Samurai Edge

Obviously, you have issue sin your transmission, just by your statement. Did you know what you were buying into? When you buy a car at auction, who knows what you are really getting. Did you actually look up those codes: Code P0715 The P0715 code indicates a malfunction in the Input/Turbine Speed Sensor circuit, which can lead to issues like abnormal transmission operation and decreased fuel economy. It is important to diagnose the underlying cause, which may include a faulty sensor, wiring issues, or problems with the torque converter. Code P0740 The P0740 code indicates a "Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction," which can cause shifting issues, stalling, or reduced fuel economy. It's often due to low or contaminated transmission fluid, a faulty solenoid, or wiring problems. Find yourself a good transmission tech. This looks expensive

That depends. Is your car overheating? No, then save your money. Today's engines are better designed than they were in your Pappy's days. They are designed to work with specific parameters for optimum performance , with engine temps being just one of them. The FMIC will lower the intake charge into the engine, as compared to the OEM FMIC. Given all the questions you have been asking recently on engine upgrades, I don't think you have thought this whole thing through very clearly. FIRST THING: You should come up with a clear goal of what you want, and set a budget. Before you go hog wild buying parts, make your wish list and figure out how many thousands of dollars you are looking at putting into this project. Spending more money than you need to is money out the window. Greater power is not necessarily equal to the amount of money you spend.

Is this a daily car or are you planning to race it? You will not find all that much improvement, however there are multiple ways to make a wheel lighter, just to name two (2): 1. Use a smaller wheel with a smaller tire 2. Lighter, less material in the wheel to reduce weight. Unless you are willing to spend some serious cash, buying lighter wheels may also result in wheel damage from pot holes, curbs, etc. that your OEM wheels would easily survive

It's your money so spend it any way you wish, however . . . The BOV will gain you that whoosh noise you want, but that's all. If you are looking for 400 / 420, then an Unleashed Tune will get you there. Average numbers are gains of 60 HP / 70 TQ. I have no idea what the Livernois tune got you as you have not said. An FMIC is a good addition as it will help keep a cooler charge, not more power. High flow CATS? If you think those are going to get you big power gains, they won't. But, they could change your exhaust noise, given a larger exhaust. Bigger turbos? You won't need those either to reach your stated goals ( 400 AWD HP and 420 AWD TQ )

so, what did the insurance company finally say? I'm pretty sure that even if the BC clover was damaged, they would only replace it with an OEM strut

HANKOOK VENTUS S1 NOBLE2 I have a set of four ( 4 ) of the above listed tires. They only have 3,000 original miles on them. Tires are in excellent / like-new condition. I am the original owner. Tires have been stored on a wooden pallet, each in their own bag for protection. Brand new today these tires are $323.99 for one ( 1 ) , per Tire Rack. I will sell the set for $500 firm. Of course, there is a catch. I live in Mass. so you have to come to me. If interested, please let me know

I am going to presume you have a 2012 Ford Edge SE since you didn't expressly state the trim model. Per Cooper Tire, your standard tire size for that car is 235/65 17. Cooper offer the Endeavor Plus and the Endeavor Winter in that size. Maybe the whole issue resolves around the current wheel / tire you have on the car, as they are over-sized from OEM standard. The 245/50 20 is an optional size. Per the Tire Rack reviews, the Endeavor Plus is rated " Excellent " in comfort. When I bought my car, they came with 245/50 20 Hankook Ventus S1 Noble 2. The comfort rating is lower than yours ( 8.0 ( me ) vs. 8.7 ( you ). I found those tires too soft so I chose a different tire of the same size to meet my wants / desires. Now I just have to find someone who wants them Seems your initial plan of going back to 17 wheels / tires may be the best solution for you.

So you have to go to the dealer for service

You have to ask yourself, " Why do you need these ? " They claim no additional NVH to the cabin, but where are the videos to confirm this? They also do not say how this will affect ride quality, if it even matters to you. What are these things made of and what is their life expectancy? These may be nothing but a plastic insert and wear out quickly. For $300, I would want to know more

What exact brand tire doo you currently have and what air pressure are you running in the tires? Before you go making this swap, you are going to have to do a little homework. Determine the wheel offset of your 20" wheels. Determine the wheel offset of these 17" wheels. This will tell you the amount of backspacing you have / will have. What size rotors are on the 2018 Mustang? What size rotors are on your Edge? If they are not the same, you are going to have a problem. You also have to look at the inside design of the 2018 Mustang wheels and your current wheels. This is another potential clearance problem. Quite honestly, I would not do this. Too many potential issues. If the real reason for doing this is a ride quality issue, the easiest way to fix this is: 1. You could lower your tire pressure a small amount 2. You could replace your tires with ones that have a softer sidewall. The easiest way to find out is pull one of your wheels, pull one of the Mustang wheels and install the Mustang wheel on your Edge and properly bolt the Mustang wheel down. Now spin it by hand and see if there are any issues.

