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Also, as far as I know, the oil life monitor also takes into account time with the maximum time being 12 months. So if you change the oil as suggested above at 50%, you would be more certainly changing the oil at no more than 5,000 mile or 6 months from when it was last reset. Or you can interpolate the interval you want, knowing that 100% means 10k miles or 12 months. For example, 60% oil life balance would mean 4k miles or 4.8 months.

@m4rioo: Ford OASIS info for your Edge's VIN confirms 315 MHz... VIN-based TPMS sensor search from Ford's online parts-selling site... Radio frequency interference can negatively impact TPM systems, per the 2022-2024 Edge Workshop Manual, included below and more fully covered in the attached PDF documents... Placing your device cursor over underlined acronyms may yield popup full-words descriptions of the acronyms. Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) RFI can be caused by: Video equipment has been found to cause RFI especially when the video and power supply lines are near the TPMS . Anti-theft alarms (even those installed by the dealership) have been found to create enough RFI to cause the TPMS to malfunction or lose considerable range. These anti-theft alarms can be difficult to locate, as they are usually hidden somewhere out of the way for reduced accessibility. Many in-vehicle cell phone chargers have been found to cause considerable RFI . The vehicles with the power point closest to the RTM are the most affected. It must be noted that most cell phone chargers do not produce high levels of RFI all the time. This depends on the state of charge of the cell phone battery. The phone battery must be almost completely discharged in some cases. Power supplies and DC / AC inverters typically create a lot of RFI . Most consumer grade equipment has very little filtering or shielding. Using Hit Rate Parameter Identifiers (PIDs) to Determine the Presence of RFI If an intermittent RFI issue is suspected, the information contained in the last 5 TPMS warning event Parameter Identifiers (PIDs) can be combined with specific Parameter Identifiers (PIDs) from the BCM to determine which TPMS sensors are being affected and if a RFI source is currently present in the vehicle. The BCM module contains Parameter Identifiers (PIDs) used to keep track of the number of TPMS messages received from the 4 trained TPMS sensors. These Parameter Identifiers (PIDs) can provide insight on the performance of the TPMS , and can help establish the presence of an Frequency Interference (RFI) source. TPM_HITS_LF (Tire Pressure Monitor Hit Rate Left Front) – The number of TPMS messages received by the BCM module from the LH front sensor TPM_HITS_RF (Tire Pressure Monitor Hit Rate Right Front) – The number of TPMS messages received by the BCM module from the RH front sensor. TPM_HITS_LRO (Tire Pressure Monitor Hit Rate Left Rear Outer) – The number of TPMS messages received by the BCM module from the LH rear sensor TPM_HITS_RRO (Tire Pressure Monitor Hit Rate Right Rear Outer) – The number of TPMS messages received by the BCM module from the RH rear sensor. Method for determining if a RFI issue has been affecting the TPMS : Collect the last 5 TPMS events and determine if they were due to system faults or low tire air pressure. Collect the TPMS Hit Rate PID counters and compare them to the last 5 TPMS events. If the TPMS Hit Rate PID counters are significantly different from each other or if the locations with lower hit rate values show up as fault locations in last 5 TPMS events and BCM DTC B124D:02 (Tire Pressure Sensor: General Signal Failure) is present, an intermittent RFI source is most likely preventing the signals from these TPMS sensors from reaching the BCM . An intermittent RFI source can also be the case when all 4 TPMS sensors show up in the last 5 fault events and BCM DTC B1182:00 (Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS): No Sub Type Information) is present. The possible cause would a strong source of RFI noise. Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Modules In some cases the RFI may actually be caused by a module or ground on the vehicle. Depending on the severity of the concern, a dirty ground, improperly built ground shield or module can disable the system. Modules that have microcontrollers using clock circuits to create timing pulses for the microprocessor may radiate RFI . Using Customer Electronics to Pinpoint RFI This method can be a way to determine the cause of a concern before the sensors and module are replaced with little or no effect on system performance. Discuss with the customer what types of devices they were using when the event occurred. Determine which power points are being used and, if necessary, ask the devices be activated to determine their affect on the TPMS . Options for Eliminating Intermittent TPMS Operation Caused by RFI If an Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) component or customer device is causing a RFI concern, replace the device. If a phone charger is causing a RFI concern, the customer should consult with their cell phone provider to acquire a different battery charger. If a device such as a dealer installed anti-theft alarm is causing a RFI concern, move the device to another location in the vehicle. In the case of a portable device move the power cord to another power point location. In summary, if the RFI source is present and cannot be moved or replaced, the intermittent concern remains. The TPMS must accept the unwanted system operation the RFI can cause. Good luck! Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) - System Operation and Component Description - 2022-2024 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) - Diagnosis and Testing - 2022-2024 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

