Samurai Edge

As far as your slight clink, it may require a software update to remove that clunk. The dealer should doo this at nob charge as it is an update, not a recall, but if you are having issues then tell them to fix it. I saw the same notice on the 25L02. IIRC, the notice states that IF your car is affected, the service is provided at no charge. Just because you got the notice does not necessarily mean your car is involved

See my post in the Brakes, Chassis forum regarding this issue.

Will they fit without issue? Probably. They are almost an inch wider so you may / may not have rubbing issues based on the OEM wheel design. However, you don't just pick the 265/45-20 because the ST performance package has 265/45-21s. That is not how it works. What you want to do is find the same overall diameter of both size tires, otherwise you can affect speedometer readings and well as other mechanical components of the vehicle, as compared to what the vehicle was originally designed to. There is not a lot of difference but to me, that is not the way I would go

As far as the overall diameter of the two different tires is concerned, brand new, the difference in overall tire diameter is 0.1". That difference is negligible. And, No, tread depth is NOT a way to determine overall tire diameter. You would have to measure tread depth all around the tire and make multiple calculations to get a result that would be worthless in resolving overall tire diameter. Unless you are constantly driving over very rough surfaces, the tread wear in 6700 miles should not be that significant. I knew a guy who ran through a brand new set of 40,000 miles tires in under 9000 miles because all his driving was over gravel surfaces. The more realistic concern is tire composition. If one tire is stickier than the other, if one tire handles differently than the other, etc., this is where there are possibilities of any damage to the PTU / transmission come into play, due to rotational differences of the tires based on faster / slower wear as compared to the other three tires. While the tires are the same overall diameter, they differ in weight, quality ratings, tread width, and tread depth. I don't know where you live, but I have a set of four (4) Hankook Ventus S1 noble2 in 245-50/20 with only 3,000 miles on them I no longer use / need

First thing to do is go back to the dealer and ask them what did they do to your car to lose steering like that? I have heard of this before but II can't remember the actual cause. Given everything that had to do to replace the transmission, there may be loose steering components they forgot to completely re-tighten.

I have had the exact same messages however when this happened, I lost power steering completely. Not easy to steer this cars under manual power! I determined after research that the problem was with this part You could have the same issue. In my case, this cable had come loose and fallen down on top of my driveshaft, which burned through the cable, requiring full cable replacement. Maybe your connections on this cabe are coming loose? Maybe your cable has fallen down like mine did, just that it has not burned through? Maybe it is something different entirely. You can find this cable behind the motor. You have to look up between the back of the motor and the front of the transmission, above the driveshaft. This is a known issue by Ford, documented in Ford paperwork. It is covered under warranty.

I hadn't seen that interview with the Ford CEO, but I did see a different one weeks ago. He was saying that all manufactures were having trouble hiring techs. He said that Ford had 20,000 openings for techs @ $120K each and they can't fill these openings. Overall, Ford had something like 1,000,000 job openings to fill but, again, getting the proper candidates is next to impossible. I also do my own research to find issues. The look on these Advisors faces is funny when I have to explain the resolve over and over again, and then they say, " I can't tell the Tech that ." The best is when I either have to fix what they screwed up or I tell them what they screwed up and I get asked, " Do you want a job? " 🤣 🤣 🤣

When going bad, wheel bearings make a squeal, not a hum. I know you just had them replaced, but sometimes you get bad ones. I had one of mine replaced after only a thousand or so miles. Brakes don't make a hum either. They squeal when either contacting the metal rub strip or when the brake pad metal backing meets the rotor. That hum sounds like some type of rubbing noise. Maybe the tire rubbing the inside of the wheel well. Maybe something wrong with your steering components

The issue here has nothing to do with low profile tires, larger than OEM tires or wheels, or tires with reinforced sidewalls. There are multiple reasons for the instability of the vehicle under the conditions mentioned. 1. Driver - Are they capable of performing maneuvers described 2. Road Conditions - Are they safe for performing maneuvers described 3. Tire Pressure - Are all tires are not properly inflated 4. Tires - Are all the tires the same make, model and size. If not, this can cause the issue due differences in manufacture of tire structure ( sidewalls, belts, speed ratings, etc. ). 5. Tires - Are the tires all properly balanced 6. Tires - Are the tire belts separating. You will never see this due to underlying poor manufacture 7. Suspension components - Are they worn or broken 8. Frame - Is the car frame damaged in any way 9. Engine Mounts - Are they worn or broken enigma-2 listed several of these issues above.

