skynyrdmh

Hey everyone, I need a little info here. I am not with this Edge and I am trying to get everything together so after work I will be heading to it to fix it but need info to get stuff ready. It is a 2007 edge and the battery cable that goes from the positive battery terminal to the fuse block by the driver side shock tower is the issue. This cable was hacked before the current owner bought the car and needed replaced. well now it has broke in half so I need to replace it. What I need to know is the length of this cable, gauge of this cable, what connector is used to connect it to the fuse block (its an eye connector on battery cable side), and the nut size to connect it to the battery positive terminal (the threaded stud is there but no bolt. I did a quick search on the internet but cannot find the answers. Only thing I can find is the complete cabling setup BUT... oddly enough it doesnt include this particular cable. Any help, info, pictures, whatever is greatly appreciated. Currently this Edge is in the middle of nowhere between the road and a empty farmers field!! With the provided info I can make a cable and take with me to change.

Hello all. An issue with the battery light on my 2007 edge has recently occurred. I am hoping to find an answer before I begin to throw expensive parts at it!! I am no stranger to mechanics by any means but this has me scratchin my head. On several occasions now the battery light will glow with no issues seemingly going on at all. If I shut the car off and immediately restart... no light and runs as it should, but a week later... same issue arises. I do know the battery light will glow for 2 reasons.... 1 alternator not charging or voltage regulator failing and alternator is over charging. I did some checking and found that at idle the alternator is pushing between 13.4 and 14.9 volts. It seems to hold steady but last night when I checked again, because light came on, it did spike for a blink of an eye to 16+ volts but then dropped right back down. I contributed this to maybe I moved and cause a little spark action. Anyway, while under the hood I noticed a little smoke coming from the battery cables!! I felt them and the positive cable was blistering hot!! I mean really... you couldnt hold it without a rag!! In fear that I may melt down my entire wiring harness I disconnected the battery. after cool down I hooked up the battery again and no issues what so ever. Even running radio, lights, using windows, seats... nothing. All as it should be. Started the car up and no issues. Runs like a top. After a few minutes I see a little puff of smoke and the cables are blistering hot again. Starter is not hanging up, alternator checked out at 13.7-14.7 volts again. no weird noises. Nothing. Has anyone run into this issue?? What did you find?? Tonight if the rain and storms hold off I am going to try to trace the cables to make sure they are not grounding out against anything and that the connections are ll tight. Other than that I am kinda ata loss. If all looks good I guess I will start with a new alternator. I hate to do it without knowing for sure but...... Any help/insight will be greatly appreciated.

Hello all.... simple question.... Does anyone know the size of the inner tie rods on a 2007-2014 Edge SEL?? NON-AWD. At first glance it appears to be about a 32mm wrench size. Gettin ready to replace all 4 tie rods and trying to get things ready.

I actually replaced mine with a set from Detroit Axle. Fit perfect and no issues so far.

Sounds like the same problem I had. Drove me nuts for a minute. Turned out to be the rubber bushing/grommet pieces on the sliders of the brake caliper. Not sure of all years they ran these, maybe still do, but on my 2007, 2008, and 2010 they do.

Update; Got a deal on a verified 60k mile engine from California. For the cost to fix the mine... it was cheaper to replace the engine. And time saved too. Engine was delivered yesterday. New seals for trans and crank arrived, as well as new plugs and other maintenance parts. Since I am dropping the engine out I might as well replace all those future leakers!! Oh the fun is coming soon!!

Just an update... received all my parts quickly and were cheaper than local dealers. All were ford OEM parts. Pretty sure I will be shopping there again in the future.

apparently he hasn't been very active as of late. his PM box is full and cant accept any more messages.

Not sure who Benny is but I would like to find out. Especially if it can save me a little headaches and money!!

