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I believe your assumptions are incorrect. The IAT isn't sensitive to fouling. These days an MAP has taken the place of the MAF - the MAP is way less sensitive to fouling compared to the MAF and its very rare that it requires cleaning. My 2017 2.7L has 123K miles on it and its never needed carbon removal. .

I had EBC's on my focus years ago, geez 20 years ago at this point 🙃, & I wasn't too impressed with them. I found Centric when I did the SVT brake conversion & have been loyal ever since. When I converted back to stock before selling the focus, I missed a driveway entrance as I was so used to bigger brakes of the SVT conversion. I really miss that car sometimes, but it was never engineered to last through northern winters 😢

The coolant intrusion issue was supposedly fixed for the 2019 model year for the Edge. I think most of the issues with the transmission are related to the 6F35 (harsh shifting, flex plate breaking) which was last used in 2018 in the Edge. While the 2019+ engine does have some new things (the EGR cooler), the 8 speed transmission has been around since 2019 (in the Edge, since 2017 in some other vehicles) and I haven't seen any trends of high failure rates or issues. I personally bought a 2019 at the end of its powertain warranty and felt good not opting for the extended warranty that was over 10% of the purchase price. It already suffered the EGR cooler failure, the PCM update done and the cooler replaced.

Just ordered a Turbosmart 1.5/twin scroll 2.7 Kompact EM BOV VR2 50/50 to replace the stock BPV. Anyone have a 50/50 BOV you can comment on, so far as where you noticed a difference other than the 'PSSSH' sound factor? Maybe less lag on initial acceleration, better throttle response between shifts, smoother power over the power band? I'd much appreciate your comments.

Better than expected results. 2020-year model ... 26K miles with Livernois 93 octane tune, NGK colder plugs. Very noticeable difference from stock. Ironically, I sprayed a can of CRC Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner through the intake. It threw three SES codes. So, I sprayed CRC MAF Cleaner on the IAT sensor, which looked a 'little' dirty. Kept looking for the MAF, however, no luck finding it. Come to find out, the IAT and MAF sensors are one-in-the-same. The sensor performs both functions, which I thought was very unusual. After cleaning the afore-mentioned sensor, I cleared the codes with the Livernois tuner and the engine woke up in a very big way. With only 26K on the vehicle (2.7 Gen 1), thought there would be hardly any carbon buildup. I was wrong. Very impressed after spraying the CRC cleaner through the intake and the MAF cleaner across the IAT/MAF sensor wires. The lack of port injectors must really cause a LOT of carbon buildup on the Gen 1 Ecoboost engines. This thing is a different animal now.

It was very common on mid 2000 to 2010 legacy cars, my 2000 Grand Marquis had a MAF and an IAT separate, but 2003 it was IAT attached to the MAF sensor module. But on a vehicle without a MAF? Or anything not legacy?

1004ron - thank you for your response. As for the map sensors, I can confirm the AI search below having 2 map sensors is correct. I located both of them on my engine by their FoMoCo part numbers. As for the integrated IAT/MAF sensor performing different functions within the same assembly, I respectively believe my original post is correct. See attached picture ... just disregard the CRC cleaner I sprayed on my hand. I'm too old to get cancer from it before I bite the farm... lol! 'The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor and Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor are not the same component but are commonly integrated into a single assembly on many modern vehicles, particularly Fords (like the DS7A-12A697-AA part). The MAF measures the amount of air, while the IAT measures the temperature.' it ... lol! before I eat the farm

I have moved my vehicles to Akebono - good grip and very low dust, or could say no dust. Right now I've got the best Autozone carries because I found the issue during my CV axle replacement. On my BMW K1600 motorcycle I use EBC - they're the best for the bike but make a lot of dust.

Important update. With ample friction material left, the pads de-laminated.

2020 2.7 EcoBoost (GEN 1) owner here. Just an introduction. Hoping to fit in with everyone here. Left TN in 1979 and landed in FL in 1999 after 20 years in the US Army. Headed to the Edge/MKX/Nautilus forum to post now. Feel free to head over to my first post to see what I did to my vehicle ... not much, but, it's a start on a journey for power.

Good callout on the stop/start accumulator. The solenoid on mine wasn't loose, but the seals on the solenoid pooped the bed and puked fluid in my driveway. Easy to replace yourself.

Hello all, hopefully the experts can help me here. I have a new to me 2013 Edge 3.5 AWD SEL standard key ignition Sync 2 audio/nav. Sitting in the car, key in the ignition, start the car as normal, key returns to RUN position, Sync module lit up, everything appears to function normally, no audio from any audio source. Move the key back to ACC position, car shuts off, radio and all other source audio returns, move key to OFF position, audio continues to function normally. Remove key from ignition, re-insert, audio cuts off until key is moved to RUN position and then back to ACC or OFF, car does not need to be started for audio to return. I currently do not have any codes in the APIM or ACM. At the advice of an audio guy I met, at one time I had codes in the APIM, B1215:00-28, U016A:00-28, U0184:00-28, he recommended ACM replacement, I did that, no luck. I did a clear codes and on demand self-test with Forscan, currently no codes in the APIM or ACM, but I've also not driven the car much, so I don't know if there is needed drive cycles to bring any codes back. Any help with this is appreciated. Start issues, in trying to trouble shoot the no audio condition, The key insertion leading to the audio cutting out, led me to believe there could possibly be a short in the ignition switch. So, I went after that, as I was opening up the dash to get to the switch, I noticed I was not the first one in there. I pulled the switch out and found an added wire spliced from pin 7 of the ignition switch, IGNITION/START circuit, ran directly out through the firewall and underneath the under hood fuse block. I flopped the fuse block over, that wire is tied directly to a wire that used to be tied to one of the main pins of the start circuit relay, they cut the wire just below the underside of the fuse block and spliced the car side to the wire coming from under the dash. I've tried connecting it back as it's supposed to be, car will not start until its wired back to the jumper wire. I don't entirely know if the 2 situations are tied together, or just separate issues. The audio I believe is somehow tied to the PCM wakeup circuit, through testing I determine key insertion activates a pin in the switch that leads to BCM fuse 18, Keypad illumination, Brake shift interlock, Start button LED, Passive anti-theft system, Powertrain control module wake-up, Second row power enable, the fuse has been tested and is good. The no start unless hot wired condition, I'm kind of at a loss on. I did another on demand self test of all the modules in the car today, in the BCM I found 2 codes that hadn't previously been there, C0040:12, C1D00:11, those come back to brake light switches best I can tell. I had already swapped the main brake light switch with a known good one and that didn't seem to make a change. So not sure where those codes came from. If anyone has any suggestions on where to look, or what to troubleshoot, or what to get into, please let me know. I purchased this car for my parents as theirs is falling apart, so I'm going through this one trying to work out all the kinks so I can get it to them. Any help is appreciated and gladly willing to pay for meaningful conversation and advice. I know it's my first post here, but I've been on different forums for years, been wrenching 40 years, I'm pretty handy, but sometimes these electronics get me, And I despise parts changers and chasing blindly down paths that lead nowhere, so some pointers on where to look or test next, please send them along. Thank you. Jim

NGK 6 is hotter than NGK 7. NGK.com: Heat Range Conversion Chart

Bought it new. 2019 Ford Edge SEL. So far so good, haven't had any problems. But only have 28,323 miles on it so far.