hunter306

Hi Spongers, I'm not planning on running amplification to the door speakers. The RF's seem to respond well to the limited power of the Pioneer. I wish I got a better picture of the door wiring boot and how it runs from the frame to the actual door panel. I can imagine that running the extra wires through this would be possible, as I see there is a plastic latch that lets you lock in, and unlock the wiring boot from the frame side of the car. If I had to guess, I'd say you could unlock that boot, remove it and push your upgraded wiring through the boot to the inside of the door panel. The bigger challenge might be running it at the frame, but I haven't removed any of the pillar plastics to give a good observation of that process. I agree, if you're running 60+ Amps, the stock wiring may not be adequate. I'm pretty certain it's 18ga wire.

You might find some of the answers you're looking for in my thread. Specifically, I'd recommend that FD1432AB Dash Kit from Scoshe (includes a Pocket if you're only doing a single din unit). There is no remote amp in the non-premium (no sub, no premium audio). Steering wheel controls can be retained with the Metra Axxess Kit. It's way better then the alternative... Immediate button response specifically.

Part 4 (Continued) Door Disassembly Process: Step 1: Pull the door control panel out, this is friction fit, so simply pulling up on the unit will pop it free. Then undo all of the electrical clips. Step 2: Using a mar-free tool, pop the cap off of the upper door fastener behind the door latch handle. Step 3: Pull the door latch outward (as if opening the door) and simply pull the plastic fascia outward -- This is again simply held in with friction clips. Step 4: Remove the Screw in the Door Handle pocket with a appropriate socket. Step 5: Remove 6x (six) phillips head screws from the door edge. The locations are noted in the picture. Step 6: Remove the door panel, starting at the bottom there are two friction clips, pull the door away and these will pop free. As you do this, you fill find the panel stays partially attached by a small friction clip on the top corner (noted in the picture)-- this one requires a very firm pull, but will come free. Step 7: Remove 4 screws from the speaker unit. Pull away from the door, being careful not to damage the speaker leads. The speaker has a thin rubber gasket which may cause it to stick, simply pulling will break this free. Step 7 (Rear Door): Same as Step 7 above, but giving a view of the rear door's configuration. Installing New Stereo Speakers in the Door: This process will vary depending on whether you opt to solder on the new speakers, or if you get the OEM Lead adapters available through Metra. If you do the later, you'll simply clip the wires in place and replace the speaker, if you opt to solder, this process may be helpful for you. Step 1: Reattach the new door speaker backward on the door, using 1 of the factory screws. This will hold the speaker in place while you tin the stereo leads and solder them onto the new speaker! (Note, this is much easier than trying to hold the speaker, soldering iron, solder, etc.) Step 2: Slip on a length of heat shrink tubing, then wrap the stereo lead a solder it to the proper polarity speaker tab. Reference for wire colors/Polarity of the speakers: Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Violet Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue Step 3: Remove the temporary screw, flip the speaker around and reattach the speaker using the existing screw hardware. Step 4: (alternate view for rear door) -- Same process, simply shown finished for the rear doors. Hope this gives you a better understanding of doing the door speaker replacements!

Thanks! Part 4: 6x8" Door Speaker Upgrade As mentioned, the Rockford Fosgate Prime R1682 Speakers came in on Saturday afternoon. It took about 3 hours to do the complete swap from stock to the upgraded speakers. I tried to document the door disassembly process for those who decide to do this as well. Crutchfield lists the R1682's as only fitting in the FRONT doors of the edge, but after reading that there is quite a bit of room in the rear doors, I took a chance and ordered all 4 for replacement. I'll go ahead and say right off the jump, the rears fit just fine... There are NO clearance issues at all with either rolling down the window, or putting the door panel plastic on. The tweeter has an easy 1/4"-1/2" of room of clearance. On to the pictures: Speakers as delivered. Co-Axial 2-way speakers. Filter for the tweeter.

Yep, my 2010 AWD does the same. TiVCT sounds I guess.

