DILLARD000

Personal preference is AmsOil for GearOil, but Valvoline should be fine; critical thing is just to routinely drain+refill, say every 33kMiles\4Years, & not let it go without maintenance forever then wonder why things break. Dont believe Ford & other makers claims of "LifeTime" fluids; they have big incentives to sell you a new vehicle. No opinion\help here on the WheelLocks.

Not sure about your 2015, but on my 2008 Edge there is a RadioNoiseReductionCapacitor, specificly to eliminate this static problem. Its wired to the GroundingWireTerminal next to the main PCM computer terminals on the left FireWall above the Engine. When electrical connections are removed+replaced, this Capacitor is often mistakenly left disconnected or never reinstalled. Tornado\StormChasers traditionally disconnect this Capacitor so to listen for nearby LightningStrikes via the AM Radio band. With Capacitor disconnected, can hear ignition sparks varing with EngineRPM or LightningStrikes with AMRadio tuned between stations. Older vehicles with single IgnitionCoils have this Capacitor connected between the 12v supply wire to the Coil & frame ground.

Link to the ForScan webpage with their recommended OBD2 interface modules https://forscan.org/download.html Personally using & happy with the full blown version of ForScan on a WindowsPC with this OBD2Port~USBCabled Module OBDLink# EX and lite version of ForScan + OBDLink App on AndroidPhon with OBD2Port~BlueTooth Module OBDLink# MX+ There are less expensive options using generic ToggledUSB & BlueToothELM Modules. Ditto on the YT Vids+Recommendations by ScottyKilmer & ChrisFix; take those with a "grain of salt" as they seem suspiciously overhyped to support their sponsored income.

If old GearOil is heavy black goo, best to change it at least 2~3 times with 50miles+ in between to flush that gunk out. Using these traditional IncandescentHalogen headlamps here in a 2008 Edge with acceptable results: * For Both LoBeams+Fogs using Type H11.White.55w \ Philips#12362LL or Equal * For HiBeams using Type HB3.9005.Blue.100w\ ICBE or Equal WIth very few exceptions personal preference is to stick with Incandescent instead LED Bulbs for critical items like HeadLamps, considering amount of bad\overcomplicated\unreliable\expensive LED product that's being made\overhyped\sold.

ATF Level? Check with Engin+Trans warmed up, idling in PARK.

What is ATF level+color+smell on the Trans DipStick? When is last time ATF was drained+renewed with fresh MerconV? Preference here is every 33kMiles\4Years; drain is easy access under front of Trans. Yep, what does "reputable" mean? Need an OBD2 Scanner that handles both StandardSAE+ProprietaryFord Data. Click here for more on OBD2 Scanners.

CarbCleaner sprayed down the DipTube & OilFill. Idle for 5-10m then drain+renew Oil+Filter. I do this before every other Oil change.

^^^+ Welcome to the Herd! Any pics of your "new" Edge? Yep, PTU is a NotoriousFailureItem; if its already puking black goo from TopVent, then best plan a replacement ASAP. Recommend installing a PTU Drain; optional Fumoto DrainValve, makes for quick+clean drain+disposal. I've also installed Hose extensions on PTU TopVent & SideFill up to a Vent+FillCup under Hood, betweem Battery+FuseBox. Then drain+renew that ~20oz of PTU 75w140 GearOil (AmsOil or RedLine preferred) at least every 33kMiles\4Years; personally do it every 6mths with routine Engin Oil+Filter changes. InternalChainDriven WaterPump is also a NotoriousFailureItem on these sideways mounted V6~3.5L~DOHC Engines. No real preventative measures other than draining+renewing Coolant every 33kMiles\4Years. Check Oil DipStick regularly; if Oil is "ChocolateMilkShake" color, WaterPump Bearing\InnerSeals failed & you've got Coolant in Oil & engine damage. If you spot Coolant dripping from FrontRight of Engin; WaterPump OuterSeal has likely failed via the WeepHole behind the Alternator. Fix requires removing TimingCover & all TimingComponents to get to that WaterPump; difficult+expensive with Engine in\out of vehicle. For Trans, preference here is AmsOil\RedLine, FullSyn MerconV Compatible; Valvoline regular MerconV is widely used & likely cheapest option. Important thing is to just to routinely drain+refresh that ATF every 33kMiles\4years. RadiatorFan ControlModule on Left side of FanShroud is also a NotoriousFailureItem; commonly Fans become erractic or stops working then Engin overheats; can also shortout the PCM via ControlModule signal wire & cause Engin stalling. IgnitionPlugs & OxSensors need to be renewed every 100kMiles\12years. Requires removing ThrottleBody+IntakeManifold, so best renew those Seals & PCVValve at that time.