Another possible cause to this low speed chatter / shutter is the need for a SW update. This can be found under Ford TSBs. Once I forced the dealership to perform the SW update, the issue was gone.

I don't see how prolonged use would have any negative effects. What you don't want to do is hold the pressure wand right up against any part / paint. That might cause an issue. Great tool as STBEAST already said. Use common sense and you should not have any problems. ALWAYS be careful if spraying around any electronics

Well, think about this: Take that $2400 / yearly cost and put it in a separate bank account and use that money for big repair bills. After a few years, that will be a tidy sum to dip into. If you never need it, then you have a bundle of cash for something else. If it was me, I would not pay that. Too much money.

You do realize your first link is to a wheel cover, not a center cap, right? I would go with black. Blue would be nice if you could find it. Those LED's remind me of a 2 year old with those sneakers that light up every time they take a step

Nice Job!

Sounds like just another scam. I would regularly get notices that my extended warranty was going to expire and I needed to contact the warranty company. These notices were not from Ford, although they made it look like they were from Ford, but some 3rd party either trying to run a scam or trying to get me to buy warranty coverage I did not need. Simply go on-line to your Ford account and check your warranty and check your warranty paperwork you got when you purchased the vehicle.

I know this post is a month old but the answer you are looking for is 85 ft - lbs. Took less than 30 secs to find the answer so you need a better search engine

As far as your slight clink, it may require a software update to remove that clunk. The dealer should doo this at nob charge as it is an update, not a recall, but if you are having issues then tell them to fix it. I saw the same notice on the 25L02. IIRC, the notice states that IF your car is affected, the service is provided at no charge. Just because you got the notice does not necessarily mean your car is involved

See my post in the Brakes, Chassis forum regarding this issue.

Will they fit without issue? Probably. They are almost an inch wider so you may / may not have rubbing issues based on the OEM wheel design. However, you don't just pick the 265/45-20 because the ST performance package has 265/45-21s. That is not how it works. What you want to do is find the same overall diameter of both size tires, otherwise you can affect speedometer readings and well as other mechanical components of the vehicle, as compared to what the vehicle was originally designed to. There is not a lot of difference but to me, that is not the way I would go

As far as the overall diameter of the two different tires is concerned, brand new, the difference in overall tire diameter is 0.1". That difference is negligible. And, No, tread depth is NOT a way to determine overall tire diameter. You would have to measure tread depth all around the tire and make multiple calculations to get a result that would be worthless in resolving overall tire diameter. Unless you are constantly driving over very rough surfaces, the tread wear in 6700 miles should not be that significant. I knew a guy who ran through a brand new set of 40,000 miles tires in under 9000 miles because all his driving was over gravel surfaces. The more realistic concern is tire composition. If one tire is stickier than the other, if one tire handles differently than the other, etc., this is where there are possibilities of any damage to the PTU / transmission come into play, due to rotational differences of the tires based on faster / slower wear as compared to the other three tires. While the tires are the same overall diameter, they differ in weight, quality ratings, tread width, and tread depth. I don't know where you live, but I have a set of four (4) Hankook Ventus S1 noble2 in 245-50/20 with only 3,000 miles on them I no longer use / need

First thing to do is go back to the dealer and ask them what did they do to your car to lose steering like that? I have heard of this before but II can't remember the actual cause. Given everything that had to do to replace the transmission, there may be loose steering components they forgot to completely re-tighten.

I have had the exact same messages however when this happened, I lost power steering completely. Not easy to steer this cars under manual power! I determined after research that the problem was with this part You could have the same issue. In my case, this cable had come loose and fallen down on top of my driveshaft, which burned through the cable, requiring full cable replacement. Maybe your connections on this cabe are coming loose? Maybe your cable has fallen down like mine did, just that it has not burned through? Maybe it is something different entirely. You can find this cable behind the motor. You have to look up between the back of the motor and the front of the transmission, above the driveshaft. This is a known issue by Ford, documented in Ford paperwork. It is covered under warranty.

I hadn't seen that interview with the Ford CEO, but I did see a different one weeks ago. He was saying that all manufactures were having trouble hiring techs. He said that Ford had 20,000 openings for techs @ $120K each and they can't fill these openings. Overall, Ford had something like 1,000,000 job openings to fill but, again, getting the proper candidates is next to impossible. I also do my own research to find issues. The look on these Advisors faces is funny when I have to explain the resolve over and over again, and then they say, " I can't tell the Tech that ." The best is when I either have to fix what they screwed up or I tell them what they screwed up and I get asked, " Do you want a job? " 🤣 🤣 🤣

When going bad, wheel bearings make a squeal, not a hum. I know you just had them replaced, but sometimes you get bad ones. I had one of mine replaced after only a thousand or so miles. Brakes don't make a hum either. They squeal when either contacting the metal rub strip or when the brake pad metal backing meets the rotor. That hum sounds like some type of rubbing noise. Maybe the tire rubbing the inside of the wheel well. Maybe something wrong with your steering components