Cerberus

i don't have the patience to watch that video. one second in, and i'm out. I'll just trust you, apparently i'm wrong mark the date .. lol

I know my 2016 sport had a clutched RDU. But no disconnect in the PTU in my year

Disregard! Yes but even if the PTU disconnect is disconnected, the rear wheels are still rolling down the road, and driving the driveshaft. Unless there is a disconnect at both ends of the driveshaft? I didn't think they did that..

Disregard!

this looks right to me from my recollection

automatic transmission and motorcycle clutches (aside from a handful of exceptions) operate in an oil bath

I hope it's just the battery getting old.. 3 years is not a long time for a quality battery, but if you were using the auto stop/start system, then it does make some sense that the battery would be tired if it did a lot of cycles. FWIW I also had the H7 installed but I traded that vehicle in and don't have pictures I don't think

Not 100% sure but I suspect H7 is the largest, and more than the vehicle really needs unless you have auto start stop enabled (which i vehemently advise against)

Personally, given the quote I was given to do the job at the dealership, I'd buy or rent the evap pump and gauge set. Even if you buy them it's much cheaper to do it yourself. I already owned the tools so it was an absolute no trainer for me. And yes, I would have recommended R&Ring the belt and idler/tensioner while you're there. I did. I'm in the Knox area but my time is so monopolized by my employer, that i simply don't have enough hours off in a row to even entertain the idea of a job of this size. But it's not a hard job of you have all the tools you need and the perseverance to see it through. The hardest part to me was the awkward positioning on jackstands which had my working the absolute hell out of my neck muscles to nearly the point of failure.. lol

It does.

I'm betting you meant external and internal, not external and external

ok.. this is not going to be all good news, but here goes. That engine (3.5L transverse V6 i presume?) has a problem with refilling the cooling system, it has to be done with a vacuum fill system because (at least in the version i had in my 2011 fusion) both the hot and cold hoses going from the engine to the radiator, go high before going low. you can't get water into the engine with any normal process.. the engine ends up air locked, and air does not work well in cooling systems. What this implies is that, if they did not fill the engine correctly after doing the pump, THEY are responsible for the head gasket failure. The bad news is, good luck getting them to admit it or take responsibility for it..

bold strategy.. You revive a 12 year old thread by insulting a moderator... while admittedly correcting a false statement. but to be fair you didn't address the elephant in the room, the transmission operation being described as operating in a somewhat lazy mode. being slow to downshift does tend to be a fuel saving tactic, and not good for performance. these shifting algorithms are being reworked all the time and adaptive self adjustments make it even harder to compare apples to apples.. nevermind the final drive ratios being different, and the shift programming likely being different as well And this all assumes the engines of both vehicles were in identical condition with identical conditions. Heck, a cool day can make most engines perform better.. bottom line, its hard to pinpoint one single cause, but yes, if the final drive ratios are different, the numerically higher one will tend to have a lot more acceleration with everything else being equal

I have a set of American Racing 18" black wheels with winter tires (in good condition) on them, 245/50 R18 GoodYear Winter Command with sensors (x4) I'm in Eastern TN, lets say Knoxville, and these items really aren't worth shipping so basically looking for anyone local-ish who wants them fairly cheaply EDIT: the dealership does want the RDU.. I should have removed the catch can, since I'm willing to bet they'll remove it anyway