shumax

Thanks for the reply! I had the alignment performed - camber was out causing it to pull left. That's been corrected - no pull. Got the tires balanced - road force figures are around 17lbs and the rim runout was fine. Tires are installed correctly, too. Lugs tight as well. Around 72-80mph I get an odd wobbling of the steering wheel that comes and goes. One moment, no wobble. The next, a very slight wobble you can see and feel in the wheel. Smooth roads, too. Very odd. Condition was not there before this work. Possible that everything is tight up there and it needs to settle in? Not sure. Look forward to everyone's thoughts! Shumax.

Picked the Edge up today. Wow! It's so much quieter on the road and over rough surfaces. Also feels far more planted and does not float around at speed. He didn't end up replacing the sway bar bushings as he said they looked new and it would be a waste. So, I can return those and collect $30 back. All in, I had $742 in parts, including the two new Moog LCA's. Labor was $450. So, just under $1,200 and it's completely refreshed. The only issue I ran into was a slight wobble in the steering wheel. If I let go of it around 45-60mph, it slightly wobbles. It wasn't doing that when I took it in. Also, I swapped the snow tires on it and it was still doing it. It's very slight. Normally I would suspect a tire/wheel that's not balanced, but swapping the snow tires on eliminates that theory. Perhaps it goes away as it settles, or with the alignment? Any thoughts on that? Shumax

Can someone give me a photo of where the PTU fill hole is? I am thinking about opening it up, pumping out what's there and replacing it with new. The seal was replaced on mine at 50k, so I suspect they put new fluid in then. It now has 113,500 on it. I think replacing it again would be a good idea. Thanks, Shumax

Another thought - should I race right up and have the alignment done, or drive it 100 miles and let it settle? Shumax

That's the plan! Bolts arrive Monday around 2pm. Those and the arms go in Monday night/Tuesday. Align it Wednesday. Parts totaled around $650. Labor was $450. Alignment is $49. That's a chunk of change, for darn sure. Especially this time of the year. BUT, it should ride like a new car. Has newer tires, plugs and coolant are done. Maintenance is set now for the rest of its life with us. Has 113,500 on it now and want to see 160,000 (3-5 years) before we buy a slightly used one to repeat the process. The only thing I worry about is the body starting to rot out. Thanks again! Shumax

Any idea if those are the correct bolts, for sure? Much to my surprise, the arms should arrive later today, according to FedEx. Wow! Now, I am faced with a choice - wait for the bolts to arrive on Monday late afternoon and do the work Tuesday? Or, chance it and see if they fit. I found conflicting information on the net about the OEM bolts not fitting the welded on nuts located on the arms, so my gut tells me I should wait and see if they thread in. Otherwise, they will tear the car apart and then find out. Having said that, it would be nice to get the car back, snow tires on, aligned and back on the road for my wife. Shumax

Ended up needing new control arms. Got the MOOG parts on order from Rock Auto. RK620487 and 486 for $143.72 shipped. Get here Wednesday. Also bought the bolts - hope they are correct!? W712734-S439 and W712850-S439. Two of the first and four of the second since I have both arms to do. Bolts cost me $15 from my local dealer; here Monday. I sure hope this all goes in without much of an issue. The last thing I want is $1k in parts and then have it be nothing but silent and smooth! They are doing the struts, front and rear sway bar bushings and the rear shocks and rear stab links today. Front stab links were done in June of this year, so I'm not replacing them again. I'll have to drive it a week without the alignment done as I'll go back when the control arms are in to have those replaced. Align after that. Hopefully it doesn't eat my tires in a week - probably only put a hundred miles on in that time... Shumax

MAC, thanks again for the reply. I've decided to move forward with all of it. I've actually had sway bar bushings go bad on a Fusion and an Explorer. Led to a knocking of the bar against the metal mount - hard to miss! Since they are inexpensive, and the labor wasn't much, I'm going to have them done since they will be "in there." I've tested the ball joints this summer by jacking the car up by the frame and control arm and then sticking a long iron bar under the tire. There was no play. So, I assume they are fine. Is there another way to test them? I've had those go bad on an Explorer, too, and it led to a nasty vibration that came and went. If they need replaced, I'll buy the MOOG LCA's and be done with it. I'll also be sure to get the bolts as I did see your video on that - looked painful. Thanks again for the direction. Shumax

