hunter306

FWIW, If I drive like I used to in my mustang, my 2010 AWD Edge gets an average of 17.5mpg. If I baby it, and drive with fuel economy in mind I see about a 1.5mpg improvement to 19mpg. I don't do enough driving to warrant the extra-easy-on-the-car driving, so I've settled with my 17.5-18.5mpg avg.

I believe you've shed light on the situation right here (no hard feelings, just an observation). It's likely a combination of driving habits/tendencies and the driving conditions (roads, elevation changes, on ramps, off ramps, traffic lights, traffic patterns in your area) that you are traversing. If it were only the explorer with low mileage, I wouldn't be overly shocked, but the Escape and Edge should be getting similar (not the same, mind you, especially with AWD coming into play).

Lots of threads about replacing the audio systems in the Edge, just search the Audio, Navigation & Sync section. In fact, I have created a thread of my process on the 2010 edge. All-in-all it was pretty easy, most time consuming part was adding the Rear Cam, which still was pretty straight forward.

Obviously, I'm discussing this in the context of the situation described in this thread.

Mine must be loose as a goose then. The plastic hooks hold it just fine, but those lower loops that connect the bottom pillar on either side of the drawer slip off without any effort. I use it strictly to carry groceries anyway, so I guess it's not a huge deal-- just a crappy design. Completely agree on the cargo shade, I wanted one until I read how crappy the ford offerring was....

Definitely would press the issue hard if they try and tell you this the same situation as a Windshield. The roof should be covered by the bumper to bumper on a 4-day old vehicle, no questions asked. Please let us know how this turns out...

For What it's Worth, those lower loops that hook to the bottom corner trim-- NEVER stay in place anyway. Only useful loops are the upper black hooks mounted on the interior of the bay, and the lower metal d-rings where the plastic hooks of the cargo net attach. The trim hooks stink and slip off before ever making it home. The cargo net in general is kinda' a joke-- given it's proximity to the door.

I've heard a couple of people mention being disappointed with the AC, normally the fix is to clean out your Cabin Filter from what I gather. Since you already had the truck to the dealer to take care of the cabin filter, I wonder if something is disconnected inside your dashboard? The reason I mention this is because the left side duct that runs up next to the radio on my Edge was not properly clipped into place-- which meant I had a fairly loose fit between the supply duct and the duct that runs up to the dashboard. If you pop the trim piece from the radio off, and then remove the radio unit, you'll be able to see these ducts (both left and right) to verify they're properly clipped into place. Also, I noticed that if I close the rear vents (obviously not an option if you have passengers) you will build a bit more pressure in your system. That was purely unscientific, but no reason to leave them wide open if you're not carrying passengers. Just some thoughts. On mine, I've been impressed at how quickly I get cool air-- but I will agree that you don't quite have that pressure that I've come to expect from some of the other rides I've had.

I took a quick video of mine, for an idea of what it sounds like: Let me know how this compares to yours!

hmmm, clearly I'll need to go back and do some more reading! Assumed that was applicable to all of the edge's w/ the non-sport engines.

Have a 2010 w/ some pretty good tapping when you start it, especially when it's cool. I've been told that these engines are inherantly noisy due to the tivct design. It's got about 17k miles on it now, and the sound is the same as it always have been. I think others have mentioned the engine being noisy as well, unless you're hearing something more than all the rest of us.

Roughly speaking, it's pretty easy to do the job-- it's just a little time consuming disassembling and mounting the camera in the rear. I just installed one in my 2010 Edge w/ Pioneer Non-Navi system. First, I used this camera: http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLCM24IR-Universal-Infrared-Commercial/dp/B003C23PPK/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1308584004&sr=8-13 On the camera, I purchased it directly from china through an ebay seller for 13 dollars. It's not 'night-vision' capable since it doesn't have infrared illumination leds, but it's a good camera for the cost. The housing looks nice too, which I thought was a plus. On the installation: 1) Remove the 4 screws on the bottom edge of your interior hatch plastic. 2) Remove the interior hatch plastic which is now only held on with friction clips (you can pop the ones nearest the edge, then the rest come free pretty easily) 3) Remove the 6 or so nuts that hold the trim panel onto the outside of the hatch. You will also see that there is a 12v wire running through this (gasketed) for the plate lights, pop it free and disconnect the clip on connector inside. 4) Remove the exterior hatch trim panel (with the 2 plate lights in it). You'll be mounting your rearview camera on this panel. (On the 2007, I think the hatch button was in this panel... so you may need to remove the hatch button wiring as well). 5) Mount your rearview camera to the bottom of the trim panel as near to center as you can get. (Two screws should suffice for this, it's very light) 6) Run the camera wires up through the back of the exterior trim panel, through the wire clip (on the inside of the exterior trim panel) and finally through the existing gasket. 7) You will need to cut the existing gasket and use it as your path for the camera power/video wires... If you don't want to do this, you can make a new hole in the hatch--- but be sure to properly gasket the new hole. 8) Once you've figured out your wire path to get back inside the rear hatch, you'll need to fasten the 6 nuts back on the exterior trim panel from the INSIDE of the hatch. Reinstall the gasket w/ wires as well. 9) Depending on how you want to power the camera (constantly, or on a switch, you'll need to find a 12v source). Conveniently, the rear windshield wiper motor provides a +12v switched source, as well as ground. On the 2010, the wires were black (for negative/ground) grey (positive 12v switched w/ the ignition). This way, the camera always has power when the cars on (means you can view the source at anytime, vs. only viewing it when the car is in reverse-- nice for trailering). 10) Tap and insulate your 12v source wires, and hook up your video lead. You may want to tape this so the RCA connectors don't pull apart with thermal expansion/contraction. 11) Remove the upper trim plastic by simply pulling away from the hatch, it's all friction mounted. 12) Run the video lead (single rca cable) following the wires up around the window, all the way to the flexible conduit where the wire loom passes from the hatch to the main cabin of the truck. 13) Push the video lead through the flexible conduit, you'll probably need to work it through slowly-- but it will fit. You will need to remove both ends of the rubber flex conduit from the respective locations on the hatch and the cabin. 14) Feed the bulk of the wire through the conduit into the upper headliner, and reinstall the gasketted connections at both the cabin and the hatch. 15) Pull the video lead from the headliner up along the drivers side edge where the headliner meets the plastic trim at the top of the doors, pillars, etc. The wire should be able to be pressed right into the crevice there, and it will sit on top of the headliner. If you want, you can remove the trim panels at the top of the door by simply pulling. 16) Remove the front pillar trim from the drivers side (it's friction fit, run the video wire down along the same path as the existing wire loom, into the upper part of the driver side dash. Reinstall the pillar trim afterward. 17) Now, you've got your wire inside the dash board, this is a simple feat of reaching up under the steering column and routing the wire appropriately so it is not pinched by the adjustable column all the way to the center console. 18) Plug it into your AUX in on the pioneer, and you're in business! Turn the ignition key to 'ON' and test your new cam. Hope that helps!

