fh4ever

ok, I'm back and been thinking about my recent coolant change. I watched a video where a guy changed his Ford edge coolant in an older model. He drained it and only about 5 quarts came out. He filled with distilled water (did not vacuum fill), ran it and drained it. Then vacuum filled about 5 quarts of premixed. fast forward to yesterday, I drained my 2009 mustang coolant and vacuum filled it, it took about 10 quarts (about double the Edge). This made me recall seeing where the Edge holds about 10.4 quarts. Therefore I only drained about half of the coolant in the system like the guy in the video? Can anyone explain if that is all that comes out of a 10.4 quart system? That half of the coolant remains in the engine? or was there a technique that I missed to get all the coolant out? Its only a 30k mile coolant change so not too worried. I just want to knwo what is going on with this.

ahh you removed the front cover giving you more access. I only removed the large one under the motor/tranny. took it out the road for about mile after about a 10 minute idle. let it cool and level looks good. I think we are in good shape. thanks for your input.

yep, the plain type adapter is what i used. It covers the rectangular hole, even has a flange on the top that rest against the top of the hole. but the best I can figure is, the rubber adpater is not supported at the rectangular hole, and the vacuum pulls it inward sucking air right thru the rectangular hole. I was thinking the conical adapter might seal at the botton of the neck... below the rectangle hole. But I did not try that. Instead, I put tape on the bottom of the tank where that hole exits and the vacuum pulled the tape tight sealing the bottom. I wish I knew about this hole so that I could have fill it with the vacuum first thing. But when I encountered issues and filled the tank manually to reduce volumn and then pulled vacuum, it pulled out some of the coolant. I then used the vacuum to finish filling and the tank was completely full. I had to remove some coolant to get it back to the required level. Just to be sure, I pulled a second vacuum , the fluid came up to the top but not spill over, and releasing the vacuum slowly, the coolant level went back to the max position. So I would say it is completed and air pockets were eliminated. Will know for sure when it is driven to operating temp and coolant level rechecked. 1004RON...does that sound good to you? this is only the second time I used this vacuum tool, the first time on this car. It seems simple enough and I think the next time will be much easier. I did make a tool to remove (turn) the drain valve on the radiator. It makes it much easier to loosen. next time I wont take it all the way off...that was a pain getting it back in the hole. the o-ring had to compress enough to slide in.

help, this coolant change is quickly becoming worth the $$ the dealership wanted to do it for me. First, I did not know how far to turn the drain plug, I only turned it 1/2 turn and it pops out. no problem except it took forever to push it back in (had to overcome the oring) far enough for the thread to grip. So now I am trying to pull a vacuum on it. It is the compressed air type and it pulls a good vacuum while off the car. It appears i have good seals around the adapters on the coolant tank with a nice snug fit. But after 5-10 minutes, the vacuum gage still shows no vacuum. So I decided to manually fill it to eliminate as much air as possible with fluid and I have no leaks. This is an attempt to reduce the amount of air volumn that has to be evacuated. I try to pull a vacuum again. Still no vacuum buildup. Is there something on this car that is allowing air to be sucked in somewhere ? I think I will go ahead and crank it to try to circulate it some and not let it get too warm. and then try pulling another vacuum. Ok update: I found the issue. Inside the coolan tank filler neck is a passage way for over flow to spill out underneath the coolan tank. This passage way goes right thru the tank and exits underneath. The 40mm adapter plug seems to cover this passage, but I assume the plug is flexing under vacuum and drawing air in (through the underside of the tank and up thru the filler neck). So I placed tape over the hole under the tank to plug it and immediately got vacuum. So fingers cross, I hope it wont have any air pockets. Time for cranking it up and get the coolant circulating.

it might be the direction they are going (higher lug torque values) with the larger diameter wheels, tires, brakes, and HP. I thought it might be a misprint, but it is unlikely that would be the case. It is odd the Edge is higher than the F150 !! Who knows, there might be a factory bulletin out there with lower values ?? lol

1004ron.... are you saying you fill most of it up, then pull a vacuum to get the "burp", then vacuum fill the last little bit? I was wondering if it could be done this way. Seems it would pull the vacuum much faster since there is not much air there anyway. My son needs to do his car too, I think we will tackle his and mine at the same time.

