clegg78

From the Manual - 162ft/lb My wrench goes to 160... so the click + a bit of a bump (my bigger torque wrench got stolen... need to replace it)

They were tight but were likely 10ftlbs under spec when I went to re tighten them (not uncommon for various lug nuts after a month or two after install). Maybe a few were more loose than that but none were what I would consider "loose" by any means. First time for me as well to hear this from brakes!

Hey there, I am just curious if this is a common thing with aftermarket rotors. I have Powerstop rotors on my '17 Edge Sport. Zero issues with them after about 4K miles. I noticed that when backing out of my parking spot and tapping the brakes initially I hear a small pop, then going forward the first braking I hear another. I pulled the front wheels off and noticed there is some play between the lugs and the holes on the rotor. Maybe 1/16". I checked the caliper brackets, and pins and everything is tight. I reinstalled the wheels (this only started happening to any level I noticed after I swapped winter tires/wheels on...) and re-torqued all 4, and the noise went away which confirmed to me that it is the rotors moving on the lugs. I figure I can tighten the wheels and keep that from happening as much but was more curious if this is a normal "to be expected" behavior for aftermarket rotors if the wheels aren't at or above the torque spec for the wheels. I normally retorque newly installed wheels after a month of driving and that is about where I am on these, so it was time, but still I've not heard this before on OE rotors.

That seems kind of normal for all dealers right now, Ford is really dragging their feet on parts for this repair!

The J2GZ parts are the actual Recall tracked parts. Its to easily identify if a recall has been done. The parts above F2GZ are the OEM standard parts that are shipped on all the cars. Mine that I ordered were mfg'd March 2021 (edit, just looked at a pic I took to get the right date) , so well after the recall and parts fix was done. They are the same hose/fitting otherwise. Most dealers/parts depts wont sell or even offer the J2GZ parts for non dealer installs and parts supply issues.

Yeah I left the master cyl closed/reservoir cap on. If you are just replacing the hoses and not re-mounting the calipers, the only real important thing would be to make sure you clean the area around the hose connections well as it will be out of your view for the most part. Ensure you have a lot of water/brake cleaner around... I tried both ways of disconnecting the hose at the chassis first then the caliper, and vice versa and both methods make quite a mess. Have the old brake hose unbolted at the strut and ready to be removed when you start, put down some pig blanket/absorbent pad to catch all the fluid. Also make sure the right hose goes on the right side they are directional. That's really it, just be sure to wash off all the brake fluid that goes all over! You shouldn't drain much out of the reservoir doing this, but make sure its topped off before you start.

Sweet, that works. Every pot hole I hope I blow one of the stock shocks to justify the order of the B6's

This is great info! Question I have though is I would rather not drop the ride height of the car, as I do use it often on some pretty interesting dirt roads, and do drive in a lot of snow. That is the only concern I have with the H&R springs is that they drop the height! is there an option at stock ride height that still improve the ride?

Good call on that, I found some 10mm copper washers at the local parts store and used them Got my brain swap done and new hoses on the front! No waiting on the dealer for their delays

If you want to do the work yourself: https://www.ebay.com/itm/133607477882 and https://www.ebay.com/itm/133607479147 (These dont include washers, but I am going to reuse the existing ones.)

I designed a small tool that fits snug on the radiator drain valve / petcock on my 2.7L Ecoboost, but I believe it will also work on 2.0L and other models as well. I am not 100% sure how wide spread the 19mm petcock is in the Ford lineup. I designed this to fit and hold onto the petcock so the extension and ratchet can just stay there while flushing cycles on the cooling system. No need to get under the car, you can do this laying next to the drivers side wheel easily (once the splash shields are removed). Based on some requests I printed a handful of them and are selling them (and will make more if there is demand, and other sizes if people have requests) on my store: https://jk3d.us/product/ford-ecoboost-radiator-drain-tool/ The tool is printed in chemical resistant, and highly durable Carbon Fiber Nylon and should last a very very long time. I am selling these for $7. Pics of the tool: I posted the design for free on Thingiverse if you want to print it yourself: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4939121

So... I got tired of waiting on ford and the recall parts, you can order the new model parts without too much worry. F2GZ-2078-H and F2GZ-2078-G are the replacement hoses for the recall (they have a slightly different PN as part of the recall starting with a J). The dealers screwed me around on getting the right parts, but you can order them on Tasca or even Ebay easily and do the work yourself in 45 min or so.

I am looking at bit long term in the next year or so when the suspension on my Edge Sport starts to die out. Seems the ST uses largely all the same mounting points and suspension components, but different specs. I Read on a R&T review that there was a significant change to the rear suspension? ANd roll rate changes to the sway bars, but after looking at the part numbers on Tasca it seem they share the same part numbers for the sway bars. The front struts and rear shocks are all different part numbers but seem similar, and then its down to figuring out which springs are the right PN for the ST, since they list a dozen of them it seems. If I am going to do Struts/shocks in a year i'd be game to make the car a bit more well sprung like the ST. Anyone swapped those parts? I have zero interest in buying a ST, as my well pampered and now tuned Sport is still very nice, but getting some of the vehicle dynamics perks of the ST would be handy

HA Dang, I just noticed this thread! (Not sure how I missed it), guess I'll need to keep watching to get in on V3

Just did this install yesterday on my 2017 Sport. My chubby hands were hard pressed to make it under the motor mount (I removed the expansion tank as I was draining the system anyway and left the moto mount in place). Its doable, but was minorly frustrating. Only dropped a socket once! and a magnet wand was handy to retrieve the screws and washers out of the housing. In the end the Termostat took ~ 1hr which isn't bad given I've never worked on that part of the engine before. Only struggle is that my 1/4" drive sockets weren't deep enough to reach and get around the housing, and my 3/8" ratchets are big so I didn't get a lot of throw in removing the lower bolt. I did relocate the grounding wire out of the way forward of the engine that gives more room for the ratchet. I put in the Motorad 655-160 (160F) thermostat - same one that LMS sells for $60, you can get on amazon for $20, and new washer. The install went well I think, and flushed the system with the newer Motorcraft yellow coolant. I'm ordering a LMS programmer and tune in the coming days and wanted to be ready.

