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fh4ever

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  1. Vincent K.... any updates? Ford technician listened to my "clacking noise" today. We have much cooler temps today and the noise had really quietened down. He stated what he heard was normal.
  2. Ok, just finished up my appointment with the ford dealership. In regards to my first concern stated above, the technician went on a test ride swith me. Not many hills here, but we found one "hill" that I was barely able to show him the engine RPM increasing while coasting downhill from a stop (as if the torque converter is locked up). He said "a lot of cars today are like that, perhaps the manufacturers think it is a good idea to not let one's speed get too fast when coasting". I'll take his word for now. The other issue with tranny shuttering at 20-25 mph....well, its in the 60's today and I could not get the shuttering to occur like when the temps were in the 90's. He assured me that I had 5 yrs and 60k miles warranty and if I can prove it is shutting, they will fix it. So I will have to wait til next summer to experience it again. As we were leaving, I told him thanks for his time and he said he had to get back to work and pull two other trannys this afternoon... now that is reassuring !!
  3. Port injectors are normally pretty quiet. I don't know how loud the direct injection injectors are suppose to be. My 2024 does seem noisy to someone who has never had direct injection, and kinda matches the ticking sound and frequency like in vincents video, just not as loud. I dont know how I missed that when I was buying the car. I did not pick up on it until about few months ago when I raised the hood, and it seemed a lot louder then, maybe because it was the fist time hearing it. Vincent... look between the two wiring labels (the top label has K17 on it), there is something that looks like a oil "bubbling" between the intake manifold, head and valve cover. Is that an illusion?
  4. STbeast.... where did you buy it? aftermarket or Ford? I feel the blanket would keep some engine heat off the hood, maybe preserving the paint in the long run. maybe, maybe not?? The hood does look naked without it.
  5. in another post about clattering noise, I did not want to hijack the thread with my own questions. So.... 1004ron... you mentioned in that post "Is this one of the models where Ford did away with the aesthetic / acoustic cover?' I thought this might explain why I dont have an engine cover. But then I assumed you are only joking... you are joking, right? My 2024 does not have one. I do see on mine what looks like cover attachment points. Does it hurt anything to not have it on? Was its purpose to cover up all the ugliness? Mine also does not have any underhood sound deadening insulation. Is it supposed to? It's a 2024 with only 27k miles when I bought it. It is odd both piece are not there.
  6. My 2024 has a similar sounding noise but certainly not near as loud. I can't hear it inside the car, but pop the hood... and it sounds like a noise that not suppose to be there on a newer car. I will try to pin point mine with a sethascope and I will be asking the dealer about it too. I read somewhere the high pressure fuel pump can be noisy like this. my daughter's 2006 focus has a similar noise and intensity and it almost sounds like the intake valves clattering under the valve cover. Turns out the intake manifold runner has some wear and it clatters quite loudly. Seems this was an issue in those early focus's. Do let us know what you find out on yours.
  7. Having heard of the all the horror stories of PTU and diff failures of earlier models, I made them understand that I wanted the oil changed in the tranny, PTU, and rear diff. every 30k miles regardless of the factory recommendations. And, I wanted the dealer to do the work so it was in their records and there would be no question if warranty work was later needed. 1004ron... that article sure shows that 2019 torque converter had an issue. I wonder how similar it is to a 2024. come monday morning, I'm taking it back and demanding they look at it. It is subtle, and the wife doesn't even notice it. but me being a gearhead, I definitley feel it.
  8. 1004ron... I had all fluids changed by the dealer shortly after buying the car at 30k miles. The car still being in warranty is why I went to the dealer to ask about the way the tranny operates. But I felt brushed off by the young technician and I felt I had more mechanical abilities than he did after talking with him. He said something about the only thing he knew of was a "converter" issue, I said torque converter? he said it was inside the transmission and explained it has a planetary gear??? I know the trannys now are sophiticated these days, but I dont see a "converter" having a planetary gear.... doesn't make any sense to me. But the fact that he said "converter", I cant help but think it could be torque converter and it is not uncoupling from a lock up position. That could explain the "engine braking" and no free wheel coasting, and shuddering gear changes at 20-25 mph. Maybe I need to go to another dealer for another opinion. The transmission shop is a good idea too. I live in relatively flat areas so the engine braking is not much of an issue, but the 20-25 mph shudder is still there. We visit relatives in the mountains occasionally and that is where I first experienced the engine braking when it should freewheel and coast downhill.
