Hollywood1

I was thinking the same thing, pop it off and hit the sharp edge with a file.

Ok. Thanks

There are three fuses on the top of the battery terminal. Did you check those?

Go to www.fordparts.com Body-interior-door

I PMed you about this, check it please and get back to me.

Mine is a 2014 Sport and it works fine. I just step on the brake and push start. Looks like a dealer visit for you buddy.

Do you have the part number handy? I want to see if these will fit my 2014 Sport

It sounds like you may have a bad CV joint. When the bearings go bad you develop play in the joint. Jack your car up (ramps are better) and grab your half shaft(s) and wiggle them. There should be no play. Good luck Nate

So I just received my Kensun HIDs that I ordered from Amazon this week. I also ordered the relay and will be posting the install in pictures. I ordered with the assurance that there is a 2 year warranty on the kit and lifetime on the ballasts. It is a 55w/5000K kit and I paid $70 shipped. The ballasts are the digital slims, and they are fairly weighty. The wiring is of a pretty thick gauge and the kit seems generally well put together. I'll let you know as I go. Nate

Sorry bro, that's $200 over the new price on EBay. You might want to drop that price and you'll get some takers.

So this is a one week impression of the AWD sport. First off, mileage, I started out at about 14mpg, added a K&N panel filter and now I'm sitting at about 18.5 after 500 miles of break-in. I had a 2011 Sport FWD base model for a year and I must say that the features on my new one (which is completely loaded) are awesome! BLIS, driver convenience key, powered tailgate and the Vista Roof are all great. The AWD is also really nice to have as I always thought that my previous Sport was having a really hard time putting power down, now I just punch it and it goes! I've got quite a bit of boxes coming, DriveBright tails-DRLS-HIDs, magnaflow exhaust, ADDCO sway bar and H&R springs. There is a local tuner here in Phoenix that wants to try to adapt the Mustang supercharger, but I'm worried the PTU won't take the power. We'll see. Cheers Nate

Thanks, just little tricks learned from years of mistakes.

Try this. Buy a can of waterproof silicone lubricant, take off your front wheels and spray the area where the spring meets the top strut hat where the rubber bushing is (no WD-40 or oil based lube!). Also spray at the bottom where the spring meets the lower strut collar and see if the noise goes away. A little trick you can do is to buy some spiral cable loom, jack up the front to uncompressed the spring, and thread the spiral loom onto the bottom where it meets the lower strut collar.

Sent you PM

Wow, that's a lot of issues. Conversely, I have a 2011 Sport with 60,000 miles that has never has 1 issue. No PTU seals, no audio or Sync issues, nada. As for performance, I put an AFE dry filter in it, and my GTech pro says 6.5-6.7 to 60 consistently. With a Tribeca running about 7.8 to 60 under perfect conditions, I doubt you get "smoked". But hey, good luck with the repairs and remember that you would spend $10-20 thousand more for a comparable import such as an X3 Sport, X5 sport 3.0, Audi Q5 3.2, ML350 or the like and have just as many or more issues. My "other" car is a 2012 Grand Cherokee SRT8, maybe you should take a look at that, I smoke everything under an $80 grand window sticker (except those pesky Corvettes). I get 12 MPG doing it, but its fun! Good luck

No leaks at all. Check to make sure that your o-rings in the tire pressure sensors are not over tightened. When wheels are swapped the "tire pros" tend to over tighten them and they leak. One quarter turn past finger tight, with a dab of red loc-tite. If you have band sensors, have the tires removed and re-seated, ask them to use a little extra tire bead wax (the stuff they smear to help the machine).

I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned this, but aside from getting a different sound from the air box, this is not much of a performance mod. With the snorkel removed you are sucking in hot air from directly behind the radiator. If the sound is what you are after, use the airbox silencer delete plug from Steeda made for the 3.5 Fusion.

Don't I know it! My first priority this morning was to have it fixed. I was in a hurry to leave Friday and didn't look at the printout. Here is the new one.

I did about 250 miles of driving including about half highway and half very curvy roads on a short day trip up to Sedona and a little beyond. I got the alignment the next day. Im sure there are a lot opinions on this, but i have modified the suspension of almost every vehicle i have owned and springs don't take much time to settle. I put Eibach camber bolts on both sides during the spring install. It looks like I am headed back one more time though, as it is still pulling to the left a little.

I'll let the photo speak for itself. This is for all those that ask if an alignment is needed after installing lowering springs. I had my Edge Sport aligned less than 2 months ago, and here is the sheet after installing H&R springs.

It sounds like the setup you have is working for you, the LC2 seems like the perfect option at this point. If you can get a full range signal, it will give you up to 8volts on the preout, so you get MUCH more signal and you'll get bass frequencies from 20hz to whatever you like. The factory Sony sub is 60-90hz range according to an installer I talked to with an analyzer, so getting a full signal and crossing your sub over around 120-150hz is going to give you that midrange punch you are after.

Without all of the other trim painted black like the Sport, a black grill may look weird. Matching it to your body color would look nice, but (and since the bumper is easy to remove) I wouldn't do it unless you can afford to take it and have it sprayed at a paint shop. It shouldn't cost more than $200 and you could have them add extra coats of clear to entire bumper to protect from chips. If you just rattle can spray over the chrome grill, you will be seeing (and respraying) chips in your grill constantly. Here is all black With some LED running lights and some factory 20s from the classifieds it will look very nice.

I would guess that the signal from the head unit itself doesn't have any processing, usually that is done at the amplifier. If you use an AudioControl LC8i, even if the head unit does the processing, it will sum all the frequencies into 6 or 8 full range RCA outputs. I have used this piece many times over the years, most recently on a VW with the Fender system, and it works great! Good luck PS- due to the very complex electronics in our vehicles, I would recommend you take the time to solder and shrink tube the connections, cleaner signal and safer.

I love you man! A wrenching I will go.....a wrenching I will go.....

That is awesome!! Anyone know where I can get that for the fronts?