androck238

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I just woke up the other morning and tried to start my Edge and it was flat dead. Jumped it and it started just fine. I came home last night and started my parasitic draw test. I was hovering around 750 mA current draw with the vehicle off and keys out of ignition. Started pulling fuses and when I finally got to Fuse #5, it dropped to 30 mA. Fuse #5 is listed as: Keypad illumination, 2nd row seat, brake shift interlock I looked at the following wiring diagram: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=177393, but still can't figure out what could be drawing that much current. The only thing I can think of is an after market security system I had installed. When the car is remote started, if I don't put the key in the ignition and press the brake the car shuts off, so somehow the system must be tied into the brake shit interlock system? Anybody got any better suggestions of things to check? Thanks.

I recently purchased a Hood Deflector for my 2010 Ford Edge SEL from my local Ford dealership, part #7T4Z-16C900-A. I got it the other day and went to installing it. Followed the directions to a "T", even used my torque screw driver to make sure I was only torquing the screws to 10 in/lbs as per the directions. Got all of the holes drilled and the screws installed. Went to shut my hood and it wouldn't shut. Open the hood to try and determine what was causing the issue and noticed that pretty much every single "tab" where the screws attached was spidered, some completly cracked with pieces that had fallen off. So I removed all of the screws and took off the deflector and in the process, basically every tab broke or spidered to the point where if I were to touch it it would break. I called the Dealership this morning to tell them about this and to see if I can get another one ordered, but I'm a little leary that this is going to be a re-occurring issue, not to mention that if that little impact from closing the hood/installing screws to 10 in/lbs cracks the plastic, what is the deflector going to do if a rock hits it. Anyways, I'm curious if this was just a fluke deal, maybe a plastic defect from the factory or if anybody has had any issues with the factory ford hood deflectors. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for confirming that. It's hard to tell looking at the other switches whether or not they are supposed to light up or not. I pulled the front passenger switch body off the door last night, and there is just an electrical connector. If there is a bulb or something, I guess it would be buried deep in the switch body itself. Doesn't look like it would be user replaceable if there was one. Hopefully Ford's goal wasn't to replace the entire switch just to change a bulb if it is suppose to illuminate.

I have a 2010 Ford Edge SEL and I was just noticing tonight that the four window switches on the driver arm rest are all illuminated, however the window lock switch is not. Also noticed that the passenger power window switch and the two rear door power window switches are not illuminated. Is this as designed?

I just ordered a set of Chrome Door Handles (9T4Z-7822404-AA) for my 2010 Ford Edge SEL. Installation was a breeze, however, the front and rear door on the passenger side did not have the T20 Torx handle re-inforcement screw. Instead the front passenger door had a crosstip screw, and the rear passenger door had a 1/4" hex head screw. Well needless to say, neither one would tighten down enough to fully secure the bezel. So both bezels on the right side can be pulled out if you were to pull on them. I am curious if anybody knows what the factory re-enforcement screw size/pitch/length is? I'm hoping I can just run to the hardware store to pick up a couple SS screwes to use and not have to order two from Ford (not terribly expensive, but something like 1.25 a screw). I'm just hoping whoever the knucklehead was that put those in didn't strip the threads in the door, which in that case I guess I could probably drill and tap for a larger screw. Thanks in advance!