12Edge

Mine wired in directly to the fuse box, no battery connection and I put most of the harness inside the lamp housing itself. I also removed both headlights to do it. It was pretty intricate. You can just attach the relay and ballast to the inside body panel or side of the lamp housing. I noted in my install that I could have probably easily just poked a hole in the side of the lamp housing where the ballast is mounted and used a plastic push pin from an auto parts store. It really is a GREAT upgrade to the vehicle and seriously improves ability to see at night. I know Dan with http://www.daytimebrightlites.com/ posted a youtube video on his plug & play 35W kit install with no harness but I don't know where I saw that link now. Here is the link to my install: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13572-my-hid-upgrade-with-close-to-factory-lookoperation-for-80/ As Droth said, if you have any questions or concerns post them here and we will do our best to offer help, tips and suggestions.

The icon is for traction control. If its staying on there is probably an issue with the traction control modules/system.

If you don't want to do any work then a HID upgrade is probably not for you. No matter what you have to mount a ballast and route the wires to and from it for the bulb/power. I think most of the direct plug in systems are having difficulty igniting so the only choice is to run a direct to battery wire and use a relay which means you have to route those wires from the battery/fuse box to each side which means a long wire across the front. Basically, if you want an effortless upgrade.... forget it. I did a full write-up on my upgrade on this board and you will see to do it VERY well takes time. If I just half assed it then it would still have taken a couple of hours.

The HID kti I bought from their eBay store have yet to fail to ignite. I bought their 35w kit because I read folks suggesting I would get flashed by oncoming cars if I put in a 35w kit as it would be too bright. I didn't even realize there was so much difficulty with HID ignition until reading on here. From most accounts though, morrimoto gets the most positive feedback from members here. From what I saw they come with a double relay harness for redundancy. As stupid as this sounds I watched a lot of info before buying and a few commented that the weight of the ballast played in to its durability and overall capability. Cheap ones were light and the better ones were heavy which simply meant the heavier ones didn't use light duty components.. It was suggested that 13-16 oz was normal for a good ballast. The OPT7 / HID extra ones I bought are 15.6 oz. I have never run my lights without the capacitors since I soldered them in line to remove the coupling connector and can't easily remove them now to see if an igniting problem would occur. You asked for people with electronics background and while mine is meager I do know that capacitors are used to "filter" power to smooth out AC to DC converted wave-forms and as a "battery" of sorts so that when high demand is placed they can offer up their supply. The thing that strikes me as curiously odd about suggesting a capacitor to supplement power in this case is that when you are connecting directly to the battery with the relay well.... isn't the car battery the ultimate capacitor in this case? I do think that these capacitors are installed in parallel rather than in series which implies waveform manipulation rather than supply. Again though, my knowledge is limited.

Zune was discontinued by its manufacturer (Microsoft) a couple of years ago and most certainly not because it was a HUGE success. You are expecting Ford to support something that too few of their customers use. Indeed too few people in the world use when comparing device market share. I don't think you are going to hear the support you want from this forum. You just have to realize you backed the wrong horse. I have been in the same situation a few times now and it sucks but you have to move on at some point. Personally I use an android device and was FURIOUS when they removed the ability to mount the thing as a USB drive in the JellyBean OS update. I went back then adapted and now just use bluetooth music streaming since the phone was already connected that way anyway. Good luck!

Mine is very easy to move. Simply squeeze between finger tips of left hand and move or with a single finger tip if I am pulling down no problems.

I'm puzzled as to what part the Auto lights plays in any problems? All it does is switch them on and trigger a relay in the HID kit. Why would it matter if it were manually powered VS Auto? Or are the folks having problems not getting harnesses with relays?

I second this. Get a bright light and look inside the mechanism. All it takes is a coin sliding in to the right place and it won't latch.

Good luck, I hope that takes care of it! I have owned 3 fords for 9+ years and just got a 4th and have never replaced a heater core. It sounds like you have isolated the problem to flow through the core but I am shocked that an 07 would need a new one already. Makes me worry about mine In Texas I only have to worry about overheating. I guess when it gets as cold as it does for you other problems can crop up. Never dealt with repeated freezing winters before.

I wish you luck. It seems like the you have dual zone (at least dual zone) climate control. If you get significantly different temp out of the left than the right it means you have independent blend doors for each side. I don't see them both failing at the same time which means a control system failure elsewhere.

