Odrapnew

Sleeve and clamp isn't a bad idea. I'll see if I can get a better picture of the hole tomorrow, but here's one I took the other day. I can't tell if that's carbon buildup around the hole or maybe it's rusting away. The front drain hole on the resonator doesn't have any carbon staining.

Thanks for the input. Yeah, it's odd that it's only that 1 weep hole flowing that much air. Even if it was more open than others, I would expect to see some air out the other ones (assuming it was normal). I've never seen exhaust come out of weep holes before. Water (condensation) yes, but not actual flowing exhaust. Or maybe all the others are blocked off, so any small leaks that would normally be distributed across all of them are forced through one. There are at least 4 weep holes, 2 in resonator and 2 in muffler. Anyway, I think there is a block or partial block in the exhaust somewhere, but it sucks that the exhaust from the flex pipe all the way to the tail pipes is 1 piece (includes the resonator). I've thought about cutting the exhaust between the resonator and the muffler to see if it goes away. If cutting the muffler off does not help the issue, than it's inside the resonator. If it does fix it, then it's in the muffler. Can always reconnect with some sections of exhaust pipe and some welding.

This is on my 18 Sport w/ ~40k miles. This is the rear weep hole on the resonator. Was a cool morning, but this seems excessive. I've never seen that much come from a weep hole. Thoughts? https://youtu.be/BZxesSDKgM8?si=BVg_78chn5vpCQC0

If you got a Ford ESP, dabangsta is correct that the ESP starts from original in-service date. The CPO 7yr/100k is powertrain only. Majority of the other CPO warranty items are 1yr/12k miles. So, if you purchased a Ford ESP for 7yr/120k, depending on which plan you got, covers other items that would have expired after the 1yr/12k, but again, the clock starts ticking from original in-service date. Also, you can look up your VIN on Ford site to see what warranty(ies) (extended service plans) you have active. Mine shows the CPO Powertrain and the Ford Premium ESP that I purchased. Even though I don't live in the area, it's good to see you actually calling out the dealerships by name. People post big issues with dealers/shops, but don't want to call them out directly.

Sounds like one of your inlet ducts blew off. This happened to a few people with Explorer Ecoboosts. Hose clamps were not tight enough to hold the pressure and blow off. Simple fix once you find the one that's off. Loosen clamp, push hose back on, tighten clamp....and then check all others to make sure they are seated and tight.

Thanks for the info. According to the terms and conditions document, the heated wheel would be covered since it states Since the heated wheel is not listed under the 'not covered' section, it seems like it would fall under the agreement. I just don't want to bring it in and have them diagnose it for a fee and say it's not covered. I'll see about giving them a call before scheduling anything with the dealer.

My heated steering wheel in y 18 Sport stopped working just at the end of winter. I just did a Forscan scan and came up with a Short to Battery or Open code. I've heard that if the heater fails, the wheel needs to be replaced. Mine has adaptive steering, so it's something like $2,000 part, plus labor. Question, would this be covered under a PremiumCARE Ford ESP? I found a brochure, but it's not listed, but the brochure also says partial list.

How do I delete?

Those are at the top of my list whenever my OE tires die. Unfortunately (or fortunately) OE tires will likely dry up before tread wears down. I only put about 4k miles on them each year since I have 2 other summer vehicles and I run winter set Dec-March.

I actually had a couple hose clamps in hand with the plan to do exactly that, but unfortunately, the heat shield that is buzzing doesn't wrap around the exhaust. The 'foil' type shield actually follows the contour of the floorpan and is right up against the floor. This isn't an Edge, but the arrows are pointing at the example shield that I'm talking about. They are thin foil type material.

Question on this, by hatch body panels, you're talking the plastic on the inside, correct? Any chance you have pictures? I have noticeable rattles in the back and I believe it's the plastic panel(s) on the hatch. I plan to take the panels off and see if I can fix the rattles.

OK, new update. I originally thought the buzz was from the plastic panels around the foot well/wheel well. I decided to take a closer look/listen as I had the car up on jack to swap winter treads for summer. Turns out, the most likely culprit is the heat shield that goes over the resonator (I think). It's located under the car, right about where the front center console is located. When I was tapping around, I hit that shield and it buzzed. Unfortunately I think the only real way to remove it to add some damping material behind it is to remove the back half of the exhaust system. Maybe sometime this summer I'll look into that, but for now, I pushed on it to add some small bends to try to get it from buzzing. Seems to have helped a little bit. I might try to get some header wrap material and wedge it between the shield and the belly of the chassis to dampen the buzzing.

I checked fuse to see if it was blown, it's still good. I tried opening the latch manually and am struggling. I got it to 'pop' but the liftgate will not open. The liftgate ajar light is on. I've tried pushing, pulling swearing, nothing is working. Any tips? Could the power lifgate motors be stuck? EDIT: it seems to me that the latch is only partially disengaged. When I lift the liftgate, it seems to catch at the latch. I can move it in/out a little bit, but just cannot get it to release all the way. I also read somewhere that a low battery might cause the liftgate to not open. Something about non-essential modules won't operate to save power. Resting voltage on the battery was around 11.8v, which is essentially dead for lead acid. I have my charger on it now and it was pulling about 5-6amps. It has been cold here for the last week and battery is original (5yrs old), so maybe it's due. All that still doesn't explain why I cannot manually open the liftgate. EDIT #2: I decided to pull the battery, bring inside to warm up and charge, then I'll bring it to Auto store to get tested. After I disconnected the battery, liftgate opened with no issue. I did lightly close it (which was partially latched) and manually open it again without issue. So, something electrical was keeping the latch from fully releasing....or possibly the power liftgate struts/motors? Regardless, I was able to open.

