Hollywood1

I am doing a spring install tomorrow and need someone with access to a shop manual for some torque specs. I need the rear lower control arm torque, the lower strut bolts torque and the front strut tower bolts torque. In the past I have used the RFT (really frickin tight) method, but I'd rather have the correct numbers this time. Thanks in advance.

I second the motion for Hawk HPS pads. The difference in braking is very noticeable on my '11 Sport. Less dust, stronger stopping and great initial bite. You get what you pay for with pads.

Just use some double ought "00" steel wool.

I adjusted mine 1/4 turn up and put Sylvania Silverstars in them. They are amazing now. First just try a quarter turn up and see what you think.

PM me a price please. I also need width, offset and updated pics if you have them.

Like many of you I have painted my chrome trim on the front of my Edge. After going through 5 different black metallics I have found a perfect match. It is the Honda black sand pearl by duplicate-color, I covered it with VHT clear wheel paint since it has better gloss than duplicate-color and is MUCH more chip resistant. I'm not sure if these photos will show it well enough, but it is almost perfect.

It does strike me as weird that (and I'm not trying to bash Steeda) but look at their page for Fusion parts and it is packed! I have never even SEEN a modified Fusion. Since the Edge is based on the fusion, I wonder if any of those parts, like the shocks or adjustable camber ball joints would transfer over?

I fully understand your point on business models and demand, but the research has already been done. The products were previously readied for market (intake, springs, sway bar). Why discontuinue? Why not just stock less product? for Steeda in particular, you cant tell me that Mustang part sales do not offset the low volume that Edge parts move. Yes, the Edge is heavy and will never be FAST, but everyone likes to modify, look how many modified 107HP Civics are running around. Ford has consistently sold over 100,000 Edge per year since 2010. I just can't believe that Ford-centric companies such as Steeda and Roush can't justify intake/exhaust/suspension sales.

I'm sure that a lot of you know this as the Steeda website has not been updated for the Edge for many months, but I contacted them today to order their sway bar and see if there were any more intakes available. Not only was the answer a rude "no, we're done with the Edge", but I was told there would be no more support, research or new products. SAD

Your Edge should be filled with 50/50 from the factory, so you would just add 50/50 to top it off. An antifreeze tester (refractomoter) is a $5 piece at Autozone if you want to test it. You could do 3-4 fill and drains with distiller water, or drain and fill with mixed coolant and do another in a couple weeks. I just did mine on my 2011 Sport and it was the same, only about 5 quarts came out. I filled it with mixed coolant and tested it with the tester and antifreeze strips which show contaminants and it was fine. Unless you are always towing, drag racing or operating in extreme temperatures I wouldn't try to get TOO technical with it, you are liable to break more than you fix.

Pics...or it didn't happen

I second that on OEM size. I have found that the Pirelli Scorpion ATR is a good tire for occasional off road. Go to Tirerack.com and search under the categories and read the reviews.

Search is your friend. Look through the photos and read the captions. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/gallery/image/2525-img-0079/

I was actually thinking of talking to the people at Procharger to see if their supercharger kit could be modified to fit a transverse application.

I received my AFE Pro Dry filter today and popped it in. I also removed the intake silencer and plugged it with a plastic 3.5 inch plug (go Home Depot). I immediately noticed better throttle response, but what I couldn't believe is what my G-Tech pro tells me. At 109 degrees outside, I made 259 HP wheel measurement with a 6.8 second 0-60. After the filter it reads 267 HP and the 0-60 dropped to 6.65. These runs were within a half hour of each other, and my OEM filter is almost new so no clogging issues. I don't know, maybe this motor just wants more air. I also installed my remote start, coded my new keys and stared at my Eibach springs and Steeda sway bar sitting on my bench, it's just too frickin hot here in Phoenix for wrenching at this level right now. I'm taking my parts to the Luke Air Force Base auto shop next weekend, it's air conditioned!!