Sounds dramatic doesn't it.! In my over 60 years of owning vehicles, including 5 or 6 Ford products, I have learned many things....especially about FORD products. I've loved everyone I've owned, mostly for their drive-ability. I like the handling, the performance, style, and comfort of all of them. I've owned two Edges. The most recent was a 2019 SEL. My first, in a very long time, 4 banger. I think that the Turbo made all the difference. I enjoyed driving that car. I decided that since my age was getting up there, I would really maintain that car. I was very motivated to keep it a long time. Much so that I had the transmission fluid changed at 89,000 miles. That was a $500 maintenance item. Also a new battery about a year ago. Lastly, new tires six months ago. Here is where the story changes...at least for me (us). In the past, I've had issues with one Ford over Wheel Bearings. Seemed to be the rage back then. I believe it was an Explorer. Then was the Expedition. LOVED that vehicle. But it seemed to always have an issue. Not huge, just some little thing going wrong. Then one of my first Edges. That one was actually relatively trouble free. Just the 'normal' things happening. Now, this last one. The one that I just traded. The one where I put new tires, battery, and TRANSMISSION into. Yup, the one that I kept serviced to the 9s! At 89,000 miles the transmission went out!! The mighty 8 speed transmission, kaput!. $7000 to replace it! Fortunately, I had bought an extended warranty from ROUTE 66, through my credit union. I say fortunately, because when I bought the car at my "LOCAL" Ford dealer, they offered my any one of three extended warranties. FORD, CHRYSLER, AND ZURICK. All of these were just too expensive. So, when it came time for the transmission issue, I went back to my purchasing dealer. THEY REFUSED(at first), TO TAKE THE ROUTE66 policy. They eventually agreed to take it, but it was TO LATE!! I took it to another dealer who had no trouble taking the Route66 warranty! So, after buying something like 5 vehicles, in 20 years, at the "local" dealer, our relationship ended! I was also pissed that the vehicle that I maintained so well, was starting to nickle and dime me to death!! The transmission was just not acting right (the replacement did have a 3yr, unlimited mileage warranty). I just did not want to deal with it anymore. Also, the windshield washer decided to act wounded. I researched how to change it out ($70), or have it done, ($180hr plus the part). Research showed me that the inner fender had to be removed for access!. Then the rear power hatch or door or whatever it's called, would every so often get a mind of it's own. I probably was looking at it wrong but it just was thinking of becoming a problem. All this was very frustrating......BUT, the real kicker........Whenever we went to our local Hardee's for breakfast, I had to back on the far side of the parking lot!! Yup, something would affect the wireless gremlins inside the critter so that the Keyless entry system would not work. I could not lock or unlock the car, nor, on several occasions would it start. Frustrating...for sure. The dealer's input, it's Hardee's drive through WIRELESS system that was messing up my Edge. Part further away! ( me with two bad knees and a handicap plate!) In conclusion.....I got rid of that Ford Edge! After 80 years, I bought my FIRST FOREIGN car. A SUBARU FORRESTER. I have remained pretty much in the background in these forums. Occasionally posting but mostly watching and learning for many of YOU. THANK YOU, ALL OF YOU. ADIOS!!

It should have it as it was standard on the 2016-2018 Sports. This post shows the difference between steering wheels, with and without.

I don't remember it being announced, but they just cancelled it quietly. I think it is probably for cost reduction especially since there were issues and a recall or a customer satisfaction recall for it. Also, probably because the feature didn't seem to get enough credit from reviews or owners to make it feasible. Although I personally like the feature and find it useful.

