Samurai Edge

As mentioned above, I would not panic yet. Many problems related to any make / model are typically attributed to lack of proper maintenance by the vehicle owner(s). You said the vehicle has low miles, so you are in a good starting point. As a reference, the AI Assistant says this: As 1004ron stated, contact Ford and fin=d out where you stand first. The TSB provides guidance to the Ford Techs on how to search for evidence of early failure. If there is no evidence, you are at a good starting point and, with proper maintenance, you may well have a good car on your hands.

You mean like this? https://tillmantools.com/products/ford-rotunda-307-582a-installer-cover-axle-seal A 5 second Google search gave me the answer. Now, before you go spending $160 on this " special tool ", you can buy complete Axle seal sets on Amazon for around $100. That's what it cost me for a similar set several years ago.

I just looked it up and you are correct UNLESS: " State-Specific Laws: Some states may have laws that provide implied warranties even in private sales, particularly if the vehicle has certain characteristics or if the seller has made specific representations about the vehicle. " So, it's possible and depends on where the vehicle was sold / purchased. It's an option IF the buyer feels something is wrong / misrepresented at the time of the sale. I am not advocating for any type of lawsuit. Just something to consider. As I mentioned, we do not know if the OP has a Bill of Sale and what that Bill of Sale states if one exists. Then again, I just re-read the OP's original post and see now that I am not sure of when this vehicle was actually purchased. It seems odd that the RDU would go bad in 50K miles, not that it is not possible. State-Specific Laws: Some states may have laws that provide implied warranties even in private sales, particularly if the vehicle has certain characteristics or if the seller has made specific representations about the vehicle. State-Specific Laws: Some states may have laws that provide implied warranties even in private sales, particularly if the vehicle has certain characteristics or if the seller has made specific representations about the vehicle.

While I don't disagree with what you are saying is possible, 162 ft/lbs for the Edge wheel torque seems high. The Ford F150 and the Lincoln Navigator are both 150 ft/lbs wheel torque. Without looking up the numbers, I'm fairly sure that both those vehicle's weight are equal to, if not greater than, the weight of the Ford Edge.

Of course you can BUT . . .. Adding new fluid to " top off " the old fluid does extend the use of the old fluid to some amount, but does not equal actually replacing the old fluid with fresh fluid What do you do when the fluid level of the PTU is FULL and you can't add any new gear oil? Unless you have evidence that the PTU is leaking, there is no need to add fluid. If the PTU fluid has been in there at least 20K miles, then you need to change it out completely. Forget the fact the manual says the PTU fluid is good for 30K miles. Go with that if you wish but at 20K miles, mine was a dirty, dark brown fluid. You have to remember that the PTU is sandwiched between the transmission, engine and exhaust systems. That is a pretty hostile environment, adding to the fact the amount of PTU fluid is small. And, there is no need to pull the PTU to drain the old fluid. You can literally use a vacuum unit designed for fluid removal to vacuum ( suck ) all the PTU fluid out and then pump all new fluid into the PTU for the refill. That is what I did and it works easily with zero mess.

All you have to do is run water from a hose over the windshield for a while, if you have that opportunity

You realize that water takes the easiest path. So, where you see a leak over here, does not mean the leak the leak isn't coming from over there. Couldn't tell from your explanation but did you have this leak before or after the windshield replacement? - If it came after, most likely the windshield person did not properly seal the windshield. This is not uncommon. That's why you can't go to just any windshield place to get a new windshield. As far as that air cowl drain hose goes, did you try blowing pressurized air through it to ensure there is no blockage?

That definitely looks like a vacuum hose. You will need to take your air intake out to get a clearer picture of where that hose connects to. Look everywhere as sometimes the connection can be hard to find.

Are you sure the noise is from the RDU and not somewhere else? Noises are a funny thing. They can sound like they are coming from one place but be coming from another. First most obvious approach - Have you checked the RDU fluid level? First thing I'd do is replace the RDU fluid with the appropriate amount using the appropriate fluid. Check your Owner's Manual ( you can find them on-line if the car doesn't have one ) for the appropriate RDU oil weight. It is not the same for all Ford Edge years. If you are unsure where the noise is exactly coming from ( ie; it could be the u-joints or something else ), one thing you can do is get the car up on the lift and have someone gently accelerate while you listen for where the noise is coming from. NOTE: Did you have this car inspected before purchase? Even if you buy from a private seller, the seller is responsible for a properly performing vehicle for 30 days minimum ( could be longer (?)). When you purchased the vehicle, do you have a Bill of Sale and, if so, does it state you purchased the vehicle " As Is "?

Curious to know what they said would be required to fix it. Are we talking cutting out the metal and replacing with new metal or something else?

