akirby

Easy to test - see if the brake lights come on.

Have not heard that complaint, but there are problems requiring the steering wheels to be replaced on some vehicles.

OTOH unless you're completely incapacitated the collision warning is sufficient to allow you to brake yourself.

Ford has been reluctant to roll out autonomous braking and stop and go in North America. Not sure why. Could be a technical issue or they could just be worried about liability.

That delay is usually the electronic throttle control. They program it that way for smoother response for all the non-hooligan drivers like my wife. For us hooligans it can be frustrating. I believe there are tunes that can eliminate or shorten it as well as add-on devices.

Using S won't get it off the line any faster or make it any faster on a WOT 0-60 run. It does help while moving in that it holds a lower gear in some cases keeping rpm higher. As lidisco points out you can use the paddles to downshift in preparation for passing even in D mode. It downshifts temporarily then returns to full automatic mode. Once you're in S mode it will shift automatically until you use the paddles, then it's manual shifts until you go back to D. I use S a lot when driving in hilly terrain at lower speeds.

Sorry - I thought reinserting the fuse after pulling it was obvious......

My observation is the exact opposite. The 2.0LEB is quick off the line but runs out of steam around 6K rpm. The 3.7NA is a dog off the line but comes alive around 4K rpm.

Sounds like the head unit. Try pulling the fuse.

Anything flaky with other steering wheel controls? Could be the clockspring or the head unit itself.

I've found the OEM maps to be accurate at least 90% of the time unless you're in an area with a lot of new construction.

Not just Ford - almost all OEMs use the same map suppliers.

I agree about it not being worth the effort. But just to clarify - you mean the dealership tested the battery and found it to be ok so they didn't replace it, right? Not that they found it needed to be replaced but the warranty didn't cover it.

That's what I was trying to say. It's covered during the warranty but you don't get any coverage after the warranty expires like you would normally get with a replacement battery. So if you get a replacement in month 35 and it dies again at month 37 it's not covered.

The problem is the accessory delay isn't done for a circuit but rather in the module. E.g. the radio has constant power and gets a signal for the accessory delay and it determines when to turn itself off. So you can't just tap into a circuit for that.

Why would you need YouTube when the instructions are in the owner's manual in the glovebox or in the pdf online versions?

Batteries are covered in the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty. But there is no additional warranty offered on a battery replaced under warranty.

It's far more than just installing the lift strut and motor. You also need buttons, latches, sensors and software. The cost - if it was possible - would be prohibitive. Would probably be cheaper to trade in your Edge for a new one with it.

I believe with City you can give it a City and State. If not I'm sure you can change the state at some point in the process.

If the other stuff works I wouldn't worry about it.

Sorry I missed the part about the new thumb drive working. Did you reformat that old drive as FAT32?

Because it may not be the thumb drive - it may be the usb port as I alluded to above.

If you were playing the USB stick when you turned of the vehicle and it doesn't go back to that source then it probably means it didn't see the USB stick when it started up. Could be a flaky USB port.

I noticed the same thing on the MKX seats. They do seem slightly more narrow although the MKX reserve seats are quite comfy and was a major reason we upgraded from the Edge.

Not possible.