You should pop off the cover like it says and check. My 2019 SEL has 5 pin wiring to the rear view mirror, I was able to find the male and female connectors and pins to make my own harness to get switched 12v from the rear view mirror. I wasn't willing to spend $42 on a Dongar adapter, or $150 like the one you posted.

*** The following Dealer Bulletin has been edited to provide the information most relevant to Forum members. *** The complete Safety Recall 24S55 Technical Instructions document, which provides Testing and Service procedures for professional technicians, is attached at the bottom as a PDF document... Safety Recall 24S55 - Engine Valve Inspection Test - Technical Instructions.pdf

@omar302: Per Ford's Service Labor Times Standards, you are correct... A half-hour contingency is apparently being added to the SLTS allowance for Safety Recall 24S55. Good luck!

How come the Edge's labor time is significantly less than other models? Typo?

@m4rioo: As @1004ron describes, when a Ford Service outlet in Poland enters your Edge's VIN in OASIS via the Poland edition of the Professional Technician System (PTS) website, the Warning Messages immediately inform them that your Edge is a USA-market vehicle... ...and while Emissions Recall 24E09 shows among Outstanding Field Service Actions, OASIS provides no information on 24E09 on the Poland OASIS/PTS website, meaning the Recall is not applicable in your region, so I do not expect that a properly configured (for Europe/Poland) FRDS would provide the update -- but that's not necessarily a bad thing. The PCM update provided under 24E09 involves false (incorrect) indications of Catalyst performance that would indicate the indicated Catalyst needs replacement. Now, I'm unsure whether Emissions Testing in Poland/Europe relies upon OBD/electronic data to provide a Pass/Fail rating, but in the event that your Edge throws the DTC indicating a need for Catalyst replacement -- if available in your area -- you could have the Catalyst effectiveness verified by getting a "sniffer" tailpipe-inserted probe/sensor test to verify if the Catalyst performance is in compliance with your country/regional standards, or if Emissions standards or testing requirements don't apply, you'll at least know via a "sniffer" tailpipe Emissions test the Catalyst's authentic condition -- if your Edge ever does throw a DTC saying your Edge's Catalyst is performing in a sub-standard manner, which it may never do. On the other shown Outstanding Field Service Action -- Safety Recall 25S49 -- that is Europe-active and Poland OASIS/PTS provides the following information... 25S49 - Cross Carline: Rear View Camera (RVC) Software Update - Vehicle Hold Date Published: 20 May 2025 Confidential Reference:25S49 Subject: Cross Carline: Rear View Camera (RVC) Software Update -- Vehicle Hold Special Attention: The Recall Co-ordinator should have overall responsibility for implementing this action within your Dealership and Retail Dealer(s). Introduction In some of the affected vehicles, the rear-view camera may not work as intended. Customers may experience a frozen screen, followed by a black screen and a system reboot. Service Instructions are under development and will be released as soon as possible. In the meantime, NEW vehicles (irrespective if sold, unsold, registered or unregistered) must not be released to customers. These vehicles must be held and not sold or used for demonstration purposes until further instructions are published. Vehicles Affected Affected vehicles will be identified on OASIS. Model/Variant Assembly Plant Affected Build Periods (inclusive dates) from to Transit Courier -- Craiova 7/7/2023 30/9/2024 Mach-E -- Cuautitlan 17/3/2020 15/12/2023 F-150 -- Dearborn 8/1/2020 16/4/2024 F-150 -- Dearborn 14/10/2021 15/12/2023 Mustang -- Flatrock Assembly Plant - USA (AAGCL) 4/10/2022 15/2/2024 F-150 -- Kansas City 23/6/2020 9/6/2023 F-250 -- Kentucky 23/3/2022 6/11/2024 Transit -- Kocaeli 4/10/2021 7/3/2025 Bronco -- Michigan Truck 30/9/2020 10/5/2024 Edge -- Oakville 19/8/2020 3/5/2024 Ranger -- Pacheco Assembly 25/10/2022 19/12/2024 Everest -- RAYONG ASSEMBLY PLANT-THAILAND (AAGCM) 1/12/2021 29/2/2024 Ranger -- RAYONG ASSEMBLY PLANT-THAILAND (AAGCM) 26/4/2022 28/5/2024 Focus -- Saarlouis 21/7/2021 21/1/2025 Ranger -- Silverton 24/5/2022 16/11/2024 Ranger -- Thailand LTD Plant Build (AAGB7) 1/10/2022 6/4/2024 Kuga -- Valencia 15/9/2023 15/9/2023 Transit Custom -- Yenikoy 18/1/2023 14/4/2025 Dealer action These vehicles must be held and not sold until further instructions are published. So, Ford Service outlets there have only been provided this early notification on 25S49, but nothing can be done until the repair procedures are developed and made available to them. You could check in with them, in a calm & cordial manner to see if -- since 25S49 is active in Poland -- your USA-market Edge might be eligible -- though, you may run into that same barrier of "It's a USA-market vehicle and not eligible". Good luck!