  9. I have just over 30k miles on my recently purchased of an used 2024 edge 2.0. I have noticed a couple things regarding the transmission. I have noticed if I pull out onto a street that is steep and allow it to coast downhill to get up to speed (without pressing the gas pedal), it seems the torque converter is already locked up. As the car goes downhill faster, the engine rpm increases to a point the tranny shifts into the next gear. The rpm falls back with the gear change, and as the car picks up more speed again, the rpm goes up to a point and again shifts to the next gear. This repeats a few times until 25 or 30 mph is reached. At that speed, its hard to tell if the engine is still holding the car back. My question is, did Ford design the transmission to operate this way? All other automatics I have ever owned have freewheeled going downhill and will go faster and faster without the engine or transmission ever holding the car back. I asked the "very young" service tech at the dealership about this and he said with his 2 years on the job, no one has ever complained about it. My second question... I have noticed in heavy stop and go traffic, there is some tranny shudder around 20-25 mph while barely giving it throttle. Almost as if it it hunting the gear it needs to be in...or as if the torque converter is already locked up not allowing smooth shift. It seems this is more noticeable on the hot summer days in heavy stop and go traffic from stop light to stop light. If you give it more gas and go on and accelearate, I do not notice it. I have also noticed at less than 20 mph speeds, when you let off the gas pedal, the engine is slowing the car down...again as if the torque converter is already locked up. I would expect you could coast to a stop with the engine slowing you down. Anyone elses Edge do the same thing? Todays trannys are so complex, temperamental, and costly that if there is an issue, I want to address it before the warranty expires.
  10. ok, I'm back and been thinking about my recent coolant change. I watched a video where a guy changed his Ford edge coolant in an older model. He drained it and only about 5 quarts came out. He filled with distilled water (did not vacuum fill), ran it and drained it. Then vacuum filled about 5 quarts of premixed. fast forward to yesterday, I drained my 2009 mustang coolant and vacuum filled it, it took about 10 quarts (about double the Edge). This made me recall seeing where the Edge holds about 10.4 quarts. Therefore I only drained about half of the coolant in the system like the guy in the video? Can anyone explain if that is all that comes out of a 10.4 quart system? That half of the coolant remains in the engine? or was there a technique that I missed to get all the coolant out? Its only a 30k mile coolant change so not too worried. I just want to knwo what is going on with this.
  11. ahh you removed the front cover giving you more access. I only removed the large one under the motor/tranny. took it out the road for about mile after about a 10 minute idle. let it cool and level looks good. I think we are in good shape. thanks for your input.
  12. yep, the plain type adapter is what i used. It covers the rectangular hole, even has a flange on the top that rest against the top of the hole. but the best I can figure is, the rubber adpater is not supported at the rectangular hole, and the vacuum pulls it inward sucking air right thru the rectangular hole. I was thinking the conical adapter might seal at the botton of the neck... below the rectangle hole. But I did not try that. Instead, I put tape on the bottom of the tank where that hole exits and the vacuum pulled the tape tight sealing the bottom. I wish I knew about this hole so that I could have fill it with the vacuum first thing. But when I encountered issues and filled the tank manually to reduce volumn and then pulled vacuum, it pulled out some of the coolant. I then used the vacuum to finish filling and the tank was completely full. I had to remove some coolant to get it back to the required level. Just to be sure, I pulled a second vacuum , the fluid came up to the top but not spill over, and releasing the vacuum slowly, the coolant level went back to the max position. So I would say it is completed and air pockets were eliminated. Will know for sure when it is driven to operating temp and coolant level rechecked. 1004RON...does that sound good to you? this is only the second time I used this vacuum tool, the first time on this car. It seems simple enough and I think the next time will be much easier. I did make a tool to remove (turn) the drain valve on the radiator. It makes it much easier to loosen. next time I wont take it all the way off...that was a pain getting it back in the hole. the o-ring had to compress enough to slide in.
  13. help, this coolant change is quickly becoming worth the $$ the dealership wanted to do it for me. First, I did not know how far to turn the drain plug, I only turned it 1/2 turn and it pops out. no problem except it took forever to push it back in (had to overcome the oring) far enough for the thread to grip. So now I am trying to pull a vacuum on it. It is the compressed air type and it pulls a good vacuum while off the car. It appears i have good seals around the adapters on the coolant tank with a nice snug fit. But after 5-10 minutes, the vacuum gage still shows no vacuum. So I decided to manually fill it to eliminate as much air as possible with fluid and I have no leaks. This is an attempt to reduce the amount of air volumn that has to be evacuated. I try to pull a vacuum again. Still no vacuum buildup. Is there something on this car that is allowing air to be sucked in somewhere ? I think I will go ahead and crank it to try to circulate it some and not let it get too warm. and then try pulling another vacuum. Ok update: I found the issue. Inside the coolan tank filler neck is a passage way for over flow to spill out underneath the coolan tank. This passage way goes right thru the tank and exits underneath. The 40mm adapter plug seems to cover this passage, but I assume the plug is flexing under vacuum and drawing air in (through the underside of the tank and up thru the filler neck). So I placed tape over the hole under the tank to plug it and immediately got vacuum. So fingers cross, I hope it wont have any air pockets. Time for cranking it up and get the coolant circulating.
  14. it might be the direction they are going (higher lug torque values) with the larger diameter wheels, tires, brakes, and HP. I thought it might be a misprint, but it is unlikely that would be the case. It is odd the Edge is higher than the F150 !! Who knows, there might be a factory bulletin out there with lower values ?? lol
  15. 1004ron.... are you saying you fill most of it up, then pull a vacuum to get the "burp", then vacuum fill the last little bit? I was wondering if it could be done this way. Seems it would pull the vacuum much faster since there is not much air there anyway. My son needs to do his car too, I think we will tackle his and mine at the same time.
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