With a With all the possible combinations of airflow... internal/external air, what duct the air exits out of there are multiple actuators. At least two to determine where the airflow enters/exits the system as my vehicle has. With the temperature control blend believe or not the air always flows over the A/C evaporator to dehumidify it and then through the heater core if you want heat. If you have dual zone then there are two blend doors, if one then you only have one blend door. My blend door has a linkage arm to manipulate it which leads me to believe you could disconnect it and fix it to whichever position produces heat. Again my details are for my 2012 but I would imagine yours are similar. The last time I looked at a heater system in a car the water flow was forced from outside and always flowed internally in summer or winter, it is the blend door that controls the temp. The water pump pressure forces water through it so I am not sure on the bubble theory? If there is any doubt a section of clear tubing inserted in to the line temporarily, or disconnecting the outlet side(MESSY) would let you know if you have water flow or not with the engine running.

Since you are desperate enough to double post about this I will offer a suggestion though probably not the answer you are looking for. The blend doors are all actuated either by vacuum or as in my case in a 2012 with an electric motor. Since you have already been in the dash and its freezing out and will be for months..... Disconnect whatever mechanism, be it vacuum actuated or electric motor from the door and fix with wire or tape to where it puts out heat until its not too cold to work on it? You could also, while its opened up try the controls from hot to cold and verify the motors are moving the door or not to narrow down the problem?! If I had a 2008 service manual I would give you their instructions to troubleshoot but I don't.

I came from a Sport Trac and for sure felt like i was in a hole for a while but I am used to it. With the Edge I cut my fuel bill nearly in half and it feels a bit more like the mustang I used to own just driving it.

The built in turn signals do not use relays. They are powered directly by the body control module.

Norm, that is interesting. The CD I referenced in the other post where you asked about the wiring guide has a whole section dedicated to reflashing the "as-built" firmware retrieved from the Ford OASIS website and flashed via the proper flashing tools hooked to the cars USB... I forget what the tool was called. It suggested you could download your specific control module firmwares with your VIN and flash them back to the car. Seems to me that would put it back to stock?!

Mine are completely wrapped in heat-shrink. They didn't have a sticker like the one they show in the photo. badgb21 may have better luck reading his. If you want a non-precise measurement..... it was about as big around as my....... thumb

You can get them chrome deposited too (chromed). Shouldn't be too awfully expensive since you can ship it anywhere to have it done.

$24 http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-SHOP-MANUALS-ON-DVD-2012-2013-Oct-2013-RELEASE-INCLUDES-MUSTANG-302-/221333665298?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item338883b612 he has a set of 3 in a different auction that covers more years. It is the shop manual and electronics diagram for ALL models (or so it says) I have only looked at the edge info. You also will have to dial back the date on your computer when it expires and you want to use it later on. A small price for to pay for $25. It also has more details than I included. I tried to make it as generic as possible but it has circuit names and what is really awesome is when you are tracing a circuit the next part of it is a hyperlink to click on and it jumps around instead of the paper book (that I also have) that you have to flip pages for when you trace it to a new page number.

Welcome from Texas as well!

I see. In case you don't have it I have added the wire diagram for the trailer lights from factory. If you don't have the factory relays in the fuse box for trailer wiring I wouldn't add them just for the front lights. I would just tie in to the turn signal wires directly for the rear by routing two wires through the firewall. The fact is the LED's are so low power they use less than the relay would. In the diagram where you see BCM it is behind the drivers side plastic panel under the dash. Its right there with the inside fusebox but you have to take the whole kickpanel out to get to it. The number for the wires, 12 and 15 are the wire number in the harness. Oh and one more thing... if its the BCM connector I am thinking of it has a latch at the top attached to a pivot point so the latch has to be swung out before the connector can actually be pulled, Good luck!

That is curious. The shop manual DVD I have says "ALL Models" for 2011-2013 but the wiring for the turn signals doesnt say anything special for Canada. I have 3 wires to the turn signal. Two hot wires, one for the parking light and one for the turn signal and a ground as shown below. There are 7 pages of diagrams for the turn signal and the only difference is if you have an edge or MKX?!

Oh. I just tied my set in directly to the turn signal wires for the front of the car. The draw was so low it didnt cause an issue and if I pull out the actual signal bulb I get rapid blink indication that I am supposed to get.

I just posted on their ford social site. I searched for bluetooth and it was top of the list.

There is a lot of room directly under the fuse box inside the housing the top half with all the fuses attaches to. (again see the pic where I am just lifting it up) Especially closer to the front of the box because the wire gangs go out at the rear. The top part of the fuse box just sits on the lower half, it doesn't really drop down in to the bottom more than an 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch or so. I have to ask, what is an Edge2 ? Google comes up with a dual monitor arm system and a motor cycle tail light!?

Thanks, The real key to keeping the bumper on was leaving one side attached at the wheel well. It prevented the top from sliding forward enough to drop off the frame. In hind site I should have probably put something under the bottom to support it and maybe use a couple of zip ties in a large loop at the top to prevent it from moving too far forward.