@m4rioo: If you're curious about the meaning of the various markings on TPMS sensors, see... General Service Bulletin 25-7012 - Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems (TPMS) Identification Glad to hear your question is not due to any TPMS malfunction. Please let us know what brand/model of wheels & winter tires you eventually decide upon. Good luck!

Thanks @omar302 Yes, I have the Adaptive Steering - I definitely like the feel / function but also something I could live without.

I believe so. I plugged in your VIN at the Ford website and thats the p/n that was returned. Picture looks the same as what you posted. Too soon for a TPMS battery to die. Why are you needing just one sensor.?

If you are talking about a 2023 Edge, Ford lists the part as: Part #: TPMS35 (F2GZ1A189A) MSRP: $83.62 (local dealer price is $60.25 ea.)

Does anyone know if anybody else has posted Forscan (or other software) data showing the actual runtime voltages from the DPFE sensor? I have read the diagnostic procedures posted here and elsewhere and those check out for me, but I'm still trying to figure out if both my original sensor and new one are wonky, or if there is possibly something wrong with the wiring on my vehicle. That signal just looks so noisy to me. I have registered over on the Ranger 5G site to try and get any info those folks might provide. I'll post anything I find that appears as though it could possibly help us, (unless they shun me for driving a lowly Edge, and not a manly truck )

Hi All, I just bought a 2013 Edge SEL. It's my first Ford product. I hadn't really even paid much attention to the Edge, but now that I have one, I'm digging it. It is a bit rough around the edges, so it's going to be a bit of a journey.

@johnmarkp: Just noticed this and I don't believe I fulfilled it -- attached below as PDF document(s)... Good luck! Vehicle Dynamics Control Module (VDM) - Wiring Diagram - 2023 Nautilus.pdf REAR SHOCK ABSORBER SOLENOID VALVE LH - Connector C4044 Pinout Details - 2023 Nautilus.pdf

Welcome to the Forum, @giraffegeoff! Looking at your photo -- as you have no doubt already recognized -- there are clear visual differences between the red-arrowed side on which the unlatching button is sagging, and on the green-arrowed side where the unlatching button is not sagging... The plastic piece, pictured in your palm, likely broke away from the sagging-button-side, where it previously supported the button, and its rectangular stem passed through the red-arrowed voids to release the lid's latching mechanism. The button/latching mechanism is available only as Provided In Assembly (PIA), meaning that buying the entire storage compartment bin/lid assembly is required, if you wish to replace it. Ford's online parts-selling site offers several photos of the replacement part... Link to this FordParts webpage It's worth noting that the underside-view photo provides little detail of the button/latching mechanism, though it is possible an engineering improvement was made to the original mechanism design. The instrument panel storage bin lid assembly (FT4Z58301A05AA) is retained by two screws holding the audio speaker in place, and by two screws into the center stack... Accessing the two center-stack screws requires removing several adjacent components, as described in the two Workshop Manual sections that are attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Front Controls Interface Module (FCIM) - Removal and Installation - 2016 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Instrument Panel Upper Storage Bin Edit - Removal & Installation - 2016 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

Welcome to the Forum, @fredo27! While I expect they are comparable where an individual pin is not called-out as being model-specific, attached below as PDF documents are Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector pinout diagrams and a connectors-location illustration pulled for the 2007 MKX... Good luck! POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) - Connector C175B Pinout Diagram - 2007 MKX Wiring Resource.pdf POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) - Connector C175E Pinout Diagram - 2007 MKX Wiring Resource.pdf POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) - Connector C175T Pinout Diagram - 2007 MKX Wiring Resource.pdf POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) - Connector C175B + C175E + C175T Locations - 2007 MKX Wiring Resource.pdf