I've been watching this thread a bit, I had some damaged rear rotors I needed to replace and chose to upgrade the entire front and rear (and do the front brake line recall myself, cause all the dealers near me annoy the hell out of me). I went with the Powerstop setup mentioned (slotted/drilled). I've had EBC, StopTech (and Power Slot Cryo rotors they bought), Centric, and a few other brands on other cars, from what I can tell the Powerstop stuff is roughly the same. I've had some real issues with EBC and Centric in the past... with Centric pads being kind of junk and loud AF, and EBC pads either not braking well or being noisy/dusty AF. So I figure I'd try something else. And for the price, shipped via Amazon for free... its a no brainer. I am a tad concerned with the slotted aspect of the rotors, but we'll see how it goes, I've had great success, and some nasty vibrations from certain installs of slotted/drilled rotors on some cars. On another topic I was browsing the Tasca, and was noticing how inexpensive the calipers, rotors, etc... are for the "Performance" big brake kit from the 2019+ Edge ST From my math it seems you could do the full ST Performance brake package for ~ $1000 with the new calipers included. That's WAY cheaper than the $2500 upcharge on an ST to get them added. Anyone retrofitted them? They don't seem to be THAT much of an improvement and do restrict wheel choices a bit. But I found that interesting. Larger / Vented rear brake rotors would be nice, but I am betting you need the larger fronts as well or you'll throw the brake balance/bias all off.

So I am noticing that the powertrain on the Edge is VERY conservative on when it will let you downshift. I was driving spirited the other day and wanted to downshift entering a corner, and the gear number just sat there and flashed even when trying to go from 4 ->3 and the RPMs were at ~ 2800. More than enough head room for the engine to rev match that downshift. Anyone know what the max RPM the ECU will allow the downshift to hit, because it seems like it would be below 5K. Do the LMS tunes change this behavior at all? Joe

because moar power is moar power!

any way to get the lincoln MKX tune on the Edge? (as an intermediate step before going full LMS)

looks like the same engine has a 315 (edge) spec, 325 (Fusion) and 335 (MKX) specs.... this just software? or are there actual differences in the engines?

Makes sense, for road trips I tend to increase the pressure as well.

Having done a good bit of AutoX in the past - a tires optimal pressure for grip is not the same as the optimal pressure for longevity on the road. Same on motorcycles. 2 of the biggest names in motorcycle handling courses and training (Keith Code and Lee Parks) recommend ~4 PSI under factory recommendations on motorcycle tires for street riding and track use because it increases grip by a good margin and keeps the tires in optimal temperatures easier in inclement weather. But it does all depend on the tire. If you use more performance focused tires with higher temps for their optimal window you run lower pressures to keep them there. If you are going for efficiency and longevity you put higher pressure in. Higher pressure (than factory recommended) will virtually always cost you traction and wet weather braking capabilities. This is very similar to the fact that bigger rims will almost always cost peak traction in exchange for high response on inputs.

I am also having this issue with our new 2017... havent taken it to the dealer yet as most of what I read sound like hack fixes.

Hey there, I am a long time car guy, but new to the Edge. I've been on many car forums over the years (NASIOC, FocalJet, VWVortex, etc...) for the various cars I've owned. (VW R32, Focus SVT, VW Touareg TDI, 2002 WRX, etc...) We were shopping for a new car and since we are a one car house hold we had to find a compromise between the Focus RS or Golf R I wanted and a SUV that my wife wanted. We were coming from a '14 Touareg TDI. The Edge fit the bill with the 2.7L ecoboost plant and similar interior space to the Touareg. So I am happy to find this forum as the Edge is the car that it seems Ford invests in but it caters to a very diverse community much of which is not car geeks. We took our new 2017 Sport Edge (with all the options) on a road trip from Denver, CO, to central Nebraska to see the clipse last weekend, and went from 60 miles on the odo to 900 in a few days. Happy I had a local specialty shop install clear bra on the car the day before the trip... the front of the car was assaulted by a plague of locusts or grasshoppers we drove through. The car is epic! And the gizmos and gadgets are awesome (Lane assist and adaptive cruise control is life changing) I do have some gripes - the passenger seat belt buckle rattles against the B pillar when there is no one in the passenger seat, and I also get the sulfur exhaust smell in the car under heavy acceleration. But happy to be here in a very niche community of car geeks for the Edge Attached are some pics of the car on the NE trip, and one of the photos I snapped of the eclipse.

On the topic of oil changes - My dealer offered the first 2 oil changes for "free" with the car, but looking at the specs they are using dino oil and not synthetic... do these 2.7L plants not favor synthetic? My last turbo car required it because of coking on the oil passages in the turbos and such. Just found that weird.