DILLARD000

Have here a 2008 V6~3.5L~DOHC with AWD PTU. Using 50ft roll of FibreGlassWrap +12ea MetalZipTies (kit available on Amazon\Ebay\...), wrapped exhaust YPipe from both CatCon flanges to the common FlexJoint, as an attempt to provide additional HeatShielding from the YPipe for the PTU & EngineOilPan & Transmission. It's subjective how much good it does, though after several months I'm happy with the result & whatever shielding it does provide. If anyone chooses to use this FibreGlassWrap, do dress in LongSleeves+Gloves+FaceMask while handling+installing this very itchy stuff. For better access during install, It's relatively easy to remove the 4 nuts at the CatCon flanges, assuming rust isn't too bad. then lower the YPipe with the FlexJoint still connected; allows for easier wrapping than if left in place. I opted to "seal" the FibreGlass using a rattle can of ClearCoat SprayPaint, before re-bolting the YPipe back onto the CatCons; be sure to use antosieze on those bolt studs.

Yep. 2010 Edge has the V6~3.5L~DOHC Engine with the InternalChainDrivenWaterPump, a NotoriousFailureItem. If it's the AllWheelDrive\AWD verion, it also has a RearAxle Differential+ElectricClutch+DriveShaft & the FrontAxle PowerTransferUnit\PTU, also a NotoriousFailureItem.

Welcome to the Herd! Lots of friendly knowledgable folk in these forums. Watch out for that infamous InternalChainDrivenWaterPump in your 2010 V6~4.0l~SOHC engine: look for: * coolant leaking from frontside weephole behind Alternator * coolant leaking from topside weephole in EngineV * milkshake colored Oil on DipStick If any of above, stop driving vehicle immediately before more engine damage occurs & change out that WaterPump. Also, if your 2010 Edge is AWD with the infamous PowerTransferUnit\PTU, be sure to get that GearOil renewed now & every 33kMiles\4Years; use premium 75w140.FullSyn, AmsOil recommended.

Thing about OxSensors is they have a chemical sensing element that wears out with usage+time; as they wear out, gradually their signal becomes increasingly erroneously biased towards high oxygen content, causing the Computer\PCM to compensate & bias the Fuel|Air mix towards rich, thus MPGs tend to slowly decrease as OxSensors age & CatConvertors gradually run hotter to burn off that excess fuel. Eventually their signal will bias enough to be out of range of PCM program limits & sets a TroubleCode; well before that happens you're definitely paying for lower MPGs & wearing\burning out the CatCons prematurely. Ford doesn't have a problem with you paying more for fuel or paying them to replace CatCons.

IgnitionPlugs, OxSensors, PCVVlave, Belts+BeltTensioner, CoolantHoses+Clamps+Radiator at 100kMiles\12yr intervals. PTU 75w140 GearOil, DIff 75w90 GearOil, Trans MerconV, Coolant+TStat+PressureCap, BrakePads at 33kMiles\4yr intervals. EnginOil+Filter, HandPump+Refill SteeringReservoir MerconV, HandPump+Refresh BrakeReservoir DOT4 at 5kMiles\6mth intervals. Don't believe Ford\Dealership claims of "LifeTime Fluids"!

Believe the Nut is welded inside that unibody frame member; & near impossible to get at to reweld. That's a tough one. May be able to cut the bolt & install a new bolt with a butterfly nut; not ideal but better than nothing. This bolt doesn't support any vertical weight, so make sure other 2 bolts are tight+torqued to spec; then your ok to drive it; just don't be too heavy on accelerating & twisting that mount.

Yep, definitely lucky to have the sheltered garage space; a lot of guys tough it out under a "shade tree" in all sorts of bad weather! Congrats on your "new to you" 2015 Edge, be sure to routinely change Coolant+TStat & PTU GearOil if fitted, despite Fords claims of LifeTime fluids Sorry can't help with your key problem; likely need a LockSmith\Dealer\PCMProgrammer; others in the forum sure to have a solution. Suspect a lot of dealers supply only 1 key with each vehicle sold, knowing customers will then have to spend several hundred bucks for a 2nd.

