BLACK ICE

Another solution is to order Osram Nightbreakers which are +90 bulbs. They are EU legal and many places have started to sell them in US so they may have DOT approval soon. However I've been running them in my 98 Audi for low beam for 2 years now. They are a huge upgrade over Silverstarsor Silverstar Ultra by Osram and still only draw power like a 55W standard halogen. They don't melt sockets . They focus well and give about 100 ft more light distance on low beams , the pattern is wider also . The downside is life is usually only 2-4 yrs , the tradeoff is they supply amazingly bright white , not blue light . They even make a heavy-duty filament version for motorcycles . I have one friend who has been using them 3 yrs and hasn't had one fail yet. Price on Amazon or Ebay is usually better than buying standard Silverstars from a local parts store. I paid $38 for my bulbs , shipped from California . I would be cautious on ordering out of China or Hong Kong for fear of them being counterfeited parts . You would need H11 for low beams or 9005 bulbs for high beam .

I was thinking of painting the bezels with bedliner spray so that its chip resistant and textured . I think it will stick well over the chrome with just a scuffing .

My family makes a few trips East or South a year . Its usually an 8-12 hour trip and if loaded lightly we have seen 28 mpg avg with 18s and Michelins . If average payload to fully loaded we get 25 mpg highway . I'd say we get 22-23 in mixed driving with a FWD 2008 model . Have seen 18 mpg HWY once in cold , rainy , hilly conditions and lots of traffic in PA .

on my Edge had rear sockets do a meltdown . Changed to new bulbs when I fixed the problem but see its a common issue on these vehicles that Ford hasn't addressed . I'm thinking of changing to another dual filament bulb with less amp draw to prevent future meltdowns.

After I get some time on the pads on the Edge I'll update this thread . Ceramicool pads I had on my A4 were better than most , comparible to the Posi-Quiets I'm running now. The Ceramicool were a little more aggressive hot , squeeled when cold , but had almost NO dust . I nearly ordered Posi-Quiets for the Edge but the more I searched all over the WWW I found that it looked as if the Power Stops had a higher friction level . I know from having put Power Stops on both front and rear of a friends Passat that they are very grippy . His wife complained afterwards that they were TOO agressive cold . If I can get that from a set I'll be thrilled . A few reviews I saw said that cold they had less friction than when warmed up . I'm hoping thats true . Being you've run PF carbons , you'll like that I had to drive a car 10-15 miles with a bad brake hose with those pads . It had the caliper locked . It was night and winter . When I got out of the car the rh front rotor was glowing red like a race car rotor . The excess heat cracked the back of one pad to plate surface . That pad was down to a few mm , but It made it home without it failing. BTW , Posi-Quiets and StopTechs are owned by Centric now , so Centrics branded upper end products are benefiting from in the family type improvements . There is a cheap Centric product and premium that seem to stand up now against other industry products . I've had crappy EBC , Delco , Wagner and Raybestos products in the past , the bad EBCs being a pad failure I had just this year . I've given up on trusting any brand as a whole and have now gotten into shopping an exact product within a companies range of offerings . I work in a dealership and have started see hit and misses in all brands these days . Its getting hard to always trust products that I had in the past .

I ordered Power Stop front pads this weekend . From my searching they must have around a .45 brake coefficient and be a high level FF , FG or GG pad . Have been looking around and for street these may be the higher friction alternative I've been looking for. At only 25k miles on our 2008 , it has about 6-7mm left on front pads and maybe 5-6mm on rears . All our factory rotors are dead smooth and I plan on scuffing them with a Roloc disc in my grinder before installing the pads . Doing fronts first to make sure these pads are more aggressive than the factory pads before I buy any for the rear . If I don't purchase a set of the these for th back end I'm leaning towards Centric premium ceramics or Posi-Quiet ceramics . In past 10-15 years I've also used on various cars Axxis Ultimates , EBC greens , Ceramicools , ATE , Ferodo and Performance Friction brakes . I think other than the choices that I'm looking at only Axxis Ultimate ceramics would be in the same range of higher friction , but would dust a bit more and are ever so slightly worse for rotor wear.

I installed non-lighted Momo brand aluminum sill plates on all our vehicles . They for some reason have corroded on the Edge . Moisture must sit on them in our climate . I'd think that if his sill plates have lighting the wiring will have to have a hole in panel that water could enter if it isn't sealed well . The only other way possible is a pigtail that runs under the inner sill plastic panel and weatherstrip to where it could be routed along the rocker and inner kick panel into the dash harness .