Believe on your Towing\2ChannelOutput PWM FanController, the Input side is a 3PinSocket; those 3Wires are 12vPower + Ground + PWMControlFromComputer = 8.0~0.8v = 0~100%FanSpeed. Sound like that 2Channel PWM Controller has cratered, a NotoriousFailureItem. Recommend replacing with OEM part FordMotorCraft# 7t4z-8b658-b & avoiding cheaper offbrand replacements (i painfully learned that lesson on this item). You can also buy & replace the entire DualFan+Shroud+Contoller as an assembly, of course for more dollars.

Believe the 2011~2014 3.5L engines were built with 4 VVTSolenoids (2 on each head); the earlier 2007~2010 3.5L engines were built with 2 VVTSolenoids (1 on each head). Link to Pic showing 2011~2014 3.5L with 4 VVTSolenoids (2 on each head). SeaFoam might help clean out the engine sludge?

I'm suspicious a TimingJob was done on this engine, done incorrectly. And Internal ChainDriven WaterPump may have failed & been replaced, original cause\need for the TimingJob.. Considering sludge under OilCap, as said, sludge likely throughout engine & VVTSolenoids; is the Sludge "MilkShake" colored? If so then definitely had a WaterPump failure that dumped Coolant into OilPan. Believe the 2011~2014 3.5L Engine was built with 4 VVTSolenoids (2 on each head); the earlier 2007~2010 3.5L Engines only had 2 VVTSolenoids (1 on each head). Link to Pic showing 2011~2014 3.5L with 4 VVTSolenoids (2 on each head).

Removing the Guides+Tensioners will be required since you're removing+renewing TimingChains, you can "get way without replacing" Tensioners, but common sense tells me you should renew them. Each NEW Tensioner has a "GrenadePin"; kept in place until after Chain+Guides+Tensioners are installed, then GrenadePins are removed allowing Tensioners to put full tension on Chain+Guides; OLD\Factory Tensioners obviously do NOT have GrenadePins in place as they were removed at the factory, so just finding\making NEW Pins is a problem if trying to reuse OLD Tensioners. Personally bought a Cloyes kit at a good price & renewed all TimingComponents (Chains,Guides, Tensioners, Sprockets) except for 2 larger CamSprockets which cost several hundred $s alone (were in good condition, so left originals in place); also renewed VVTSolenoids & swapped old OilPump to HiVolume Melling OilPump along with failed PlasticImpeller WaterPump to MetalImpeller version. 1st Pic below shows factory original TimingParts+WaterPump+OilPump. 2ndPic below shows those parts removed, leaving only the 2 larger CamSprockets.

For SteeringPump on RightUpperRear of V6~3.5L~DOHC EngineBlock, there are * 3ea MountingBolts 10mmHexHead, Torq@020nm=015pf=0180pi * 1ea HiPressureHoseConnection 17mmHexHead, Torq@025nm=018pf=0216pi With CuWasher * 1ea LoPressureHoseConnection FactorySpringClamp or AfterMarketWormClamp * 1ea PressureSwitchElectricalConnection Not easy to get at with Engine in vehicle; easier with IntakeManifold removed or easiest with access hole cut thru RightFront WheelWell behind upper Skirt (done several years before to access rear OxSensors). Pics below of * SteeringPump, Left & Right Views * EngineBlock Rear View; SteeringPump MountingBolts are on UpperRight of 2nd Pic Below, TopBolt is just off screen

Not sure where you're located "swm" ? Ordering one with quick delivery from Amazon\Ebay may be more practical. This CamShaft Holding Tool off Amazon worked for me; a little over $20. https://www.amazon.com/ATPEAM-Camshaft-Alignment-Replacement-Compatible/dp/B093H4B895

I've read that the 3.7L can be a drop in replacement for the 3.5L engin, without Harness changes or PCM programming\tuning changes. There are videos on YT by MacTFordEdge on doing this. Did your WaterPump fail & dump coolant into the OilPan, making an Oil+Coolant "MilkShake"? If it only failed by dumping Coolant out the external WeepHole, then the engine may be okay?

Welcome to the Herd; lots of friendly knowledgable folk in these forums! Watch out for that TimingChainDriven WaterPump in the V6~3.5L\3.7L~DOHC Engin; its a NotoriousFailureItem; recommend changing the Coolant+ThermoStat every 33kMiles\4Years using gold Peak#10X Also, if your 2010 Edge is AllWheelDrive\AWD, watch out for that PowerTransferUnit\PTU; its a NotoriousFailureItem recommend changing the GearOil every 33kMiles\4Years using AmsOil#75w140.FullSyn