Not sure there's such a thing as "early detection" for a failed WaterPump, unless you're just lucky enough to have a "slow" leak thru the FlangeSeal & you're vigilant enough to notice it. Have here a 2008 EdgeAWD V6~3.5L~DOHC; just finished rebuilding\renewing these items: ~ the notorious InternalChainDrivenWaterPump, upgraded from PlasticImpeller to MetalImpeller (see pic below) ~ all Timing components excepting the VVT Sprockets (see pic below) ~ upgraded InternalChainDrivenOilPump to a Melling HiVolume unit while I was in there (see pic below) ~ new PowerTransferUnit\PTU, bottom drilled+tapped with FumotoDrainValve, top Vent & side Fill removed & both hosed up to FillCan under Hood ~ upgraded Radiator from NonTow 1Row to TowRated 2Row ~ all new Gaskets+Seals+Hoses+Belts+BeltTensioner as items were re-instralled ~ Engin+Trans LeftMount modified with StudBolts~Frame for easier Access\Removal\Install ~ Engine Bay cleaned+repainted ~ ElectricalHarnesses rewrapped ~ new front Struts\Shocks All of this was initiated due to WaterPump InnerFlangeSeal failing & spewing Yellow\Gold coolant out upper+front weepholes. WaterPump can fail 3 different ways: ~ the InnerFlangeSeal fails & spews coolant externally thru Front+Top WeepHoles without damaging Engin ~ both Outer+InnerFlangeSeals fail & spews coolant into the OilPan & damages Engin ~ the ImpellerBearing+Seal fails & spews coolant into the OilPan & damages Engin so I figure i'm damned lucky it failed the way it did. I pulled the Engine+Trans from the top; this was a tedious rebuild, 3month+ mostly waiting for parts; but she's now running good, hopefully for another 150kMiles.

Had a simular random stalling issue with my wifes 2008 Edge. Never had a CEL or TroubleCode, but would randomly loose power or stall then immediately start again. After changing several parts, turned out to be the RadiatorFanControl box on the upper left inside of FanShroud, was randomly shorting out the PulseWidthMod\FanSpeed control signal wire from the Computer\PCM & killing the PCM & Engine. Installed a new FanController & issue went away. Was a devil of a gremlin to find.

Your 3.5L has a total of four 4Wire NarrowBand OxSensors: * 2 UpStream, 1 mounted in the top of each ExhaustManifold + 2 DnStream, 1 mounted in the side of each CatalyticConvertor. Al four are operationally the same with the same 4pinConnectors & pinouts; only difference is FactoryOE sensors have different cable lengths, otherwise they are interchangable. Again a Bosch 15719 with the long 24i00 0m610 Cable+Plug is good to replace any of those 4 NarrowBand Sensors. The 2 UpStream OxSensors are used by the PCM\Computer to determine Fuel+Air mix. The 2 DnStream OxSensor are used by the PCM\Computer to monitor the 2 CatCons, these don't effect the fuel+air ratio, but are required by EPA & most states. The 2 OxSensors on the front side (Bank2 OxSensor21 + OxSensor22) are easy to access+change. The 2 OxSensors on the back side (Bank1 OxSensor11 + OxSensor12) are harder to access+change,; see pic below. OxSensors have a chemical element that wears away with miles & time; they bias the Fuel\Air mix richer as they age, causing lower MPGs & the CatCons to run hotter due to excess fuel in the exhaust; thus all 4 OxSensors should be renewed every 100kMiles\12years, along with IgnitionPlugs+Wires.

May be an engine ground wire; wild ass guess without a pic. Does need to be connected or electrical gremlins may pop up.

How many miles on vehicle+PTU? May be able nurse this PTU along or buy+install a new PTU; your judgement call. Could ieasily Drill+Tap a drain in PTU (assuming it does not have one now) while you've got it out. Recommend a Fumoto DrainValve instead of a basic DrainPlug\Bolt; makes draining that messy GearOil much quicker+cleaner; use a short length of clear tubing directly into a recyle jug. Use premium SevereDuty FullSyn GearOil like AmsOil; personally I mix half+half AmsOil 75w140 + SAE250 GearOil for my 2008 PTU. Also have hydraulic hose running from PTUs TopVent & RightSideFill port, up to a VentFilter & FillCup next to battery under the Hood to ease refilling. Change this GearOil now every 5kMiles\6mths along with engine Oil+Filter.

