edgesportguy

I just replaced my 22"s with some aftermarket wheels. Sellng as a set or will separate Wheels were a warranty replacement with about 2k on them, but thanks to another knucklehead driver one side got curbed pretty bad. 1 wheel - perfect $650 1 wheel - small scratch $550 2 wheels - No cracks or bends, repairable curb rash about 2/3 around the wheels. $350 each $1,600 full set Tires have about 30% tread left and all TPMS sensors are good. Will charge actual shipping. Prefer local pick up. Will post picks later today

Coming out of a G37s I was dreading getting an SUV until I found the Edge Sport. Personally just tge right size, 307hp, a responsive paddle shist trans, and the mean looking black grill with the 22's, by far the best handling SUV had me sold the first time I drove it. Love the huge panoramic sunroof, the MFT, and having both rear seats along with front passenger all fold completely flat were big perks

I've a 2010 Corvette Grand Sport convertible - beautiful car, but have had quite a few problems with it too. Getting a new transmission under GMPP and going up for sale I totally agree about just getting a bad Sport. I leased my first 2013 Sport and it was trouble free and liked it so much that I found and bought a used one just like it when I turned it in. 36k on first one, 32k on this one. Only problem ever had on both is clear coat on wheels was getting was getting some crazing underneath it. Ford replaced all 4 wheels on both - no questions asked

Nice!

Just curious, but why do you need to inflate your tires so often running at 35psi? I'm on my 2nd '13 Sport and live in New England so have a wide range of road temps and run mine at 34lbs and have rarely ever had to add air. I check regularly and they run a couple of lbs lower on cold roads, and a couple of lbs higher in the summer even on the highway. Both favorable conditions and have gotten even treadware on both

Mentioned the wheels when I took the car in for regular service last week. I was very happily surprised when I went to go pick it up and the Service Advisor told me that they were going to replace all 4 wheels. I'd agree that it most be a common known problem since there was none of the typical hassle of getting fixed factory cosmetic problems that develop over time. No "we'll have to have the Regional Rep come out and look at them"; no BS about there being curb rash on all 4 wheels (ex-wife is now barred from driving it), etc

I went to do a thorough clean & polish up a little curb rash before winter comes on the 22's on my '13 Sport and realized that what I thought was just some type of whitish stuff slung on the wheels is actually the clear coat starting to "craze" from the inside edge of the wheel surfaces. It's definitely under the clear coat and not something that can polished off. I've only got 22k miles on it and have always used Eagle One All Wheel Cleaner only on cold wheels since it was brand new. I'll post a some pic's as soon as I get a chance. Anyone else having this problems with their 22's

All emails / messages replied to Alpine Amp is SOLD

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Would've replied sooner - but up in ME snowmobiling for the past week. I'll do $75 on the sub PM me for my paypal address. I'll be home in a couple of days

I'm getting ready to install a JBL GTO 804EZ 4 channel amp to power the Infinity Kappas 682.11cf 5x7's I put in the doors as they are being way underpowered with the factory Sony amp. I'm also putting in AudioControl Lc7i LOC to connect the two amps (already have another JBL to run my sub) to the factory harness What is the reason for "not getting rid of the Sony amp"? And why "tap into the speaker harness after the amp"? At this point the signals have already been split and crossed over for all the different speakers. Both a reputable higher end local shop and a Crutchfield rep advised me to not even bother running the factory pillar tweeters since the Infinty's already have great adjustable tweeters. They both felt that upgrading the tweets is a waste of time and money and that the Inifinity's will sound superior.

I'm selling a great sub woofer/amp upgrade set up that's a really simple install. I ended up doing what I usually do... going big; so trying to re-coup some $$$. I like a LOT of sound with full tight bass and upgraded my entire system with 2 JBL amps, Infiniti Kappa door speakers, and a 12" JL Audio sub & box The sub speaker is basically a brand new JL Audio 8' 8W1v2-4 Sub woofer and is a direct fit into factory enclosure behind the rear passenger fender panel. It's got awesome reviews and was a definite improvement over the factory sub just running off the stock amp - and it will make a huge difference with the aftermarket amp. I used it for less than 2 days before I decided to do the entire system. Thanks to the holidays and a lot of work travel, I didn't get around to returning it in the 60 day time period JL Audio 8" 8W1v2-4 Specs: - 4-ohm subwoofer with polypropylene cone and nitrile-butylene rubber surround - 35 to 50 watts RMS, 300 watts peak - frequency response: 28-250 Hz, sensitivity: 83.86 dB Alpine MRP-M500 Class D mono amp - - - - - SOLD $75 for the JL Audio subwoofer and will work with you on shipping Rik

So does anyone know where I can tap into get that full range signal? Or do I need to tap into both harnesses going to the two amps (one side of the the JBL sub channels into the harness of the main amp, and the other side into the harness of the sub amp as described in my previous post)?