Yes. Go to https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt/. Enter the VIN number and complete the security check. Use AsBuilt Explorer by Compulsive Code to compare. 2019 Nautilus: 2LMPJ6J93KBL35167 Black Label: 2LMPJ9JP7KBL47905

You might want to ask if anyone can post the connector pinout and wire colors for your 2023 for the rear view mirror and the rain sensor. It pulls straight away from the windshield, there are 4 clips that hold it in place:

Replacing the vent went well. Thanks again for the help Haz! 20250530_114754.heic 20250530_114804.heic 20250530_115403.heic

I couldn't find a specific topic for this, so I posted it here since I have an ST. I neglected to note the last time I changed the oil. Out of character for me. Of course, I know the oil life monitor will tell me, but I live in Phoenix with intense heat and often change it earlier. Will Forscan show the date the oil life monitor was reset? I don't see that available on the in-dash screen. I use Amsoil and had ordered enough for several oil changes a while ago, so I don't know when I did it last. Thanks!

That is standard practice for all manufacturers - they won't touch a "grey import".

I went from a '19 Edge to a '22 Edge Titanium. My '22 Edge is missing 2 things that the older one had. The biggest thing missing is being able to lock and unlock the car from the back doors, I really miss that. I can't figure why they would take that away. A small thing that is different, but I still miss it is the center council doesn't have 2 buttons and tray isn't hinged.

Hi I read through the entire topic, but it seems my case is a bit diferent, and hopefully someone can advise me on that. I have 2019 Ford EDGE ST and the problem is with drivers bottom part of the seat. The top part works well. It is hot and cold, no problem. The passanger top and bottom part work as well. The driver bottom part after youy disconnet the car battery is working fine, but after a while it starts and stops and starts again and stops again and the same till it stops working at all. It doesn't matter for herating or venting the seat it is the same. After you disconnect the car battery and reconnett it it si the same story. We changed the driver seat module as well and the heating element, also exchanged the heating element between driver and passanger seat and it is always the same. What can be a cause for this, what should we look for. No seat specific problems are reported via OBD. Please point me in some specific direction as we cannot figure this out and it is just heat (pain) in the butt Thns for all tghe help.

Looks great, thanks for posting the pics!!! Gonna give this a shot in the next few weeks:)

Ever figure out how to get the hands free liftgate working? Personally I'm happy with my foot-free liftgate; but I'd be pissed if a H.F. came on my car and didn't work.

Hello again guys, are You able to provide me with tpms sensor part number for my car ?

Any way I can get in your will? I'd sure like a shot at that Z28!

They look the same as in the photos above. I just cut the same notch in the bottom of the OEM reflectors as the 3D printed ones had. They look exactly as bright when lit, just normal red reflector color when not lit. And totally no need to remove the rear wheel. Only did that on the first one until I realized it wasn't necessary. Just had to carefully drill a hole where the yellow circle is using a 3/8" drill making sure to just go through the back black side, not go deep enough to cut into the red and stay centered to not hit the edges, and not crack the whole thing in half. Then used a small file and pick to get rid of some plastic mold stuff inside the 2 halves of the reflector that was in the way. Sounds more complicated than it really was. Slow and easy was the trick. Don't get a second chance with these things. If you attempt this, try installing the LED strip first to see if you can get away without drilling the hole. That will depend on the thickness of your strip. A hair makes a big difference as space is limited. BTW, once the drill bit is almost through, it bites or grabs, and the piece wants to start spinning. Be careful not to crack the assembly. Next one I might try melting a hole with a soldering iron to avoid the stress making sure the scrap pieces don't fall inside. Then deburr the surface so it lays flat against the bumper insert.

If I relied on the oil life monitor I'd be changing the oil at around 10K miles, which is twice the mileage I change it at using good brand full synthetic. If I were you I'd change the oil when the oil life monitor is around 50%. Water under the bride but I take the attached photos at each oil change to keep with my Xcel spreadsheet. I don't know, but doubt that Forscan would have that history.