Need to state basic vehicle specs: Year + Model + Engine +.... in your profile+signature+thread; makes asking+answering questions much easier+quicker. Personally, I've burned out all my "mind reading" senses over several decades trying to figure out what\who my wife is talking about. I know for the 2007~2010 Ford Edge\MKX, there are 4 NarrowBand OxSensors, each has a different length 4wire cable, but the Sensors & the 4pin connectors are all the same & interchangable, so a Bosch 15719 with the long 24i00 0m610 Cable+Plug is good to replace any of those 4 NarrowBand Sensors just use black ZipTies to secure\coil & route the Cable away from Hot\Moving parts. Of course Ford has different chaotic part numbers for each CarModel + specific sensor & dealerships will gladly sell them at jacked up prices. Just buy\order equivalent Bosch (FactoryOE supplier) new sensors for the best price you can find. Yep, these OxSensors do wear out & need to be renewed every 100kMiles\12years along with Iginition Plugs+Wires, to maintain engine performance & MPGs.

Vacuum from IntakeManifold for the Brakes, not a complicated part, just simple hose for air vacuum. Can use above FactoryOE FordMotorcraft part at a premium price, or a couple of feet of much less expensive stock 5/8"ID Vacuum\Heater\Fuel\Hydraulic Hose by the foot from any parts store. Personally don't have a problem telling stealerships to stuff their outrageous prices, when I get the chance.

LucasTransmissionFix basicly is a viscocity additive; silightly thickens the ATF which helps transmission shift smoother\quicker. Click here for YouTube test of LTF; have seen several of this guys product reviews, seems honest enough. It's a judgement call; if the new ATF & BatteryReset has fixed problem to your satisfaction, I'd probably not use the Lucas; easy enough to add later. No, don't reset the Battery every time; if the shift points are where you like them, leave it alone.

Your plan sounds reasonable; I would drain+refill at least 4 times to get rid of that old brown ATF. Draining+filling Tranny on these is easy+quick; definitely should be done every 4yrs\33kMiles. Recommend using a premium FullSynthetic MerconV compatible ATF like AmsOil# SSMVS.ATF1g. Consider using 1qt of Lucas Transmission Fix. Also consider disconnecting battery for 15min, then reconnecting & driving conservatively to let PCM relearn tranny shift points.

No, the CamHoldingJig kit comes with 2 jigs, one for each of the DualOverHeadCams, left & right, so only one jig kit needed. Good luck & keep us updated on your progress & any questions as you go.

Various discussions & bits of info out there on this, but seems to be no definitive answer. Assuming Ford V6~3.5L~DOHC is an interference engine, I used these parts for the Timing+Pump job: ~ Coolant\Water Pump, USMW# us6023 ~ Oil Pump, Melling# 10390hv ~ VariableValveTimingSolenoids\VVTS 2ea, Dorman# 917-201 ~ Timing Kit, Cloyes# 9-4226s ~ Crank TTY Bolt, Ford# f5rz-6a340-b ~ Cam TTY Bolt 2ea, Cloyes# vcb114 ~ Cam Holding Jigs, ATP# ap-04-2619 Cloyes instructional videos note Holding Jigs, pic below, are NOT required, but I felt need for them to insure CamShafts did NOT move during this work over several days. I replaced all Timing components excepting the 2 larger CamGears+Bolts; those were left in place. List above is NOT all inclusive of the various other items+supplies replaced or used.

