Samurai Edge

Good repeat of the manufacturer's position. It really means nothing. As long as someone uses an oil, gear oil, etc., that, at a minimum, meets the standards of the specified oil, gear oil, etc., then said oil performs the same, at a minimum, of the specified oil. Redline MT-LV 70W/75W ( Full Synthetic ) meets that specification. https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-lv-70w75w

I would think there should not be any leaking at all from the gas tank, but that's me as it doesn't make any sense. It should be a closed system with the only openings being the gas cap and the injectors. Dropping the tank in your driveway will be a PITA. I did a little poking around and found this: https://www.facebook.com/groups/fordedgeforum/posts/2803331423198293/ I am not a Facebook User but it looks like it may contain the info you may need. An AI response produced this:

The Owner's Manual? That's a funny place to look. 😉 That particular option is ridiculously / outrageously expensive. This is what I use : Redline MT-LV 70W/75W ( Full Synthetic )

It wouldn't be from the drain plug since that's in a different area of the RDU. If you are not seeing any spots on the floor, I wouldn't be too concerned right now. I would just keep an eye out for any leaks in the future. Get that software upgrade done and see if that makes the problem go away.

Honestly, that could be almost anything. Car undersides pick up all kinds of dirt & grease from the roadway all the time. Do you park the car in the same place, the same way everytime? Are there any wet spots on the pavement directly under where the RDU sits? What happens when you place your finger on that area shown in the picture? All I'm saying is don't jump to conclusions just because you watched that video.

Did you have the software update that resolves issues with the rear diff making rumble noises? I had some of that on left & right turns, randomly, and that solved that issue. Can you see where the leak is coming from? - Is it from the connection to the rear diff? - Is it coming from on top of the rear diff? There is typically a breather hole on top of the rear diff to allow for expansion of air in the rear diff as the oil heats up and expands. Remember the rear diff is not completely full. - Did you drive through something that makes it look like the rear diff is leaking? The above procedure does work on a 2020 but I suggest you make sure where the leak is actually coming from before you tear into this project.

Calipers, Rotors, Pads, etc. are the same on an Edge ST with 21" wheels or 20" wheels so there will be no issues.

That's an excellent video. And the whole process only takes 16 minutes! 😃

In which vehicle? The 2022 is not designed to use that weight gear oil

Despite everything you have tried in an attempt to solve the clunking issue, and everything you have done appears correct, it is possible that the strut is bad internally. The only way to fix it is to get a replacement. Go back to where you bought them from, explain the issue and they should replace it without issue. They do come with a warranty, right?

OK, so, since you already dropped the money, no point in trying to return the vehicle. I know you now realize buying without first driving / having the vehicle checked out by a trusted mechanic was an improper move but time to move on. 1. Are loose ball joints in the control arm something I need to worry about changing soon? - Definitely must be done. Bad ball joints can result in complete failure of the suspension system and loss of control of the car. 2. Or even the seals for the CV axles where they connect the front transmission? - Those seals keep the CV grease in the CV Joints. Failure will result in a destroyed CV Joint, which connects your half-shaft the the wheel / transmission. This could also result in damage to the transmission. 3. A rear drive shaft because the linkage is corroded and the parts cannot be replaced, - I'm not sure what you mean when you say " linkage ". IIRC, the rear driveshaft is a 2-piece unit, connected in the middle by a u-joint that attaches to the frame. Sometimes it is possible to replace that center u-joint but you have to know what you are doing and it is a PITA. Typically the rear 2-piece unit is considered one-piece and, yes, the whole rear driveshaft unit would need to be replaced. - Presuming the rear driveshaft " linkage " is bad, then failure to replace, depending on how the unit fails, ( worst case scenario ) could result in planting a driveshaft into the street as you drive, causing a serious accident and possibly launching the car into the air. 4. And if I need to change them all what is a good price estimate to get it done by a good mechanic? - Pricing changes all over the country for the exact same thing. You are going to have to shop mechanics in your area for reputation and pricing.

Did you check for any type of blockage in the Driver Side air flow?

Are we talking replacing the rear shock? Did you try Googling for an answer? I found it first try.