Any chance there's a TSB number? My 18 Edge decided to stop opening liftgate(power). I opened liftgate with keyfob, loaded it and the closed again with the fob. Got home and tried to open with button on liftgate. Lights blink, but nothing happens. Tried the fob, button on dash, hands free, but nothing worked. Of course, my certified B-to-B expired 2 weeks ago.

When I bought new wheels/tires for a winter set, I had to (chose to) buy TPMS sensors. I ordered my sensors from Tire Rack and they didn't need to be programed. I installed the sensors in the wheels and brought the wheels/tires to shop for them to mount and balance. When I installed the wheels on my Edge, I tried the relearn by letting air out while vehicle was in 'program mode' but I could never get the horn to beep, so, I was planning to buy the relearn tool. Before I ordered the tool, during my first drive, about 3 miles down the road all my readings on the left dash display updated with current tire pressures. So, long story short, you might not need the relearn tool.

Update: Got my Edge back today after being at the dealer for a week and 2 days. Dropped off on Monday, Jan 16th at 7:30am, picked up yesterday (25th) evening. Recall took a few hours, but they didn't get to diagnosing the oil leak until the next day. Then they had to order the part, which was supposed to be in on Thursday, but was 'delayed due to weather'...we did have some snow, but not a lot. Next, the tech assigned to it was sick and then supposedly got into a snowmobile accident over the weekend and service advisor was out on Monday. So, finally, on Tuesday (24th), they were able to tear it down, install pan and let it sit overnight before refilling with oil. I was able to borrow my dad's truck for most of that, but eventually the dealer gave me a loaner (for a whole day). Out of pocket = $0 so at least that's good. The worst part is the minimal communication. A courtesy call or 2 would have gone a long way, but I was hounding them for updates.

There's actually quite a bit that goes into how much boost you see inside the engine (manifold). You can probably find an informative video on Youtube....much quicker and more detail than I have time to provide (sorry). It's possible that there's a point in the exhaust that does not get hot under light loads and condensation/water collects. When you get it under heavier load, that point in the exhaust heats up and boils off the condensation. Or another possibility is that the condensation condenses inside the exhaust before it exits the tail pipe under light throttle so instead of getting steam, it flows out as water. When you accelerate hard, the steam can make it out the tail pipe. Again, just throwing out ideas. It's been a long time since my thermodynamics class.

I didn't review this full thread, but was there any mention of water in the intercooler? I believe F150's had an issue with condensation buildup in the intercooler and when one would run it hard (WOT), it could suck in a bunch of water and caused issues. Maybe this is similar with condensation/water in the intercooler, but not enough to cause engine issues? Just a thought. On the other side (exhaust), condensation/water buildup in the exhaust system sounds reasonable as well. A long drive at highway speeds might not be enough to heat up the full exhaust system, so water builds up and doesn't 'boil off' until you really get on the throttle. Just another thought.

I have an appointment for next Monday for oil leak along with the shifter recall. I noticed oil on the oil pan when I changed the oil last Spring. I should have stopped with the oil change and had it fixed, but decided to finish the oil change. Since the oil was fresh, I wanted to wait as long as possible to get fixed. Mine is a 2018 CPO. The comprehensive CPO warranty is up on Jan 18th, but I think this would fall under the drivetrain warranty anyway. On a side note, it was good I changed the oil when I did (~5k miles). When I pulled the oil filter out, the media had some tears along with the inner liner being cracked. Dealer was the last one to change the oil.

Just to close this one out, yes, the 18" wheel from 2015 fits a 2018 sport. I bought wheels and checked one of them on the front, 'miles' of clearance. As Haz mentioned, pretty sure the brakes on all gen 2 AWD models are the same. I also picked up some Blizzaks, now just need to pick up my TPMS sensors and get everything installed.

Thanks for that info. My Sport has the optional 21's. The one thing I'm trying to confirm is if there are an interference issues with the brakes/calipers. I don't think there are, but I'd hate to buy them and find out they don't fit. I also found a set of used Blizzaks for a good price. I could be all in on a winter set for ~$800. That would also stretch my current OE tires out a good 5 years since I have 2 other summer vehicles that get the miles for ~6 months out of the year.

I'm pretty sure this will be OK, but will stock 2015 18" wheels fit on 2018 Sport? I know diameter and bolt pattern are fine, but what about caliper clearance? Hub diameter the same? I found a set of OE wheels for decent price that I'd like to get some winter tires mounted, but obviously want to make sure clearances are good before buying.

Not necessarily a hate, but I really dislike the fact that the left gauge cluster panel doesn't revert back to previous screen after using paddle shifters. It switches over to the round tach, but after it times out, stays on that screen. My 14 Explorer Sport would revert back to whatever screen it was on previously (usually fuel mileage).

Figured I'd update this. I did a quick check under the vehicle around where the driver's footwell is and tapped on the plastic panels under there. I'm pretty sure it's one of the panels vibrating against the bottom of the sheet metal because when I tapped around, I could hear a slight buzz in a few areas. One spot that was most noticeable was in the wheel well at the bottom where it looks like a couple panels are attached together with some plastic pins (or something like that). I plan to get behind it and add some felt or rubber foam to dampen the sound.

Curious how it's teetering on Lemon Law? You're on replacement engine #2 and possible new transmission #1, both are separate issues. Has the vehicle been out of service for more than 30 business days? Also, these issues are showing up beyond 2yrs after original delivery date (at least I'm assuming it didn't sit on the lot for 2 years before being first registered). I see there is a possible stipulation that you may have a claim, but more difficult. Don't get me wrong, it totally sucks what's happening, but it seems a little early to be thinking Lemon Law. Maybe a good-will buy back? But, if they Lemon it and you get out of it without much money lost, all the better since the issues would probably be in the back of your mind all the time.