Anyone had any experience with these folks?? It appears they sell all OEM Ford parts and are pretty cheap compared to local dealers. I will be replacing my engine so was looking for maintenance parts since I will have it torn apart. On most gaskets and seals they seam to be $5 or more cheaper than local or even Amazon. Thoughts?? Recommendations other than the above for OEM Motorcraft/Ford parts??

Well it happened. The bulletproof 3.5 just blew a head gasket. Still runs smooth but gets hot after about 5 min of running and yup the dreaded *mix* of coolant/oil in the oil pan. Just happed out of the blue. I do not have the time to fix myself as I have way to many irons in the fire right now. Including a new bathroom remodel I am in the middle of, my daughters wedding that's happening in December, etc. Anyone in the Columbus area know of a good/fair/reliable mechanic I can turn to, to get this job done?? I am also curious if anyone else has gone through this and what is a ballpark charge?? Or is it even worth it and maybe just look for a used engine?? Thanx all.

Not looking to *cover* the lens. What I am actually looking for is ones that have a smoked look to them and not the lens. Imagine the chrome back being a black or smoked chrome. I know a couple manufacturers have lingered around here...... maybe one of them will see this and get to scratchin their head??

Enigma.... the subject line was correct. I found one on a fresh yard placement. And in the exact color!! The color match made it easy for respray. I just fixed all the little dents, dings, scratches and re-sprayed the edge and it looks awesome!! Now I am in search of smoked headlights. Not looking for the *blackouts* but just the smoked ones. If anyone has any ideas they wanna share... I am all ears...or eyes in this case. I have plans for all the chrome as well

anyone have a good one for a 2007?? Close enough to pick up would be nice.

Almost ordered a new hood from them buit after reading some reviews and y'alls experiences.... Think I will look elsewhere.

Hey gang, trying to touch all bases here. Getting ready to do a complete makeover on the 2008 SEL. I am looking for a OEM hood. Mine has a couple rust holes in the lower lip. This is the only rust on the whole car. Instead of fixing I think I will just replace. Anyone have or know of a good hood replacement at a good price?? I have dealt with aftermarket panels before and they fit just like aftermarket panels. Looking for OEM or OEM equivalent for replacement. For anyone who may have one from a wrecked Edge or whatever... I am in Columbus Ohio area. I will pickup if not to far away other than that shipping would be to 43231.

Hey all, I have been reading a bit in here and all I am really finding is info on replacement bulbs. I am looking to replace the entire light assembly on my 2007 SEL. I just updated the leaking tail lights with the smoked *Drive Bright LED* tail lights.... Thanx elricfate they look awesome!! Need to look for Cyclops light upgrade to match now. Now the headlight assemblies are clouded over so instead of trying to fix..... I think I will just *upgrade* so they will have the *fresher* look like the tail does now. Color is dark grey so a smoked darker light is what I am looking for. I am thinking like a smoked chrome look as I am thinking to smoke chrome the grill to match... Please, any and all... share your thoughts/ideas/what you have done/ pics, etc.

elricfate..... where are you located?? N. Columbus here.

Hey all. Ran out to the car wash yesterday to do a good scrub on 2 of the Edge's, and noticed the hood is rusting on the 2007. Right on the very front lip on top of the grill. Its rusted through but not to the paint yet so it still looks good. Since I will end up putting a new hood on it, I was wondering if the MKX hood would bolt/fit/latch right on?? From what I have seen the MKX hood isn't as flat and looks a little sportier to me. And at first look they look almost identical shape and mounting. Has anyone tried this??

curious as to why you bought the whole control arms??

