CTFordfan

That is the radiator support. It is super fragile at those two top ears. I had to order 6 before i received one that was not damaged.

I have the hankook ventus noble on my 17 from the factory. I do not recommend these tires. Very nice on hot dry pavement like s florida but surprisingly slippery on cold rain and snow surface. Michelins are a bit expensive but i always liked them. I would consider Bridgestone also.

I had Bridgestone e copia on my 11 that were super smooth and real quiet.

Suspension bushings are a pain to change out- now a days you can likely get the whole assembly, bushings included and replace the entire trailing arm. Dont be tempted with the much lower cost of the bushings alone - the labor is tough and you may need a press. Check rock auto.

Timkens from rock auto and borrow a slide hammer from au o zone. If you are keeping it for a while anti sieze everything.

Please post the remedy- we are a curious bunch who like the info. Thanks

There was a recall on a certain run date where the torque converter to flexplate bolts were not installed correctly.

So the dealer provided a pkg of red plastic insert nuts- wrong part, i have none of these in any position. Dealer provided screws with a torx head- wrong part, i have none of these in any position. Dealer provided- after I sent my wife back again and told them i need a metal insert, a small metal snap in insert that was correct and it accepts a 4.2 x 1.41 x 20 mm screw with built in washer. So again, even the dealer cannot tell which fastener is in what position with this dismal diagram. I had to tell them what was there, odd. While i was under there i also put two of those inserts where the plastic push in fastners are, and added 2 screws. i could not get them to snap in tight. So now I need only the 7mm driver to remove the cover. Anyone who changes oil must hate these covers.

My daughter was only a couple miles from home and it started to leak onto the ground. She drove it home- grrrrrrrr- and advised me she thought it was overheating. Luckily it did not overheat much. I did request the dealer do a compression test before repairs and it was ok. I do not recall the readings but they were within 5%. She now understands that you NEVER drive an overheating vehicle so lesson learned.

My 2011 3.5 with orange coolant went 142,000 before watrepump failure. Mine did not leak coolant into the engine. $1800 at the dealer and they replaced one short timing chain and some chain guides. Coolant was not flushed until 120,000 so it is probably wise to do it every 30k. The 3.5 is a very good design, with exception to this internal water pump design. Makes no sense to inernally mount a part that is well known to have a finite life span. I personally do not trust these new so called lifetime fluids- coolant and transmission fluid rated to go 5 yrs or 150k- 60 k max on both is enough. Sooner if severe duty driving.

I believe I have a oem passenger side for a 2011. A used take off. Cheap- doing me no good sitting around.

What you are describing sounds like a wheel bearing or possibly cv joint. Did you try to raise that wheel and feel for any play? 30 k is definitely low mileage for a bearing failure but rt front is prone to curbs and pot holes.

So what exactly is the issue? Bad piston rings or valve train issues. It states the symptoms and remedy but does not discuss what the problem is.

Thanks- Much appreciated-

Wow-replacing engines!! This should be interesting. I would hate my new vehicle being taken apart. I wonder if they will offer buy backs?

My 2011 3.5 water pump failed at 142,000 $1800 at the dealer- done in one day. Replaced short chain and a few guides while in there. This was Feb 17. This is the shortcoming of a great engine. Water pump should be a serviceable part.

After a little more research- not specific to this 2.0 but in older vehicles the seperator is supposed to seperate the oil vapor, and then drain the oil back into the crankcase. Does not seem like a good idea unless it is very efficient, which it is obviously not, otherwise we would not need a seperate catch can. I hate emissions.

Thanks you are correct, seperator, been reading so much im confusing myself. Anyway if it is seporating something from the pcv system you would think it is storing it in a filter or something. If not how is it not just dumping everything back together to burn. I think the literature states the emission system needs no maintenance but even the old simple pcv valve would get gunked up and need cleaning or replacement.

parts.levittownfordparts.com Yes I am on an ipad, got to go to the laptop to post a pic.

Good videos. I wish there was a better diagram specific to the edge 2.0 but I understand these are a universal type of part made to span multiple applications. I was asking what the existing "collector" in the emission system does and if it needs servicing. #8 in the emission diagram. Trying to figure out how to post a pic.

Rock auto has shocks for the sport tuned suspension. My go to source, great prices.

Thanks- almost forgot about my project car- 1969 Ranchero Rio Grande. 351 cleveland 2v. One of 77 acording to the Marti report. Also a 1965 Olds Cutlass convertible- did a 30 month frame off about 6 years ago. 383 stroker B and M 400 trans. 440 hp/470 tq Straight back dual exhaust, old school no crossover. It is a rip! Sounds awesome.

I am in CT so we have similar weather temp wise. I see on the emissions parts drawing for my 17 it has something called a collector but it has no drain. Any idea what exactly it collects and does it need servicing? We garage ours so morning start ups are rarely below 40F. I am seriously considering a catch can as soon as my warranty is up.

So what is the consistency of that liquid? Watery or more like oil? Looks like motor oil. Are you running full synthetic?

The dealer- looking at the same drawing I was, could not tell which type nut this position is. They only had the red plastic nuts in stock but i thought this spot had a metal nut- I will know soon enough when I can get under there again. Anyone know for sure?