Started my subwoofer install this weekend

[22CarbGrayElite]

Finally got started on the install today.  Going in is a Kicker 10” down firing sub box, an AudioControl Epic 500 amp and an AudioControl LC2i LOC.  This sub was going to used in my previous vehicle but that never came to fruition, so I am going to use it in the Edge.  So far, I have tapped the stock subwoofer wires for signal and ran them to the spare tire area.  I also ran the 4 gauge power wire from under the hood to the cabin.  My initial plan was to mount the amplifier and LOC under the cargo floor panel, but after receiving the goodies from Crutchfield and glancing under the front seat, I decided to mount the amp and LOC under the front seat.  They will get plenty of air flow and it will make tuning the stuff easier.  The seat will not interfere or come into contact with the components or wiring.

Edited August 9 by 22CarbGrayElite
Hit send too quickly

[22CarbGrayElite]

Today I mounted the amp and LOC under the seat.  I bought a piece of plexiglass from Lowe’s and cut it slightly larger than the amp.  I then put it under the carpet and screwed the amp down to it.  I screwed the LOC down to the plastic cover that covers the seat control module.  I fished the amp power wire under the carpet and it is ready to be cut and hooked up.  At this point, I am ready to ground the amp, hook the power wire, hook up the sub speaker wires and hook the signal and RCA cables up.  Since I am using two AudioControl components, they included a power wire harness with the amp along with an imbedded one amp fuse, to power the LOC, simplifying the install.  All I have to decide is whether to let the amp automatically sense the signal and turn on both components or run a remote turn on wire.  Pics in the next post showing progress and hopefully to help someone else planning to do an install.

[22CarbGrayElite]

Power wire run… Don’t know how some did this without removing the battery.  Took 10 minutes to remove the battery and it gives full access to the grommet, although the brake fluid distribution block does sit somewhat in front of it.  I poked a long screwdriver through the divot and then taped a 12 gauge wire to my 4 gauge wire and pulled in through from the engine side into the cabin.

 

 

[22CarbGrayElite]

The Kicker sub, 48CVTDF102, 10” CompVT sub rated at 350 watts RMS @ 2 Ohms.  This was originally bought to go in my Acadia as it fit perfectly between the second row captains chairs on the floor.  That install never happened and the sub sat brand new on the shelf, until now.

 

 

 

Edited August 10 by 22CarbGrayElite

[22CarbGrayElite]

The AudioControl Epic500 amp, which will feed the sub 350 watts RMS @ 2 Ohms, and the LC2i line out converter…

 

[22CarbGrayElite]

Amplifier installation wiring is a KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 gauge OFC power and ground kit along with a set of short Klarity RCA cables, a mini ANL fuse holder and 12 gauge speaker cable.  They also include 20’ of remote wire.  KnuKonceptz has been at the amplifier and speaker wire game for a long time and has a stellar reputation for reliability.  Their amp wiring kits are significantly cheaper than Crutchfield’s offerings as well.  I also have the Metra ANC bypass cable as well.  I haven’t hooked that up yet as I want to see what the AudioControl LC2i can do with its Accubass settings.  
 

Hopefully I can finish this install next weekend and get it dialed in.  

[edjunior]

Nice man!

[enigma-2]

Just seen your post, otherwise I would have spoken up sooner.

 

This may be a mistake. 

 

Taken from page 192 of a 2022 owners manual:

 

WARNING: Vehicle modifications involving braking system, aftermarket roof racks, suspension, steering system, tire construction and wheel and tire size may change the handling characteristics of your vehicle and may adversely affect the performance of the electronic stability control system. In addition, installing any stereo loudspeakers may interfere with and adversely affect the electronic stability control system. Install any aftermarket stereo loudspeaker as far as possible from the front center console, the tunnel, and the front seats in order to minimize the risk of interfering with the electronic stability control sensors. Reducing the effectiveness of the electronic stability control system could lead to an increased risk of loss of vehicle control, vehicle rollover, personal injury and death.

[22CarbGrayElite]

On 8/13/2026 at 4:23 PM, enigma-2 said:

Just seen your post, otherwise I would have spoken up sooner.

 

This may be a mistake. 

 

Taken from page 192 of a 2022 owners manual:

 

WARNING: Vehicle modifications involving braking system, aftermarket roof racks, suspension, steering system, tire construction and wheel and tire size may change the handling characteristics of your vehicle and may adversely affect the performance of the electronic stability control system. In addition, installing any stereo loudspeakers may interfere with and adversely affect the electronic stability control system. Install any aftermarket stereo loudspeaker as far as possible from the front center console, the tunnel, and the front seats in order to minimize the risk of interfering with the electronic stability control sensors. Reducing the effectiveness of the electronic stability control system could lead to an increased risk of loss of vehicle control, vehicle rollover, personal injury and death.

If the amp and LOC prove to be an issue, I will move them to the cargo area.  I have installed amps under the seats of a 2014 Impala I once owned and never had any problems.  We shall see, good to know regardless.

[22CarbGrayElite]

Made a little more progress today, but I had a set back that prevented me from finishing.

 

As some of you may know, the fuse panel under the dash is in a miserable spot and accessing it is a PITA.  There are three major wire harnesses attached to it.  Well, in my efforts to check and test for switched and constant power, I managed to loosen the latch lock to the middle harness and my issues eventually began.  The key fobs stopped working, the car went into battery protection mode, the car wouldn’t go into accessory mode or power on/engine off mode, let alone start.  I was beside myself.  I had to call my daughter to come get me and go get my battery charger and scan tool.  After doing my due diligence, I called a knowledgeable friend who walked me through a couple of things, one of which was checking a certain fuse in the panel, and that was when I discovered the loose connector.  The scan tool told me communication was lost to the BCM and the push to start button was stuck ON.  Couple that with everything else, and no flashers or horn, it was frustrating.  I snapped that connector back it and secured it and everything came back to life like it should.

 

Note to anyone going into that fuse panel under the dash… be mindful of those harnesses and double check they are secured properly before you call a tow truck.

 

I have signal wires hooked up, the power harness for the LOC ready to be plugged in, and power, ground and remote for the amp ready to be cut to size and plugged in.  Sub wires are also ran and ready to be plugged.  Last is the amp fuse.  Realistically, this is an hour or two of work and it will be running.  Hopefully there will be no more set backs or being pulled away to do something else and. It being able to get back to it.