skynyrdmh Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 Hey all. I posted a short while ago about a programming issue I have been having with my 2007 Edge and the Key/Fob combo. I have tried every programming procedure I could find and even found a Ford Tech willing to try to program via his work laptop.... and nada. Still nothing. This even has him scratching his head. Anywho..... does anyone know how to take these key/fob units apart?? The factory ones I have been finding in the junk yards are glued together. Has anyone tried to open these up without destroying them?? I have seen several ads on Ebay that sellers have used a factory case and replaced the key blade only so I know it can be done. BUT HOW?? Do I need to soak in something?? Would this damage the computer chip for the FOB?? Is there a secret catch you need to trip?? If I can figure this out I can take 2 units, 1 with good security chip and 1 with good FOB board , and make a working Key/Fob unit rather than carrying 2 pieces!! I know this may sound petty and maybe its an OCD thang but now it seems more like a quest!! This whole issue with trying to get a working Key/Fob unit has been a horrendous issue, from the dealer accidently wiping out my computer systems in the car (trying to program a new key) and taking 3 days for a Ford Tech from Ford to fly in and fix, to finding junk yard pieces that program when brand new dealer pieces wont. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candurin Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 Ive never seen one glued together, but have a look here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bashlEcaIw0 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skynyrdmh Posted January 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 Thanx for the response. This isn't exactly what I am talking about. Pulling the back off to replace the battery is just the first part. What I need to do is separate the part that is left, after removing the back/battery cover, that the battery is sitting in from the part that holds the push buttons. When the battery is removed, in the video, if you look in the hole for the battery you can see the computer board for the FOB buttons. That entire black piece with the hole for the battery is a separate piece that holds the key blade itself. Those are the 2 pieces I need to separate. Does this make sense?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candurin Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 (edited) Yup, I misunderstood. If it is conformance coating (relatively clear) the. You can use acetone (nail polish remover). If it is silicon caulk (opaque, thicker application) then grab some vm&p naptha at a hardware store. Just use a q-tip and keep swabbing the adhesive layer. Seems excessive, you sure the correct learning procedure was followed? Does any part of the IKT work? They key nor the fob isnt working? Ive found that there are two learning procedure, one for the PATS key and another for the fob/buttons. Edited January 25, 2018 by candurin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 Just buy a new one off Ebay and have the dealer cut the key (or locksmith). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skynyrdmh Posted January 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 enigma.... been there done that. That's what started this whole mess. Long story short..... dealer wiped all my computer systems trying to program the new key. They had my car for 3 days until a Ford Tech could be brought in to figure out what happened. Re-flashed all the systems and then tried to program the key/fob. Got the key to work but not the fob. replaced the FOB board twice.... doesn't work. Dealer claims there is something wrong within the computer system of the car that it wont accept the FOB. Move ahead a week or so.... we find a key in the junk yard. Obviously it wont work but my son has a brilliant idea.... just try the FOB part. Low and behold.... IT PROGRAMS AND WORKS. so now I try the key the dealer programmed. Car starts right up and runs but when you try to program the FOB.... every time you hit a button the horn blows....will not program. Have tried this with several FOBs and nada. I have found 3 ways that suggest programming (1 is dealer) the FOB and none of them work on the new Key/FOB unit. Fast forward.... I have a key that starts the car but FOB doesn't/wont work. I have a junk yard FOB that works but the key blade has been ripped out that does work. My attempt is to combine these 2 pieces to make 1 good working Key/FOB. Like I said.... this has now become a quest!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candurin Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 For shits and giggles, try this procedure for the fob: Procedure : 1.Close all doors, then open drivers door and press the Unlock button on drivers door while it is open, insert key into ignition. 2.Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 8 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming mode. (if the door locks do not cycle, then it was done incorrectly. You must start over by removing key and beginning from step 1) (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.) 3.Within 10 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. If you only have one remote then skip to step 5. 4.Within 10 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 4. for all other remotes. 5.Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 enigma.... been there done that. That's what started this whole mess. Long story short..... dealer wiped all my computer systems trying to program the new key. They had my car for 3 days until a Ford Tech could be brought in to figure out what happened. Re-flashed all the systems and then tried to program the key/fob. Got the key to work but not the fob. replaced the FOB board twice.... doesn't work. Dealer claims there is something wrong within the computer system of the car that it wont accept the FOB. Move ahead a week or so.... we find a key in the junk yard. Obviously it wont work but my son has a brilliant idea.... just try the FOB part. Low and behold.... IT PROGRAMS AND WORKS. so now I try the key the dealer programmed. Car starts right up and runs but when you try to program the FOB.... every time you hit a button the horn blows....will not program. Have tried this with several FOBs and nada. I have found 3 ways that suggest programming (1 is dealer) the FOB and none of them work on the new Key/FOB unit. Fast forward.... I have a key that starts the car but FOB doesn't/wont work. I have a junk yard FOB that works but the key blade has been ripped out that does work. My attempt is to combine these 2 pieces to make 1 good working Key/FOB. Like I said.... this has now become a quest!! Don't know, but I believe there are different FOB's that look the same, bUT only one it the right one for your car. Perhaps the dealer use the wrong software choice and bonked the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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