akirby

But you can do a one-touch partial open which leaves it in the best position for normal driving. If you open it all the way you get too much buffeting. You can also do a one-touch partial close but that doesn't help much.

True. In fact you don't even need the coupon - when they put your info into the system it shows whether you're eligible for that rebate or not. At least that's the way mine worked.

When I hear "wore out" it implies the rotor wears down over time like brake pads or tires and that doesn't happen (except at Pep Boys apparently). But yes, I agree that rotors need to be replaced from time to time.

I thought you just said that pads eat rotors. Make up your mind.

Where do you come up with this stuff? They give you lifetime pads but you have to pay for the labor to install them and all the other stuff they add on - that's where they make up the cost of the pads. Rotors are steel - they're not going to be "eaten" by any type of brake pad.

Find another dealer and get it fixed right. Ford will stand behind this no questions asked. It's just a matter of getting a quality body shop to do the repair.

Only the warped ones........

No, the brake pad wears out, not the rotor. The rotor gets surface defects or in rare cases can be warped which requires turning (shaving off metal) to bring it back into spec. This can only be done a couple of times before the rotor has to be replaced. What I'm saying is that rotors don't simply "wear out" like tires or brake pads.

You don't really have a frame but there's no way to tell if the unibody is bent until they put it on a jig and measure it. If the fenders aren't deformed then you might be ok. Looks like the grill absorbed most of the impact. The one thing I always told my son was don't hurry to get home. Call and tell us you're on the way and drive safely.

Rotors don't "go bad".

No, Ford doesn't use those. And FYI - it's pedal, not peddle.

Gee, I wonder why the dealer would say 3000 if the book says 7500? Could it possibly be that they want to make more money? Do what the book says, not what the dealer says. If you feel better doing 5000 instead of 7500 that's ok, but don't do it because of what the dealer says.

You say switching to synthetic immediately won't hurt anything. Ford engineers say differently. You say using a full synthetic won't void your warranty. It can IF it doesn't meet the Ford specs. The issues can be avoided by waiting until the first scheduled oil change to switch to full synthetic and only use a full synthetic that meets Ford specifications.

Interesting that you think you know more about engines and oil than the Ford engineers who design and build them. You don't need 0W anything unless you live in extreme cold. Just because an oil is synthetic doesn't mean it meets the required Specifications from Ford. If it doesn't meet the spec then it's grounds for warranty denial. Period. Use what you want but at least make sure it meets the spec.

There are no leaked reports on engine choices yet. Last I heard the 3.5L EB was first and about to be released on the MKT, Taurus SHO and MKS this summer. Next up is the 1.6L but not for at least another year - maybe longer. The in between EB engines would presumably be after that unless they're able to pull up the development cycle.

When you hit the limit, it briefly cuts power, then puts it back. The result is that it will "bounce" off the rev limiter - fluctuating by a couple of hundred RPM. Try it in Park and you'll see. Note that some cars have a lower limit when in park or drive - my Lincoln LS was 3K - so you don't rev it up to 6K and then drop it into gear and destroy the tranny.

Wire mesh won't filter as well as paper, no matter how fine it appears to be.

The computer will not allow you to overrev the engine - it will cut out at or just below redline. No worries.

Hello - it's in the NAV/Sync supplement. Did you look there?

On my Fusion the main speaker cable goes to the door speaker which has a built-in crossover and that feeds the tweeter in the A pillar.

Why not? People do it ALL the time. Waldo found it.

You need to get your sarcasm detector fixed...........

I wish they'd put stuff like this in some type of book that the owner could keep with the car. You could probably keep it in the glovebox.

I didn't make the rules. I was just explaining that Ford was simply complying with government regulations and that it wasn't just a design choice.

My point is that making it a recall won't change the repair procedures. Ford is already doing all it can to try and fix the problem and it appears that the repair procedure works if done correctly. Unfortunately Ford doesn't have any control over their dealers. If Ford was refusing to repair these then I could see the benefit. But they're not.