I am sure I will research this again next tire rotation to see if I find anything different. 162 ft-lbs is long ways from 90 or 100 ft-lbs. Here is what Google AI says about an M14 screw: 120–140 Nm (88–103 ft-lbs) for Grade 8.8 to 170–215 Nm (125–158 ft-lbs) for Grade 10.9.

with some of today's engines, there is real possiblility of an air pocket remaining when refilled with coolant. Air that is trapped and can cause an isolated overheat issue. Vacuum refill ensures no air pocket remains. It was recommended to me to do this on a 2006 Focus, which is why I bought the tool. With a 2024 Edge, I don't want to take any chances ($$$$). But yes, up until now all my vehicles were old enough to drain and simply pour in new coolant. BTW, I dont think they worry about the thermostat. All the coolant on the engine side should drain. Maybe a little left over above the thermostat possibly. But I think now the thermostats might have a small bypass opening built in , therfore it should drain above the thermostat too. The only left over coolant after draining might be some in the heater core and the PTU cooler if equipped. Make sense to y'all?

gotter done! tires rotated. The lug nuts came off easy... I would guess the last guy probably used 90-100 ft-lbs. I tightened in 4-5 stages, the last two stages was at 150 ft-lbs and then I turned the handle one more turn...supposedly at 160.... the handle was now off the scale. All done by hand and no impact wrench. The nuts turn very little after 100 ft-lbs and although it was tight, it did not feel too unreasonalble for the m14 thread. The ss clad did not distort any either. I will call it as good enough.

sorry 1004ron, it was enigma-2's link. he mentioned a service manual on ebay but the link he had was an Ebay owner's manual for $60. fishx65....did you vacuum fill the coolant system to get the air out or burp it as the technician called it? I have the vacuum kit, only used it 1 time on a focus. I need to get more comfortable using it.

1004ron, I dont plan on buying a copy of the owners manual. links below are for free online copies. the shop service manual is another beast I would expect $500 for that. But if you look on ebay and type in 2024 ford edge shop manual, some $9.90 versions appear. I would not trust those. I havent looks for haynes or clymer yet. Car is still in warranty so i dont plan on repairing it for a while. I simply wanted to know if to change the coolant , you would simply drain it, and vacuum fill it. no sensors, no resets, no hidden surprises , etc. ?? Not doing the "flush" until 60k miles. here is an interactive copy: https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=9611&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&moidRef=G2154962&Uid=G2169782&ProcUid=G2168697&userMarket=USA&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False&buildtype=web page 346 on this pdf copy https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2024_Ford_Edge_Owners_Manual_version_1_om_EN-US.pdf

your right... the gasket issue should be resolved, but that is a small hole that they drilled. And I feel that any crap or corrosion could fill that hole and block the flow later in life. that is why I decided to do the coolant change every 30k miles instead of 60k. That link you provided is the Ford Edge owners manual.... I have the same... its online for free. I do see some 2024 edge shop manuals in CD form on ebay for about $10 (that dont sound right) and one nearly $500.

I have always used 90-100 on everything else. But I want to do this right. The online owners manual show it as 162 (same as above), and the ford service manager and the parts guy both looked it up and came up with the same number. I cannot believe it should be that tight. my two 1/2" drive torques wrenches only go to 150. I find it hard to believe they made a misprint !

not much to add here...but I am glad I found this post. I have a rattling sound somewhere in the right rear cargo panel just as lasseventies described in the first post. Except mine seems to be at slower speeds and roughness of the road. I will look into the above suggestions and see where it gets me.

hi all, newbie here. I just bought a 2024 Edge, 30k miles, and I want to do a coolant change even though ford doesn't recommend it this early. I have seen in the past where cylinder head gaskets (other make and model) have such small coolant passage holes that they plug up with corrosion over time. I also know about the head gasket issue with the earlier 2.0...the ones that had the slot between the cylinders. And their fix was to replace the groove with tiny hole drilled between the cylinders. Well this seems to me a potential to plug with corrosion over time too just like the head gasket I mentioned above. So at any rate, for my piecs of mind, its every 30k miles for the coolant hange for me... to ward off what I feel could be an issue down the road. my question to you guys, first, does the 2024 have these small holes beween the cylinders? Second, any high mileage 2.0s (with the tiny holes) had any known issues with clogging? I specifically bought the antifreeze from Ford so there is no question I got the right type. Other than the need to "vacuum fill" the coolant system to "burp it", is there anything else I need to be made aware of? I'm old school and quite amazed how cars have changed to the point you really need to know what your are doing before starting work or repair on them. Glad I found this site!