I know it was pirated but I bought a CD from ebay for under $10 . It was supposed to be just for the 2008 generation Edge but turned out to be a copy of about 7 Ford Truck models taken from factory manuals . Its not complete on each model but it included probably 95% of the Edge manual and is sufficient for most anything someone who DIYs would need. I'd think your heat door issue might be from hot expansion having warped the door and damaging it from binding or if you live in a cold part of the country ice intrusion into the system from winter ice buildup on the exterior cowel panel. I've seen both these scenarios in various makes through the years in the shop where I work . Its happened because of the bad winters we had two or more years ago and the high summer heat that the country has experienced. I work in a GM shop and there has been a higher than normal number of heater/ac door damage than I've ever seen . I know guys who do leak repairs and they have seen ice or water intrusion on Ford, Chrysler , GM , Toyota , Hyundai and BMW in the past few years that hadn't been issues before. So even if you get your problem fixed , look for a root cause as a precaution .

Its been a couple years since this thread started but I can fill you in that this problem has been in a bulletin at Ford . The vehicle was driven too long after the initial staying in 1st gear problem and it made for more damage than if the vehicle had been taken to a dealer when it started. Ours started doing this randomly and putting the car in park shutting it off and restarting it would make the trans return to normal operation. The dealer replaced two solenoids in the transmission and did a reprogramming about 18 months ago and its been perfect since. This transmission is a jointly developed transmission that GM is also using . Its actually a pretty good transmission . GM resorts to complete valve body assemblies when they have have issues while Ford is servicing more individual components . In the future more small transmissions shops along with Transtar and parts suppliers will gain more knowledge of its problems and fixes both factory and aftermarket will be able to easily address whats appearing as problems. link info: http://en.wikipedia....ic_transmission

Surprised I haven't had any speaker issues with our Edge but have had the CD changer go into ERROR mode twice . Had to get a new unit and dealer had problems getting the changer to work with the steering wheel controls . Took 4 visits to get it rectified . All this happened immediately after they did the coolant pipe recall and its a known issue that with battery disconnection and reconnecting a voltage spike can ruin the radio/cd . I figure that this is what happened . I work for a sister company of the dealership and couldn't give them a bad dealer survey or I'd catch hell at work.

Sorry I hadn't been here in a couple years , our Edge has been very trouble free and I hang out on some Audi sites because I constantly work on our two quattros. . The basics without getting into numbers is E ratings fade at a lower temp and as numbers go up to H these show almost no fade at any temp EE pads mean the coefficent is so low the have less friction when cold 1st E and Hot 2nd E . FF pads have decent friction cold and hot and should be the standard . When you buy a cheap pad you will see EE or FE ratings , skip either FG is what I run on my Audi , found a Centric rear ceramic with that rating and front Posi-Quiets with . 45 stamped directly on them GG are high performance and will seldom fade at lower temp or high temps HH are race grade All the following I copy and pasted from a Mustang Web site years ago into a word file: Official D.O.T. Edge Code Coefficient of Friction (C.F.) @ 250 F and @ 600 F EE 0.25 to 0.35 both temps 0-25% fade at 600 F possible FE 0.25 to 0.35 @ 250 F 0.35 to 0.45 @ 600 F 2% to 44% fade at 600 F possible FF 0.35 to 0.45 both temps 0-22% fade at 600 F possible GG 0.45 to 0.55 Very Rare HH 0.55 to 0.65 Carbon/Carbon only. O.K. up to 3000 F where it glows Edge codes are located on the edge of the friction material of every brake pad by government regulation, along with some other codes. The first letter is a grading of the C.F. at 250 F and the second letter is a grading of the material at 600 F. Each letter grade can actually have quite a range of C.F. But a difference in the letter grade from medium to hot temperature could be an indicator of fade. The letters can be in any order. Therefore FE pads fade when hot, and EF pads would not grab when cold.. Also, you should know that Steel on Steel has a C.F. of 0.25!! So EE pads have only marginally more torque than no pads at all! Therefore FF pads are usually considered the minimum for a high-performance pad.

