SoMdLimited

the total bill came in at less than $400, so out of pocket cost was much more acceptable Sorry, i wasn't very clear. Dealer charged $367. Ford covered $300. My cost $67.

After looking into replacing it myself and more YouTube "fixes", I contacted Ford (Pauline) at 1-800-392-3673. We spoke for a few minutes, and she confirmed my vehicle and it's history with the dreaded latch. She told me that Ford would offer $300 toward the replacement at my dealer. I contacted them a few days later and the service writer told me they had been notified by Ford. Took it in and the total bill came in at less than $400, so out of pocket cost was much more acceptable. I realize mechanical/electrical parts will fail, but for everyone that's dealt with this frustrating experience, short of a recall or extending the warranty, this gesture by Ford is a good move.

Dealer wants $300+ to perform TSB15-0013 that cost $104 1 1/2 years ago. Nearly $500 to replace. I know this issue has been beat to death, but this should not be my problem. It's Ford's problem, and they know full well it is. I'll replace it myself.

WWW - I posted recently about the "door ajar" indicator problem returning (http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10869-door-ajar-warning-on-at-all-times/). Now, also in the past few days, I've had the "shift to park" message a couple of times now, plus a CD in the player that won't budge (eject) . The CD player has only been used a few times in 5 years (mostly iPod or Sirius for music). Any thoughts/suggestions? Thanks.

Showed up again over the past month or so. Disappointing, but not surprised. Overall, in spite of a few minor things, my experience with this Edge has been flawless.

For anyone else out there in the market for new rubber, I was very pleased with the OEM Pirelli Scorpion STR's. With regular rotation, proper inflation and reasonable driving habits (it is an Edge not a Mustang GT after all), I got over 70,000 miles from them, and I hope for similar results from this set.

Update: I had the dealer service mine under TSB-15-0013 September 2015 (8 months), and I've had no issues since the service was performed.

My answer to the 1st question is yes, I really like my Edge. The answer to #2 is no, I likely won't buy another. I say that because I may want to change things up. Drive something different, perhaps sportier. But until then, assuming my Edge (2011, 77k miles) continues to be relatively trouble free, I have no intentions of parting ways. As to the new Edge, I am not crazy about the body style changes on the new models (too Hyundai Santa Fe-like). I might even consider a Lincoln. Perhaps by the time I'm due to replace, Ford will revamp again more to my liking.

I'm at around 65,500 miles on the original Pirelli's, and have been very satisfied. I would consider going back to them as a replacement, but as always, I'll do my research. Andy - would you mind updating your review when you get a few thousand miles on the Falken's? Thanks. I bought a set of General G-Max AS-03 (all season) for my wife's Camaro, and have been happy with them over the OEM Pirelli P-Zero's (summer tire). I realize it's apples/oranges with the Edge vs Camaro, but I will see what they offer.

My 63 Chevy Impala SS with tunnel ram, about 1970-71 My 2006 Malibu SS, nothing special My favorite funny car driver Jungle Jim Lieberman from the late 60's

With the exception of my current Edge, and a mistake with a 1989 Aerostar, I have always been a GM guy. In fact, my wife drives a 2010 Camaro. Thought she was going to croak when I told her I wanted a Ford. First car was a 57 Chevy 210 sedan, that I never drove but sold to an uncle for local stock car racing. Second car was a 57 Chevy Belair, 2dr 6 cylinder auto. As a 16 year old, I worked at an ESSO gas station, and this older couple were regular customers. I bugged them to death about that car....finally they agreed to sell it to me for $400. (1968 or 69) It was definitely a cool ride just as it was. Never modified it, and to tell you the truth, can't recall what I did with it. Then, I bought a 63 Chevy Impala SS. That was a badass car. Had the 327/365 motor reworked, and was setting it up for drag racing. I put 5:38 gears in it, so it was a "how many gallons to the mile" car. But hey, at 42 cents a gallon for Sunoco 260, who cared? First actual new car purchase: 1972 Vega, 4 banger 4 speed, some kind of green color. Wasn't the GT, but I optioned it up with wheels and whatever. That was actually a fun car. Cheaply made, but fun. I know I'm drifting off topic - but there have also been: 1969 Olds 442, 1970 Monte Carlo, 1969 and 1070 Chevelle's, 1974 Toyota Celica (how'd that get in here?), 1994 Trans Am, 2006 Malibu SS, 1995 Olds Cutlass Cierra, 1990 Pontiac 6000, along with a Chevy and GMC pick-up. To compare the Vega, or any of the others to my current Edge is the old apples/oranges thing. All the cars I've owned were the right car for me at the time. I've enjoyed driving all of them -- with the exception of the dreaded Aerostar. There is nothing to compare to the quality and reliability of today's vehicles. They are so much more complex, and they can be a handful to diagnose and repair for sure. But my Edge has been a great car. As you can see, I don't generally keep 'em long. In fact, at a little over 4 years since I purchased my Edge, it may be close to the longest I've ever kept one. No plans to look for something new, although I might not pass a lie detector test.

2011 FWD. I can manage winter driving (up to 4" snowfall) just fine. Above 4" - I'm not going out anyway.

Red, I didn't see in your post if your Edge has the door ajar light issue (and related problems with getting the doors to lock) or not. It sounds like yours may be a different issue. Thought I'd share this if you haven't already bailed out on the Edge. From the FWIW department, I've been to the dealer and they performed the service as required on TSB 15-0013. I stated in an earlier post that I wasn't pleased with this because I'd read that the fix is temporary. It's been about a month, and so far things are working great, doors locking/unlocking as they are supposed to with the key fob or key pad on the door. It's worth a try at the dealer, and while mine was covered under extended warranty ($100 deductible) the dealer charge was $103 - so wow, the ext. warr. "saved" me $3. I think if you had to pay $103 out of pocket, that's still reasonable. I agree there is a safety issue with this, and the NHTSB has a place that you can report your problem, it will be a while (or never) before this becomes a safety recall. This is a longstanding and well documented problem with the lock/switch assembly, and Ford hasn't done anything about it.

Posted this elsewhere today: I have now joined the club with this issue. 2011 Limited. Started at around 60k miles, and now for approximately 4 months, mysterious openings of the rear hatch, alarm going off, door ajar light on - like the car was possessed. I've wondered if it was my inadvertent hitting of the rear door release on the fob instead of the lock button when I came out of a store to find the hatch up. Anyway, I've researched the issue, found the cause, and found all sorts of DIY fixes. To date (spanning over 1 1/2 months) I've tried WD40 (no good) and the brake cleaner (hit or miss success). I've tried closing the driver's side with the passenger's door open, windows down, etc., in an attempt to relieve pressure when the door is closed. That too, hit or miss. Never tried electrical parts cleaner. Finally got it into the dealer yesterday for repairs, and they have called to say it's been "repaired" it under TSB 15-0013 guidelines. I notified Ford of this problem for their documentation as well. I'll pick it up from the dealer later today. I've read the TSB 15-0013 procedure (that has been discussed here in earlier posts), and it amounts to spraying a cleaner and actuating the switch 20 times while connected to a diagnostic tool. From what I have read from others experience, this may not be a permanent fix to a long standing and well know issue with the switch/latch mechanism. I am not happy with Ford's position and resolution to this known defect. I have an ESP, so it will cost me the $100 deductible for what I believe will not fix the problem long term. Only a full latch replacement will do that. I am posting this in advance of getting my Edge back on the road. But there have been so many documented problems with these switches, I wanted to alert others to my experience going to the dealer and the process there to continue the dialog that may be of help to others.