I've not experienced this at all since the first day that I had the car. I do attribute the problem to the road conditions and the speed at which I was driving. It seems that this can occur if one wheel gets an odd sensor reading, so that may indeed be a viable solution.

Ahhh, those Brighton Roundabouts really stink... We hate navigating them getting off the freeway there. Anyway, what type of radio did you originally have? Was it the OEM 6-disc changer? Navi system?

Well, sorry I've been absent for a few weeks on this. I did the Reverse Camera installation this weekend and I'm really happy with the results... Will try to post up my steps this evening (took over 30 pictures doing it!) To answer some questions about this install: Danbabin-- Thanks for the compliments, I'm no pro on Canadian shipping so I'll let someone else chime in on a potential source for your stealthbox. wkevingossett-- The Metra Axxess is in my opinion, Flawless. I didn't have to do ANY manual programming. Wired it up, it autodetected my edge and the stereo and it works. It also works FAST, it doesn't have any delay when you hit the steering controls-- operates just like it did with the stock stereo. nextime-- If it's any consolation, I replaced the rear hatch badge with a 2011 Logo =) -- I really liked the new edge logo so I swapped my old one out. Hopefully you'll find some good resources here on the forums for your install!

Got 19.3 (calculated by miles/gal method - not the computer). Computer was reading 20.1mpg on the dash. Does everyone reset their MPG reading on the dash for each tank? Or do you allow it to persist between tanks?

Might be worth trying this: Disconnect your Battery lead for about 10 minutes, then reconnect it. You'll probably have to reset your clock and presets, of course. I wonder if the transmissions 'adaptive' learning functions have picked up a bad habit and you're expriencing it in certain highway situations. I propose this because I tried it on my 05' mustang and it seemed to relearn the shift behaviors everytime the battery was disconnected. Cheap fix maybe? No guarantees.

I specifically asked about this when I was purchasing mine given all the issues with the AWD's PTU, and the Dealer said the PTU *WAS* covered under the 5year PowerTrain warranty. Take it to a different dealer, sounds like this one is trying to get out of doing the work.

Man, I hate to say it... but 7k miles and no oil change? Why wait for the idiot light?? I'd say max to go on the dealer junk is 5k, time to get it to the local lube place and get the oil changed!

Factory Sub is a 9" Subwoofer (kind of an oddball size), Just got mine opened up, testing each voice-coil (it is dual voice coil) I get 2.7ohms measured for each individual. I did order an 8" Polk Audio to replace the stock, but it appears it's just a hair too small to fit without an adapter ring, so I may be going up to a 10 inch and making it work =)

FYI, you might have a look at my thread below-- I upgraded my 2010 SEL with the Basic 6 disc audio system. I'm going pretty much through the whole process on here.

Quick Update on this!: Popped open the rear quarter (kick) panel in the cargo compartment, was relieved to find the stock sub wiring harness was intact. Got a few pictures of the layout of the stock subwoofer harness for reference. Also, the stock subwoofer box I bought has arrived-- clearly someone attempted to do their own custom install with an 8" subwoofer in it. Otherwise, it's in good condition. No amplifier included at the 50 dollar price, but the stock paper-cone sub was included. Decided that the plastic enclosure was the only thing I'll end up using, so out came the stock speaker and in will go a Polk Audio DB 840 DVC. Powering it with Rockford Fosgates new mini subwoofer amp (150watts at 2ohms, which is what I'll be running). Sub diagram (posted here by someone else, as reference of the box I'll be recycling):

Also quite enjoying my 2010 Edge SEL AWD. Bought it as a CPO w/ 16k miles on it. Gas Mileage is pretty much average, I do a lot of really short 2 mile jaunts as I live right in town. Very pleased with the ride and comfort of the interior. No real complaints otherwise, though I think it's goofy that the rear hatch glass doesn't open independent of the whole hatch...

I just realized, this is like the F150. You're exactly right, remove that panel and there is a single bolt behind it.

Spongers, I did some additional research, I think this is the boat we're going to be in for running 'new' wires to the doors. If you look, it appears Ford is doing a molex style connector to facilitate fast attach/detach during assembly and replacement. This thread is regarding the F150, but the door connectors in my Edge look the SAME. http://carstereotalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=124&t=451