Hey guys... just wanna say thanks for the input. None of the programming directions worked. I ended up doing what I set out to do and all is good now. I actually took 2 junk yard FOB's apart and a key blade from unit I bought and put them all back together again. I now have a Key/FOB unit that works like it should. I have heard since that when it comes to these keys and Fobs I had the information wrong?? I heard that you can have as many keys that start the car as you want BUT you can only have 4 working FOBs to lock and unlock the vehicle. I had always thought it was the other way around. Maybe this is the issue I am having and the dealer didn't erase all the FOB's in the computer?? Thoughts??

enigma.... been there done that. That's what started this whole mess. Long story short..... dealer wiped all my computer systems trying to program the new key. They had my car for 3 days until a Ford Tech could be brought in to figure out what happened. Re-flashed all the systems and then tried to program the key/fob. Got the key to work but not the fob. replaced the FOB board twice.... doesn't work. Dealer claims there is something wrong within the computer system of the car that it wont accept the FOB. Move ahead a week or so.... we find a key in the junk yard. Obviously it wont work but my son has a brilliant idea.... just try the FOB part. Low and behold.... IT PROGRAMS AND WORKS. so now I try the key the dealer programmed. Car starts right up and runs but when you try to program the FOB.... every time you hit a button the horn blows....will not program. Have tried this with several FOBs and nada. I have found 3 ways that suggest programming (1 is dealer) the FOB and none of them work on the new Key/FOB unit. Fast forward.... I have a key that starts the car but FOB doesn't/wont work. I have a junk yard FOB that works but the key blade has been ripped out that does work. My attempt is to combine these 2 pieces to make 1 good working Key/FOB. Like I said.... this has now become a quest!!

Thanx for the response. This isn't exactly what I am talking about. Pulling the back off to replace the battery is just the first part. What I need to do is separate the part that is left, after removing the back/battery cover, that the battery is sitting in from the part that holds the push buttons. When the battery is removed, in the video, if you look in the hole for the battery you can see the computer board for the FOB buttons. That entire black piece with the hole for the battery is a separate piece that holds the key blade itself. Those are the 2 pieces I need to separate. Does this make sense??

Hey all. I posted a short while ago about a programming issue I have been having with my 2007 Edge and the Key/Fob combo. I have tried every programming procedure I could find and even found a Ford Tech willing to try to program via his work laptop.... and nada. Still nothing. This even has him scratching his head. Anywho..... does anyone know how to take these key/fob units apart?? The factory ones I have been finding in the junk yards are glued together. Has anyone tried to open these up without destroying them?? I have seen several ads on Ebay that sellers have used a factory case and replaced the key blade only so I know it can be done. BUT HOW?? Do I need to soak in something?? Would this damage the computer chip for the FOB?? Is there a secret catch you need to trip?? If I can figure this out I can take 2 units, 1 with good security chip and 1 with good FOB board , and make a working Key/Fob unit rather than carrying 2 pieces!! I know this may sound petty and maybe its an OCD thang but now it seems more like a quest!! This whole issue with trying to get a working Key/Fob unit has been a horrendous issue, from the dealer accidently wiping out my computer systems in the car (trying to program a new key) and taking 3 days for a Ford Tech from Ford to fly in and fix, to finding junk yard pieces that program when brand new dealer pieces wont.

Hey all, ok here is the situation. When I bought my third Ford Edge (2007), all I got with it was the integrated key. So on my adventure to get a Key/FOB combo has been just that, an adventure!! But I digress on that story. Fast forward to current date...... I have a brand new Ford Key/FOB (r-8070). The blade is cut and works flawlessly. The security chip is programmed and I can start the car with no issues. The problem is the FOB part. I tried, several times, to do the switch turn 8 times to program the FOB but it does not work. When I do attempt it... turn the key 8 times leave switch on and the locks cycle....hit ANY button on the FOB and the horn blows with every press of any button. BUT the FOB does not lock or unlock the doors. I picked up 2 other broken FOB from an old junkers from a yard just to test and lo and behold 1 works and 1 blows the horn when buttons are pushed. Has anyone had this issue and can you please share what you have found?? I am totally confused. All batteries are good and I even took the FOBs to AutoZone to test with their FOB checker....all is good and broadcasting signal. I thought about changing out circuit boards but the working boards wont fit into the working key case. That's my luck!!