It's been a while and unfortunately I can't recommend this vendor anymore. I had multiple LEDs fail in his light strips. He was nice enough to send me replacement strips free of charge but they soon failed as well. When I tried to remove his 3D printed parts, the double sided tape was so strong it ended up breaking them into multiple pieces. When asked why his lights failed he said they weren't intended for use as running lights, and said maybe they'd be better suited as additional turn signals, as they wouldn't be on as long, although his ad doesn't say that. I ended up purchasing a new strip of LED waterproof lights from these guys in Vermont: https://www.ledsupply.com/led-strips/waterproof-12v-led-strip I got 3 feet, red, and 60 LED high density. They are waterproof rated to IP65 and were only $19.99. They are the same width as what I originally had but about a hair thicker. I did use his idea but with the factory reflectors this time. I notched out the bottom of the red OEM reflectors enough to slide the new LEDs in (after I cut them to length), but had to drill a hole in the back side (which afterwards I covered with waterproof tape) in order to file out a small interior factory manufactured seam. After that the strip slid right it, wired it up, and it has been working absolutely perfectly. And now I have the best of both worlds.....running lights and reflectors!

Both the forscan and the professional scanner from the mechanic do not show any codes, either with the warning appearing, or in the archived codes, nothing appears in relation to the AWD being turned off

So far so good. If it does come back, it could be a weak battery issue.

My 2011 Ford Edge has been having this problem for years. Checked the fuse, looked at the struts, reset liftgate settings, disconnected battery, etc. I had to change out the car battery for a different reason and it fixed my liftgate problem. Although, it had to be a battery from AutoZone though (Duralast). I had been using Interstate batteries from Costco for years. For some reason, it made a difference using a Duralast battery. It's been a year and the liftgate functions properly.

I did not get it to show up. I confirmed that it was powered up and I am 99% sure that the CAN2 was hooked up properly as well. I assume that the profile characteristics are in as built database. I cannot figure out how to fool the system. It would be interesting to compare my 2019 ST with a 2019 Nautilus with and without Adaptive suspension. Can we still get the as built data by VIN number? I don't remember how to view the as built data, can someone remind me?

Yep, I do, with rear view camera

So I can go with option B without any problems whatsoever, right? And the markings are for all the sensors or just the inner 2 ones?

Jetboy 47, I recently acquired a FT4Z-581178-C and have a 2024 ST. A big Thank You to rafeeki for selling me his extra one! I have not yet installed it, but from my measurements and visual observation, it will work. The screw holes and light plug cut out match up. I may have to do some slight modification to the center area around the hitch, but it is plastic and can be cut out very easily. I am planning an install soon and will post my results. If you can get either one (-C or -D) I believe the D would be the exact fit and no modification would be needed. But since they no longer exist, get whichever one you can at this point. I was just at my local ford dealership and there were 2 2024's on the floor. Both of them were missing this part. Shame on Ford for doing this to a brand-new vehicle.

Check this video. Probably it is what you are facing. Another reason for it to happen, not mentioned in the video, is a weak car battery.

I found this mount on ebay. It was made for and fits in the cubby hole. 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024 Ford Edge Phone mount black | eBay

Good luck! 360 Camera - Wiring Diagram 2 - 2024 Edge - China.pdf 360 Camera - Wiring Diagram 1 - 2024 Edge - China.pdf Parking Aid - Component Location - Description and Operation - 2024 Edge Workshop Manual - China.pdf Side Parking Aid Camera - Removal and Installation - 2024 Edge Workshop Manual - China.pdf

