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Of course you can BUT . . .. Adding new fluid to " top off " the old fluid does extend the use of the old fluid to some amount, but does not equal actually replacing the old fluid with fresh fluid What do you do when the fluid level of the PTU is FULL and you can't add any new gear oil? Unless you have evidence that the PTU is leaking, there is no need to add fluid. If the PTU fluid has been in there at least 20K miles, then you need to change it out completely. Forget the fact the manual says the PTU fluid is good for 30K miles. Go with that if you wish but at 20K miles, mine was a dirty, dark brown fluid. You have to remember that the PTU is sandwiched between the transmission, engine and exhaust systems. That is a pretty hostile environment, adding to the fact the amount of PTU fluid is small. And, there is no need to pull the PTU to drain the old fluid. You can literally use a vacuum unit designed for fluid removal to vacuum ( suck ) all the PTU fluid out and then pump all new fluid into the PTU for the refill. That is what I did and it works easily with zero mess.

It was her sisters, who died unexpectedly. So mostly a sentiment hesitancy.

Thank you. I've tried another reset (after trying at least three different instructions that didn't work). Pressing Power, Defrost (front), and Off at the same time resulted in horizontal segments at the beginning and two 88s displayed at the temperature values at the end, supposedly meaning a successful reset with no error codes. We'll see.

You do not need access to OASIS to find any recalls or TSBs related to your vehicle. A simple internet search for 2020 Ford Edge ST TSBs and safety recalls will provide you with that list. As to which TSBs / safety recalls have been performed on your particular vehicle, you may not be able to get that answer simply because if they were performed, the dealer most likely never documented them. That was my personal experience when I checked these for my car and discussed them with my former dealer.. TIP: If you compile a complete list of TSBs / safety recalls on your car, and you take that list to your dealer, don't be surprised if you piss them off. According to my former Ford dealer, they do not have to perform any TSBs UNLESS your car is actively having an issue related to a specific TSB. Safety recalls are different and they have to perform safety recalls. As far as the 2020 Ford Edge ST, I have found zero safety recalls that affect my car. I just noticed you are in Poland. Maybe you have better dealers there than in the U.S.

● You check your tire pressure. ● You check your transmission fluid level. ● You check your coolant level. ● You check your power steering fluid level. ● You check your brake fluid level. ● You check your oil level. ● You check your engine air filter. ● You check your cabin filter. ● You check your seat filter. ● You check your exterior. lights to verify everything's working. ...... What are you forgetting? ....... What's the one thing you should be checking but haven't since .... ???? •• Tire pressure of the spare tire, hidden away in the trunk. 🚗....

Well my question would be, why do you still have it? It seems like it's been nothing but trouble and a money pit. Is there any reason you are keeping it?

I took it to a mechanic who replaced two fuses (which I could not reach myself) and that fixed the interior lighting problem. Thanks for the help.

We inherited an SEL with the dual automatic HVAC a little over a year ago. The typical lousy heat, much worse on the driver's side. From what I've been told, the last owner would typically start the car and let it run about ten minutes before driving it in the winter. And (thankfully), the ridiculous engine-out water pump and why not the timing chain repair was done about two years ago. Since we've had the car, I've only managed to improve the interior heat to merely disappointing. It does have front seat heaters (SEL package?) and they do work but she doesn't want to use them. Naturally. Chronologically: Replaced the cabin filter. Needed replacing but not plugged or overly dirty. Drained coolant, disconnected the heater core hoses at the thermostat housing. Blew thru one end, with the other end draining thru a cone paint filter. A small amount of debris. I assume if I can easily blow thru the open core with 60+ year old lungs, it's not even partially plugged. Three cycles of distilled water via vacuum fill, run, drain thru a cone paint filter. Added a quart of Motorcraft VC-1 coolant flush with distilled water via vacuum refilling. Ran it for about an hour, drained again thru a cone paint filter. Even less debris recovered. Total amount of loose, coolant-colored calcium looking stuff: maybe the size of a gumball. Installed a new Motorcraft thermostat with the jiggle valve at 12:00. Vacuum-refilled with new Motorcraft coolant. Took for a test drive, seemed slightly better. Before and after this much, the car has always warmed up correctly via the dash panel gauge and doesn't overheat either. No coolant leaks. Reservoir stays at filled max level. No steam in the exhaust after warming up. Still not really acceptable to the Better Half. Removed left and right blend door actuators and replaced both with new Motorcraft. Cracked open the replaced drivers' side actuator: no broken teeth, no real wear or damage on the wiper/contacts. The driver side linkage moved by hand easily with the actuator removed. Both new actuators move when changing the temperature settings. Though I would love to see video or pictures of the blend door linkages at each end of their correct full travel. Pulled the kick panel HVAC fuse, ran the car for a bit, reinstalled the fuse. and no real change. Also never any glitches or drop-outs or lack of response from the HVAC controls. Did the system control reset thing several times but I think it only returned an 88 once. Clear, official instructions for resetting this generation of the automatic dual zone system with Sync seem hard to come by. The temps delivered by the car are about the same in both Dual on and off modes, at least from the drivers' experiences. The car has never directed air flow to the wrong locations when changing the controls. The drivers' mode actuator does move. Looks near impossible to change anyway. Cycling the recirculation button results in the air door opening and closing. Also checked the key on engine off supply voltage to the in-car temp sensor: ~4.8V. Checked resistance across the disconnected sensor: fell within the range for the given ambient temp listed in the FSM chart. Good, as that part which was near impossible to find online is listed as no longer available. Temp aspirator tube is fully connected with no splits. Also cleaned off the temp sensor before re-installation. The displayed outdoor temperature on the control panel does seem to match the actual exterior temps. Typical March: hot and cold weather. AC also seems merely barely okay but hadn't tested during triple digits yet. Would like to have it recovered, the fill valve(s) replaced, and recharged to specs but nothing to do with poor heat I assume. Still not really accepted by the Better Half; can't blame her. Not a big fan of this car. At all. What have I missed?

