candurin

Feeling nostalgic. I remember the first "autostick" I drove was my buddy's Eagle Vision back in the mid 90's (it was his father's actually). That car was on Olds looking Mitsubishi knockoff sedan and we had a blast taking that thing back and fourth from school.

Ugh... double post.

And yet, in the winter I need to refill it weekly (if not daily).

So, I just noticed that the area under the radio (the never used padded space in front of the center console) is lit via the ambient lighting. Just FYI.

The ebay 3M mount? I did see it got somewhat decent reviews. Thanks for answering my off topic questions. I may have derailed this thread.

I've been reading all the forums, vortex reviews, veil guy, etc (I've been a small RD enthusiast for some time). I do see the R1/R3 does have some issues (lack of range, detection) but some of those same users report that a replacement unit has solved it. All brands have issues, so I comes up to best bang for the buck. I'm not a fan of escort live. I have yet to ever see a reported live radar and there actually be a LEO there. Waze does a much better job of police and camera reporting. How did you mount the uniden? Blendmount hasn't released the bracket for the R1/R3 yet and some of the ebay solutions are a bit wonky.

How do you like the R3 so far? I'm thinking about it or the Redline EX (upgrading an old x50).

If I'm not mistaken, you want the shifters for your train horn and not for gear shifting, correct? As much as I disagree with your project, the wiring would be less involved.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=icnRMW6P9nc If I were you, I'd mount them inside the car, in the rear cargo area. You should be able to enjoy them more than anyone else.

Here's the location for the LEDs for ambient lighting: · Cupholders (located in the center console) · Storage compartment(s)/map pocket (located in the center console) · Front footwells (located under the instrument panel) · Rear footwells (located in the rear of the center console) · Inside pull handles (located in each door trim panel) · Door map pockets (located in each door trim panel) The LED you're referring to is inside the center console itself. There isn't an LED below the radio/under the center cluster panel in front of the center console. I will say that that area (which has a rubberized pad) is a very strange area. I haven't used it in over 5 years! It would appear as though the cut wires are for your cupholder LED lights.

Did you trace the wires back further from the LED modules in the cup holders?

That response deserved a spoiler alert! Clearly, the old owner didn't like the cup holder LED's. Just FYI, there's only two led modules (as indicated in the diagram). One for the rear of the back cup holder and another that illuminates both the front of the back cup holder and rear of the front cup holder.

Wow... At least there will be no doubt that you drive an Edge.

Sorry... had to ask. It's like when you call any computer support line and they ask you to reboot it. It may be as simple as jmr said, someone opened the console and never plugged the lights back in. Very easy to remove lower console. Just need socket wrench (10mm I think) and a torx bit).

Do you have the ambient lighting turned on (settings > vehicle > ambient lighting) and bright enough to see it? Can you see the lighting inside the center console, door pockets and behind the door handles?

What exactly is not working?

The cup holders are illuminted only as part of the ambient lighting package (front and back of cup holder closest to center console and rear of cup holder closest to radio). On the shift selector panel, to the left of selector knob, they are all illuminated the same blue/white color and they do not change color nor indicate which gear you are in. That is only indicated on instrument panel, above the steering wheel.

HIR2 is just a different version of the 9012 bulb. It was a change made in 2012. It will fit your 2011 as a plug and play bulb.

HIR2 is a 9012 bulb

Sounds like a roof antenna issue. The roof antenna carries the am/fm signal, while the Sirius antenna is mounted above the instrument cluster.

Ford had something in the works: https://why-update-ford.azurewebsites.net/index.html

That would be a great way to save some money. But, you'll have to program it yourself (very easy to do). You want to try and grab one from a flex, Taurus, explorer or edge. As long as it is a recessed screen (ford versions, the screen part number ends in "-SC), you'll be fine to add your mounting brackets from your existing unit. Here's more info: https://www.4dtech.com/replacement-touchscreen-assembly-for-sync-3/ You can also find some lincolns as well. Just look for the recessed screen.

So, I'm not entirely sure what the actual issue is. Can you not program the fobs or do they disconnect all the time? Here's the procedure I used for programming the button/fob portion of my IKTs. Procedure : 1.Close all doors, then open drivers door and press the Unlock button on drivers door while it is open, insert key into ignition. 2.Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 8 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming mode. (if the door locks do not cycle, then it was done incorrectly. You must start over by removing key and beginning from step 1) (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.) 3.Within 10 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. If you only have one remote then skip to step 5. 4.Within 10 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 4. for all other remotes. 5.Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.

Sorry, Nick. Wording was poor on my part. I wasn't trying to insinuate that it should be done. I guess I read incorrectly, I thought the issue was the other way around. I have some LED flashlights (quite a few actually, it's becoming an issue) that can throw really damn far. So, clearly it's a poor projector design. I have some that I use for flood effect and others I use for throw.

For anyone else... For the APIM module 7D0-01-02, the last series of 4 digits, make the "Y" an A and it will enable travel link (it will disable multi-contour seats, which older cars won't have anyway). 7D0-01-02 xxxx xxxx xYxx