I just wanted to post a quick review of these two products for anyone that may be on the fence about using them. The color chip system is simply amazing. After years if being stuck with blobby touch up paint pens this product is the real deal. I ordered the small squeegee with my kit also. My Sport is platinum white which is a three coat system, but the color match is dead on. I used the product exactly as the directions say and it was a breeze. Paint chips on the front of my truck are no longer visible from more than 3 feet away. A couple tips though. I had a few deeper/larger chips, and while this paint fills in the chip to protect from rust, it doesn't "fill" the chip. What I did was to glob a little extra paint in the chip and let it dry for a couple hours, then I wrapped the included cloth on a small sanding block and lightly rubbed the remover over the area. This left the paint in the chip, but took away the excess and made the glob virtually flush with the surface. I used the same method on a couple larger scratches in the rear bumper and they are now nearly invisible. The 3M paint defender also works pretty much as advertised. I took my time to mask off the front as I didn't apply it to the black grill portion. I also used their prep package with the plastic sheet and covered my wheels. During my first attempt I sprayed it a little too thick in the front and got a couple runs, so after waiting an hour I removed it and tried again. 3M recommends 3 passes and I would say that 2 are sufficient if you pay close attention to your speed and the distance from your car. The stuff looks milky until it dries, but it is so clear that I couldn't get it to show up for pictures. After it dries it has a slightly rubbery feeling, but after a coat of wax it is very smooth. Keep a rag handy when you spray and hold it just under the spray nozzle and it will catch any drips from the can. (a common complaint) BTW, I took a close look at the portion I removed and I would say from past experience with clear bras on my other cars, this is about 3-4 mils thick. The commercially available 3M clear bra comes in 5 mil and 7 mil, but when it is applied there is a clear hood line, and it is thick enough that dust accumulates along the edge and makes it very visible. I have gone over this product with my duster, and it is thin enough that dust doesn't build up along the edge. I have no affiliation with either company.

Well...to each his own. I installed car audio professionally for 6 years. As far as mass-produced, I definitely have my preferences, Morel components for midbass drivers, JL Audio for subs, AudioControl for factory integration. The HD series amps from JL are simply amazing. They consistently make more power than advertised and the crossovers are super accurate (in the HDs). In my previous 2008 MKX I removed the factory sub and put in a custom fiberglass box with a JL 8W3V3 (box was .85 cu ft), Morel Elate 6.5 components front and 5.25 rear and integrated with an AudioControl LC7i. That system was amazing, crystal clear, tight mid bass and thunderous sub bass, I miss it. Do you have any experience with fiberglass? You could really open up your custom solutions with some glass work. As far as running a midbass driver in the rear, I don't think those frequencies would travel far enough from the rear without getting sucked up by seats, carpet and reflections to be very audible. Good luck on whichever route you decide to take, let me know if I can help with anything.

I think your design looks nice. You should be able to sand/shape the corners for a smooth look. If you remove the stock sub, but leave the grill in place (using black cloth to block the view into the space) you could mount your amp in that space and maintain ventilation. I haven't used those subs before, but I can recommend the JL Audio HD series amps, they run very cool and are extremely compact. I'm not sure if you can make space for a 1 cu ft enclosure, but with the JL Audio 8W7, you would only need one. This sub absolutely pounds!! I have personally replaced a pair of 10W0 subs each getting 200 watts with the 8W7, and using the same amp the 8 inch was producing noticeably more SPL and bass.

That's weird that their application for the Edge is so loud. That makes me feel better about ordering it through Amazon so that I can return it easily if I have the same opinion. Maybe it's because if the removal of the Ford intake resonance silencer. I personally dont believe in an intake for looks, so if its too loud or doesn't give a perceivable gain in power it will be going back. I happen to live in a dusty area which is the reason I always go with a reuse able air filter. I am actually more excited for the exhaust, as I love the sound of this motor in the Mustang. The DRLs will also be pretty cool. So..... nobody has or knows anyone that funds the Steeda sway bar huh?

Do you have personal experience with this intake? I also have an AFE dry-s drop in filter that I can use. As for ceramic pads, I have had experience with the Centric ceramic pads and I have run Hawk pads on my S4. I agree that ceramics can eat rotors, but only with track-level use, which the Edge will never see. I like the low dust of ceramics, and they were included in the kit I bought from Amazon, so I'll stick with them. Back on point, does anyone run the Steeda rear bar?

So I just took delivery of my 2011 Edge Sport and I want to change a few things and mod a little. I have ordered the Magnaflow exhaust, K&N intake, H&R springs, bright lights LED DRLs, and a full PowerStop slotted/drilled rotor and pad upgrade. I want to try out out the Steeda sway bar, but it is only .1inch (3mm) larger than stock. Is anyone here running one that can offer an opinion on the change in handling? Thanks in advance.

Due to where you live I would say that the rust issues are normal, and a brake pad separating from the backing is not normal, but not exactly rare either. Brakes are one place where you should not go cheap. As for the dealers response, I would unfortunately say they are right. Brake pads and rotors are a wearable item, and if the caliper has not malfunctioned, it is hard to hold Ford responsible for a defective brake pad. They are advising you to replace both rear rotors because they are sold in pairs, as are brake pads. As for replacing the fronts also, they may be trying to make some money off you, but without you taking the car to another dealer or an independent, it is hard to tel. I would doubt that the dealer would even let you take the car back without the repair due to liability. I hate to say it, but I would either pony up and pay for a full brake service or have them tow the car to your house. You can get a full PowerStop brake kit including slotted rotors and ceramic pads for the front and rear from Amazon for $400 with free shipping and the job can be completed in your garage with simple hand tools. Good luck