The same transmission being in different weight vehicles could make the heavier GM models fail more frequently. :yup:

I'll say you are dead on with this theory. I just got back from a 1204 mile roundtrip to NC from Ohio . I drove shortcuts going down ,taking 595 miles and getting 27 mpg in 50-60's temps . We drove just 44 miles locally in 4 days(20-45 mph) there and returned today in 40's temps dropping to 20-30's and mixed rain/snow . On this return trip the mileage dropped considerably to the teens. We took some different short cuts for a 565 mile return trip but used more fuel . We ended up averaging 24.3 mpg for the entire trip but would have done much better if the temperatures hadn't gone down. I'm wondering if our local fuel vs what we filled with down south could have affected our MPGs also.

Tried to post reply in two forums and repeatly got errors . Once it said I wasn't logged in ,which I was . Closed forum and relogged in to post this. Its usually been the menu disabled error if that helps you. Also I've gotten the message that I'm not authorized to post in a forum or that message link has been closed. Its happened off and on since I joined ,but seems to be getting worse.

Don't be sorry , Cleveland is a comeback city . The Brownies have even won a few games lately . Great restaurants downtown , theatre district and places like the House of Blues , Hard Rock , the Rock Hall , etc. I'm originally from NC ,lived in TX for 8 yrs in the oil business and now here for 24 . Doesn't that make me an honorary Buckeye? BTW ,I'm from Munroe Falls.

Most people knew H & R and Eibach have lowering springs ,but today I found H&R rear sway bar also exists . Now if we could get someone to modify the program for the stability control we could work even more on the cornering . Don't know when I'll approach the wife on lowering ,maybe after we've had it 24 months or so ,then I can tell her tires will wear better with it lowered. Just a thought. H & R FWD or AWD rear sway bar #71605 $ 250.00 H & R LOWERING SPRINGS fwd and awd # 51605 $300

When I find a good reputable aftermarket performance supplier I will add it to the Word file of parts that I'm working at. I've posted once with oe parts # and some aftermarket but I'm working on a suppliers list also. Just keep watching the forum ,it may be a while before I get as much info as I'm looking for. I may include some sizes : I'm also trying to get wheel widths ,stablizer bars dia, maybe wheel offsets etc. FWD Rotors 295 mm AWD Rotors 320mm RR rotors all 302mm

I've had posting issues

VERY nice. Thanks for your time and dedication to all of us Edge Heads No problem , being a parts guy its comes naturally. I have a short list of performance parts so far ,but I won't submit that until a few more things come out. I've found j slotted rotors , performance pads that should be available late this year to early next .I've found two cold air intake systems . The Steeda computer enhancements ,with CAI and exhaust will be there . Also trying to find some step plates that fits nicely like the MOMO ones on my Audi ,but without the big pricetag. In this same area I've been checking out dead pedals too , to keep crap off the carpet.So far two sets of lowering springs are out there . Looking for strut tower brace to appear and I'm wondering if a modification for the stability program will come about . At some point I'll measure the rear sway bar for urethane bushing size. I also wrote Steeda customer service for a few things that they should look into. Hopefully my input is appreciated there as well. :stats: ps: I put it in Word format to make it an easier cuts and paste to your own systems and then you can add / delete for a customized document of your own.

As far as I know these are the correct part # for 2007 , 2008 and 2009 EDGE and MKX Use this list at your own risk , double check the part # and application if using the numbers here. This list may cut down some searching for some people . I plan to keep adding to this on my own system, when I compile a list of performance parts as more become available . OE Ford part #s Front brake Rotors FWD # 7U2Z-1V125-DA Motorcraft # BRR-151 Front brake Rotors AWD # 7U2Z-1V125-EA Motorcraft # BRR-152 Rear brake rotors # 7U2Z-2V026-F Motorcraft # BRR-153 Oil filter #E4FZ-6731-AB Motorcraft # FL400S Air filter #7T4Z-9601-A Motorcraft # FA1884 Cabin Filter Motorcraft # FP-65 Sparkplugs Platinum #AYFS22FM Motorcraft # SP-411 Fog lamps bezels LH #7T4Z-17E810B Fog lamps bezels RH #7T4Z-17E811B MKX chrome mirror caps #7T4Z-17D742C and #7T4Z-17D743C Roof rack crossbars #7T4Z-7855100-BA Short #55100 Rear bumper protector #7T4Z-17B807-AA Short #17B07 Transmission filter #FT-172 Wheel locks #7T4Z-1A043A Motorcraft thermostat # RT1172 Motorcraft radiator cap # RS103 Parts some non-Ford #'s Spark Plugs NGK V-power # 2683 NGK G-power # 7159 NGK Iridium # 7316 Brake pads Delco Durastop Ceramic ,same as Raybestos Front # 17D1258ACH Rear # 17D1259CH Raybestos Front #PGD1258AC Rear # PGD1259C SATISFIED BRAKE Pro series Ceramic Front # PR1258C Rear # PR1259C Goodridge braided brake hoses # 13098 Fram air filter # CA10242 K&N oil filter # HP2009 , Mobil 1 filter # M1209 , Bosch # 3422 Wiper blades attach with 3mmx9mm hook and are Drivers 24" and Passenger 19" BULB TYPES-standard industry #s Headlamps highbeam 9005 lowbeam H11 -55w Park /turn signal 3157A amber bulb Tail lamps /rear turn/stop lamps 4157 Foglamps H11-55w License lamp 6418 Back up lamp 921 Rear side marker 194 Maplight 2825 Domelight 578 Courtesy light 2825

