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Receiver Hitch Project


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post-9640-127630028895_thumb.jpgpost-9640-127630029693_thumb.jpgpost-9640-12763003084_thumb.jpgpost-9640-127630031772_thumb.jpgpost-9640-127630032785_thumb.jpgpost-9640-127630033893_thumb.jpgpost-9640-127630034632_thumb.jpgpost-9640-12763003742_thumb.jpgpost-9640-1276300383_thumb.jpgpost-9640-127630039538_thumb.jpgpost-9640-127630040928_thumb.jpgpost-9640-127630042204_thumb.jpgpost-9640-127630043503_thumb.jpgpost-9640-12763004486_thumb.jpg I first want to say I didn't think this up. I got it from Hidden Hitches web sight. Also we wont tow but 2 times a year 1,500 lbs max. Our Edge didn't come with a receiver so we needed to add one. I knew I didn't want the receiver sticking out all the time for something getting used 2 times a year. I liked the clean look of the back of the Edge. So I bought the cheapest claasIII receiver I could find beings I'm going to cut it up anyways. Its a Valley brand that I got off Amazon for something like 125 shipped.

The pic's speak for them self. I cut the receiver off and remounted it to the back side pointing down. It took me about 2 hours to cut it off theses things aren't meant to come apart lol. When I rewedded it I did add a few brace's and also an Anti-Rattler. I did also add a Curt wiring kit but I put the pig tail where the spare tire is and when we need it I'll just run it out the back hatch/door.The only thing I have left to do is make the hitch.

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interesting. wish I could weld.

 

you can totally run the pigtail down into the wheel well and out the bottom and then just velcro it up like I did until needed. I would never want that clump of wires coming out the hatch given it will endlessly rub on the paint as it dangles down.

 

I may do that with the pigtail, I havent looked to closely at it. I like that idea batter.

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  • 1 year later...

Love this so much I just started to cut a hitch apart to make my own version!! One question for you though. how did you take care of the central bumper hold down that mounts to the underside of the floor boards right where the hitch ends up?

 

THANKS hope mine looks just as good when finnished.

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It's been a wile. But one of the time when I was test fitting I just pushed the strap up and marked a new hole. I just used a self taping screw. Most aftermarket hitchs just say to ignore the strap" just tuck it up" but if you do that that bumper flaps in the wind. So I just tucked it up but mounted also.

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[Thanks but i am all set with the pics. I spent this week after work cutting apart the new hitch. first time I spent over $100 just to cut it apart ha ha. Looks good so far got it cut apart and rewelded very similar to you version. Left out the anti rattle (live in the NE would only rot solid by next summer) and i can deal with some wobble. Will post pics this week before undercoating it. I think I will be rhino lining it due to the nasty weather here and the bare metal. Hope it all goes well on install need it by mid July. Does help I have a full garage and lifts at my disposal, props to you for doing it on the ground!

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When I first was going to do it I wasn't going at add the anti rattle clamp. But I'm %100 glad I did. You'll be amazed at how much noise travels threw the car with it rattling around. If you did anything different then the way I did I'd sure like to see some pics. Also I did find the pics I was looking for.

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  • 1 month later...

Great info...hoping to have friend help me out with this. But I do have a general question. I was searching around for more info and found this link at etrailer: http://www.etrailer.com/question-12168.html It states that for the Valley you need to drill an access hole but for the hidden Hitch you do not. They even have a video of the install. But what I fail to understand is why you can't do the same thing for the Valley. If both kits require you to fish your hardware into position what difference would it make if I did it from the end of the channel or drilled a hole closer to where they go? Does anyone have any insight on this? Is it just because Hidden Hitch provides a better setup to pull the bolts through?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good news bad news. You can follow the instructions for the Draw Tite 75526 to install the cheaper Valley 82162 but there is one big problem. The cans hit the hitch! I did verify the part number on the hitch is correct so I don't know if it is an issue with 2011 Edge's but I would have thought Ford left the exhaust the same since the engine was not changed or the chassis. Unfortunately it isn't even close, I probably need another 1/2" on both sides to clear the cans. But I am not sure if that would even provide enough clearance to not hear clunking. I contacted Amazon to let them know their fitment isn't correct and they are working with me but to be honest I don't think I want to deal with the clunking, even if occasional, for a few bucks back. I was hoping to do the mod above but not sure now...will keep you posted on what I find.

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Good news bad news. You can follow the instructions for the Draw Tite 75526 to install the cheaper Valley 82162 but there is one big problem. The cans hit the hitch! I did verify the part number on the hitch is correct so I don't know if it is an issue with 2011 Edge's but I would have thought Ford left the exhaust the same since the engine was not changed or the chassis. Unfortunately it isn't even close, I probably need another 1/2" on both sides to clear the cans. But I am not sure if that would even provide enough clearance to not hear clunking. I contacted Amazon to let them know their fitment isn't correct and they are working with me but to be honest I don't think I want to deal with the clunking, even if occasional, for a few bucks back. I was hoping to do the mod above but not sure now...will keep you posted on what I find.

sounds like a good excuse for swapping out the mufflers to a smaller aftermarket version. Maybe you can have some rumble instead of clunking...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well looking back at this I wish I did more homework. If you look at the last picture in the first post you will see a picture of the older style exhaust cans. These cans were stamped and welded having their widest part below the hitch. The newer exhaust has a rolled and crimped design so they have the same width top to bottom and this is where the interference comes from. I now have a Curt 13067 on order which clearly shows the newer style cans in their instructions so I am hoping for the best.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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