akirby

They can run after engine shutdown if the engine is too hot. See how long they run - if it's only a couple of minutes it's normal - check the coolant level.

While I generally agree you also need to consider mileage not just age. A fellow with a 2017 F450 needed a new high pressure fuel pump a couple of months ago and wanted to know how to get Ford to help cover the cost since he was out of warranty. Then he explained that he had 278K miles!!!! Extreme case but you get the point.

Not sure exactly which sensor it might be and I doubt unplugging it would work. Are the brake lights working? Do you get any “not in park” warnings?

No. Outside of the Ford GT no Ford engines require premium. You can get a few more hp and a few tenths better MPG on some engines (mostly ecoboosts) but it's not required.

The PCM keeps checking something when the sensor stops working and that drains the battery.

Yes.

Oops - missed that.

It’s no longer under warranty. 40K miles.

My F150 was similarly optimistic initially, showing 21.3 but manually calculated 19.7 (e.g.). However - the last tank I checked was the opposite - manual was actually higher than the computer. So I need to do some more testing. Might have been operator error. Either way not sure it's worth changing for such a small difference.

Brake shift interlock is a common culprit.

Where you been? We’ve been discussing it here for a couple of months. And it’s not just the ST.

I don’t think anyone is saying that their DTE is off by that much. That sounds like a malfunction somewhere.

Unless I totally misunderstood you.

They’re saying the opposite. When ours shows 50 miles to empty we can actually drive 70 or more - it keeps 1-2 gallons in reserve when it says 0 MTE. Are you saying when yours says 50 miles to empty you drive 10 miles and it’s at 0?

Never heard of that problem. What mpg are you actually getting? It uses the last 500 mile average for the DTE estimate but I’ve never heard anything like what you described.

Not following you.

They’re smaller so they spool up faster and virtually eliminate turbo lag. You can’t easily have it both ways.

Ah, yes the smaller turbos would spin much faster than the larger ones.

You bought it for $11K less than new (street price) or $11K less than MSRP? Big difference.

Ecoboost engines and turbos are designed and built to work together from the get-go, just like turbo diesels. That's the biggest difference between modern ecoboosts and older turbos that were just add-ons to engines designed to be NA. And new materials make the turbos much more reliable. They do probably see higher RPM sometimes and higher exhaust temps, although my 3.5LEB F150 stays under 2K rpm almost all the time and usually around 1300 rpm with the new 10 speed.

Fair enough. My experience is the ecoboosts have a wider range of mpg. You can do great if you drive it the right way but you can also do a lot worse if you drive it the other way, whereas NA engines don't vary as much. I also find it interesting that people worry about ecoboost turbos but you never hear any concerns about diesel turbos that routinely go 200K, 300K or longer.

Youre going by what one dealer quoted you on a trade-in? Maybe theyre low balling you. Or maybe you paid too much to begin with. Hard to say. But $8K/yr depreciation on a $40K vehicle sounds about right for the first 2 years.

Have you actually driven one?

Yes. The longitudinal versions (RWD) have the external water pump. They only did it on the transverse models because there wasn’t enough room for the external pump.

The only thing that's new is the disconnecting PTU and maybe a more sophisticated algorithm.