Samurai Edge

If the door latch clicks open, can you raise the door by hand? If yes, then your rear hatch motor may have failed, or you have a short somewhere in the power line.

Typically there is a drain hose from the cowl down below the chassis. If you have one, then it's possibly clogged. If you are missing one, then that looks like your issue.

Just go buy the original part. Not worth trying to grab something from the local parts store. https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-nut_-w711889-s441.html There are tools you can buy to measure bolt pitch but it would probably take longer to get that tool than just get the OEM nut.

I could live with that as well. You may have a $100 deductible that goes with that but still acceptable. Could be that the fluid was never changed, hence a solid reason for the failure. The RDU fluid is only a 75W straight fluid so it's not the typical 75W90 or 75W140 found in earlier models. Plan to replace that RDU fluid every 20K miles so you never have a repeat of this issue

Extended Warranty? If the dealership tells you that your car is over 5 years old, and Ford does not warranty Ford cars that old, they are outright lying to you. There a number of reasons that the rear diff broke up. Here are only two (2): - Are you the original owner? - Did you ever have the rear diff fluid changed before?

Do you NEED an oil pan gasket? Not necessarily Can you use a quality silicon gasket sealer alone without an oil pan gasket? Yes. Doesn't look like Ford has an oil pan gasket for your vehicle. The turbo pipe is connected to the turbo. You just follow it to see where it goes.

First, do an internet search on your particular issue looking for " coolant intrusion " on your particular vehicle / engine and see what you find. That may give you the answer you need. Second, call Ford Corporate and see what they say AFTER you do your own search. Did the dealership clearly explain what they meant by " coolant intrusion " ? That could mean almost anything. Could be as simple as a leaking head gasket which does not require a long block replacement. Head gasket replacement could be $3000.

I know this is several months old but for those following this: Just because the dealership says you are on your own, that does not mean you are. Personally experience tells me otherwise. If you are within your warranty period, call Ford Corporate. Dealerships lie to the customer because they don't want to do the work. Carefully review your warranty documentation. You may get relief if you keep on Ford Corporate.

As mentioned above, I would not panic yet. Many problems related to any make / model are typically attributed to lack of proper maintenance by the vehicle owner(s). You said the vehicle has low miles, so you are in a good starting point. As a reference, the AI Assistant says this: As 1004ron stated, contact Ford and fin=d out where you stand first. The TSB provides guidance to the Ford Techs on how to search for evidence of early failure. If there is no evidence, you are at a good starting point and, with proper maintenance, you may well have a good car on your hands.

You mean like this? https://tillmantools.com/products/ford-rotunda-307-582a-installer-cover-axle-seal A 5 second Google search gave me the answer. Now, before you go spending $160 on this " special tool ", you can buy complete Axle seal sets on Amazon for around $100. That's what it cost me for a similar set several years ago.

I just looked it up and you are correct UNLESS: " State-Specific Laws: Some states may have laws that provide implied warranties even in private sales, particularly if the vehicle has certain characteristics or if the seller has made specific representations about the vehicle. " So, it's possible and depends on where the vehicle was sold / purchased. It's an option IF the buyer feels something is wrong / misrepresented at the time of the sale. I am not advocating for any type of lawsuit. Just something to consider. As I mentioned, we do not know if the OP has a Bill of Sale and what that Bill of Sale states if one exists. Then again, I just re-read the OP's original post and see now that I am not sure of when this vehicle was actually purchased. It seems odd that the RDU would go bad in 50K miles, not that it is not possible. State-Specific Laws: Some states may have laws that provide implied warranties even in private sales, particularly if the vehicle has certain characteristics or if the seller has made specific representations about the vehicle. State-Specific Laws: Some states may have laws that provide implied warranties even in private sales, particularly if the vehicle has certain characteristics or if the seller has made specific representations about the vehicle.

While I don't disagree with what you are saying is possible, 162 ft/lbs for the Edge wheel torque seems high. The Ford F150 and the Lincoln Navigator are both 150 ft/lbs wheel torque. Without looking up the numbers, I'm fairly sure that both those vehicle's weight are equal to, if not greater than, the weight of the Ford Edge.

Of course you can BUT . . .. Adding new fluid to " top off " the old fluid does extend the use of the old fluid to some amount, but does not equal actually replacing the old fluid with fresh fluid What do you do when the fluid level of the PTU is FULL and you can't add any new gear oil? Unless you have evidence that the PTU is leaking, there is no need to add fluid. If the PTU fluid has been in there at least 20K miles, then you need to change it out completely. Forget the fact the manual says the PTU fluid is good for 30K miles. Go with that if you wish but at 20K miles, mine was a dirty, dark brown fluid. You have to remember that the PTU is sandwiched between the transmission, engine and exhaust systems. That is a pretty hostile environment, adding to the fact the amount of PTU fluid is small. And, there is no need to pull the PTU to drain the old fluid. You can literally use a vacuum unit designed for fluid removal to vacuum ( suck ) all the PTU fluid out and then pump all new fluid into the PTU for the refill. That is what I did and it works easily with zero mess.

All you have to do is run water from a hose over the windshield for a while, if you have that opportunity

You realize that water takes the easiest path. So, where you see a leak over here, does not mean the leak the leak isn't coming from over there. Couldn't tell from your explanation but did you have this leak before or after the windshield replacement? - If it came after, most likely the windshield person did not properly seal the windshield. This is not uncommon. That's why you can't go to just any windshield place to get a new windshield. As far as that air cowl drain hose goes, did you try blowing pressurized air through it to ensure there is no blockage?