Depending on season\climate (freezing weather needs a heated garage to park vehicle), at over 140kMiles, so not to "shock" the internal Pump seals, I would slowly replace old BlueCoolant by Draining+Flushing+Refilling with DistilledWater over several weeks, then again slowly Drain+Flush+Refill the DistilledWater with new 50+50% Gold\Yellow Coolant, mixing a little KSeal with the new Coolant as it's added. Transverse V6~3.5L\3.7L~DOHC internal Coolant\WaterPump has basicly 4 modes of failure: ~ Pump FlangeCoolantSeal fails, Coolant leaks out SeepHole down front of Block behind Alternator. ~ Pump FlangeOilSeal fails, Oil leaks out SeepHole down front of Block behind Alternator. ~ Pump PulleySeal+Bearing fails, Coolant leaks into OilPan creating a "MilkShake"; engine is destroyed if run in this condition for any significant time\distance. ~ Pump OEPlasticImpeller slowly disintegrates, flow & CoolingCapacity slowly decline, leading to overheating. In any of these cases; Pump must be replaced; new Timing components & 120% Melling OilPump upgrade recommended while there. This work requires removing TimingCover+Components; can be done with engine in vehicle, easier if engine is removed. If removing engine & vehicle is AWD, consider replacing PowerTransferUnit\PTU also; likely has never had Oil changed, unless you did that. Engine with TimingCover removed shown below, before removing original factory TimingParts+WaterPump+OilPump; CoolantPump is behind center ChainPulley; OilPump is behind lower CrankShaft ChainPulley. OE WaterPump+PlasticImpeller, compared to AfterMarket WaterPump+MetalImpeller, also shown below. Engine with TimingCover+TimingParts+WaterPump+OilPump removed, bottom pic below.

Coolant capacity for this 2008 V6~3.5L~DOHC is ~12q84=12L14; maybe half comes out in a simple Radiator drain; believe your 2010 is similar. Drain the Radiator, refill the system with DistilledWater, drive for 15~30min to flush the system, keep draining+refilling with distilled water & flushing untill all the unknown "blue" stuff is gone. Coolant should be Flushed+Renewed+Burped along with replacing the ThermoStat at 3Year\33kMile intervals. Inspect other Coolant system components: Hoses\HeatValve\Fans+Controller\Belts... replace when required. The 2008 OwnersGuide Specs wss-m97b51-a1 for Coolant=AntiFreeze is Gold or Yellow color FordMotorCraft vc-7dil; the Gold\Yellow formulas have additional CorrosionInhibitors+Lubricants that are beneficial & preferred. Products below satisfy these Specs; carefully compare SafetyDataSheet Ingredients for any other Coolant. These are HybridOrganicAcidTech\HOAT formulations, do not contain any 2EthylHexAcid\2EHA & may be mixed; other Coolants containing 2EHA may damage seals in Ford V6~3.5L~DOHC engines & should NOT be used\mixed. Only use these or equal Gold\Yellow Coolants; do NOT use\mix Blue\DarkGreen\LiteGreen\Orange\Pink\Red... AntiFreeze~Coolant=-34~+265f=-37~+129cRated@15psi=103kpa\50%Forumla50%DistilledWaterReadyToUsePreMixture OwnersManualSpec wss-m97b51–a1=g05\GldOrYelColor FordMotorCraftByValvoline vc-7dil Peak pkpb53\10x ZerexByValvoline zxg05ru1 Your judgement call, but only CoolantAdditive I'd personally use is KSeal, 4oz after each drain+flush+refill as a leak preventative. KSeal# st5516 As part of my routine 6mth maintenance, I handpump about 1/2 gallon of old coolant from the reservoir & refill that with fresh 50+50%, instead of doing a system drain+refill every 3yrs\33kMiles.

AmsOil 75w140 About as good as Differential\PTU\RDU gear lube gets.

Yep, SparkPlugs & OxSensors should be renewed every 10yrs\100kMiles or your MPGs+Performance+CatCons will suffer

Yep, better to overfill PTU, than underfill; that gearoil gets cooked so the more you can fit into that gearbox the better. After drilling\tapping & installing a Fumoto DrainValve in the PTU bottom & a fill hose on the PTU top vent barb with a fill can under the hood, now change the 75w140 AmsOil every 6mths along with routine engine oil changes. Hopefully makes it last as long as the rest of the car.

If OxSensors are 10yrs\100kMiles+, they read lean & thus bias the Air+Fuel mix too rich, causing MPGs to drop & CatCons to run hot. So be sure to get those renewed if needed; read live OxSensor data via OBD2 to confirm their signals are in the acceptable\normal range.

Could be, not sure about 2009, my 2008 had original\factory OxSensors made by Bosch, before they were renewed a while back, again with Bosch.