2011edgese

XD

that's interesting. I used to have a 08 vue, that charged at 3.7 average and fluctuated between 12.5 to 15.5. I thought it was a bad xharging system. Dealer said its normal for this smart charging system. I guess every car manufacturer has its own thing.

i think the alternator is still old style. Always spins. What regulates the voltage is the pcm with the bcm.

i don't think the battery being regulated gives you better mpg. Butb then again. . Regulating it to create a sufficient spark on a old plugs can give u good mpg. But on a healthy engine, i don't see it doing much. I could be wrong.

agreed.

Btw.. i think the old system was better. On older cars with straight 14.5 constant charging , the batteries used to last a minimum of 6 years and sometimes 8years. These new systems suck in my opinion . But technology must progress.

Anyone think this is normal charging? I think it is on new charging system. Now that it has settled from programing this is what i got this morning after driving for 1 hour. Averages 13.9v. Yesterday it went asfar as 14.7v amd never dipped past 14v. This morning is a different story. But i recall this voltage being normal on these systems.

if you sprayed it well and in the right spots , you should see a difference.

Ahh ok. I went ahead and did the procedure that i posted. It did something though. The voltage is higher now. Before it would get charged between 12.7 and 13.8. Now its charging between 13.9 and 14.6. So i think it did something. I ended up going to the car wash. Unplugged the battery and detailed the car for like a hour. Then pluggedcthe battery and did the steps.

Ahh i see. Too bad. :[

I think you don't need the ford tool. Found this in the manual. Anyone comfirm this resets the bcm?

Anyone know anything about this? I replaced my battery last week and just came across how you have to reset the bcm to get the system to charge it properly . I just threw it in and its working fine. I did plug in my actron scan tool. The voltage ranges between 14.3 and 13.0 volts. I read how you have to throw the batter in and not touch it for 8hours to have the bcm learn the charge state so it can work properly. If not done, it will never charge it like a new battery. And read on other sites that driving the car normal with time the bcm will reset itself if there is no problems. Who is correct? Apparently you have to use a ford scan tool to reset it. Now im worried. Lol

Hehe! Perv!

So what happened with this project? Did you actually get it to work?

Just replaced mines with a 850 cca battery from O'Reilly . Turns faster at start up. My old batt was getting weak. Prevention maintaining work really. I'm sure the stock could have gone another 6 months easily. But don't want to risk it and be stranded.

I got good mileage on my edge. Going on a long trip, i managed to get 29 mpg hw. But hilly traffic congested city driving is horrendous ! I was getting 12mpg. now. . I may got a knN filter. Absolutely feel no powergain or even a different sound. Feel and sounds the same to me. But ill take any placebo if i can get any to get more hp on this car. Love this car.

Im lazy to look for it, anyone know if there's a link to a site that tells you if you are still under warranty? 2011 with 91k miles on it. I'm tempted to go to a dealer and have them do the tsb on mines. I can make the tranny shirt rather hard to 2nd hear all the time. All i need is a down hill and from total stop let it drift down without giving it any gas. When it switches to 2nd gear, it hits it hard. And also having the coming to a rolling stop and give it gas and it bumps the tranny hard. Don't do it all the time bit once in a while. Seems like I'm having the tsb issue. Usually the warranty is based on what month the car was sold, then it begins to count down. I bought mines as a pre certified with 20k miles. Also. . NEVER trust the pre certifies claim. I had a brake pad on the driver inner side that was at almost 10% while the test were at 80%.. I think of it was given a 100 pooint inspection , they would have seen it and fixed it before selling it. When i did the brake pad replacement, i noticed that caliper was harder to twist push it inside. A little frozen i guess. The problem is still there even after new pads and lubing everything with good clips bent to a good new state. So its a caliper issue . But there's no brake pad drag at all. So im guessing it stays on the disk rotor a little longer leading to premature wear.

Or the psu on the 4 wheel drive. Seems like everyone's is leaking.

Double post

Ok... this is how i exactly spray the latch. Get the straw to bend upwards so the can is somewhat straight so it pushes the liquid and not air. This has worked great for me. But now that i know the bolt trick, ill attempt it next time the sensor sticks again. and get the tip all the way inside. Wiggle it so it sprays everywhere .

yup... you have the worst of everyone i come across worth this issue. Alarm going off and doors unlocking. Im sure you are also experiencing the dome light turning on and off randomly during thenight as well. Thats what mines does. All through the night it cones on and off. Draining the battery. Luckily it had never drained it ccompletely. Looks like you are being forced to fix it asap. And yes, you have to spray the whole can. Don't go cheap with it, just spray the death out of it.

Makes sense why my angle of sprayl works! I'll post a diagram . .. hand drawn.

awesome!

which screw? Thxs for figuring out using electrical cleaner btw! Also. .. maybe do a tutorialbin removing the latch? Some of us woyld be so happy to save 400$!

Red.... you might be unlucky. There's been a few who have had the ahem go off due to this latch issue . It is related. It happened to me once. But once only . Once it gets to that stage, no choice but to have it replaced. Have you tried spraying a WHOLE can of electrical cleaner? Try that. That's what works for me. If i just squirt ut a few times, it don't help. But if i spray it threw all angles, it fixes mibes for a few weeks.