Fuses and Fuse Box Locations - 2024 Nautilus Owner's Manual.pdf Central Junction Box (CJB) - Fuse-Relay Locations - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Central Junction Box (CJB) - Fuses-Circuits Listing #1 - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Central Junction Box (CJB) - Fuses-Circuits Listing #2 - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Central Junction Box (CJB) - Fuses-Circuits Listing #3 - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Central Junction Box (CJB) - Connector C2281A & C2281B Locations - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Central Junction Box (CJB) & Connectors C2281A & C2281B Location - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Battery Junction Box (BCMC) & High Current Battery Junction Box (BJB) Illustration - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Battery Junction Box (BCMC) - Fuses-Circuits Listing #1 - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Battery Junction Box (BCMC) - Fuses-Circuits Listing #2 - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Battery Junction Box (BCMC) - Fuses-Circuits Listing #3 - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Battery Junction Box (BCMC) Illustration & Connectors C1035A & C1035B Location - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Battery Junction Box (BCMC) Illustration & Connectors C1035A & C1035B Location - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Low Voltage High Current Fuse - 2.0L EcoBoost - Removal and Installation - 2024 Nautilus Workshop Manual.pdf Battery Junction Box (BCMC)) - Removal and Installation - 2024 Nautilus Workshop Manual.pdf

@GTEyes: From the 2022-2024 Edge Workshop Manual, with emphasis added... Placing your device cursor over underlined acronyms may yield a popup full-words description of the acronyms. Climate Controlled Seat Operation The driver and passenger climate controlled seat buttons are selected from the touchscreen. The climate controlled seat system functions independently from the vehicle's climate control system. The seat cushion and backrest are each equipped with a blower motor assembly. As cabin air is drawn through each blower motor, a Thermo-Electric Device (TED) heats or cools the air, which is then directed into the foam pad where it is distributed along the surface of the cushion and backrest of the seat. Once the system is activated, the SCME uses a set of flexible algorithms to control the heating/cooling modes and the blower speed dependent on the commanded climate controlled seat settings. The SCME monitors seat cushion temperature while it supplies voltage and ground to both blower motors. The SCME also supplies a variable voltage signal to control the blower speed. Cabin air enters the blower through an integrated filter attached to the blower motor housing. Heated or cooled air exits the blower motor and flows through the foam pad. Climate Controlled Seat Heating Characteristics The system control settings are indicated next to each climate controlled seat heat switch button. The first setting is HIGH (3 indicators), the second setting is MED (2 indicators) and the third is LOW (1 indicator) then OFF (no indicators). When heating, the SCME varies the speed of the blower motors and the duty cycle of the integral Thermo-Electric Device (TED) in order to reach and maintain the desired temperature determined by the system control settings. Climate Controlled Seat Cooling Characteristics The system control settings are based on the 3 indicators next to each climate controlled seat cool switch button. The first setting is HIGH (3 indicators), the second setting is MED (2 indicators) and the third is LOW (1 indicator) then OFF (no indicators). When cooling, the SCME maintains a constant blower motor speed and a constant Thermo-Electric Device (TED) supply voltage (duty cycle is determined by the switch setting) in COOL mode. Climate Controlled Seat Recovery Mode NOTE: The presence of overtemperature faults (Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) B1153:4B, B1154:4B, B1151:4B and B1152:4B) can be induced by incorrectly operating the climate controlled seat system after an initial heat setting has been attained. If a heat setting is repeatedly turned off and on in an attempt to increase the seat temperature or repeatedly toggled between heat and cool modes, an overtemperature condition can result and the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) may be set. If the temperature of one of the blower motors rises above 110° C (229.8° F) in the heat mode or 65° C (149° F) in the cool mode for more than 4 seconds, the SCME records an overtemperature DTC , removes voltage from the Thermo-Electric Devices (TEDs) (part of the blower motor assembly) and goes into recovery mode (blower only) for 30 seconds to cool down the blower motor. The same occurs if a temperature difference of 60° C (140° F) or greater is detected between the backrest and cushion blower motors on either front seat. The SCME continues to monitor the blower motors while in recovery mode. If the temperature of the Thermo-Electric Devices (TEDs) do not drop to 105° C (220.8° F) in the heat mode or 60° C (140° F) in the cool mode after 30 seconds, the system continues to cool the blower motors in recovery mode for up to 5 minutes. If the Thermo-Electric Devices (TEDs) cool down after 30 seconds, but before 5 minutes (checked at 4 second intervals), the system is operating normally. An overtemperature DTC is still recorded even if the system recovers and is operating normally. This is more likely to occur during extreme cabin temperatures with significant seat back sun load. If the system does not recover within 30 seconds in heat mode or within 5 minutes in cool mode, the SCME disables that seat (fault mode) and remains off until the ignition is cycled. Also, if the SCME detects a temperature differential fault twice during the same ignition cycle, the SCME disables the seat. When a fault causes a shutdown, the climate controlled seat indicators turn off and that seat is not operational until the next ignition cycle. Good luck!