Glad you responded, Mac. The front has newer MOOG sway bar links - they probably have 4k of use on them. So, I would hope they can be used again - no? Doing just the front struts and strut mounts takes my parts total to around $220, plus shipping. I would suspect I can have those installed for $175. So, I'm into it for around $400. Wonder what LCA's go for - loaded with the ball joint already in them? I've seen you replace the rear shocks a few times - seems like maybe you got 50-75k out of a set? Given that, I guess I'm surprised to hear you suggest not replacing them given 113k on the vehicle. Am I reading that wrong? The sway bar BUSHINGS (front & rear) are not pricey - $40 for all four. Maybe I do that - replace the front struts and strut mounts along with the front sway bar bushings and call it a day. I'd have just over $400 into that, I would think. That's where the noise is anyway. I could always have the rear done at a later time, if needed. Shumax

Update: So, I sourced all the above parts for $591 delivered to my house. I have someone willing to put them all in for $350. My question? The car has 113,000 miles on it. There is one area of road that I drive over every day where I get a "pop" high in the front end. I suspect the strut bearings given I replaced the front sway bar links already. Other than that, the car is generally quiet over uneven surfaces. I can tell it floats a bit, probably more than I think in all actuality. There is no uneven wear on any of the tires from worn parts, either. My concern is this: I live by the "if it's not broken, don't fix it" rule. Nothing is really "broken," per se. So, I'm starting to second guess pouring nearly $1k into the suspension. My fear is that it will make "something" worse. What that "something" is, I don't know. I've had cars before where I replace suspension parts and suddenly another part is faulty as a result of the new part being stronger and stressing the other older part. I have held off on this "refresh" since the summer as I knew I would get it aligned when I put the snow tires on, which will happen in another week or two. So, here I am - two weeks out from snow tires and an alignment and I'm thinking it through. If all I get is a knock, as described, do you just replace the front struts, have it aligned with the snow tire installation and move on? Or, do you have everything done since you are "in there" and save on the alignment needing to be done again? 113,000 miles and we plan to keep it another 3 years and we average 10k a year. Debate away... Shumax

Update: Purchased two key fobs from "remotesremotes" for $55, plus shipping. Yes, two. They are generic, but worked fine. Took them to my dealer who cut them for free. They owed me a favor, so they also programmed them for free, too. Cost me $60 to get it all take care of, including the two new key fobs. Major score! Thanks for the advice, all! Shumax

Thanks for the replies, all. I talked to my dealer and am cashing in a "favor" to have the second and third key programmed. Sounds like they will charge me $5 to cut them. So, I'm going to use one of the links above to buy two keys. Thanks again - I appreciate the help! Shumax

My wife and I misplaced the key fob to our 2007 Ford Edge SEL AWD. So, we are down to one key fob and that's it. Yikes. What's the best course of action for me in this situation? I.E., where can I locate a key that will work and that is reasonably priced? From there, do I need to go to the dealer to have them program it since I don't have the second key to be able to do it myself? I.E., I thought I read you need both keys to add a third? In my case, I only have ONE key, so I feel like I might be in a bad spot. Also, could I purchase a "blank" key with the "chip" in it and have it cut? Where is the best place to source these two options? My dealer owes me a "favor," so I feel like I could talk them into programming it for free/very little. I would just like to be able to avoid buying a key/having them cut it. As an aside, I do have an old four button key from a 2008 Ford Fusion. It's been cut, though, so I doubt that's an option. Thoughts? Thanks in advance! Shumax

It is most definitely NOT the lane keeping system. I "tried" that out on the road and the steering wheel, combined with the vibration I am referring to made a very noticeable shake. This has nothing to do with the lane keeping system. I guess the only thing for me to do is buy one but not take delivery until I've had a chance to drive it. If it shakes, refuse to take delivery. Shumax

So, when you are on smooth road and let go of the steering wheel at 50-75mph, it doesn't tremble one bit? Rock solid smooth?

That's not good to hear. That drives me nuts and is something that would completely steer me away from buying the vehicle, unfortunately. If it were balance, I would think it would do it all of the time. The fact it is intermittent, would tell me it's something else.

