k_m

I'm not sure who to blame if theres is even any point in blaming anyone at all. Bottom Line is that the Ford & the Retailers need to improve their lines of communication. I'm sure that auto parts such as Adv Auto, Autozone, Oreilly's, etc... are updated on when new parts are introduced. However, Walmart may not be updated. Lets try to focus on how we can deal with this.... what has worked out well for me is by going to http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2010&m=Ford&mo=Edge#&&/wEXAQUHaGlzdG9yeQUEdHJ1ZbeJQwrDnn1brKWLK+LH7viyyDAr and either typing in oil filter into the search or you can select search by parts number and then you can type in FL500S. This will give you the option to select a dealer near you and you have the option of picking up the filter to avoid any s/h charges. On top of that they usually have the filters at a discounted price. I paid $5.99 after tax for our filter. Hope this helps out

Fantastic writeup! :happy feet: One day I am planning on performing this task and you just made my life much easier! :hyper:

Basically they replaced the seals where the half shaft [axle enters the transmission. the DC Kit-seal is a component of the PTU. So all in all your PTU and its seals were changed. Based on what others are posting.... this may be the last time you have to worry about the issue :happy feet:

Then it may have turned out to be the PTU Seals. Hopefully it doesn't take the full 3 weeks. Most place over exaggerate how long it takes just to be on the safe side.

Anytime! Glad I could Help

JUST FYI the SRX 3.0 [non-turbo] takes regular fuel according to tier manufacturer recommended fuel. Also the interior of the SRX IMO top notch over all manufacturers

1. To Remove the rear door handle bezel: A. Remove the screw cover. B. Remove the screw. C. Remove the rear door handle bezel. D. Disconnect the electrical connector [if equipped] 2. Remove the screw cover. 3. Remove the screw. 4. Remove the 6 trim panel screws. 5. Disengage the bottom of the door trim panel from the door. A. Pull outward to disengage the push nuts from the retainers. 6. Lift the top of the door trim panel edge upward and out of the beltline molding. 7. Pull the lock rod through the lock rod grommet. 8. Remove the rear door trim panel. A. Disconnect the electrical connectors. 9. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Hope this helps

Anytime.. it was nothing... just wanted to help.

One more option.... I combined them into a PDF file so that should be printable. See attachment... :stats: Ford Edge PTU & Seals.pdf

It could have been b/c I uploaded them as .PNG now they are in a more universal image format .jpg See the attached images Let me know if it works and best of luck

The 2 screws are from the ---> Fender Splash Shield. See the attached photo. [basically the shield inside of the tire well] NOTE: You do not have to remove all 8 screws to the Fender Splash Shield. Just the 2 closest to the bumper in the diagram its labeled #1 that way you can have access to the fog lamp. However, theres nothing wrong with removing all 8 screws from the splash shield in order to have more access/convenient

From under the vehicle : 1. Remove the 2 screws and position the fender splash shield aside. 2. Release the tabs and remove the fog lamp bezel. 3. Release the locking tabs and remove the fog lamp. 4. Disconnect the electrical connector. 5. You should be able to remove the Fog light now Hope this helps

I totally understand your position in hoping they diagnose it correctly and getting it fixed the first time around. Sometimes the consumer actually knows more than the service department b/c we are always researching and gathering experience from other Edge owners. Sometimes knowledge helps and encourages the Service department to work harder in getting it right the 1st time around. If the leak is minor sometimes you may not see any drips. However if you were to get under the vehicle and look around you may be able to see residual leaks on or around the PTU or wherever its leaking from. Maybe by showing the images on this post or by asking if the leak is such or such color and which side is the leak coming from they can see that you are proactive and that you did your research/homework on the issue. Hope everything works out well for you :wacko:

Just to clarify, I am NOT trying to prove its the PTU. I was only explaining where its located and what it looks like while also providing tips on how to diagnose/determine if it could be a PTU issue. It appears that you dealer is an honest one and from what you described they seem to be trying to help out. Plus without looking at a vehicle its difficult to say for certain what exactly your are experiencing, hence, the dealer would have a more accurate understanding of whats going on. Good Luck

Just some tips to remember. 1) PTU Leaks From the RH Side - If the leak is red automatic transmission fluid, then the PTU intermediate shaft seal needs replacement #1 from the attached diagram labeled "Intermediate & Cover seals Rt Hand Side". This is inside the bore of the PTU shaft behind the deflector - If the leak is brown/black gear lube, then the PTU larger cover seal part needs replacement #3 from the attached diagram labeled "Intermediate & Cover seals Rt Hand Side". This is located on the PTU cover behind the deflector. 2) PTU Leaks From the LH Side - If the leak is the red automatic transmission fluid, the compression seal needs replacement [#13] also see the other attached diagram breaking the compression seal into sections #1 is the PTU-to-transaxle compression seal (part # 7086) & #2&3 are the Transfer case driver gear seal which are included in the compression seal This is between the PTU and transmission. - If the leak is brown/black, the PTU is overfilled and venting fluid from the top of the PTU. Flush and fill the PTU. So I am not sure exactly what was meant by a double seal but the compression seal could technically be considered a double seal since it includes the Transfer case driver seal Hope this helps put things into better perspective. :shades:

Attached is a diagram of the PTU [its labeled as #12] the compression seal is #13 (part # 7086) [not sure if thats the same seal which leaks or not ]