Try changing a couple of the names in your menu that it confuses and see if that takes care of the issue.

I have the same issues with another Bluetooth item ..NOT SYNC . I have a Sony Ericcson speakerphone that does the same thing . I've found making the names far different and pronouncing them well helps greatly . Fortunately the Sony device states the call its going to make and then asks the next closer in pronunciation if I say no to it dialing a number.. I have it happen less frequently now that I've changed some names in my address book. i think its an issue with the voice recognition software in general on many Bluetooth devices..

Several days ago I cleaned and washed over and under our 3 wk old SE . Last night I started with the first 3 cans of spray , completed tonight in less than 2 hrs total time . There are many brands of wax type rustproofing sprays . To do this job fairly well 5-6 cans will do the job . I have been unsatisfied with professional jobs before and have done this on two vehicles with good results for the time and money expended . This is the semi-clear type wax that can be used on surfaces or inside panels . Supplies needed: 5 to 6 20oz cans of Rusfre , Nuxudol , Inter-Guard or similar type wax rustproofing . Rusfre was $8 per can. These are all professional quality and come from bodyshop supply stores (see Yellowpages) use a paint mask of some sort and old clothes large painting drop cloth ramps or jack stands plastic spray nozzle/with extension for can 2 hrs time use masking tape to attach the sprayer tube(wand) to the nozzle on a couple cans (trust me) Having the Edge up on a ramp or jack stands makes it a little easier. Spread the drop cloth and start by spraying into the water drain holes on the inside of the bottom of the doors. Spray some towards center and upwards just enough to get it in the bottom seam. Spray (without the wand) the inside bottom of the door seams about 1 inch to 1 1/2 wide. Next do the inside seams of the hood from the many holes ,then the wheel houses and inner front fenders through holes etc . Proceed to the subframe rails holes and the small drain holes along the rocker seams . I was able to use 3 cans doing the doors and inner channels and then used two cans on the underside surfaces and the inner bumper bar steel surfaces. I even had enough to spray the front control arms surfaces and inside cavity areas. For the money expended I think I hit more of the real problem areas than the last "professional " rustproofing I paid for . There are also 4 plugs that you can remove and spray inside areas. One on each rear door lock pillar lower and one on either side of the lift gate (spray downwards towards bottom .Also spray the door hinge mounting surfaces and bolts . I didn't drill any new holes and this type spray is easily cleaned up with thinner or lighter fluid. It is almost clear and doesn't look ugly on the under the hood surfaces but offers great protection for a small investment. I completed the job with 5 cans but got every ounce they contained ,if you got any bad aerosol you might need an extra can.

I have the silver painted 18" wheels on our SE . I'm so glad I didn't get the chrome ones. Didn't know about the issues on those until after the purchase. Just lucked out on getting these instead. I have some RainX spray wheel protectant that works okay ,but true wheel wax is even better for the painted wheels .

And for those that buy a factory Ford bumper protector . Watch out on the install! Mine was off by about 1/8 " on the backing sheet . I taped down the alignment marked area and carefully peeled off the paper and started the install . When half way through putting it on I realized that even thought the front was aligned correctly the curve along the bumper was off a slight amount . It was too late for me to take it off . Its only a minor amount ,most people wouldn't even notice it . It just bugs me. If installing one measure the rear area also and then align and tape down the front corners to get a perfect install. I'm considering using a heat gun and removing and putting another one on.