I've driven three 2015 Edges. A Titanium AWD for about 30 miles; an SEL FWD for 2,000 miles and a Sport AWD for 30 miles. The Titanium and the Sport both had an issue with the steering wheel vibrating at speed. From about 55-75mph (as high as I went), the steering wheel would tremble. If you let go of it and looked, you could see it shaking. Normally, I would think that's a tire balance issue, but I find it odd it happened on both. This isn't flat spotted tires, either. When we pulled off the lot, it was shaking like crazy from that issue. Within 3-4 miles, that went away - could feel it in the front and the back on both cars as we pulled off the lot. Now, the SEL FWD did not shake hardly at all. Only one time did I detect a slight bit of vibration, but that could have been the road, honestly. Has anyone else noticed this? I.e., get the car on smooth road and at about 55-60mph, let go of the steering wheel. Does is shimmy/dance side-to-side? I was dead set on buying a 2015 Sport, but won't tolerate a shimmying steering wheel. I've had horrible experiences with this on other vehicles and don't want to spend $47k to have it happen again. The vehicle itself is a beast. Even with AWD, it pulls hard. Also, the sound it makes is very athletic - sounds almost like it has a Cold Air Intake, but it doesn't. Very throaty and it pulls hard. Not what I expected, to be honest. Look forward to your thoughts on the above - especially if you have one and can go test it out and report back. Thanks, Shumax

Macbwt, didn't you saw you were embarking on this quest, too, on one of your newer Edges? Shumax

Thanks. Yes, the AWD does have a rear sway bar/links/bushing. I looked underneath just to be sure.

I mentioned this was coming, but it's time now. Here is what I am looking at and would appreciate someone letting me know if I am missing something: Ford: Stabilizer Bar Bushing - front. Part number 7T4Z05484-A. $10.09. I assume you are buying one; they aren't packaged as two. Stabilizer Bar bushing - rear. Part Number 7T4Z-5493-AA. $4.97. I assume you are buying one; they aren't package as two. Lower Seat for front spring - part number 7T4Z-5A307-A. $16.61. Need two. Bumper for front strut - part number 8T4Z-18198-A. $5.05. Need two. Rock Auto: KYB Shock - 349068 GR-2. $79.58 for two, total. Stabilizer bar link - REAR. MOOG K750184. $83.98 for two, total. Motorcraft Strut - AST868 for the LEFT. AST867 for the RIGHT. $164.68, total. Motorcraft Strut mount - AD1050 - need two. $65.58 for two, total. I want to be sure there aren't quirks with the AWD as it relates to the sway bar bushings. I didn't see any notes. Thoughts? Also, the front stab links were replaced with Moog parts a few months ago, which is why they are not listed above. Any thoughts on using another brand of struts and strut mounts in the front? I'm into this for $468. I found an ASE certified mechanic that will do this "on the side" for $350, cash. I'm considering paying him as I know it will take me a day and a half to do it myself. His rate seems very, very good. Anything I've missed, or I should add? The AWD is what throws me just a bit. Rock Auto doesn't even recognize it, so I want to be sure I have the right parts. Should ride like new after all of this. Currently has 110k on the clock and we plan to drive it another 3 years, at least as we average Thanks, Shumax

Does anyone know if the 2011 Ford Explorer 20" polished rims will fit a 2015 SEL/Titanium AWD Edge? They will NOT fit a 2007 Edge; I tried. Thanks! Shumax

Has this issue been resolved on the line? If so, what build date is considered "ok" and free from this issue? Thanks, Shumax

Good perspective - thanks! Look forward to you "how to" on the front struts?

Thanks for the reply, sir! Question: Have you not used Motorcraft parts as replacements for a reason? I ask because my theory was they lasted 107k, why not plug them back in as a replacement? Sounds like I will use KYB in the rear, but I had planned for Motorcraft struts and struts bearings. Just looking for your thought process there. As long as my wife doesn't start complaining about it being worse, I likely won't tackle this until November when I put the stow tires on. I planned to do it then as I have the car aligned then, anyway, because of the installation of the snow tires/rims. Thanks again for your efforts here and with the videos! Shumax

Also, I am noticing that I can't find OEM rear shocks. It's either Monroe or KYB. If that is indeed the case, which would you all go with? In the videos, it appears a Monroe part did not make it that long. Thoughts? Thanks!