Electronics\computers in these vehicles can do strange\random things if system voltages are low. Age of Battery; typical BatteryLife is 5~6yrs ? Terminals+Cables at Battery+MegaFuse+Alternator+Starter; should be CleanShinyMetal+Tight ? SerpBelt & Pulleys; should be AlignedWithNoWobble+BeltNotWorn+Tight ? Voltage at Battery; should be 12.2V+ Engine Off+Cold, 14V+ Engine IdlingCold, 13.5V+ Engine IdlingWarm ? Alternator Load\ChargeTest: * Engine IdlingWarm * AC On+Blower@High * HeadLights OnBright * DoorOpen With InteriorLightsOn * Voltage at Battery should be 13v+; if not then Alternator is not properly Generating\Regulating? Make sure Trans ATF level is good on DipStick, check with Trans WarmedUp & Engin IdlingInPark. Rcommend every 33kMiles\4Yrs, draining Trans ATF & refill of fresh MerconV; personal preference for ATF is MerconV compatible RedLine# HighTemp or AmsOil# SSMV; drain plug is easy to get at on bottom front of the 6f50 Transmissions; the "LifeTime Per Ford" Filter is internal to Trans & thus not easily changed.

Welcome to the Herd; lots of friendly knowledgable folk in these forums !!! Vehicle BasicSpecs in your Profile+Signature+Threads: Year Make Model \ Engin \ Trans \ FWD or AWD \ Mods & Upgrades ... makes questions+answers easier+quicker.

Lifting out & reinstall of Engine+Trans+PTU as a unit was not as difficult as I originally thought it might be. Before lifting out, removed these items: * Hood * WiringHarness * AirBox+Throttle+IntakeManifold * Belts * Hoses * Alternator * ExhaustYPipe+CatCons * Front Left+Rght+Intermediate Axles * DriveShaft * FrontGrille+Radiator Managed to manuever AC Condensor+Compressor out of the way without disassembling any freon lines. Honestly most difficult part of lift was getting out the 2 horizontal Bolts holding left Engine\TransMount to the Frame; bad design with little space between Trans & Frame; used BoxEndWrench+Cheater, 1/6Turn 1 Flat at a time, very slow. Before re-installing Engine+Trans+PTU, converted those 2 HorizontalMountingBolts to Studs that I installed first then sat assembly onto the Studs & secured them with Grade8 Nuts; should have been this way from factory. I've had front Grille+Radiator out before; a bit of a bear that first time around figuring how to seperate Radiator+Condensor. I used all Cloyes TimingComponents, replaced everything except the 2 larger VVT Sprockets; did use a pair of special CamHoldingJigs; Cloyes video says they're not needed, but made me more confortable having them in place. I upgraded from OEM PlasticImpeller Pump to a MetalImpeller Pump; also upgraded OEM OilPump to a Melling HiVolume Pump. Replaced OEM Rubber RadiatorHoses with StainlessFlex. Did this in a 2Bay Garage area (click for more pics) using: * two 3Ton FloorJacks * two 3TonJackStands * a 2Ton EngineHoist+SpreaderBar * legs of EngineHoist plus a homemade wood jig served as an EngineStand while doing Timing+Pump work. After seeing Vid linked below (amongst many other vids & forum threads on this WaterPump) decided to do engine lift, considering I don't have a full vehicle lift & potential trouble\damage removing+installing TimingCover while in vehicle.

Boy that's "DeJaVu", near identical occurance here last summer on my wifes 2008 Edge V6~3.5L~DOHC @160kMiles. Yep was the dangedTimingChainDriven InternalWaterPump, had blown its inner gasket (thankfully did not blow outer gasket to the OilPan) so all Coolant was blown out WeepHole on the front side of the Block behind Alternator above AirCompressor &\or out the ReservoirCap. As in your case, EngineOil was not contaminated, no MilkShake so no Engine\Bearing damage. Pulled entire Engine+Trans+PTU from the top (most YouTube vids show Engine removal from bottom). Renewed TimingChains+Tensioners+Guides+3of5Cogs+VVTSolenoids, upgraded MetalImpellerWaterPump+HiVolumeOilPump. Also renewed PTU & FrontStruts, cleaned up & repainted EngineBay+Underside, rewrapped WiringHarness. Year earlier had replaced Belts & Hoses & ThermoStat & Plugs & OxSensors & PCVValve & ThrottleMotor+Sensor, so those got checked+cleaned+reinstalled. New Engine Filter+Oil 0w30.FullSyn, new Coolant Peak#10X, new PTU GearOil AmsOil#75w140.FullSyn., new MerconV RedLine#HighTemp in both Trans+Steering. Managed to remove+reinstall Engine without disassembly of AirCompressor+Condensor+FreonLines. Also deleted TransCoolerBypassValve (mounted on outside LeftFrontCorner of Trans); now Transmission runs ~170f instead of 190f+. After several tests, all this was caused by main computer PCM not properly controlling RadiatorFans PWM module & letting Engine overheat; now have custom RadiatorFan TempSwitches that operate in parallel with factory PWM module, runs fans HalfSpeed>194f, FullSpeed>200f. Root cause was PCM Computer only let PWM module operate RadiatorFans 25%~35%Speed & only when AirCon is switched on; believe Ford intentionally wrote PCM firmware to stop properly cooling engine once OdoMeter hits 150kMiles+, designed obsolescence !!! If you need a list+vendors of parts I used in this rebuild, let me know.