Part 3: This is the part where tapped the dimmer wire, attached the chassis ground, and got everything plugged back in. Unfortunately, I did this BEFORE I read about the AM/FM antenna issues, so I'll have to pull it back out to modify the wiring harness for that issue (See part 2 for details on that). Additionally, I've got the Factory Subwoofer box coming from an ebay auction (65 bux!) and 4x Rockford Fosgate Prime R1682 door speakers coming. On to the pictures! First I ran the Bluetooth Microphone. I didn't want to run this to visor, so I tucked it in just the right side of the gauge cluster. So far, in my test the audio is pretty good from this location: Wires running down from the steering column. Then I tapped the 12v dimmer wire, which is really not a 'Dimmer' per-se on the Pioneer, but it does effectively reduce the screen brightness when the interior backlighting flips on.... Very nice for driving in the evening. This is the harness behind the Hazard Lights/Traction Control Buttons. The purple wire is between 2 hot (12v constant) wires and is nearer the driver side of the vehicle. Starting to button everything back up for the time-being (as I said, I'll be back in here to run reverse cam, preamp wires for the new sub, and also correct my AM antenna wire issue. (upcoming). Here's what it looks like with the trim panels back in place! I ended up removing 3mm all the way around the inside (inside the dash side) of the dash-kit's bezel so that the radio would be more flush with the front of the bezel. This effectively moved the radio forward to make it look a little nicer than the deeply recessed position of the un-modified dash kit. Wide angle (notice how well the microphone blends in the gauge cluster, very happy!)

I have to say, I'm really jealous of you guys with the newer Dash Console on the 2011 MY vehicles. Great looking displays from what I've seen in the pictures. It's too bad that the Sync and MSFT systems are causing such problems for you guys. Unfortunately, I'm not sure you gain any real 'Sync' like functionality with this Stereo (not sure it has voice activation, but I haven't really read up on that obscurity). I mostly bought it as I was frustrated with having a new car with the EXACT same radio as my last vehicle. Wanted something a bit nicer for the Edge. Can't wait to get some of the next-steps pictures this afternoon after I get it in the dash.

Well here's part 2: I spent the better part of yesterday evening putting together the harness for the Stereo/Relay/Steering Control. Unfortunately, I seem to have lost my ability to receive AM radio on the new stereo. Who knows what happened there, but testing everything, all I get is static on AM. The old stereo worked for that ? The relay is a standard 12v relay wired to show the 'parking brake' ground for the stereo after the AMP/Power Antenna turn on is activated. Apparently this allows you to retain all of the functionality, regardless of the cars moving situation. EDIT - AM RADIO/FM RADIO RECEPTION. Seems my omission of this wire on the 'Factory' side of the harness is the root of the problem. Will hook it to the PowerAntenna wire this afternoon. I did remove all unnecessary wires from the wiring harnesses to keep things as clean as possible. For example, the Metra Axxess has 12 wires, the Ford implementation only uses 5 of those. The others were removed from the harness to prevent clutter. Since the Edge Factory 24-pin Radio harness has no dimming capability, I just probed the lines that went to the Hazard/Traction Control switches as others have mentioned. The wire is purple and is in the middle of the 6 position harness on the 2010 model (it sits between 2 constant 12v hot lines). Here are some pictures of the harness work:

Hey Guys, I figured I'd post up a thread as I get my new 2010 Edge SEL (without the premium audio, without navigation, without sync) upgraded to a newer TouchScreen stereo. I wanted to help make the next guys life a little easier too, so I'll try and get some good pictures of some things I was personally looking for while I was shopping. First off, here's the parts list. -Pioneer AVH-P3300BT Touch Screen Receiver -- 340.00 -RockFord Fosgate R1682 6x8" door speaker replacements (4 of them) - 102.00 -Metra Axxess ASWC Steering Interface - 39.00 -Pioneer CD-IU50V Ipod Integration cable - 35.00 -Scosche FD1432AB Dash Kit - 15.00 -Scosche FD23B - Non-Premium Audio Wiring Harness - 9.00 -Metra Chrysler Antenna Adapter - 9.00 -12v Standard Auto Relay - 4.00 Total Component Cost, Less Installation Labor: 553.00 Also to come, but not in this first build part. -Backup Cam (to be included later in the project...) So to get started, I wanted to get some really good pictures of the Ford Edge (2010 Non-Premium Audio, Satellite Radio) harnesses. I hope this will help someone see the connection points they have, and those they're going to have to go digging for: Ford 24 Pin Stereo Connector: Ford 16 Pin Can-Bus, Satellite, Aux Connector: Ford 8 Pin 'Subwoofer' Harness (not used in my Stock System, but harness IS present behind the radio in a dummy holder - see first pic): Stereo Chassis Ground Point (easily accessible from the stereo opening): That's all for the moment, I hope this will be some good reference material. Next up, wiring and installation! Check out the next post for details.

3rd on Tarminator. Made a mess of my last vehicle driving down a freshly prepped construction zone. Tarminator made cleanup a SNAP.

May have answered my own question, looks like it's part of the secondary wiring harness on the 6disc stereo. Here's a pinout from a Fusion forum, Going to have to trace these wires to test.

