oakjefferson Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Hello, I recently purchased the Curt Class III hitch, as per the overwhelming recommendation from members of this site. I'm having my mechanic install it next week and was wondering if I need to purchase anything additional for wiring. I tired looking through some of the relevant posts on here but couldn't find a direct response. I have a 2008 Edge w/o (Obviously) the towing package. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Hello, I recently purchased the Curt Class III hitch, as per the overwhelming recommendation from members of this site. I'm having my mechanic install it next week and was wondering if I need to purchase anything additional for wiring. I tired looking through some of the relevant posts on here but couldn't find a direct response. I have a 2008 Edge w/o (Obviously) the towing package. Thanks in advance! there is a good amount on wiring harnesses here. here is one you will need a harness kit, just a matter of what wiring harness kit you get.. Ford, T-One look back in that thread you posted in on the hitches and start at post #23, that talks about the t-one and there are actual installs here about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakjefferson Posted July 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2009 Thanks Lex, I apprecaite the coordinates. I was just looking in the box and noticed there weren't even any bolts or instructions. I'm sure my mechanic will be fine without the instruction but isn't this thing supposed to come with additional parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakjefferson Posted July 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2009 Lex, you really seem to know what you're talking about so I'm going to order the T-one kit you had in that post. Is this something that is more "plug and play" then "splice away"? I'm a little concerned about my warranty and lease return thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted July 20, 2009 Report Share Posted July 20, 2009 Lex, you really seem to know what you're talking about so I'm going to order the T-one kit you had in that post. Is this something that is more "plug and play" then "splice away"? I'm a little concerned about my warranty and lease return thanks well, I have not done that t-one kit as I only haul bikes BUT it is the kit I will do for sure if I have to install a kit. There are install instructions floating around on the web - like on the sites you can buy the t-one from - I even thought there was a link here to them in one of the hitch threads (??). either way, it is the one, when I researched, I knew I would go for. IIRC, "plug and play" is kind of true. you do have to splice, but they use the push splice easy connectors and you have to run a wire up the battery to gain power to the control box. It has been a bit since I did the research, but the t-one is a solid choice and there really is no other kit/way to make it any easier. not sure if that helps. as for warranty.. I would not sweat that since I own it. If I was leasing, well you can remove both the curt hitch and the wiring kit really. both are not permanent mods. you could remove both and likely never know they were there IF you had to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakjefferson Posted July 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2009 as for warranty.. I would not sweat that since I own it. If I was leasing, well you can remove both the curt hitch and the wiring kit really. both are not permanent mods. you could remove both and likely never know they were there IF you had to. perfect! good news all around today on my towing situation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted July 20, 2009 Report Share Posted July 20, 2009 perfect! good news all around today on my towing situation it it were me, I would likely remove the hitch and sell it - since it is bolt on for Curt - at the time the lease ends when you return it, but I would likely leave the wiring as that could be more of a PITA to unwire and frankly, it is hidden enough it could be made to be not even visible since all you 'could' see would be the pigtail and maybe - depending on wiring skill - the power wiring coming into the engine bay. for the t-one cost, that might not be worth salvaging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justhoppy Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 I just got done installing the Curt Hitch and wire harness. A couple of things to keep in mind about installing the hitch is that you have to drill two holes and trim down your exhaust heat shields. Also two of the bolts holding the heat shields on are not reinstalled when you install the hitch, so if you are having someone else install the hitch for you ask them to save the bolts for you. The hitch install took me about 1.5 hours by myself. If you did not get instructions (mine were missing) go to etrailer.com and they have them available to print out. The wire harness was pretty much straight forward, the hardest/most time consuming part is running the wire to the battery, here is a video of the install. http://www.etrailer.com/tv-wiring-install-...-ford-edge.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deledge Posted November 4, 2009 Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 (edited) Hey guys. Just wanted to let anyone that may be interested know that the 13060 Curt Hitch does fit on the 2010 model Edge. I took my sweet time and it took me two hours. It is no biggie at all. Tomorrow or maybe later will be the lighting harness. If anyone at Curt moniters the forum, nice product. Chris 11/11/09 Update installed the Draw-Tite lights that I got from Realtruck. It took two hours at a leisurly pace. The one thing that I know saved me a bunch of time was that I did not go to the battery for a source of power. I know this has been discussed on the forum, but I only use this thing a few times a year and figured the worst thing I could do was blow some fuses, so I tapped into the cigarette lighter in the back. I have done two 50 trips and have had no issues. Probably the hardest thing to do is build up the nerve to just yank the panels off of the side of the cargo area (I only have 2,000 miles on it), but that is the only way and they snap back into place with no rattles. Speaking of putting things back together, to get the back panels off you need to unscrew a cargo hook at the top of the panel. I found it much easier to take that screw out entirely to ease putting the panel back into place. PS - watch the video that is mentioned in another post. Edited November 11, 2009 by deledge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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