Sorry to hear about the family loss that led to your ownership of the Edge. I don't have any specific fault finding to suggest but have not seen the lack of cabin heating reported here, which leads me to believe that there's a solution to your problem, just need to identify what that is.

New battery and still no auto stop/start, 70,83,96 degree weather, sunny, rainy, cloudy, stop/go traffic and highway to city with +70% charge and nada until one day I hit the steering wheel left stick and disabled lane keeping system, boom auto stop/start began working, so I tested over several weeks and every driving condition and when lane keeping was engaged, no auto start stop, when off, it engages…. Could this because lane keeping system is draining battery charge or on a 2023 Edge ST too many resources, like a/c, AirPlay etc with lane keeping system on, is not allowing proper battery charge in warmer weather climate? I’ve had lane keeping system off now for 6 weeks and no further issues BMS was reset once after new battery was installed but prior to lane keeping system being turned off accidentally

Ambient Lighting The ambient lighting subsystem consists of the BCM, and the Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) located within the floor console, front and rear door panels, instrument panel and front and rear footwell areas. The ambient lighting is operational when the ignition is in any state other than OFF (the exception is when it is used in conjunction with the illuminated entry/exit features), the headlamps are on and the outside ambient light level is low. The BCM provides the voltage to the ambient lighting system, while the touchscreen ( FDIM) is used to cycle through the different color variations or turn the ambient lighting feature on or off. A LIN circuit is routed from the BCM to all of the Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs). There are 3 Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) (red, blue and green) housed within each LED assembly. By illuminating various color combinations, the Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) are able to produce different colors of ambient light. The APIM uses software to monitor the user interface from the touchscreen. Based on the ambient lighting system selections made using the touchscreen, the APIM sends ambient light color request and ambient light intensity request messages over the communication network for color and brightness settings. The BCM retains the last color and brightness setting between uses. For 2021+ the factory option is single color Ice Blue.

Yes, I am able to.

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some help from anyone with OASIS access to pull a report for my Edge ST. I’m trying to verify the vehicle's service history (repairs/replacements) and check for any outstanding recalls or TSBs. I am particularly interested in any updates regarding the TCM (Transmission Control Module) or PCM. (shit 2>3 problem) Vehicle Data (from FORScan): VIN: 2FMPK4AP8LBA92260 Model: 2020 Ford Edge ST Engine: 2.7L EcoBoost V6 Current PCM Strategy: K2GA-14C204-GFE PCM Calibration Level: K2GA-12A650-GFE Mileage: ~91,200 km (approx. 56,700 miles) I would greatly appreciate it if someone could provide a printout or a summary of what’s in the system. If there’s a small fee for your time/trouble, please let me know via PM. Thanks in advance for the help!

I'd have to go back and check, but I recall the TSB's aren't mandatory whereas the safety recalls are. NHTSA vehicle safety recalls are mandatory, not voluntary, if a defect poses an unreasonable safety risk or fails to meet federal standards Check for Recalls: Vehicle, Car Seat, Tire, Equipment | NHTSA

You can unplug the DPFE and test drive. This may tell you the concern is in the EGR system. BTW, usually will not set a code if it's at fault.

