hunter306

What year is your edge? I have a driveway (which I park on only occasionally when the garage is full) and it has a RIDICULOUS slope compared to most, this would be a major issue for me as it'd probably end up in the neighbors yard....

FYI, The original poster has not been back online since JULY 26. This sale has been dead a long time, I already PM'd him way back in August about it to no avail. Probably should let this one die.

Good points, I got one of these 'keyport' gadgets as a gift. Unfortunately, it doesn't have a spot for the integrated buttons-- so my reasoning behind breaking it out was so that I could still have my keyless remote, attached to the keyport.

Thanks everyone, it looks like it's not hard to do at all. AND-- I won't loose the functionality of the existing 2 keys... =) Amazon sells the 3-button boxes for 12 dollars. Includes steps to program: http://www.amazon.com/2008-2010-Universal--Yourself-Programming-eKeylessRemotes/dp/B005I0LLS2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1317931143&sr=1-2 Looks like you can also read the instructions here: http://www.ekeylessremotes.com/ford-remotes/2011/e-series-econoline-club-wagon-van/click-here-for-free-remote-head-key-and-remote-programming-instructions-ford-1/ This looks like an easy, cheap way to get my third keyless fob without having the key attached =) Good for getting things out of the car, without giving access to the ignition.

Thanks dingo, I'm not so much concerned about the key side -- I'm fine there, just want to know if I can reprogram a standard ford keyless entry those 3 button square ones that are quite small to do the keyless doors. I know that will disable one of my Keyhead based fobs, that's not a big concern.

Hey Guys, we have the 2010 Edge that had the Integrated KeyFobs in the head of the key. I would like to convert one back to an original style keyless box (sans the key), does anyone know if this is possible? Any good how-to's on this process?

Couple of things: 1) the Hatch isn't all the way closed 2) if you're placing items on the Passenger seat that are significant in weight, the belt minder may be chiming for the passenger seat as well. My mustang used to chime ocassionally when I had a big pile of goodies on the passenger seat.

The early models 05-06 mustangs had a similar issue as well, it happened near the electrical panel on the passenger side in that case though. Check to see if you notice any residue/water marking around the pass-through gaskets under the dashboard?

Another take on it, if you're too lazy to EVER do a wash the proper way... Getting a car wash is still better than leaving splattered bugs and crap stuck to your paint. Surely, hand washing or touchless are great options- but I think for some arbitrarily large percentage of owners, the edge is much more a utility vehicle than a show vehicle where immaculate paint is necessary/expected. My 2cents!

FYI Did a bit more digging on this. The Edge has a +44mm offset. Looks like the 05' Mustang had a 42mm offset. 2mm is probably going to be close enough that you could pass on the edge, but I'd still check the backspacking and make sure you're not rubbing when you're at full lock. If anything, the wheels may just look a hair off sitting in the wells, depending on the design and the tire choice. I'm no pro at this stuff though, so be sure to get them checked out by someone who can verify the mustang wheels are ok for a CUV. One thing I'd watch for is the Tire Load (assuming the tires are still on there) Rating.

Probably want to check the backspacing and offset on the Mustang wheels vs. the Edge. I know my 2005 mustang had a unique offset that made them incompatible with some other vehicles with the same bolt pattern.

Good to hear others chime in. I'm in Michigan as well, though I don't do much commuting- so I've been able to avoid most of our terrible infrastructure. I may up the PSI to 38.5 and see how that does out on the road. I agree on the instant 'MPG' readout, I have been conscious of it since I bought the truck and it's been a great way to retrain some bad habits. I finally saw it hit 27.1mpg on the freeway coming home this past weekend =)

This past holiday weekend, I wanted to try a little experiment since we were taking a good 500 mile drive. Rather than run at the stock 35psi, I upped the pressure to 37.5psi for the trip. So far, I'm extremely pleased with the difference in the fuel economy. My last 3 tanks are notably higher than I was doing at the stock pressure. As far as I can tell, the ride quality hasn't suffered much for the 2psi (it's a bit stiffer in real rough transitions - IE Parking lot to road) but overall for the better mileage I'm going to stick with it. Certainly no surprise here that the increased pressure is helping reduce the rolling resistance, but I wondered if anyone else had run them a bit high and what their thoughts were? TPMS doesn't seem to mind either.

Actually, both will fit (I tried it!)-- but it's much tighter. As the design will facilitate either item (Screen, or Element filter) you can safely just use the paper filter. One of the big reasons I ended up pulling the plastic screen was the notriously weak edge fan. It seems with both in there, I had reduced the pressure of air coming out of the vents. Either way though, will work. Experiment and see if you find both acceptable.

Same one that came in mine. I swapped it out for a filter that actually does the job of 'filtering' rather than just catching giant particles. http://www.amazon.com/TYC-800111P-Mazda-Replacement-Filter/dp/B002E5HMSC/ref=cm_cr-mr-title As for cleaning, the screen is a plastic screen-- so you can simply blow it out with compressed air and then rinse it in the sink and it will be as good as new.

Have you tried cleaning it with a Grease-Removing spray cleaner? From the lot, my dash was coated with a armorall or other greasy, oily product. As a result, just like you the GPS dash disc wouldn't stick. Wipe it clean of the greasy residue and it's good to go.

I think these seats use a very similar mechanism to a bicycle-gear shift cable to control the latch? I wonder if something in the latching mechanism (between the lever, and the actual physical latch) has come loose? Can you manually unlatch the seat and check the mechanism to make sure it's still engaging via the lever?

I'm in agreement, perhaps a dark grey stripe (not full on black or blue) would give you a nice understated look that adds some character.

Hi Doug, I've seen one or two pinstriped edges around my home here, I'll see if I can catch a few pictures of them. I think it looks pretty sharp if you get someone that can do it well. Also, it really depends on the color of the edge.

Congratulations, what color did you managed to get? 08 was the last year for the Blazing Copper metallic which was a REALLY attractive paint color in my eyes! Sure you'll be pleased with it, have fun getting it all customized.

Congrats, I'll say I'd have gladly driven any of the Sport models - I don't see any major complaints beyond perhaps that the ride is slightly more unforgiving on the larger (and quite flashy) sport wheels. Post up some pictures when you get it!

I just got the WeatherTech cargo liner, and have to admit-- I'm glad I didn't pay any more than 95 bux for it. It fits, and looks nice, but the rubber material is alot thinner than I expected. We had an older WeatherTech in a family envoy and the difference in quality is pretty significant. Was hoping for a heavier duty rubber for this price. Fit however is second to none, perfect -- PERFECT-- fit.

Hi Marcelo, My last Mustang exhibited the same symptoms and the fix was to replace the main 12v battery. It was performed under the 3year warranty, so if you're not out of your warranty yet-- that might be worth looking at. In addition to the battery light flashing, the initial low-voltage problem (like you said 5 - 10 minutes after you started the car) would trigger other idiot lights on the dash as well. The problem of course being sensors getting out-of-spec readings due to low voltage. Interestingly, when we did a test on the battery -- we came up with the same result (tested ok). I'd look into getting a new 12v battery installed, FWIW - 12.4v is the low limit for an auto battery in good shape... 12.84 seems good in theory - at rest so some more investigation may also be prudent.

Some great looking 'other' rides here. The edge is my do-everything machine, the Z1000 though-- is strictly for going fast =) Ride!

Don't bother having them respray the panel. Give it 2 weeks and you'll have 2 or 3 more on the leading edge of the hood. It's highly likely if they do a full panel respray, you'll find other imperfections that are harder to live with than the small chip there now. I had a few panels done on my 05' mustang by the ford dealer and they were never the same. Just my 2cents.