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Wanting to spend a few hundred dollars wisely? Drive through the poor section of your town and drop 30 $10 dollar bills out the window or, pick an Angel off the Christmas Tree @ the mall. Watch the video before you spend your hard earned $$$$!

New control arm was delivered this afternoon and its installed. Examining the old control arm bushes and ball-joint I'd say its in perfect serviceable condition. The job is a real challenge and my advice is don't tackle this on your own in your garage - at least have a friend work with you and better still have a shop lift. The bolts were SUPER tight - had to use a makeshift extension to my long breaker bar. It is really difficult to get the bushes engaged and the ball joint. The drive shaft popped out and spilt a little more than half a quart - I just let it dribble into an oil pan while I manipulated the control arm into place. Tomorrow I'll take it for a drive to get the tans temps up and then top up the fluid - not expecting any change to the shimmy shake, but if it has resolved it I'll be very happy. Now I'm thinking possibly the strut bearing?

Just recently, I went to open the shade for my sunroof (2019 Edge ST) and near the end of travel, it sounded like gears stripping, etc. I just took it in to the local Ford dealer (Stillwell Ford in Hillsdale, MI) and they gave me an estimate of $1800 (OUCH!) I declined obviously, so I wanted to ask if that is a known issue and maybe get pointed to some repair it yourself videos. I am capable, having been a mechanic/engineer for over fifty years. Thanks very much. (Love the car, lament that I got the panaorama roof) RPG

I was able to to finalize it last weekend. Each radar must be connected to MS can, power and gnd. Indicator led pins are in mirror connectors. Activation in IPC and door modules. Works perfectly.

I've bought them from eBay and had no issues with them. With the later models such as yours the vehicle will auto-learn the new sensors and their location after a few miles - you can also get a $10 trigger device and put your vehicle in learn mode and trigger each wheel. 4X Tire Pressure Sensor OEM F2GZ1A189AB I've also bought from Amazon with no issues. TPMS Tire Pressure Sensors 315MHz

New original equipment tires, Pirelli installed on Monday at Costco - no change in the shimmy shake, but significantly quieter than the Bridgestone that were on.

Recently occasionally when I back out my garage then turn the wheel full lock to the right to move down my driveway I've heard and felt a soft knock on the left front. I have all my wrenching life avoiding the use of the "Parts Cannon", but that's about to change. I suspected the left lower control arm bushes or ball joint so a couple of days ago I took a closer look at them, also used a pry bar to see if I could invoke some movement, but none - the inspection method used is flawed in that the control arm is in a taught position with the suspension fully extended. I've ordered a new Fomoco control arm for $213 delivered, that might arrive in time for installation this weekend or it'll be the next weekend.

He cracks me up with the props - good information there - something I have long suspected now backed up with data.

Long story short... airbag light came on 3 weeks ago, then the battery died within 2 days. It was an old battery so I bought a new one and dropped it in, and did the 5x headlights 3x brake 'trick' to reset things, assuming that was sufficient. This week, the airbag light came on again, but this time, the new battery died yesterday. I jumped it, ran it for quite some time. I hadn't bothered to check codes before this, so I grabbed my OBD2 cable & started up Forscan. There were a number of codes, but only one present at the time of request. I figure the others came up due to the battery dying. So I reset the DTCs and just one code continues to come up: U0413 Invalid Data Received from Battery Energy Control Module 'B' (from the RCM) It seems like the BECM 'B' is busted and drawing current when the vehicle is off, because... I also used Forscan to check the Battery State of Charge last night, and it was 99%. 8 hours later: 70%. I ran the vehicle for about an hour or so and it was back up in the 90s. I searched U0413 and found one other thread on this forum, but that person also had a bunch of other errors and their issue seemed to be the RCM itself. The BECM 'B' module looks to be PN HU5T-14G490-AF or HU5T-14G490-0C and it's like $70 new or $35 if I take the eBay plunge. So, the questions I have for the other owners here, are... Do you think my BECM 'B' is the root cause? Or is it failing because of something else (like a short? ugh... I hope it's not a short...) Where is the BECM 'B' located, exactly? I'm cool with tearing some things apart to get to it, but I don't know where to find it... Is the BECM 'B' a plug & play / drop & replace type of part, or does it need very specific programming for my specific make/model/VIN/etc.? Since the RCM is shooting the BECM 'B' communication error, should I be worried about the RCM/airbags/SRS? Am I stuck with needing to take this to a dealer? Thanks in advance for any suggestions or insight!

Congrats. From the same dealer and with the same maintenance package serviced by them?

Took the Edge in, dealer admitted to over filling the transmission and cleaned all parts covered in tranny fluid, had the oil changed and wipers changed out also, then I traded it in Saturday for an Explorer.

The free flow air filters obviously allow more damaging particulate to pass through which is the most significant factor for me, but many are misled by the claims of increased power. There are other components that dictate the maximum air the engine can ingest.

I posted here back in January. A handful of us have chatted within here, on other FB groups etc. Something we all reported on was it was more apparent on consuming when the vehicle was idling or remote started. I did 3 rounds of oil consumption tests paid for by the dealer. I noticed that the one time the vehicle lost half a quart, within a 1000 mile span. Otherwise everything was in spec on oil consumption. After tons of analysis and paying attention to when sometime the blue/white smoke is visible I noticed when the vehicle idles for say 30 mins. I can drive parking lot speeds and get some nice smoke, the smoke doesn't linger to bad, and is certainly not thick or alarming. I believe its a turbo pooling the oil then burning it. Why it's so intermittent I couldn't tell you. I reduced my idling and remote starts and haven't noticed the issue. Removed the catch-can just in case, no change, replaced the PCV valve, no change. I've ruled out the easy things, a TSB exists for a turbo oil supply line for f150, been considering replacing my line but havent looked deep into it to see if the part changed at all for the Edge

I think there have been discussions of paddle shifters working in D on this forum somewhere, but still, I agree that Ford likes to make things more complicated and obscure than you would expect for a car manufacturer of this size.

If you have the liquid cooled ptu you can remove the nuts and pry the cooler way from the ptu about 1/2 inch and drain the fluid. If you have the non-cooled ptu you could remove the cap where the cooler would be.

I would offer two possibilities. As you suspected, one very real possibility could be that the plastic valve cover is cracked, or the sealant has failed, creating an oil leak that drips into the spark plug wells. Another, (and more common possibility) is that oil was spilled during a past oil change and pooled in the spark plug well.

From the 2020 Edge Workshop Manual... Telematics Control Unit (TCU) Module The TCU connects the vehicle to a cellular network. It contains a non-serviceable internal SIM card. The TCU requires PMI when it is replaced. TCU Antenna The TCU antenna is used is used to boost reception for incoming and outgoing cellular network data. It is a compact, cellular phone type, planar inverted-F antenna. TCU Antenna Cable Routing Good luck!

Final update, hopefully (knock on wood), I got to pick up my Edge yesterday and the new engine sounds great and does not produce the original sound. Drove it a bit yesterday to "break in" the new engine some and just enjoy driving it again. This morning it started without any issues ? Mechanic recommends an oil change within the next 500-1k miles to allow lookover and ensure break in period is good. Is this usually such a short drive needed before the first oil change?

This guy makes it look pretty easy without a lift and makes me want to tackle this job myself. Sorry Mac, he made it look easier then your vid:):):)

It's the final drive ratio. A 3.39 final drive is intended specifically to make the car feel like it has more zip. The downside is that it burns more fuel.