akirby

Could be a PCM (computer) problem. You might also consider a new dealer - it's possible they're not diagnosing it correctly.

Obviously having directional treads or different size front and rear tires limits the rotation opportunity to one end or one side of the vehicle. Outside of that, the thought is that you get different wear patterns and when you rotate tires it takes awhile for the tires to "wear in" to the new position and handling could be slightly compromised during that time. BMW feels the slight increase in tire wear is a good tradeoff to maintaining maximum performance. Volvo doesn't recommend rotation either. You still need to rotate if you want even wear but it's certainly not required.

Some mfrs don't even recommend rotations anymore. 7500 should not be a problem. If it's a tire problem it's not due to lack of rotation - it would have to be a defect or damage.

Normally nothing. I don't think wheel weights would cause an alignment issue or cause it to pull but it won't hurt to check anyway. Alignments are usually covered for the first 12 mos/12K miles. Could also be an improperly reinstalled wheel or even a bad tire. Also check the tire pressure.

Oh please - grow up already.

It's not air - this is a common Ford trait. The brakes work just fine but the pedal is mushy and not firm.

Are you going for looks or performance? EBC pads are usually recommended by folks that use them. Rotors would be for show only - they won't help you stop on the street.

That is typical of most Ford products - not sure why. The only upgrade I know of that seems to help is braided stainless steel brake lines.

In the past Ford has been unwilling to negotiate on the buyout price - take it or leave it. But ask to be sure. If it's a good vehicle and the buyout is close to what you would pay for a similar vehicle then go for it. But sometimes it's a lot cheaper to let that one go back and buy another used one - depends on how they set the residual value and what the current used market looks like. Essentially - you're just buying a used vehicle, albeit one you are familiar with.

When you start off your first post this way: I think you should expect some pushback. Why not just say "I'm looking for 20" chrome or silver wheels" and leave it at that?

I'm sure you can find similar threads on Jeep problems if you look hard enough. But I'm sure that wouldn't stop you from buying another one.

I don't think he saw the 5w-30 reference in your original post. Or maybe he thought it changed in the 2 years since you posted it.

It's bigger with a 3rd row, better interior and more options (refrigerator, 365hp, etc.). I'd certainly consider it a step up.

Edge - CD3 - derived from Fusion platform which was derived from the old Mazda6 platform. Flex - D4. Larger, derived from Volvo S80 platform. Apples and oranges.

Who has a longer B2B warranty outside of premium mfrs? Remember the powertrain is 5/60K.

What about just using the key instead of the keyfob?

Just providing information - you determine what's best for you. I can still see to backup by leaning my head all the way over to the left or right as necessary but it's certainly not convenient.

Leasing works for many people. It does have the advantage of a fixed depreciation estimate that's not subject to market changes. All things being equal (which never happens) there should be no difference between leasing for 36 months or buying and then trading in after 36 months. Any extra cost for the purchase option should be reflected in the vehicle equity. In the past mfrs would subsidize leases more than purchases because they knew they'd be back for another vehicle in 2-3 years, but that backfired when used car values dropped like a rock last year. If you're not going to pay off the vehicle and keep it for a year or two at least, then leasing might be the better option. Although you have more options when purchasing as far as getting rid of the vehicle early. The key is to treat a lease as another form of financing and do the comparison based on your situation and don't look at just the monthly payments.

http://www.linquist.net/motorsports/tech/mirrors/ http://www.autoblog.com/2009/08/20/do-cost...em-that-doesnt/ or google George Platzer. I suggest pulling up beside a parked car until it's in that blind spot, then adjust your side mirror so you can see it.

It's not the fact that it's a lease - a lease is just another way of financing. Whether you lease or buy and sell after 2-3 years you're still paying depreciation and it's the depreciation during the first 2-3 years that's the killer. If you want a new car every 2-3 years and you don't mind paying for it then leasing is for you. But it will always be cheaper in the long run to buy a vehicle and keep it for 5-6 years or longer.

I bought a touch up kit from paintscratch.com and will attempt to repair some small scratches on the back bumper in the next couple of weeks.

That's true for almost every Ford product. They're required in Canada.

Those daytime running lights won't do you much good when the car BEHIND you runs into you because the tail lights aren't on. Maybe that just went over your head.....

It's the law in most states that your lights must be on when it's raining - not to mention it's a really, really good idea. I've never had a problem seeing the gauges in with or without the lights on during the day or night or in between and that includes 4 years with my Fusion and 1.5 with the Edge. Have you tried adjusting the gauge brightness?

As long as it has a lighted vanity mirror - yes. The connections should be the same. You can buy a new visor but they're expensive ($300 last time I checked). You can also buy any visor with homelink and transfer the homelink unit to your current visor. You just remove the fabric, cut out a mounting spot, splice the power wires into the vanity mirror feed and put the fabric back on. I did my Fusion for $50 but I couldn't figure out how to get the fabric off so I cut it. Looks terrible and I will get a new visor and try again.