I already had both the Alpine & JBL amps and went with the Alpine at first since it was quick and easy install just tapping into the speaker wires right at the sub. From what I recall, there is an individual harness going to each of the factory amps so the signal may be crossed over before the amps, or within each amp itself. I've used the Lc8i and it's a great unit if you're going with multiple amps and a guaranteed solution to capture a full range signal that can be crossed over to any taste. Since I'm only adding one single channel amp - I think I have two simpler, cheaper options that will work. Option 1: Lc2i tapping into speaker level inputs: L Channel: speaker wires going to the sub R Channel: speaker wires going to one of the rear doors Should be really simple and will avoid having to dig around through the main wiring harness before the amps. Option 2: No LOC - tap into the harness going to the amps I can avoid using a LOC altogether by tapping into the pre-amp wires of the factory harness directly using a set of RCA's I have with individual + and - leads at one end. Doesn't matter what the voltage is as the Crown can be adjusted to the line input voltage. With option 2 I'm still faced with the same uncertainty of knowing whether I'm capturing a full range signal tapping into the harness going to the sub amp until I do it. I guess it's not really a big deal though as all I'd have to do is change one side to one of the rear speaker signals going to the other amp. Thoughts???

Tried searching but didn't find an answer for this. I have a 2013 Sport Edge with the Sony system. I upgraded my sub to an Alpine Type R with a mono Alpine amp I had when I first got it. The amp has speaker level inputs so I just tapped into the speaker wires going to the stock sub. I want to replace the Alpine amp with my JBL Crown which is by far superior - a lot more power, a lot more crossover and level adjustment options, and has a remote level control so I can easily adjust the base level with the turn of a knob right at the dash. The Crown only has RCA inputs though, so I need to install a LOC (AudioControl LC2i). I like a lot of tight mid-bass and one of the advantages of this set up is that I can tap into a wider frequency range than what's going to the factory sub since the signal to it is crossed over at a pretty low. My question is - where can I tap into a full range signal? I believe the factory system is crossed over before going to the amps?

I too was able to get the subscription down to $89 after it expired in my last car. I don't think I'm going to renew though - I'm pretty disappointed in the sound quality compared to FM or true digital

I got the Infinity Kappa's in - they do sound better than the stock Sony speakers, but personally I wouldn't spend the money to do it again. Modifying the stock box and putting in a JL Audio 8" sub powered by a MRP-M500 Alpine amp ended up pretty much being a flop. I bonded 1/2" MDF to every flat surface of the stock box, fiberglassed the entire thing with two layers of matt, and Dynamatted the whole inside. I think part of it is that it's still just an 8" sub. I also think the stock box has too much volume for the size of the speaker. Heck - the box for my 10" Type R has less internal volume than the stock box. Next I time I have some extra time to kill I'll pull it back out and fill some of the space in. Replacing it with a 10" Alpine Type R in it's own box with same amp was worth every penny!!! (especially considering it cost me nothing, as I already had it from my last car) The new sub sounds awesome, and adds just the right amount of bass.

My Kappas should be here any day now and am looking forward to dropping 'em in as everyone seems to love them. As far as the 2 ohm, these should be fine according to other threads that specifically addressing this I am definitely disappointed in the factory system - the highs were pretty good, but I thought mids were muddy, and the factory sub absolutely horrible with it breaking up at just half volume. Not looking for big boom - just some nice tight full bass, with crisp, clearly defined mids and highs. I've personally had great experience with Polks, though I did go higher end with true components, driven by plenty, of power in my truck

Tried searching, but didn't really find anything about upgrading the front center and d-pillar 3 1/2" speakers for the stock Sony system in a Ltd or Sport. I've a 2013 Sport and upgrading to Infinity Kappa 5x7's in the front and rear doors, modifying the sub box to stiffen it up, and putting in a JL Audio 8" sub powered by an Infinity 300 watt mono amp. Question I have - has anyone upgraded their 3 1/2" center and d-pillar speakers running off the factory head unit? Is it even worth spending the $200 to upgrade them? My guess is no, but would like some advice.

Returning the Polks and just ordered 2 pairs of INFINITY KAPPA 682.11CF http://www.crutchfield.com/p_10868211CF/Infinity-Kappa-682-11cf.html?tp=93&awkw=44731452865&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=16259734945&awdv=c

Looks like the SL80's are no longer available

I've been really happy with the Synch system in my 2013 Sport. Good voice recognition for commands, and people I call say the call quality is good

New to the forum and new to the Ford Edge. Leased a new 2013 Sport Edge and I gotta say - I love it. Likes: The 3.7 moves it right along. Great styling - the blacked out grille and 22"s really make the truck. Great handling for an SUV. Comfortable seating. Just the right amount of cargo space for me. Absolutely love the huge moon roof! Dislikes: The Sony stereo system is mediocre at best - I will be modifying the sub box with MDF to stiffen it up and installing an Alpine MRP-M500 mono amp to drive a JL Audio 8W1v2-4 8" sub. Swapped all 4 door speakers to Polks and saw very little improvement, so I may swap those out with some Alpines or Boston Acoustics Seat heater controls on the touch screen are annoying, Ford should've used regular switches as I need to take my eyes off the road to turn them on & off using the touch screen. Gas mileage - 17 mpg on average; though I new this going into it as I have a pretty heavy foot HID's not available as a factory option for the Sport

Which model of the Infinities or Boston Acoustics am I looking for?

Hmm - I've always liked Polk's. I did not upgrade the tweeters and center and d-pillars. What size is the center speaker? Maybe I'll try swapping out to the infinity kappas or Boston Acoustics if I can return the Polk's. I'm looking forward to getting the sub in as I think it's going to make a huge difference Thanks for the feedback