Alex Toader Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 Hey Guys, Figured I'd try this forum before heading to the dealer (there aren't any well reviewed dealers in my area). I went to a mechanic and while getting my serpentine belt replaced my battery died. Not a big deal but now my radio doesn't work when the key is in the on position. The funny thing is that it works in acc AFTER the key was in the start. I tried to unplug the battery, resetting the car alarm (a persuit car alarm system), taking out the fuse for the radio, still same symptoms. It's as if when the car is on, there's no power to the speakers. The radio still turns on and everything looks fine, just no sound from the speakers. When the car is off, it all works out fine. Any idea on what I can try? I'll retry anything again as I'm not getting anywhere yet. My last bet is to just take it to the dealer to have them reflash the radio firmware (if that's a thing). Thanks ahead of time for any help! -Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted October 8, 2016 Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 Try checking fuses 19 and 29. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Toader Posted October 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 (edited) Try checking fuses 19 and 29. They looked okay, I will try and replace them with some spares in the fusebox (the ones listed as spare in manual). Thanks for the suggestion! Edited October 8, 2016 by Alex Toader Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Toader Posted October 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 They looked okay, I will try and replace them with some spares in the fusebox (the ones listed as spare in manual). Thanks for the suggestion! No dice, tried but same behavior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Surmising: the reason the ACM works after the car has run is, it's switched over the the acc connection and continues to operate for the duration of the accessory delay. The problem seems to be getting power through the start/run feed (which is a separate feed). Unfortunately I don't have a 2012 service manual, mine only goes up to 2010. In the 2010, power comes through the Smart Junction Box, fuse #28, then through a GY-VT wire to the ACM (audio control modular or radio for short). So if this still holds for your 2012, ir fault lies either in the SJB (of fuse panel for short) as there's electronics in here which controls this circuit, the wire to the radio (not likely) or the radio itself. Troubleshooting ideas: using an inexpensive 2 volt tester, pull the radio and ampifiler fuses and test the fuse socket (with the switch in the on or run, position.) If the SJB *is* feeding power, it's probably the radio (ACM actually, but you must replace the entire radio to fix). If there is *no power* then it's the SJB fault and one possible fix would be to rewire to a different circuit that's powered only when the car is on (on in the run position). Involves cutting the wire near the SJB and using a 12 volt quick connector, linking to a different conductor (wire). BTW, on the 2010, there are three fuses to the ACM, #28, operate in run, #41 operate in acc & #39 which I have no ida as to what it does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 (edited) Ok, fuse #39 is to the rear window defrost grid. PS (believe this is the keep alive connection) Edited October 12, 2016 by enigma-2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Try a reset. Don't think it will work but shouldn't hurt. Pull fuse 29 and wait 1/2 hour. If radio comes on when you reconnect, let is go for several minutes (can turn down the sound if too loud, but don't change channels, etc. until the reboot is complete). If this doesn't work try a full reset. Make sure the car is on, in Park Press the Phone Button to enter the PHONE MENU Scroll repeatedly until SYSTEM SETTINGS appears in the radio display Press OK to enter the SYSTEM SETTINGS MENU Scroll repeatedly until ADVANCED appears in the radio display. Press OK Scroll repeatedly until MASTER RESET appears in the radio display Press OK. SYNC will ask you to confirm the reset Press OK to confirm. The radio display will read ALL RESET SYNC will take you back to the ADVANCED SETTINGS MENU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Toader Posted October 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2016 (edited) Try a reset. Don't think it will work but shouldn't hurt. Pull fuse 29 and wait 1/2 hour. If radio comes on when you reconnect, let is go for several minutes (can turn down the sound if too loud, but don't change channels, etc. until the reboot is complete). If this doesn't work try a full reset. Make sure the car is on, in Park Press the Phone Button to enter the PHONE MENU Scroll repeatedly until SYSTEM SETTINGS appears in the radio display Press OK to enter the SYSTEM SETTINGS MENU Scroll repeatedly until ADVANCED appears in the radio display. Press OK Scroll repeatedly until MASTER RESET appears in the radio display Press OK. SYNC will ask you to confirm the reset Press OK to confirm. The radio display will read ALL RESET SYNC will take you back to the ADVANCED SETTINGS MENU I will try all of those things but here's a new symptom that might/might not be tied to it. The heat does not heat. When I turn it to hot, it still comes out luke warm to cool. Thanks so much for the advice. I will update as I try those things. I did try the master reset/pull battery thing before but not in that fashion. Buying a volt tester off amazon now! Edited October 15, 2016 by Alex Toader Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Gallion Posted February 8, 2022 Report Share Posted February 8, 2022 Has anyone found a fix for this. This is happening to my 2012 edge. I've done a master reset. No change. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted February 9, 2022 Report Share Posted February 9, 2022 What exactly is it doing? Have you tested for codes? If it's the radio, put it in tbe test mode and check the codes. (To enter test mode, put the radio in AM or FM, press the "right seek" and "eject" buttons at the same time. Hold until it recognizes the request then let go. The radio will go into the speaker all around text. It's loud so be prepared for it. Press "end test" and the radio will go into a mode allowing you to select which test to run on the acu and apim. Exit digonistics will show you what was found.) One other thing to suspect is your battery. Low voltage can cause all kinds of problems. Its not enough to just run a voltage test and say its ok. You must test the battery Cold Cranking Amperes capacity test (CCA). You need a battery that's strong enough to withstand starting without the voltage drop to a too low level. Any battety that tests below 50% of original CCA rating should be replaced. (Even if it still can start the car.) Reason is, the voltage drops too low to support the logic modules and they act like a computer that gets hit by a line spike. Also check for loose or corroded battery terminals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Gallion Posted February 21, 2022 Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 I did the test mode and no sound and nothing was found wrong. Also battery is new and was tested good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted February 22, 2022 Report Share Posted February 22, 2022 Before you head to the dealer, check to see if Sync is working (ties into tbe sound system of the APM). If Sync is out, check the APIM fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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