Samurai Edge

I would guard against this. Even if he took the actual white plastic baffle and went to install it in the aluminum pan, the only apparent way to attach the baffle would be to screw it to the pan. The pans are not that thick so that would most likely crack the pan or cause an additional point of leakage. Another possibility would be something like JB Weld, but I don't know how such a product would last being submersed in oil, even hot oil, in it's lifetime.

I don't think this would solve the issue. One would think it would not hurt. You would still be missing the point of the white plastic baffle which is to hold a quantity of oil in a specific area of the oil pick up. Which raises another question: I could not find an oil pick-up tube in the parts drawings anywhere for this particular pan. Does this connect directly to a port on the bottom of the engine or is there indeed an oil pick-up tube? If there is indeed a pick-up tube, then there is another possibility that there is a loose connection of the pick-up tube to the motor OR that pick-up tube may be cracked, leading to a loss of pressure especially under high flow, like hard acceleration.

I don't know where you got that info on the differences in dyno numbers between 87 octane. 15 - 17 HP compared to what? As far as my reasoning for staying with 93 octane: - Yes, there is a felt performance difference - More importantly, the motor just runs better overall - Smoother, more responsive, etc.

I was wondering if there was something like that. Good idea! 💡

This looks like your oil pan: https://ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-oil-pan-ft4z6675d What I am not seeing / finding is an oil pan pick-up anywhere I look. That could be the problem right there. The oil pick-up, being smaller on the aluminum pan sounds like the culprit. A smaller than designed oil pick-up could create an oil starvation issue, but that's my thought. When you look at the oil pick-up area on the OEM pan, it looks like that white " plastic cover " creates a larger area for the oil to gather for pick-up into the motor. The aluminum pan has no such area but pick up directly from the open pan area. A typical oil pick-up has section at the end of the pick-up tube that sits bathed in the oil to suck in the oil in the pan. I think the OEM white " plastic cover " is that section I described above which is clearly missing from the aluminum pan. Presuming you didn't change anything else, looks like you know your issue.

I do not use this forum on a mobile. My mobile, a phone, is a phone. Phone screen is too small for such things as this forum.

I have found that TRQ makes good videos. Informative and easy to understand. And, yes, I already have that removal tool, and others. They work really well.

I notice the difference when I had normally-aspirated vehicles. I also notice the difference in my outdoor power equipment. To me, it's worth the extra expense over a lower octane fuel. Luckily, we are not at $6 / gallon for 93 octane, yet. But we are getting there 🥲

Did you research any information on snow chain usage on the Ford Edge before asking his question? Here are a coupe of answers: https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/ownership/customers-ask-ford/should-i-use-tire-cables-or-chains-with-my-vehicle/ But, you live in Irvine, CA. so what type of conditions are you expecting in Southern Cali?

Facebook will not be the same as this forum. Thankfully, I hate social media and won't go there AND I work from a desktop 🙂

Why are you concerned shifting down to 87 octane? The cost of fuel? I only use 93 octane ( easily available her in the NE ) for two reasons: - 1. I have always found the engine runs better on the higher octane - 2. Having turbochargers makes it even more important, to me.

Another good possibility. Could be one of the half-shafts. Could be the bearings in the driveshaft as well. Or the U-joints. In my experience, it was the TSM that was causing the issue the OP described. I would check all the potential points before spending any money. To check any of the half-shafts or the driveshaft, one has to get under the car and physically move the half-shafts / driveshaft around to determine just how much play / movement ( Up / Down / Side-to-Side ) there is. A little play is expected / normal. A lot of play is abnormal. Should be fairly obvious.

You have to supply a LOT more info if you expect to get any reasonable help. Right now, no one has any idea what the issues are

The " clunk " you hear is most likely the Torque Steering Mount ( TSM ) ( pretty sure that is the right name ) which connects the engine to the transmission. It has an aluminum body with soft rubber fillings. Definitely not a chew toy. As the rubber ages, it gets softer, allowing more movement when shifting between gears. Easy solution is to not shift too quickly between any of the gears, like Park to Reverse to back out of your parking space. Option is to install a new TSM. I think they are around $100 USD available from any Ford Dealer or there are aftermarket replacement versions. Easy to replace BUT if the mounting bolts are rusted in place, you need someone with the right tools and torch to get that darn bolt out.

Mistro399: Did you ever solve this problem? To both Mistro399 and Cossie: You didn't state under what conditions the engine shut off has occurred. Were you driving in a straight line or taking corners when this issue rises? I have no idea what specific aluminum pan you are both referring to but it sounds like a possible oil starvation issue. Not knowing the specific internal design of the aluminum pan vs the OEM pan leaves a big unknown. Just because something will fit does not necessarily make it a good choice.

Your " thump","thump"-"thump"-"thump " sound is a rotational noise, as opposed to something loose banging. Possible options: - Something with the drive shaft. Could have a worn bearing - Something with a tire. I know you said you had them re-balanced, but could have belt separation. How many miles on the tires? Those are the first two things I would consider. You also didn't say where the noise was coming from? Front, Rear, Right Side, Left Side?

You can easily find instructions on how to replace the Ford Edge fuel tank on Youtube. I've found them before. Finding one made out of plastic?

Interesting.

Based on prior experience, do not trust the dealership when they tell you something is out of warranty or warranty does not cover an issue. If they tell you this, simply call Ford Corporate and ask them if your issue is covered under warranty or not. They will look up your VIN and tell you. Presuming it is, and the same dealership refuses to honor the warranty, you will have to find another dealership to help you out. And when you call Ford Corporate, ask them why the dealership would sell you a faulty car in the first place.

You should also check the connections for the puck. If you are getting no signals, that could be the problem.

Both are located in the shark fin rear antenna. Have you checked your Owner's Manual?

As STBEAST said, it's impossible to tell why your 2020 Edge has a drain. So many possibilities. You bought it used so you would have to go back to the original owner and even then they may not have an answer. People have posted on youtube how to install your own drain plug on one's Ford Edge PTU where one never existed before. That's one possibility. Could have been swapped from an earlier model. That's another possibility. You could have gotten lucky. That is a good thing. My 2020 has neither a PTU drain plug nor a PTU cooler.

It does not hurt anything to not have it on. It depends on what you call ugliness. Mine came with the engine cover but not the hood blanket. I removed the engine cove because it serves no real function but it does just get in the way of accessing the dipstick, etc.

Are you sure what you are hearing is not just the fuel injectors?

First guess: Check for loose calipers and brake pads