Just curious if anyone is familiar with the wires that you would need to tap to get the factory aux-input jack (in the center console storage bin) wired up to an Aftermarket Stereo? Not a deal-breaker if this is not possible, but it would be cool to use up the extra inputs on the back of my new stereo with the Factory Jack-- Just to retain as much functionality as possible. Thanks!

If I had to guess, it sounds like a Garmin or other manufactures Suction Cup plate. They're usually a 3" round black plastic disc, with a adhesive pad on the bottom. Give you a place to suction cup your GPS to the dashboard, rather than putting it on the windscreen.

Only other Stereo I know of is the Pioneer's 'App Mode' on their 2011 models. That will let you use pandora right on the stereo. I hadn't been aware of any other manufactures that had that feature.

FWIW: I did take it to the dealer, as hopeeholly wrote, they couldn't pull any error codes for a traction control light behavior. Basically, they told me to bring it back in while it was happening (which is highly unlikely) Since then, it only happened one more time, and just like Hopeeholly wrote as well, if you slow down below 30mph, or turn the car off, the flashing quits. I do believe it's just a sensor issue, but I'll have to look into this 'Software Patch' that was mentioned.

Linty, can we assume that the Polks were a absolute drop in replacement? That is, you just unbolt the existing paper cones, and re-bolt the new Polks? I'm putting a AVH-P3300BT in my dash next week, considering doing the door speaker upgrade as well, while I've got things apart.

Cardinal, Any pictures of your Pioneer installation?

All set on this.

Hey Cal, Yep, I've heard that they do break in a bit. Mine was actually a Ford Certified Pre-Owned with 16,000 miles on the odo when I bought it. I suppose 'New' was misleading, It's defniitely new to me =) Regardless, 18.9.... Let's call it 19 for good measure, is still 2mpg better than my 2005 Ford Mustang V6, so I'm quite pleased. Once I refilled today, I blew away the Fuel Economy reading in the computer so I could have it do a fresh calculation. By the time I pulled into the driveway (8 miles from the station) it was reading 26mpg avg. I know that it'll go down, but it's cool to have it calculating on the fly now that I have cleared it out.

Looks like my first half-tank of gas came out to be 18.9mpg on my new 2010 AWD SEL. I calculated it using Miles/Gallons, not the digital display on the dash. Seems pretty much right on the nose for these things. The next tank around, I'm going to see if I can eek 20mpg out of her.

Guess I'll just update, took it in-- They said that it was likely an Anomaly but doesn't actually log a Trouble Code when the light is activated, so theres not really much way to track the issue. I guess when it happens, you're supposed to be able to bring it right to the dealer so they can see it lit up! Seems kinda improbable. Anyway, It hasn't recurred, so I'll just keep my eyes peeled to see if it happens any more.

Posted this over in the 2010 edge section, wondered if anyone has seen this before? I'm new to the whole TCS and RCS systems in the Edge, but yesterday evening coming home I came around a corner over some rough stuff (roads in Michigan, terrible) and then accellerated down the ramp to merge onto the freeway. I notice the TCS 'Sliding Car' icon is flashing on my dash, stays flashing for maybe 60 seconds, then just stays lit? What the heck is that all about? Just picked up the car yesterday, so this could be user error.. Long story short, I took the next freeway exit about a mile up, pulled into a gas station, shut off the vehicle. Keyed it back on and started up. No more 'Sliding Car' light... Anyone know anything? Should I take it back to the dealer? It's only been driven 45 miles since I got it.

I'm new to the whole TCS and RCS systems in the Edge, but yesterday evening coming home I came around a corner over some rough stuff (roads in Michigan, terrible) and then accellerated down the ramp to merge onto the freeway. I notice the TCS 'Sliding Car' icon is flashing on my dash, stays flashing for maybe 60 seconds, then just stays lit? What the heck is that all about? Just picked up the car yesterday, so this could be user error.. Long story short, I took the next freeway exit about a mile up, pulled into a gas station, shut off the vehicle. Keyed it back on and started up. No more 'Sliding Car' light... Anyone know anything? Should I take it back to the dealer? It's only been driven 45 miles since I got it.

Cheers! Took it out for the first real drive this evening and very happy with it.

Just wanted to say hello from Southern Michigan. Just picked up a 2010 Edge SEL AWD and I've got all that new car excitement. Been browsing here for weeks making a decision, decided to try my luck with the AWD, even though I know there have been some complaints here and there with leaks. I guess time will tell! On to the pics, since the thread would be worthless without em'