You do not need access to OASIS to find any recalls or TSBs related to your vehicle. A simple internet search for 2020 Ford Edge ST TSBs and safety recalls will provide you with that list. As to which TSBs / safety recalls have been performed on your particular vehicle, you may not be able to get that answer simply because if they were performed, the dealer most likely never documented them. That was my personal experience when I checked these for my car and discussed them with my former dealer.. TIP: If you compile a complete list of TSBs / safety recalls on your car, and you take that list to your dealer, don't be surprised if you piss them off. According to my former Ford dealer, they do not have to perform any TSBs UNLESS your car is actively having an issue related to a specific TSB. Safety recalls are different and they have to perform safety recalls. As far as the 2020 Ford Edge ST, I have found zero safety recalls that affect my car. I just noticed you are in Poland. Maybe you have better dealers there than in the U.S.

I was confused with your original post. I thought you wanted to replace the actual sunroof panel seal, not the sunshade cable. Quite honestly, this took me 15 seconds to find. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=how+to+replace+ford+edge+sunroof+shade&t=h_&ia=web This will provide you with lots of options on the Ford Sunshade repair.

I agree with you that 162 ft/lbs is too high a number and wonder where that number came from. Your note above also draws interest as to whether or not the Ford manual is showing the correct numbers or not. By comparison, I just looked up the wheel torque numbers for the Ford Mustang, which shows 150 ft/lbs for the 2015 - 2026 model years. " Ford recommends 150 lb-ft for all 2024–2026 Mustangs, including EcoBoost, GT, and Dark Horse trims. " Looking at the 2015 - 2026 F150 wheel torque specs, Ford recommended numbers are 150 ft/lbs. Looking at the Lincoln Navigator 2014 - 2026 wheel torque specs, Ford recommended numbers are 150 ft/lbs. Something is amiss here in the Ford stated torque numbers ( 162 ft/lbs ) for the Edge. The Mustang, Navigator and F150 noted above, all have a 5x114.5 bolt pattern. The Edge, like the Ford Fusion, has a 5x108 bolt pattern The Fusion, from 2006 to the present shows a wheel torque spec of 100 - 110 ft/lbs. However, like the Edge, I also found specs ranging from ~ 80 - 150 ft/lbs.

Well, that was fun . . . . Just for yuks, I just did an internet search for the Ford Edge lug nut torque specs, for the years 2007 to 2024. Depending on where you find the information, the torque spec ranges from a low of 79 ft/lbs to a high of 162 ft/lbs ( as shown in the Ford documentation ). Where fh4ever had his Service Manager & Parts guy tell him that 162 ft/lbs is the correct answer, my purchasing dealer Service Tech told me 100 ft/lbs. When in doubt, go with the Service Manual and hope the values specified for any item is correct.

I used the brush-on type as you described in the past. Maybe I got a bad batch or maybe they changed formulas and then changed back again. I have no idea. If it has worked for you more recently than 10 years ago, maybe they improved it again. More power to you if they had.

Pull the center console.

As far as instructions on how to replace, have you checked other platforms other than there Ford Edge Forums? I suggest a Google search. Instructions for replacing the roof panel seal requires complete removal of the sun roof to perform. Could be this repair will be the same procedure. From the instructions, it's nt overly difficult, but time consuming.

I'm fairly certain that Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer is the product I used years ago. I would not use it now as the product became ineffective. I've never used POR-15 nor Fluid Film. Everything I have read about the two products has shown that: 1. Fluid Film works, but washes off and needs to be re-done once a year, at a minimum. All depends on your operating environment. 2. POR-15 works very well, but as stated, it's messy and, IIRC, professional equipment is needed to apply properly. You don't just spray it on.

Where are you getting the 162 ft/lb number from? Your User Manual? Mine originally stated 150 ft/lbs which I can install & remove by hand, BUT it seems way too high. What I ultimately found out is that the 150 ft/lb value was for trucks, not cars. I now torque to 100 ft/lbs. Haven't had a wheel come off yet.

Why not just re-paint it gloss black?

Years ago, back in the 80s, I used a product ( name forgotten ), that made that same claim and actually worked. Within the last 10 years somewhere, no longer, I used the same product again and it did nothing. The company obviously changed the formula, as is so common anymore, to save money. The product was definitely not " Fluid Film ". If " Fluid Film " really works, that would be great.

Doesn't matter which end he sprays in. If you see rust, then you have rust, plain and simple. You will not know how much rust you have in that door unless you take the door apart. Covering the rust with any type of lubricant / sealer / anti-rust compound does not make the rust go away. It masks it. The only real way to eliminate the rust is to cut it out and you will have to take a good section of the rusted area and the surrounding non-rusted area out to ensure you get it all, or as much as possible. Rust is a cancer. What you don't see is what can kill your car.

The only problem with the video above is that you are now spraying over the rust that is already there. The best time to do that is when you first buy your brand new car.

Have you tried this: https://itstillruns.com/disable-abs-brakes-7762579.html

Boost PSI can be set with a tune I don't know why you want to shut off / completely remove the grill shutters. There are there to help your engine warm up. More critical in Minn - E - Sota than in Arizona. If you are thinking of installing a larger front intercooler, you can trim the shutters so it will fit. Directions can be found elsewhere in these forums and on Youtube