boiler662

Got it figured out thanks akirby it was due to recirc being on. It turns out the piece of the blend door that connects to the motor broke. If the door is closed it will open however if the door is open it will not close. From what I can find the door is part of the entire housing so it is off to the junk yard to find a door.

After further investigation I am thinking the recirculation door is stuck in the recirculation mode, I hear no change in air flow when pressing the button which would also explain why the defrost setting was not working properly that still does not explain why the heat sky rocketed when the Temps were so cold. If the door is stuck is it behind the glove box and which motor controls it? Has anyone ever had to fix it before? Thanks Andy

I am pretty sure the 2010 does not have max defrost unless that is the standalone defrost button. Now that temps have returned to normal for South Texas everything works as it should that leads me to believe it is a software issue and the system freaks out once the temps drop below freezing. Does anyone have the TSB # to update the HVAC system? Also,I am guessing it is not normal to have the air flow directed to the floor (not the floor and defrost setting) and air comes out of the defroster vents in the doors?

Recirculate was not on at least not on by me, pressing the button does nothing on the 2010 it will not illuminate the recirc icon on the HVAC display with defrost selected. It would not let me lower the temp I had it set to 60 and it was still blowing hotter than blazes with defrost on. A few thoughts could recirculate be stuck open? If it is that still does not explain why it always blows hot with defrost on as soon as I change the direction to dash or floor everything acts as it should.

Bump Due to the wonderful winter weather most of the country is experiencing we got to experience this very nice interior frost feature first hand while driving from north east Indiana back to Houston yesterday. You want to talk about dangerous driving try having your windows frost over when it is -5 outside thankfully I figured out when you have the defroster on with the fan speed on high the temp automatically goes to heat from h@ll setting no matter what you do with the temp controls and "conveniently" turns the A/C off, if you crack a window slightly and draw in dry air you can slowly VERY slowly clear up the windshield and front windows. Does the updated IDS flash also work for the 2010 model year or is it only for the 2011+ models if so is there a TSB i can reference when I call the dealer I have a feeling Houston dealers will probably question what a defroster system does . As an engineer how did they miss this scenario in testing who in their right mind would have the A/C turn off when temps drops below 32° and have the interior temperature setting automatically go to the highest setting while ignoring manual changes when turning on the defrost feature,

Almost 122k The typical front suspension rebuild is sway bar links, control arms and shocks (which I did last year)?.

Getting ready to buy the parts am I missing anything?

Bump sounds like the right front CV joint is on the way out, starting to pop under full lock to the left and when I hit bumps hard enough. Here is my list of parts so far for our AWD 2010 Moog front end rebuild kit Inner tie rods (2) Left and right outer tie rods left and right lower control arms with ball joints sway bar bushings (2)? sway bar links (2) For the CV joints I noticed a lot of suppliers on rock auto with a variety of prices with Motorcraft being the most expensive, what brand has everyone been using? Are there any other parts large or small I am missing? Should I also replaced the rear sway bar links at this time? Thanks, Andy

I took it to two different shops, both said everything is tight and looks good, the left rear was a few degrees out of alignment. We did hit what I thought was a small pot hole a few days before I noticed the steering wheel and alignment issues. Can these parts look and feel normal but need changed?

Bump I drove our 2010 AWD with just shy of 111,000 miles this morning and noticed the steering wheel is off center to the left and is pulling to the right, guess its time to rebuild the suspension I changed the shocks and struts over the summer and had an alignment done at the same time. What else should I look for and change during this process? Thanks

Should I do the rear struts at the same time or let those go, we plan on keeping the car for at least another 20k miles

Is the above parts list applicable for a 2010 AWD? We have almost 97k miles on ours and we are getting a clunking noise when going over bumps, I am not home to hear it but from what my wife says it sounds like a strut bearing is on the way out. That seems like a pretty comprehensive list is there anything else we would need to overhaul the front and rear suspensions? Thanks Andy

So update after doing numerous diagnostic checks through the climate control panel they started working, this was back in July after I posted this.

Just ordered the Moog hub we will see how this one turns out Thanks for your help

I am not sure what else it would be the stock bearings were fine until 80k miles. The first time the left rear failed I had a raybestos put on and it failed 3000 miles later at the time I thought it was the right rear because there was no way the new bearing would have failed in 3000 miles once we found out it was the left rear the raybestos was then replaced with an SKF. When I thought the right rear had failed I had a raybestos put on and it started failing last week with 3500 miles on it. Long story short I had two raybestos hubs fail in 3500 miles. Yesterday I took off both rear tires, calipers and dicsc and spun the hubs, the right rear was definitely grinding and was harder to spin than the left rear. I guess what I could do is take the right rear hub off and check it, when the first raybestos failed it was slinging grease after 3000 miles.