chefduane

My shop will take bring-in parts. Its a Goodyear store I've been going to for years and is owned by a guy I've known for years. I brought in the Motorcraft plugs, a Felpro gasket, and a full synth 75w140. So a more real estimate would include cost of the parts I brought in but it would still be less than if the shop charged me for the parts. I don't recall what I paid for the plugs or the gasket but the gear oil was about $20. Your guesstimate of $400 probably isn't that far off.

Ok, total bill on what I mentioned above was $315.97. The invoice lists PTU drain/fill was $75, sparkplugs were $220 and they also put the upper intake plenum gasket N/C. They list the summary as follows: Parts Total $19 Tax on Parts $1.57 Labor $295 Disposal fees $19 Charged Amount $315.57 Glad to get all that done.

I have an AVS Bugflector II on my Edge. Had one on my Explorer and was very happy. Recommended.

No problem. The estimate was $295 but I expect that could change.

Was taking my Edge in to my shop today to have them do a suck/fill on my PTU and remembered I had purchased Motorcraft plugs and an upper intake plenum gasket for when I did plugs. I figured I might as well have them do everything so I'm getting the PTU fluid changed, plugs, and a plenum gasket done all at once. Be good to go tomorrow. Nice to get this done before a trip down to Galveston later this month.

I agree its probably not needed. M-1 advertises it for vehicles over 75k. I've got 90k on my AWD LTD. Do you really think it will do harm?

Is the pedal difficult to depress initially then softens up when the brakes grab? That is the classic symptom of the failing brake booster. I'd agree with enigma about a caliper issue but also agree that eliminating the ABS system would be good to know. In the fuse/relay box under the hood there is fuse location 43 (30 amp) designated as "ABS Valves" and fuse location 92 (10 amp) designated "ABS Module." Don't know what pulling them will do as I never have had do that myself. If you have your manual it should give the fuse locations.

Always do the bed-in procedure after new brakes/pads install. Did you mean "No ABS light is on" or "No. ABS light IS on?" So is the ABS light on or off?

Sure it's not the booster issue? What symptoms are you having?

Oil change/filter change with Mobil-1 5w20 Hi Mileage and Mobil-1 filter. My interval is 5k and I just hit 90k. Need to start thinking about plugs. Also cleaned cabin air filter and engine air filter - both are AEM cleanable filters. Did a complete cabin vacuum and tomorrow will get it washed/waxed. Next will be to schedule with my local shop for a suck/fill on the PTU with Redline 58404. That stuff is hard to find retail so I'll probably have to order it. If anyone knows a national retailer (O'reilly's, Autozone, Advanced... etc) that carries it I'd be interested in that info. That is all. Carry on and mill about smartly.

I had the backup lines disappear on my OEM camera. The camera is original with the car. I used the Forscan re-calibration procedure to 're-install' the backup lines. But when I turned the ignition off then back on again the lines disappeared. I did the procedure 3 times with the same results. (I reported this in another thread on the subject.) So apparently recalibrating even a Ford OEM camera can fail to reinstall the backup lines. Its not that big a deal and I have just learned to live with it but it is a bit irksome.

Filter magnets, pan magnets, hyperdyne tru-flo framister condensers... whatever. The most important part of an oil change is that you do them regularly with a quality oil, dino or synth, and with a quality filter. QED Thus Endeth the Lesson

Reasonable question. Don't really know, but I change my coolant (simple drain & fill) every 30k miles.

I have the Ford one on my '11 LTD AWD. Frankly, there are aftermarket protectors that are just as good as the Ford OEM ones and much less expensive. If I had done some more research before I bought the Ford branded one, I would have gone with aftermarket.

The lawyers make them state the re-torqueing procedure due to the liability issue. Just go ahead and torque them to 100ft lbs and be done. Of course, then if your wheel falls off I'll have to ask if you followed the re-torqueing procedure.

Here in Texas we don't get to 122F (least not here in Dallas) but we do get multiple 100+ days regularly and easily 95+ straight for weeks/months during the summer. I do a simple drain and fill every 30k miles. With the known issues of the water pump design and the higher temps, I don't want to even THINK about having a water pump failure. I do not do a full 'flush' just a drain and fill which I think is sufficient at the interval I run. Also, there are months straight where all my windows never come down and the A/C runs continuously. I try to check that every summer and keep it topped off with a lubricating refrigerant. I also run Mobil-1 full synth and change that every 5k miles. I'm not going to mess with a different thermostat from OEM. I keep my rear windows cracked about 1/2" when parked and regularly use an aluminized windshield sun shade to reflect back as much solar heat as is possible. Unfortunately parking inside at work is not an option for me but I do what I can. That's about it. Do what you can and hope for the best, or change jobs to a different state with different climate with enclosed parking.

Bem vindo de Plano, TX. You don't very often see an SEL AWD. I wonder if it was a special order originally. Also, low miles for an '11!

Wow! For all you guys that have complained about the internal water pump design, you were right!!! What a design! And that's the LONGEST darn timing chain I have EVER seen!! I am for sure going to keep doing regular coolant changes on schedule and hope for the best!

Nice lookin' Edge! There are some cosmetic mods that are easy to do: hood air deflector, window deflectors (if that's your thing), rear bumper sill protector (get an aftermarket, not the Ford one), puddle lamp and interior LED upgrades. Also some mechanicals that aren't really difficult: Redline Hood Struts (very cool), wire up an engine compartment LED light, also if you are interested you can install aftermarket air filters (AEM, K+N, etc) and maybe a cleanble and re-usable cabin filter. And I put on a lockable gas cap 'cause I'm an old school guy.

Jasoneg, then I would assume that your vehicle is not covered under the extended APIM warranty provisions.

If you go on the Etis site and type in your VIN it will tell you if you have been granted an extension on your APIM Warranty. My suggestion is to print it out and take it with you to the dealer when/if you have an issue with your APIM Sometime dealers 'forget' about those things. Not disparaging ALL dealers, just some.

Folks always remember McQueen's Mustang from 'Bullitt', but the Charger was also a pretty badass car itself.

Omar, I found my vehicle in ETIS but nowhere can I find anything that says "Minor Feature." Can you be a bit more specific as to where that might be. Thanks!

366,000 Kms is 227,422 miles. Really? On an '11? That's 32,500 miles a year. That's a lot of miles. Any problems with the PTU? If not, then I gonna' stop worrying about the PTU on my '11 LTD AWD. I've only got a paltry 88k miles on mine.

^ Old Charger? '68 maybe? Nice composition on the pic.