Hey, use whatever you want for fuel. Your money. Your car. You are only running an SEL. STBeast and myself are running an ST. Clearly states in the manual for premium fuel, not the cheapest we can find. I would never use cheap fuel, ie; 87 octane in a turbocharged car unless I was desperate and there was nothing else available, and only then just enough to get me to the next station. Since you apparently used an unknown station, or one you would not normally use, may very well have gotten a bad tank of contaminated fuel.

The Edge is not a FlexFuel vehicle, hence not designed to run on anything more than 10% ethanol. IIRC, 93 Octane seems to be more of an East Coast thing, ie; more prevalent than on the West Coast.

I stated concentrated, ie; non-diluted, because when you flush the system as described, you will be left with water still in your system. By using the concentrate, you will be close to a 50 / 50 mix. BTW, the concentrate is cheaper than the 50/50 mix from the supply store and you are paying for water. As 1004ron said, I also buy the concentrate and dilute on my own

One could also use a system like the following to flush out the entire system and then fill with concentrated ( non-diluted ie; 50/50 ) anti-freeze https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRH5G/?coliid=IBXVQ52CJGVOB&colid=1VY88PYQ3KPE1&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Just remember you are not completely draining the coolant from the engine with a normal flush. Old coolant will still reside in the engine so this may be the cause of your " green "coolant.

Just remember I said that something wrong with the PCM is a possibility, not the actual cause. Agent 1004 seems confused. As previously mentioned / questioned, are the spark plugs / coils of known origin? You mentioned Rock Auto. Have you checked all spark plug / coil connections to be certain they are secure? Where do you buy your fuel? I have had past issues with fuel sources that have created intermittent issues like you are mentioning. Even trusted fuel stations in the past were no longer trusted. Stations are susceptible to leaky tanks as well as buying cheap fuel from other sources, ie; not Mobil fuel from a certified Mobil distributor so they can increase profit on fuel sales.

Sounds like something loose in the suspension. Could have a loose / failed rear shock, which would make it simple to fix. Have you looked around the area to see if you can see anything out of place; ie: loose inner fender well, shock not properly bolted in place, etc. You can only see so much with the wheel / tire installed.

I run 93 octane because it's available to me and worth it, to me, because I can tell the difference is how the car runs. No one is saying you have to run 93 octane. What we are saying is the car is not designed to run on greater than 10% ethanol, hence the issue you are having. Winter gas does not contain more ethanol than summer gas. Ethanol additive to fuel is regulated to specific amounts by law. https://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-efficiency/fuel-consumption/summer-fuel1.htm

Just FYI: I went and did a SW update via Ford website once and it took something like 9 hours to complete the update so, maybe, 45 minutes was not long enough. Just a thought. You said others got this sync3 working when they replaced their sync2. - Did they go into any detail showing exactly what they did and what parts they used, IE; maybe they used a combination of different cables or something. And then, of course the more obvious question: Are you sure the unit from the 2017 Ford Escape was actually working correctly before you removed it from the Escape?

I would say it's a definite possibility. Did you ever look up how a PCM operates? https://www.ryansautomi.com/articles/what-is-the-pcm-on-a-ford-edge.html https://duckduckgo.com/?ia=web&origin=funnel_home_website_headlinesafari_control&t=h_&q=how+does+the+PCM+in+a+Ford+Edge+work&chip-select=search

Yes, it's true. I have seen in the Subaru world where people are using E85 because they claim they get better performance numbers on the dyno. What nobody is saying, or realizing, is that you get may better performance but you are also burning the fuel faster due to the higher ethanol content fuel. So, is it really worth the cost over all buying cheaper E85 over the standard fuel? IMHO, absolutely not. The only cars that should be using the E85 are those cars whose fuel systems are deliberately designed to run on E85. FlexFuel systems are so designed so they go either way. You must live out in the corn state area where corn is aplenty to use to generate the E85 fuel.

How do you know for a fact that the sync3 you took out of the 2017 Ford Escape is directly compatible with your 2013 Edge? Something is not talking to something else correctly, hence your problem. Consider researching how to reset the 2017 Ford Escape sync3 so that it can be reset / talk to work in your 2013 Ford Edge.