2011edgese

Similar situation to my 2011 edge se. Misfire above 4000rpm. Turned out it was worn plugs. Only 72000 miles. They claim 100k miles is the life but its not true. I changed them and no more misfire.

Lol! Man, Ford should treat us better with this issue. I got lucky, my front DS and PS both have me the ajar withing the 2 years bought. I used a sh*t losd of C&C electrical cleaner spray. I sprayed 1 whole can on each door. Aimed the straw from every angle. Hit it from the door latch, pulled the door handle and squeezed the stray of the openings snd finally sprayed through the window slot from above aiming at the door latch area. Just sprayed it until the can ran out. The DS instantly fixed itself while the PS side took 2 more cans. Eventually the PS behaved and it worked. Its been over 2 years the DS has worked and about 10 months the PS has stayed off. I noticed the PS comes one sgain during hot days but stays always off during the rainy season. Give that can a go at it! Might be surprised. But the key is to spray the whole CAN and from all possible angles.

Yep, agree tp spme extent. Whays bothering me is how some have claimed iy due to not getting the original master key and possibly a clone.seems to be behaving as one. And then saying the only fix is a new 3rd key while others had it fone through a simple programming. Ill pay for a programming of 90.00$. But 300$? Seems a lot.

The Oreilly Auto parts guy said its not uncommon to see dead batteries in 2 years now since people over use them charging accessories.

Thxs for the info! Yeah, 13.7 seems common now. I replaced the battery this morning and looked at the numbers while I drove. And its almost similar to the old battery. 13.7v after its warmed up but higher when its vold at first crank in the morning. But the new battery did the fix, it has crank fast all day with no signs of drain. I guess using a inverter charging my laptop for these 2 years really killed it. I would go sometimes over 1 hour charhing without the car running. Always started fine and fast. It was until last month I noticed after doing some laptop work while plugged in witjout the engine running that it cranked slower than usual. After that, i got into the habit of starting the car adter 30 to 45 minutes to re charge just in case. But as the days went on, i notice the cranking would get slower and slower until last week it killed the battery in under 25 minutes. Jumped it, and it was fine. Then again after 20 minutes of no engine running and laptop plugged in, it drained again. Jumped it again. Ever since, it cranked slow even after running it for a while. So its not healthy to drain these batteries too much. Lesson learned.

Ohh no. I meant the car battery. I have absolutely no MYKEY options anywhere in the menu. The word "mykey" does not exist no more. On both keys. Ill try the battery disconnect for 30 minutes thos afternoon.

Hey kirby, yeah I am aware from your post on my newly created thread about this issue. Im curious to know how much the OP was charged. I feel as 300$ for a new key is crazy since i bought the car from them and given the keys i have that dont have mykey options no more.

I think having the car jumped 2 times due to a weak battery might have done something. Never noticed it until the 2nd jump. I drove it fast to get the battery charged and noticed the limit in which i figured the admin key would get rid of it. But when i tried using the admin key, there was no more MYKEY options lile my second key. Did a quick google search amd it let me to others with the same issue after swapping batteries.

Lol! I know... 80mph is not ideal. :p I did a test just now, turned out the admin Key has no restrictions actually. Its my 2nd key that i use and have set it to be a max of 80mph. That has the restriction. But still, the admin key doesnt give me the mykeu options no more. And you are correct, theu can reprogram them according to others that have had this issue and had them reprogrammed easily. So you think the dealer is being a bit of a cheat? The service guy said resolutely the only way to fix this is to cut another key and no way around it. Ive had this issue in the past with this dealer, they wanted 150$ to do the brake booster recall. They told me its a 150$ charge no matter what. Called corporate and they called them and only then they didnt charge me for the brake booster in which i had the recall letter in hand. What should be my next step? Ask corporate again? This my first time buying a ford and have had just negative experiences with them. Amd I am not cheap btw, if its a legitimate chargen i have them do it and pay. But the mix answers i get with them makes me not want to buy ford again. :/ I love my edge btw, great car and has not left me on the road. No TB problems too! Lucky i guess. I had the ajar door issue but fixed it with a whole can of electrical cleaner. Hasnt come back for over 10 months. Knock on wood!

Im having the same issue. Bought it pre certified used at Ford. Given 2 keys. 1 key was always the master. Battery died amd replaced it. Now the master key wont control MYKEY. So the car is limited to 80mph on both keys. Dealer just told me they would have to cut a 3rd key to fix it. Are they B.S me? What did they do you your key amd how much did they charge?