I believe so, but not entirely sure. I have never removed it, but by the way it looks its only held into the unit by clip hooks. I would be very gentle and try to ease it out. Good Luck

According to our dealer "you only get a loaner car with the extended warranty"

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Agree the Q7 is nice no question about that. However, we would like to put more support into the Domestic manufacturers. I have always been a fan of BMW/Audi and owned both. So now we are giving the Edge a chance and for the most part its great. It just lacks some refinement here and there, but over all its not bad at all. Im am more picky and of course my wife could care less about most of the things which bother me. I have worked on many vehicles so I would be able to determine burning oil from the PTU vs something else. However, you have to remember, you have a 2010 so assuming Ford fixed the issue you will hopefully never have to worry about any leaks. As far as cladding, I would prefer polished aluminum over both clad or real chrome. Climate control does help. I have been in vehicles which had it and those which do not. The ones which do are much more comfortable. We will probably put 100k on the Edge in 2 maybe 3 years [Wife is a physician and she covers several hospitals which are not close at all] and then after 100k we will probably get a new vehicle. Right now the Edge serves its purpose offering top notch safety ratings and other convenient features which help. Before I had time to fix and rebuild everything [which I miss] but as a Dentist starting out and trying to get my own practice up and running I am left with less and less time. So until then we will enjoy the Edge and then hopefully the kinks will get ironed out and the Edge will be a top contender. Mofsteel, you have great views and I think we share pretty much the same opinion. Sync is a nice feature but it is more of a "cool toy" vs true convenience. It messes up several of our contacts names and we end up repeating or just reaching for the phone or browsing through the phone contact list which we synced via BT. Most vehicles w/ BT will allow you to upload your phones contact list and you will be able to brows for whomever you are trying to call via the vehicle. As far as the Fuel you are absolutely correct. The good stuff will take a huge bite into our wallets [thats not being the cheapo...thats being a smart consumer]

Cadillac has had the Pop-Up Nav for a while and no problems so far. Vista roof on the Edge is nice but its already creaking and making all sorts of noise. 20" clad wheels are just plain cheap and degrading, Power Lift gate has been buggy but not too bad. AWD seems to have issues unless the latest fix solves the issues for the Edge. We did pay a bit for other thing such as extended warranty and the Gap insurance. Multi zone climate will be an issue specially for a child and it makes a huge difference. Rear camera is nice but not an necessity. I can see your point, yet if you are truly looking at the Value and which vehicle will hold value better, the SRX wins easily. The only reason we got the Edge is b/c our 325i has well over 200k and is starting to act up. So the Mrs. needed a new vehicle specially since we are expecting very soon. We only had one day to make a decision and finalize a purchase. Normally we would never make such rash decisions. However, time is not a luxury either of us have. Did we make a bad decision...NO... Did we make the best decision...NO. The Edge is a good vehicle, yet, it is unrefined and rough around the "edges" Clad wheels, incomplete memory seats, incomplete climate zone, leather seats which are stain magnets etc... even if we had to pay 10k more I would do so in order to get quality features which are not incomplete. I mean no disrespect. I can and will say this over and over if I have to.... The Edge is nice and I would pick it over many vehicles, just not the SRX. I am not trying to bash the Edge nor sway anyone from buying one. I am purely looking at the Value of things, which will differ from person to person.

Well considering they have the standard 100k warranty (we bought the extended warranty for the Edge) this is the difference I would have received & paid paid for our Edge vs an 2010 SRX SRX Navigation System5 Standard [our dealer didn't have available on their lot] Rearview Camera Standard [not an option for the Edge unless you install it yourself] Cargo Management Syste Standard Front and Rear Ultrasonic Parking Assist Standard [Our edge only has rear] Heated Front Seats Standard Interior Ambient Lighting Standard Wood trim Standard [not an option for the Edge] Aluminum Wheels 20" [NOT CLAD] [not an option for the Edge unless you install it yourself] HID Headlamps with Adaptive Forward Lighting Standard [not an option for the Edge unless you install it yourself] Keyless Access Standard Ventilated Front Seats Standard VEHICLE KEY FEATURES 3.0L V6 PREMIUM (FWD) Horsepower & RPM 265 @ 6950 265 @ 6950 265 @ 6950 265 @ 6950 StabiliTrak Electronic Stability Control System Standard Power Liftgate with Memory Height Standard XM Satellite Radio with 3 trial months6 Standard UltraView Sunroof Standard Bluetooth® Connectivity7 Standard Adaptive Remote Start Standard OnStar® with the Directions & Connections Plan for the first year (includes Turn-by-Turn Navigation)8 Standard Plus they have multi-zone climate control, true memory seats and its more polished. All for $44,720 thats only 4k more than what we paid for our Edge. Now don't get me wrong... I like the Edge, but we had to make a rush decision and at the time Ford was the only dealer open on Sunday and they had the 60 mo no interest. Now I believe the SRX is offering it, but at the time it wasn't an option. If I were to buy a vehicle now I would definitely take the SRX over the Edge hands down

The SRX is not that pricy. If you get an Edge fully loaded it will be basically close if not the same price as the 2010 SRX. A base Edge is cheap but the limited and sports can become very pricy. Plus the SRX is more polished and offers a bit more options.

Sorry to hear that! But for $700 + $250 core charge you could have ordered a set of new aftermarket wheels from many places for about $1300 That way you could keep the ones you have for snow tires.

:hyper: Congrats!