Update to this Event: Thanks to Christopher Gagnon, Service Manager at AutoFair Ford in Haverhill, MA., Ford Corporate has agreed to honor my warranty for the failure of my wiring harness. Obviously, this was a covered issue all along, except Best Ford in Nashua, NH was trying to prevent me from getting my money back. Unfortunately, Ford Corporate will only refund me for the money I paid by check, about 2/3rd's of the total cost. The other 1/3rd of the cost was paid by Ford Rewards Points, which were from a transmission Flush that Best Ford performed and misled me to believe that the cost would be covered by warranty but then charged me for that transmission flush anyway. Instead of giving me my money back, they gave me " store credit " ( Rewards Points ) and refused to actually return my money. According to Ford Corporate policy, only the original dealer who "gifted " the Rewards Points can grant the money to be paid to the Customer. Ford Corporate has offered to contact Best Ford for me to see if they can get Best Ford to pay me my money, but I am not expecting a positive result. So, thanks go out to AutoFair Ford of Haverhill MA. and Chris Gagnon for their support. The rest is still to be worked out, if ever

If it sounds like gears stripping, it could be something is simply off track and needs to be put back into place OR gears are stripping. They want to change you $1800 because to determine the problem, the glass roof will need to be removed. So, most of it is labor time @ $200+ / hour. There are videos on Youtube on how to do this yourself so if you feel capable, then go for it. If not, just leave it closed and never open it again. And I just realized you asked this exact same question less than a month ago and I gave you the same answer.

If the wheel is bent, which is causing the leak, then the rim can be straightened. A good tire shop can either do it or they know a professional who does it. Doing this, and keeping your current wheels, will save you more money than going to a whole new tire / wheel package in a smaller size. And, as was already stated, if you think those new wheels will stay looking new, they won't. Teen drivers, parking lots, curbs, etc. do not mix well.

When I need to get new tires, I always check the tire performance ratings on The Tire Rack. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=CSTAS https://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=W&VT=C These are just for the all weather or snow tires. Just make sure you read the User Reviews for the same type car. The other brands / types have no meaning because what works well on one model may not work the same on another model. I've have always been very satisfied by using these performance models in making tire decisions. Tire Rack does extensive testing to publish their ratings.

That kit will be good enough to get you to a tire shop but I would not take days to make up your mind where to go. IIRC, once that sealant is used, you may not be able to re-use that damaged tire. Has to do with the sealant all over the inside of the tire. Best option? Determine the size needed for a spare tire and buy one with a wheel that fits your car. And remember, spare tires are designed for temporary use, no more than about 50 miles before the tire degrades. I know people have driven a lot longer than that on a spare tire, but you are taking a chance of perhaps getting into a bad accident because when things go wrong, they go wrong at the wrong at the wrong time in the wrong place. Murphy's Law of the Universe

That's good info to know. Both Grappone Ford & Portsmouth Ford are about 50 minutes to an hour away for me. Not much different from Worst Ford. I went to AutoFair Ford in Haverhill for help and after a month I have heard nothing from them. Even though they have claimed that they will definitely help me out, they claim it's complicated but how complicated can it really be? Just got off the phone with Ford Corporate and, no surprise here, there is no warranty claim submitted for warranty service by AutoFair Ford of Haverhill. Ford Corporate also told me it only takes ~ 5 minutes to submit a claim. I'll be contacting AutoFair Ford on this issue, and then most likely be calling Grappone / Portsmouth Ford for help. Hopefully, they will service Ford customers as dealerships should do. FX3 - Greatly appreciate your input !!!

To get your answer, a simple internet search will answer your question. However, to repair the sunshade, you are going to have to remove the glass panel. Are you up to the task?

First question that pops to mind: Are you cleaning your rubber moulding with anything? Any kind of chemicals, just water, windex, etc.? Anything at all? Something you are using may be degrading the moulding.