2011 ford edge. Changed my battery and now my master key doesnt control the Mykey function. Its gone from the menu. Dis some research and its happened to other people. Solutiom was to have the key reprogrammed and some are saying that the key was never a master key. I bought the car pre certified used. I was given 2 keys. 1 of the keys acted as a admin key but now that one is lile my second key in which does not control any Mykey function. Issue is, the car womt get passed 80mph on neither key. Called the dealer and they said yney would have to make a 3rd key for 300$. Asked is they can do it as a courtesy service since we bought it there and were given these keys, they said "no" and would have to cut another key. I found other threads were people had ford just clear out the keys in the computer and added the current key inside amd it worked. What have you guys done yourself? If my local Ford not being honest about the reprogramming?

Still love this car. Hasnt failed me yet mechanically. Been very reliable. No tb issue. But did get the door ajar problem. Fot lucky with that too since a few cans of electrical cleaner fixed it. I have a new issue, maybe you guys know. I noticed i lost the MY KEY options. My other key was the Admin key and even that lost it. I bought the car used from the dealer so I suppose they didnt give me the real master key according to google amd other people having the same exact issue after changing the battery or jumping it. Does the dealer charhe to reprogram the key? Will they waive it seens i was never given the master key? Just wondering.

Yep.... im leaning towards the battery. I drove it this morning for 1 hour, saw it at steady 14.4 14.28 volt charge. The 14.5v was at a cold crank first thing in the morning. Fyi, dor the last year, been doing a lot of field work with my laptop and its been powered by a inverter plugged in the cig lighter with the car off for the most part.. I think that deminished the life.

Yep... aware of it. Googling , foundout 13.7 is average noelw but varies on the pcm seeing fit. I have a meter om it as i drive and aeeind a healthy sweep from 14.5v in the morning to 13.7v later while driving. I'm leaning towards an actual bad battery after 2 years of using a lot of accessories on it while the car was off but never gave me an issue

Ahhh... interresting. Ill go have the cca checked at kragen. They do ot for free. I wonder if they are reliable with their tools

Also... car doesnt sit for long periods. Daily driver. I had this problem 2 years ago, it why I changed the battery. The battery got drained and had it jumped. After the jump... it gave me this exaxt same issue. Changed the battery and its been good until i accidentaly drained it with my laptop.

Good info but lost! Ive been out the auto field for a while. I AM USED to just putting a volt meter and making sure its within a certain voltage. Atm, max voltage I am reading is 13.7 to 13.8v with the car running or accelarated to 2500 to 3000 rpm. Kill the engine, drops to 12.7 to 12.5v. Turn the lights on while its not running and it drops to 12.4-12.3v. Once the light get turned off, creeps up to 12.6v. I have ran it to work and back, total 3 hours daily. Buy now? It just seems like its barely has juice but just enough to start the car good. If i plug in my laptop while the engine is off, in exaxtly 5 minutes.... it will NOT crank but " click click click" [dead battery]. So i am wondering is the pcm isnt making the alternator push out more voltage to charge it up to 14.7v or so. Any idea of 13.7v is normal? Old days, 14 7 was ideal but I am aware of the new systems being lower and more controlled by the pcm for optimal charging abilities. Battery is a Interstate Extreme 2 yrs old. Havent done a cca test? Dont have the tool.

Whats the chargng voltage on idle if you put a meter on the battery whrn running? And whats it at reving it up to 2500rpm? Im geting 12.7v with no engine runni g. And 13.8 when running. Is 13.8 low? Or is this one of those low volts charging systems? Im asking since i drained my 2 year battery and got a jump. Now it drains real fast if i sit in the car while charhing my phone and liatening to music while the engine is off. Wondering if i need a new battery or if the batter needs a 48hour trickle charge.

That was my initial guess. But im leaning on cv joint. Its gotten more obvious in the frequency of the clicking. Kinda rules out the bearing i think. But ill give it a shot! Ill see when i very the wheel off

Yeah.... the price isnt bad online. Wondering if its easy to put it in myself.

Was it easy to do?

Qiestion now is.... can i judt replace the bad one or do they sell only the whole shaft eith both cv joints attached?

Found this video and it sounds mote like this but just a slight higher tone. But very close. And looks like its the cv joint for sure.

Definately a cv joint. Do you know if its sold in joints or in a full axle only? Im going tonorder it and replace it myself I think.

Lol. I doubt its the belt or tensioner