did my own and the PTU fluid was disgustingly bad.

Obviously, you have issue sin your transmission, just by your statement. Did you know what you were buying into? When you buy a car at auction, who knows what you are really getting. Did you actually look up those codes: Code P0715 The P0715 code indicates a malfunction in the Input/Turbine Speed Sensor circuit, which can lead to issues like abnormal transmission operation and decreased fuel economy. It is important to diagnose the underlying cause, which may include a faulty sensor, wiring issues, or problems with the torque converter. Code P0740 The P0740 code indicates a "Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction," which can cause shifting issues, stalling, or reduced fuel economy. It's often due to low or contaminated transmission fluid, a faulty solenoid, or wiring problems. Find yourself a good transmission tech. This looks expensive

That depends. Is your car overheating? No, then save your money. Today's engines are better designed than they were in your Pappy's days. They are designed to work with specific parameters for optimum performance , with engine temps being just one of them. The FMIC will lower the intake charge into the engine, as compared to the OEM FMIC. Given all the questions you have been asking recently on engine upgrades, I don't think you have thought this whole thing through very clearly. FIRST THING: You should come up with a clear goal of what you want, and set a budget. Before you go hog wild buying parts, make your wish list and figure out how many thousands of dollars you are looking at putting into this project. Spending more money than you need to is money out the window. Greater power is not necessarily equal to the amount of money you spend.

Is this a daily car or are you planning to race it? You will not find all that much improvement, however there are multiple ways to make a wheel lighter, just to name two (2): 1. Use a smaller wheel with a smaller tire 2. Lighter, less material in the wheel to reduce weight. Unless you are willing to spend some serious cash, buying lighter wheels may also result in wheel damage from pot holes, curbs, etc. that your OEM wheels would easily survive

It's your money so spend it any way you wish, however . . . The BOV will gain you that whoosh noise you want, but that's all. If you are looking for 400 / 420, then an Unleashed Tune will get you there. Average numbers are gains of 60 HP / 70 TQ. I have no idea what the Livernois tune got you as you have not said. An FMIC is a good addition as it will help keep a cooler charge, not more power. High flow CATS? If you think those are going to get you big power gains, they won't. But, they could change your exhaust noise, given a larger exhaust. Bigger turbos? You won't need those either to reach your stated goals ( 400 AWD HP and 420 AWD TQ )

so, what did the insurance company finally say? I'm pretty sure that even if the BC clover was damaged, they would only replace it with an OEM strut

HANKOOK VENTUS S1 NOBLE2 I have a set of four ( 4 ) of the above listed tires. They only have 3,000 original miles on them. Tires are in excellent / like-new condition. I am the original owner. Tires have been stored on a wooden pallet, each in their own bag for protection. Brand new today these tires are $323.99 for one ( 1 ) , per Tire Rack. I will sell the set for $500 firm. Of course, there is a catch. I live in Mass. so you have to come to me. If interested, please let me know

I am going to presume you have a 2012 Ford Edge SE since you didn't expressly state the trim model. Per Cooper Tire, your standard tire size for that car is 235/65 17. Cooper offer the Endeavor Plus and the Endeavor Winter in that size. Maybe the whole issue resolves around the current wheel / tire you have on the car, as they are over-sized from OEM standard. The 245/50 20 is an optional size. Per the Tire Rack reviews, the Endeavor Plus is rated " Excellent " in comfort. When I bought my car, they came with 245/50 20 Hankook Ventus S1 Noble 2. The comfort rating is lower than yours ( 8.0 ( me ) vs. 8.7 ( you ). I found those tires too soft so I chose a different tire of the same size to meet my wants / desires. Now I just have to find someone who wants them Seems your initial plan of going back to 17 wheels / tires may be the best solution for you.

So you have to go to the dealer for service

You have to ask yourself, " Why do you need these ? " They claim no additional NVH to the cabin, but where are the videos to confirm this? They also do not say how this will affect ride quality, if it even matters to you. What are these things made of and what is their life expectancy? These may be nothing but a plastic insert and wear out quickly. For $300, I would want to know more

What exact brand tire doo you currently have and what air pressure are you running in the tires? Before you go making this swap, you are going to have to do a little homework. Determine the wheel offset of your 20" wheels. Determine the wheel offset of these 17" wheels. This will tell you the amount of backspacing you have / will have. What size rotors are on the 2018 Mustang? What size rotors are on your Edge? If they are not the same, you are going to have a problem. You also have to look at the inside design of the 2018 Mustang wheels and your current wheels. This is another potential clearance problem. Quite honestly, I would not do this. Too many potential issues. If the real reason for doing this is a ride quality issue, the easiest way to fix this is: 1. You could lower your tire pressure a small amount 2. You could replace your tires with ones that have a softer sidewall. The easiest way to find out is pull one of your wheels, pull one of the Mustang wheels and install the Mustang wheel on your Edge and properly bolt the Mustang wheel down. Now spin it by hand and see if there are any issues.

Another possible cause to this low speed chatter / shutter is the need for a SW update. This can be found under Ford TSBs. Once I forced the dealership to perform the SW update, the issue was gone.

I don't see how prolonged use would have any negative effects. What you don't want to do is hold the pressure wand right up against any part / paint. That might cause an issue. Great tool as STBEAST already said. Use common sense and you should not have any problems. ALWAYS be careful if spraying around any electronics

Well, think about this: Take that $2400 / yearly cost and put it in a separate bank account and use that money for big repair bills. After a few years, that will be a tidy sum to dip into. If you never need it, then you have a bundle of cash for something else. If it was me, I would not pay that. Too much money.