Mirage52

Here's a pic of dipstick. Can be hard to see oil level but it's just above second hole. Thoughts?

I did add a little oil to filter before installing it but it was very little. Just check again and took a pic I will try to post it. Looks like a 1/4 inch above fill mark.

No chance there was a quart left. Maybe a half...my driveway is slightly off level so the car leans forward just a tad which may trap some oil in the pan, but it couldn't be a full quart. I drained the oil until there was a very thin stream coming from the drain plug. Like I said, I've done this before and perhaps I didn't add the full 6 quarts, and just went off the dipstick. For whatever reason I decided to add all 6. Just re-checked the stick after car's been sitting for a few hours...it's not that far above second hole in dipstick. I am thinking it's OK.

Hello, I changed the oil on my 2013 SEL FWD yesterday -- done it before and never had an issue. Drained the oil as normal and added 6 qts of oil as recommended from the manufacturer and when I did a reading on the dipstick after 5 qts it was at the fill mark. Was thinking of not adding the extra quart but decided to add another quart to get to 6 quarts. The reading was above the fill mark by a quart. Drove it to work this morning and checked the level and it was all the way up the dipstick -- I couldn't even get a reading. Does checking the hot oil skew readings? Did I add too much oil? Should I drain a quart of oil? 6 quarts is the recommended level, right?

Yes, I had the kit.

Thanks guys. Yeah it was corroded. I did the rear pads this morning. Looks like there's a Torx screw in the rear rotors. Anyone have trouble removing that to replace rotors? I'll see how new pads go. If the pulsating persists I'll start over again and replace rotors and pads. Pads were like $50 total so it's worth the trial period to me. If I have to replace them in a year or so oh well.

Do I need a socket to get front or rear rotors off? I was going to replace pads and rotors this morning and couldn't get the front rotors off. It looked like a I needed a large socket to get rotor off, but maybe I was just looking at wheel hub but. Lol. I think it was just corroded onto the wheel. Either way I couldn't get the rotor off and didn't want to bang it too much in case I couldn't get it off. A few taps with a hammer did nothing. So I ended up just swapping out front pads even though old ones looked like they looked to have plenty of life left in them. I have pads for rears, didn't attempt to do them today. Thinking of doing rear pads and seeing if that helps. Thoughts?

I've got a 13 SEL, FWD...45K and I'm getting some pulsing from my brake pedal. I haven't taken a look at the pads/rotors yet but I am wondering if I should just go ahead and replace all pads and rotors or if people are noticing that the front or rears are wearing faster than the others. I had to replace the rear pads on my wife's VW Eos after 30K, and the fronts were fine until about 80K. I am wondering if this is the same. Also, is there any tool I need to remove the rotors? Should I rent a brake kit from the local Autozone? The wife's VW had a rotor lock.

My wife has a VW Eos...Q3 has same engine. Service and maintenance on the EOS is similar to a Benz. We're due for another DSG transmission fluid change, and last time it cost us around $600. So keep that in mind with Audi. Ford is still very easy to do some work yourself on. I don't even bother to try to change the oil on my wife's car. Too complicated.

I've done two oil changes and trans fluid drain and fills starting at 30K when the dealer service plan ended....SO EASY to do. Takes me about an hour, all said and done, and that includes lugging out all the gear, jacking up car, draining and replacing fluid, and cleaning up.

CR was very hung up on MFT which has never been an issue for me. In fact I don't know if I could ever drive a car without it.

Test drove a Rogue recently, it has a CVT trans and the engine was very loud and revvy. Car began to shake around 70 mph too, the Edge (2013) has the smoothest ride of any comparable crossover SUV's in the $30-35k range.

I'll be doing a drain and fill on trans fluid soon. Any tips?

I need to pick up 13 bundles of wood that are 7 ft long. I can get maybe two bundles in with the front passenger seat down but that's it. Is there anyway to tie down the rear gate so I can fit more bundles in and have them hang out the back of the gate? I did this in my Mariner with no problems but this seems to be difficult to do with the Edge, if at all. It's a 2013 SEL.

I don't get what all the fuss has been about. Sure it might take two pushes to get something to respond but nothing worse than any smart phone.

Ironically I just posted on the FWD forum about how well my '13 FWD SEL has been so far in the snow. Last year was a beast, snow-wise, but I got around fine. This year wasn't as bad but we got a foot last week and people were commenting on how well it handled in the snow. I know it all depends on how the tires hold up but I've been rotating my Michelins regularly and so far they've been fine. I would also suggest buying s pair of Tire Socks. I've considered it myself and I might buy them before next winter when my tires start wearing. With good tires, a FWD vehicle should be ok in most snow conditions. Obviously blizzards and ice is another thing.

So far I am very impressed with how my FWD Edge has handled in the snow. We got a foot here in MD yesterday and I was able to drive to and from work in the middle of the storm, and then back to work this morning on roads that were basically a sheet of ice. The Michelins that came with the car probably have a lot to do with that. That and very cautious driving. That said, I'm over this snow. Hopefully it was the last of the winter. I am ready to detail my car and get ready for the spring and summer!

Does the 2013 Edge have a cover? I don't think I've seen one but with the way the winter has been lately, I don't even want to get on the ground to take a look. I also never replaced the drain plug when I did oil changes on my Mariner...it may have been the original plug and I had the car 8 years...never had a leak.

I bought it there and so far I have no complaints as far as service but that may change... They said the alignment was good as is but did one and still charged for it anyway, I am curious if the steering wheel will be straight now because it was crooked and that was making me think an alignment was needed. If it's still crooked I will ask them to straighten it at no cost since they basically charged for an alignment when it wasn't necessary but he said "once you have it hooked into the computer you might as well do it". It was $80 so hopefully I get something out of it.

Taking it in today...Century Ford in Mt. Airy, MD.

Interesting. Mine pulls to the left. I'll check tire pressure though to see if that could be causing it....and it's been historically cold the last few weeks.

My car is 14 months old, 17K miles...and the steering wheel is slightly crooked to keep the vehicle straight. This seems pretty early for an alignment...haven't driven on bumpy roads, or hit bad potholes...kind of disappointed that I already have to shell out $90 to get it taken care of, but whatever. Anyone else had issues with this?

Looks good. I have a '13 SEL as well. I haven't done anything aside from a black tailgate strip and roof rack/cross bars. My wish list includes: - tinted front windows. - chrome strip on bottom of windows -- comes standard on Limited. - chrome liftgate logo strip - also standard on Limited. - Deezee running boards. - LED driving lights - HID headlights I might get around to doing them at some point. I'm in no hurry.

Love those wheels...wish my Edge came with them last year when I bought it.

About the AWD, make sure the PTU doesn't leak. A lot of older model Edges had that problem. Chances are the one you test drove already had that problem and it was fixed. I'd also look into a newer Edge with MFT and sync. But I love my Edge. Had it for a year and no issues whatsoever. Drives like a dream.