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My car did not come with a manual (should it have?) and I ended up buying a used one off ebay. IDK if the ST trim got it's own manual or addendums, I just got an "edge" manual and have read a good portion of it. Something I do with all the vehicles I buy. You can see manuals online here(I think there was a PDF version if you wanted to print it): https://www.ford.com/support/owner-manuals/ Despite being an 80's baby I still enjoy flipping paper and the feel of a #2 pencil on paper😉

Right now the ground is going to the floor right behind the rear seat. You want ground wires short, there is def no room to run another 1/0 cable run along side the power wire. This amp will pull 250-300+ amps at 1ohm. Here is an amp dyno by Williston Audio and he is using a clamp gauge during the tests: After sleeping on it I think I am going to add a ground wire from the seat belt bolt to the sheet metal ground I am using.

OK, rather than some smart ass remarks, I'll share more of what is going on with the power wire. I find that the factory system is boomy but lacks that bottom end punch. My goal is to keep the factory sub and add in something more substantial. First, we added a ground wire today. I saw some folks were running a ground wire to where the amp is in the back of the hatch. That's not for me, I like shorter grounds for my amps. Wire wheel'd both sides where the ring terminal bolts in, not sure that I really like how thin the metal is, but the seat bolt was not giving me a good clean connection. I am going to sleep on this as I am still not fully sold on this ground point. Maybe I will take out the back seats and clean up the seat belt bolts to see if we can get a more robust connection. OH I found this, too...I've not had my edge long and noted that the hold down for the spare tire was missing, there is still part of the hold down missing. This was under the rear seat. Shitty styrofoam put back. The speaker wire is tied into the factory sub. Everything is intentionally extra long. I've got some plans to replace all of the styrofoam with something else. More on that later. Some goodies, the power wire is already installed. Sonic Electronix shorted me on a fuse block so I am stuck waiting on them 🙄 You can also see the slice in the power wire bag FROM THEM. It came that way. Thankfully the power wire was not nicked. The power wire is to support these two guys. I have a sub as well which is slated for installation. To really maximize the amp/sub I really need more alternator, this amp will pull some serious power and I'm afraid that 210a simply isn't enough 🤣 Edit: I guess the forum software has decided I need this pic twice. I delete it, and it comes right back. GG forum software.

FYI...you will also need a brake controller for the 7 pin, converting the 4 pin to 7 pin doesn't magically add a trailer brake.

To the hatch, we can see this in the photo.

Personally, it sounds like an issue with grounds that need to be cleaned. This is where I would start. I had random issues with my wife's fusion where messages would spawn on the HUD. The car would jerk left or right when my daughter was driving it and throw up a message about ABS. I could never replicate it, a shop could not replicate it or find codes, but after cleaning up some of the grounds under the hood the problems stopped. Couple in the fact that the dealer replaced a ground cable for you, and the problems stopped for some time, again, I would clean the grounds first.

Ran power wire last night.

Like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/225549174397

Re: mobile version: Sounds like product management failed to add sigs to mobile app on the product roadmap 🙃 2020 Edge ST.

Froscan might be able to do it for you, I do not have the same year as you so I cannot check the service functions for your year. I believe there was a service procedure in forscan for my wife's fusion and if needed I could find out tonight. I guess let me know and I can take a look at the Fusion. Edit: Here are the service procedures available in forscan for the 2013 Fusion. Here are two adapters that will work with forscan: https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-EX-FORScan-OBD-Adapter/dp/B081VQVD3F https://www.amazon.com/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B094Z7PBLS/ Here is where to get forscan, you will need a windows laptop: https://forscan.org/home.html

I don't think I would do an exhaust, the car is quiet. Wish it had a little more pep though.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt Find an edge with the feature you want for example from Auto Trader Get the as built detail using a vin# and compare to your existing as built detail. Make changes as desired. I've not seen any edge specific spread sheets and have been using the F150 sheet as a reference point. I am also maintaining a running change history log on all changes made using forscan. It should go without saying but the first thing to do with forscan is to backup your modules just in case you need to revert. Here are all of the forscan sheets I have, if you have others, please share. Ford Explorer 2011-2015: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JHLK2oCBe-E5om9VNeY6e3NwboO9Em0dDBZIgUVyGxc/edit?gid=0#gid=0 2g Fusion: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1yax6zfhZYj2joBczEeruqKh9X5Qhee3C0ngilqwTA7E/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true 2017+ super duty: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1qf2gYgkhmsX-dnFO3Ki0nYUvr7aeLKsHsA0WxhDns1s/edit?gid=0#gid=0 F150 2015-2020: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=338817466

FWIW these steps also work on a 2020 Edge ST. The detail for the unprogrammed fob...waiting for the car is critical.

In this thread https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/28586-audio-build-in-2019-edge-st/#comment-210300, the OP is using an Audio Control LC2i Pro. If you zoom in on the image of the LOC, you will note there is no remote wire used on the LOC. This loc has three different methods to turn on, one of which is using an audio signal so the remote wire isn't needed to turn on the LOC, and the LOC provides a remote turn on terminal for an amp. More than likely, I will be using the same LOC but part of me wants a traditional remote wire. It could be possible to use one of those add-a-fuse https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0827L4HH9/ and piggy back off of something in the fuse box for an ignition switch option. You would need to run a wire from the fuse block up front to the rear of the car. The fuse box would need to be modified to allow this wire to pass through the lid which may not be desirable.

I was really hoping to reduce clutter in the cockpit, but I guess we will need to use standard chargers. I ended up buying a cell phone mount for my iphone and run the cable to the phone. In the glove box is a 12v charger and cables.🤣 And you're right about a 30w charger.

I disabled following information in forscan sheets and seems to have made a difference (subjective) on what it was sounding like before. I could be totally wrong but it is disabled. The model I have is in my sig in case you missed it.

The video:

I didn't really know where to tuck this in the forums. Car in sig, has wireless charging for phones. Whether I use my iphone 12 or my wife uses her iphone 15, the wireless charging constantly reports charging or gives an error indicating that there is an obstruction/charging has stopped (sorry don't have the exact error message). I did a search on the forums but didn't come up with much and as a work around I am using a cable, which is fine because I get carplay, but my wife never charges her phone and it would be nice for the phone to charge without constant popups on the infotainment. I still have a 12v charger so my wife might just to need to use that as a workaround but workarounds are janky and not a proper fix.

Yesterday I disabled the fake engine sounds and seat belt minders using forscan. Today I washed the car.

After the battery was tested, it started to show up in the app, not in low power mode.

Today I installed a new battery and cleaned up some of the grounds with a wire wheel.

So an update FWIW. After I went to the parts store and the battery was tested, the car was showing up in the app later on....but I had already ordered a new battery. Cleaned up some grounds and slapped in the new battery tonight and reset the BMS.

Looks like an H6 will fit, ordered one.

So I went to the parts store and they said the battery life was in the 25% range so it sounds like a new battery will be needed. Is there a specific brand/model that folks typically prefer? Is there a larger battery I can fit in there?

So a few times I have been in the car and the radio turns off sooner than it should and gives a notice about battery save. I'll see about a battery test. Sig updated.