2.7l Edge Sport oil pressure issue

[Samurai Edge]

8 hours ago, Cossie said:

@garychrist

 

Two positioning pins would need to be welded on, and small threads would have to be cut into the weld points on the original plastic suction pipe to allow it to be pressed down and secured. The plastic ribs within the plastic sump are sealed off, effectively using what look like plastic plugs.

Many thanks for calculating the dimensions; I’ve taken some photos, though I don’t own a set of calipers, and my flexible ruler has rounded edges.

 

<<Furthermore, I don’t believe the original plastic suction pipe can be separated from the oil pan.<<

You would have to cut off the connecting studs to remove the cover, but reattaching it to the aluminum oil pan would be a real piece of custom fabrication work.
For now, I’ll keep driving the car as is throughout the winter; when the oil change comes around in 2027, I’ll have to come up with a solution with my mechanic.
Due to the way they were manufactured, all EDGE models equipped with this aluminum oil pan—and whose owners want to (or are permitted to) drive at high speeds—are affected.

 

 

All the work required by someone who knows what they are doing would not be cheap.  Then, hopefully, there would be zero leaks but it would be something you need to be aware of as a possibility.

This is custom work and the new installed, fabricated baffle would have to be test fitted to ensure there is proper clearance.

  -  This is where trial and error come in.  Been there.  Done That.

  -  On a different vehicle years ago, I had an oil starvation problem on high speed turns.  I had the oil pan modified with extra side baffles and an extension to keep the oil down in the pan.

 

To me, unless there is a failure of the plastic pan,  AND  if a proper OTS aluminum pan existed, only then would I consider such a plan.

 

If the only issue is a leaky gasket, I would just properly replace the gasket.

 

Unless, of course, your plan is to race the vehicle, then we are talking a different situation.

[omar302]

25 minutes ago, Samurai Edge said:

If the only issue is a leaky gasket, I would just properly replace the gasket.

 

The issue used to be because the original pan and even several OEM updated versions depended on RTV gaskets that required extensive cleaning from possible contaminants and long cure/drying time that would eventually leak. Making an official fix unreliable. 

Ford later did come up with a Oil Pan with a press in gasket (instead of the RTV), so the official (latest) fix should be a good one with no need to look aftermarket, in my opinion. 

 

The fix differs between  model years, for the 2015-2017 models is under TSB 24-2345 (link to details). 

Edited 16 hours ago by omar302

[Samurai Edge]

Extensive cleaning is the norm when it comes to gaskets.  I remember when they used to use a shellac as a sealant for the gasket on metal pans or anything else under the hood where two parts needed to be joined.  If you wanted the new gasket to seal correctly, it was a pain getting the old shellac off.

 

Most likely repeated leaks after service was due to the Tech, or the individual, not properly cleaning the area before re-sealing.  It takes effort.  Not a 5-minute job.

 

When both are available, I use both a gasket and an RTV sealant.  A gasket helps to prevent over tightening the pan bolts and squeezing out all the sealant.

When no gasket is available ( or also with a gasket ) I have found the Perma-Tex Gray sealant to work really well with oil, or other liquids, like coolant.  You just have to let the sealant cure enough to a " semi-solid " (?) before merging two pieces together.