Oil DipStick level? What weight of Oil? Miles+Time since last Oil+Filter change?

Which engine: earlier OriginalBlock V6~3.5L~DOHC or later BoredBlock V6~3.7L~DOHC? Only TSB I'm seen for the notorious PTU is the one linked to above by dabangsta, regarding the RightIntermediate AxleSeal. Which fluid is leaking from your PTU: 2 different fluids\ leaks possible, Black\Blue 75w140 GearOil or Pink\Red MerconV TransFluid? Two common PTU leaks are: * Black\Blue GearOil boiling out of TopVent; goo mess all around PTU, drips down onto hot exhaust wye, makes a sort of sour propane stench. * Pink\Red TransFluid leaking out of RightIntermediate AxleSeal, again drips down onto hot exhaust wye, makes a relatively sweeter smell + smoke. If you have the PTU RightAxle TransFluid leak, the fix is relatively easy with SealKit FordMotorCraft# db5z-7275-e & a SealRemove+InstallTool like HarborFreight\Pittsburgh# 62601. Requires removing the RightFrontWheel + RightCVAxle + RightIntermediateAxle(2 bolts) + dropping the ExhaustWye (4 bolts), then removing the old AxleSeal & installing a new AxleSeal; use 32mmSocket+Extension to seat Seal+OuterCover, expensive\awkward special tool not needed; be sure to use SealProtector when inserting RightIntermediateAxle or new seal will leak just like the old one. Refill the Trans with fresh MerconV; typically 4~5qts will drain when RightIntermediateAxle is removed. If you have the PTU TopVent GearOil leak, your PTU likely already has bearing damage due to lack of lube+overheating, will fail sooner than later & need replacing. For either an existing or new PTU, I recommend flushing+renewing GearOil at least every 33kMiles\4Years, using a premium HiTempGearOil like AmsOil#75w140.FullSyn. Also recommend Drilling+Tapping the PTU for a BottomDrain & adding a FumotoDrainValve, removing the TopVentCap+1WayPlug & adding a VentHose upto under the Hood, removing the SideFillPlug & replacing with a 90DegreeElbow & adding a FillHose upto under the Hood, installing a combo VentFIlter+FillCan under the Hood with the above 2 Hoses attached; this allows much easier PTU GearOil changes. Related TechServiceBulletin + ServiceProcedure + Vids + Pics: 2008.Ford_PTU~.Seal______2009.0522.PDF 2008.Ford_PTU~.Seal______2009.1215.PDF

Yep, your PTU GearOil went too long without being renewed; likely at least some bearing damage, But may have caught soon enough it to keep it alive+running; recommend the following: * Drill+Tap drain in PTU bottom, install Fumoto DrainValve. * Remove Cap+Rubber1WayValve from TopVent leaving a HoseBarb, install VentHose up to under Hood between Battery & FuseBox. * Remove RightSidePlug, install 90degElbow+FillHose up to under Hood between Battery & FuseBox. * Install Combo FillCan+VentFilter under Hood between Battery & FuseBox, connecting above 2 Hoses. * Drain+Renew PTU Oil via above items, HiTemp AmsOil or RedLine 75w140.FullSyn, every 6mths along with routine Engin Oil+Filter change. May want to prepare yourself+budget for replacing PTU if it decides to die. Also recommend above items when installing a new PTU.

OBD2 TroubleCode definitions: p0010 = Bank1 Rear Cylinder1+2+3 CamShaftPositionSensorA CircuitFail p0020 = Bank2 Front Cylinder4+5+6 CamShaftPositionSensorB CircuitFail p0102 = MassAirFlow\MAFSensor Voltage Lo p0135 = OxSensor11 RearUpStream HeaterFail p0141 = OxSensor12 RearDnStream HeaterFail p0155 = OxSensor21 FrntUpStream HeaterFail p0161 = OxSensor22 FrntDnStream HeaterFail p0340 = CamShaftPositionSensor CircuitFail p0344 = CamShaftPositionSensorA Intermittent p0443 = EvapValve CircuitFail p1000 = EPA Tests In Progress, Not Yet Complete, Ignore This Suspect you've got a blown fuse &\or wiring short that is common to all the above sensors. Any recent work done on the engine or other "event" which may have caused this issue? Did all these TroubleCodes come up at the same time, or have these issues been accumulating over a longer time span? Have you been driving with a CheckEngineLite\CEL for very long?