I suspect the tech just made a huge mess filling the transmission and spilled a lot of excess transmission fluid everywhere. Shame on them. As stated by 1004ron above, " Best check the owner's manual for the transmission fluid change interval. In extreme operating conditions such as towing etc. the recommended transmission fluid change interval is 30K miles, and for normal use 150K miles. " The interval you have for transmission fluid changes depends on how you filled out your Maintenance Plan. If you marked " Extreme Operating ", then 30K mile intervals is what your plan states, and therefore, per your Maintenance Plan, the dealership should be performing the change every 30K. Personally, if you read the definition of " Extreme Conditions " in the plan, it pretty much defines what every day driving is. As long as it is covered in your plan at 30K miles, then you are all set. No worries.

I have never used AMSOil products so I can't say. The PTU calls for Motorcraft XY75W85QL ( Synthetic ), which is ridiculously expensive. As an option, you can use either one of these. I use the Motul. Red Line 50104 75W85 GL-5 Hypoid Limited Slip ( Full Synthetic ) Motul Gear 300 75w90 105777 ( Full Synthetic )

Service Managers and Service Advisors say all sorts of things when they have no idea what they are talking about. They will tell you that conventional oil and full synthetic oil are the same and you should change your oil at 3K miles. They will also tell you the PTU never needs a fluid change. Do your own research. Change out the PTU and RDU fluids at 20K miles. Use proper rated fluids, which do not have to be Motorcraft. There are other brands that are just as good but less expensive. Redline and Motul are typically what I use

I agree. Get the Bilstein B6s and do it yourself.

Even though this is 5 years old, but for Ashley's sake, yes it could be normal. Mine is also ever so slightly black but not like the picture. The muffler has two ( 2 ) small weep holes, one at either side of the muffler.

Ford has my account. I legally have an extended warranty in place and active. I reviewed Best ( Worst ) Ford on Yelp and there are a surprisingly large number of serious complaints against this dealership. I got a really good deal when I originally bought the car, the best in my area. Apparently, now all they are concerned with is taking people's money and screwing them out of as much of it as they can. It became apparent during this whole issue that they don't want to put forward the effort to submit a claim. They get their money either way, but they don't have to do the paperwork AND they can get more money by charging the customer for things they did wrong ( like in my case, repairing a cable at an excessively high cost instead of simply replacing the cable, as they should have done in the first place, per Ford Corporate ) and claiming Ford Motor Company would not pay the claim. My friend always refers to dealerships as " Stealerships ". Obviously, this dealership clearly falls into the category of " Stealerships ".

This is another vote for Best Ford, Nashua, N.H. being renamed to " WORST Ford ". These people are unprofessional and unethical. Purchased vehicle from this dealership in 2020, along with an 8 year extended warranty. Had a warranty issue occur a couple of months ago and they flat out refused to submit a warranty claim. They told me lie after lie as to the reasoning why Ford Corporate would not accept a warranty claim on my car. Every time I pushed back that their reasoning was ridiculous, they gave me another lie. How do I know they lied? I called Ford Corporate and confirmed that everything that the Service Advisors, Assistant Service Manager, Service Manager and the General Manager told me was lie. The last lie was when the Best Ford General Manager told me was that they did submit a warranty claim. I followed up with Ford Corporate and they told me no such claim was ever submitted. To top this all off, instead of replacing the part, they decided to repair the part because " that is what we do ". Due to the repair, they charged me around 12 times what the replacement would have cost. Ford Corporate wanted to know why they refused to file the claim, why they didn't just replace the part, and that my issue would have been covered IF a warranty claim was submitted. Per Ford Corporate, I am seeking help from another dealership.

I don't think they are " one-time use " either but Ford is being cautious. It's like saying, on older cars, every time you change the oil you have to change the oil drain plug gasket. Not a true statement. It's very tight in there to remove that PTU cover plate without moving anything else. I chose to buy a MityVac unit specifically for vacuuming out the gear fluid. Sucked it almost dry. I used another MityVac unit, so I didn't have to clean them in-between same-time uses for the PTU, to pump the new gear oil in. Took the correct amount of fluid as specified in the manuals. ( That's why I said it sucked it dry ) And, of course, a lot less messier.