I know this is a long post but please take the time if you have it. Thank You Part One, Friends vehicle had intermittent charge system warning light. On inspection noticed junk positive terminal and replaced. Part Two, Few months later friend informed me that vehicle had to be started with a jump pack and shut down electric loads on the system to get him home. Part three, The PRELIMINARY repair steps. A. removed battery from the vehicle full charge and test reviled good battery. B. drove vehicle 10 miles to my place to start diagnostic. C. I consulted with my alternator expert and supplier about this alternator and we discussed possible issues and parts availability. Because I did not have the alternator in hand we could not pinpoint the regulator possibly needed. Being old school in some respects I removed alternator to get it on the test bench without any other tests on vehicle. (I have been burnt by hairline cracks and bad solder joints inside alternators before and always inspect them. D. I cracked the case for my own curiosity and nothing seemed problematic with visual inspection. I took it to the alternator shop and it was determined to be a good unit. E. Alternator installed and no problems for several minutes / miles. them it acted up. The HARD CORE diagnosis begins. A. Hooked the the unit up to a proper scanner and monitored GENCOM and GENMON everything looked good scanner reported no issues or faults. I am no good with multiple numbers flashing on the screen that are an attempted to describe a wave form (this is a problem with me not the equipment or information delivery technique) I hooked up the oscilloscope to the GENCOM and GENMON and got proper wave forms. GENMON showed consistent frequency PWM and GENCOM showed consistant frequency PWM bursts when load characteristics changed. We also reset the BMS. So scanner shows no codes, no circuit faults and the wave forms look good! B. Believing that we had fallen victim to plug corrosion or seating I happily took out for a test drive monitoring the voltage with a simple OBD code reader. Everything was good till it stopped charging and threw warnings. C. The next day I hooked my bench top analogue scope to the scope to the GENCOM and GENMON using 10x probes in order not to affect the circuit I was measuring. (I only have access to the multi thousand dollar scanner during limited times by the grace of the auto mechanics school in my area.) Again the wave forms were excellent but I got lucky enough that I could force the system to fail with time and heavy load. (turned on AC and brights at idle). At this point one wave form flat lined on the rail (full on no PWM) and the other just chopped at %50 percent duty cycle and maybe 1 volt. In this abusive loading situation I would not expect the alternator to stop charging I would expect the alternator to give all it could and throw a battery light. And the fact is that it stops charging during driving RPMs as well. D. So this is a intermittent issue. I hooked the vehicle up to a high quality scanner and ran a system health check and it implied a P0620-00 GEN CONTROL error without the PCM actually throwing the code. With this information I ran the ShopKeyPro Pinpoint TestC: DTC P0620 which led me through the point to point wiring harness tests faults to ground and faults to Voltage tests. Shorted the GENMON and GENCOM and tested that there duty cycle stayed within %5 (this was a clever test) Used an actual bulb test light to make sure Vref could handle current at the alternator plug. Also per test instructions wiggled, pulled and poked all connections. Could not get this thing to give a bad reading. what a way to spend a Friday night. DTC E. My shop time was over for the week. I drove the Edge back to my place it erred out on the way so we had not gotten lucky by re seating the connections (PCM and Alternator) The next day I procured a different factory Ford / Mitsubishi alternator from a Ford edge so no voltage regulator incompatibility problems, installed it. I only started the car long enough to make sure it was charging. So here I am Sunday morning about to go see if it is fixed. If It is not I don't know where to go except change out PCM and that means new car as this one is not worth it. I'd hate to give that advice when I am simply missing something. Thank you Jeremy

I'm just an irregular guy in Kentucky. I am into most things technical. A friend has me working on his 2014 3.5L Edge and it is really smashing my interest together. auto mechanics / motor control / electronics / computer repair / discrete automation / grease monkey attitude / educated and educator attitude / and heck ignorance too. (that is why I am seeking the forums assistance.) Jeremy

Just got updated as well new Updated SYNC to build 25213 Revision 1981

Sync updated today. Module updated was APIM 25.2.0.16.1

You can change the temperature and fan speed with the steering wheel switch

I want to get IPC climate control working

I got it working. I also had to change 726-45-01 to xxx-x3xx-xxx. I ended up using power from the 12 volt outlet in the car. The cupholder lights come on when the headlights come on. However, they say on if you then turn the headlights off until you shut off the car. I also can't dim them or turn them off using the sync screen. Can you control your cupholder lights from the screen?

Exactly. You put into words just what I was thinking.

The info button - which showed the album, genre, file name, and folder of a song - when playing music on a USB drive is gone in this update, right? I can no longer find it. A downgrade. Now only the artist, title, and album/single sleeve show.

Just received update 6.14.0 Updated SYNC to build 24058 Revision 1197.

if driving all day only gets the battery to 70%, i'd be checking alternator current output. and crank on every single power hungry accessory immediately after start up while watching the output, see if it hits a threshold below its actual spec. otherwise its possible the battery is just tired.

It is another part of the Alexa update.