It fit perfectly. I yet have to add the screw that goes through the wheel well. Attached is a picture from the installation, note how it fit tight against the tow hitch.

You have lost the reflective function, hence when the lights are off there the vehicle is less visible. In other words, it can be deemed less safe.

Searching UK used-vehicles-for-sale websites yields Euro-export ST-Line Edges with rear fog lamps installed, along with the headlamp switch that includes the rear fog lamps on-off button that you have already installed, photos here for Forum members awareness... I pulled VIN-based part numbers for a Euro-Spec export 2019 Edge ST-Line, where Engineering Part number is what was originally installed and Service Part number is the current Replacement Part, shown below... Right Hand Rear Fog Lamp Left Hand Rear Fog Lamp Headlamp Switch Assembly A Ford OEM Parts seller in your home country of Poland offers these same Euro-Spec Rear Fog Lamp part numbers for sale in the below links to their webpages... ODBLASK PRAWY TYŁ EDGE 2018- EUROPA_ 2270319 _ KK7B-15K272-AB _ KK7Z-15200-C ŚWIATŁO PRZECIWMGIELNE LEWE TYŁ EDGE 18- EU _ 2270321 _ KK7B-15K273-AB _ KK7Z-15200-D Per the Ali Express website photos and those on the above-linked webpages, the fog lamp light source apparently inserts into the open-top molded stem leading to the red semi-transparent lens portion of the mostly-reflector Rear Fog Lamp assemblies. While you indicate you may already have wiring information, attached below as PDF documents are Euro-Spec 2019 Edge wiring & connector diagrams for comparably aspiring Forum members... It's worth noting that the Euro-Spec Edge wiring diagram of the Body Control Module (BCM) includes a Field Effect Transistor (FET) protection device for the Rear Fog Lamps circuit, which may not be present in the North American BCM, though crosschecking North American versus European BCM part numbers, or real-world testing on your Edge may otherwise reveal. If you already possess all of this awareness, then at least it's now available to other Forum members. Good luck! Rear Fog Lamps - Wiring Diagram #1 - Euro-Export 2019 Edge.pdf Rear Fog Lamps - Wiring Diagram #2 - Euro-Export 2019 Edge.pdf BODY CONTROL MODULE (BCM) - Connector C2280F - Euro-Spec 2019 Edge.pdf Rear Fog Lamp Left Hand - Connector C436 Location - Euro-Spec 2019 Edge.pdf Rear Fog Lamp Left Hand - Connector C436 Pins-Circuits Detail - Euro-Spec 2019 Edge.pdf Rear Fog Lamp Right Hand - Connector C437 Pins-Circuits Detail - Euro-Spec 2019 Edge.pdf Rear Fog Lamp Right Hand - Connector C437 Location - Euro-Spec 2019 Edge.pdf

Nice find Haz! Crazy to see how much they cut out on the one with the tow package. I had to make a small cut for the wiring harness and that was it. The hitch does contact the cover and presses it down about a 1/4" right below the receiver tube. And someone asked about taking the bumper off to mount this, you should be able to get it in there with the bumper on. From the photos above, there's no mounts above the muffler either, just one on each side.

What a coincidence, I just put some zip-tie straps on my 22 ST today. There is no rear bumper cover shield on these vehicles. I went to the dealer when I noticed how the bottom isn't attached to anything, yet there are 4 holes there that look like they should clip to something. They had 4 or 5 new ST models with trailer hitch, and every one of them was the same. I can imagine at higher speeds this thing is just flapping in the wind. At least the ties will stop that somewhat. If you just touch your foot on the bottom of the bumper cover, you can move it back and forth several inches and even the fake chrome tailpipe extenders move like crazy. The dealer also told me this is how they are supposed to be. I saw this topic on the Ford Edge ST Nation Facebook page. Evidently they are all like this. Very poor workmanship for a $50k plus vehicle. Here's the link to the facebook page. The post is from July 2nd regarding loose rear bumper cover. Ford Edge ST Nation | Facebook