Grey

Since customer cash and sometimes dealer cash is controlled by the zip code where the vehicle will be registered, I question whether you would qualify for the incentives a local resident would get. You better have a conversation with a border dealer to see what their experience has been with Canadian sales. In the States, you can qualify for the same deal wherever you purchase - all zip code controlled. Let us know what you find out.

Job 1 is June 5, as I recall. Guess that makes it Summer. Mustang is early (March).

Ford shuffled the deck but the $3k is still there. The RCL support was reduced. Any retail deal cut last week is still good.

Repairs done under warrranty do not extend the time and mileage. Customer paid repairs are usually warranted for one year or 12,000 miles.

I'm retired and don't have acess to the test data, but we used to test and qualify oils. When we couldn't get a pass we asked for the oil suppliers test results and they admitted they had to test multiple times to get a pass. I did not say that a full synthetic was not as good as Motorcraft's synthetic blend - where did that comment come from? Look, you are wearing me out, do whatever you want to do.

Let me comment on " what I have read about the MotorCraft Blend oil [what appears to be from Conoco Trop Artic oil] it seems to be fairly decent oil" ------- When I used to review the test results against specifications, I found that various motor oil formulators would develop a blend of oils and additives that would marginally meet the specification in at least one test out of ten. When asked to demonstrate compliance with the specification, they would show the one test that passed. Part of the requirement that Ford has with it's suppliers (yes, more than Conoco, depending on the plant and Ford component) is that every batch meet the Ford specification, every test. So, when you see "Meets the manufacturers specifications" ask yourself how many times they tested it to get one pass. Ttheir major concern is minimizing the material cost of their product, where Ford has much higher considerations - protecting an $8,000 engine is just one of them.

"My point being, I would like to offer the most protection w/o having to spend a ton on over priced oils or extra change intervals" You and the Ford engineers are of the same mind! That is why they recommend a synthetic blend oil for most applications. They are perfectly appropriate for normal engine operation when you follow the maintenance schedule for your vehicle. They typically cost less than a full synthetic (the last 5 quart jug I bought a WallMart was $11.50), which helps the "Cost of Ownership" factor. The specification "WSS-M2C930-A " was developed by the Ford engine engineering group and one of it's most important properties is it's viscosity (cSt value) at 212 degrees F. (Normal engine operating temperature). Amsoil 5W30 does not meet the spec. I believe only a 5W20 or 0W20 could possibly meet the Ford specification. The engineers recognize that wear at start up is an important.consideration and recommend a full synthetic Motorcraft 5W20, or other full synthetic 5W20 or 0W20 (that meets the Ford spec.), especially for extreme cold environments.. In an engineers mind, (because they are focused on an engine operating at temperature) oil thickens as it cools. The thinner it is at ambient temperature, the quicker it lubricates at start-up A full synthetic 5W20 or 0W20 will typically be thinner at ambient temps. than a synthetic blend, but will cost a lot more.. So a synthetic "Blend" is not just a blend of olis and additives, but a blend of engine operating need and ownership cost. I do suspect that an engine engineer in Michigan would prefer a full synthetic 0W20 if he/she had a vehicle they were keeping long term, especially if they parked outside through the cold winter months. Oil also thickens as it ages and incorporates contaminants, If you want to improve your engine lubrication beyond the Ford requirement, I suggest you consider a 5-6.000 mile change interval with a 5W20 synthetic blend oil. That is what I use for my vheicles in Georgia. Look at cSt values at 212 degrees and at your temps at start-up as well as the Ford specification in the oils under consideration..

A comparison of motor oils that have nothing to do with meeting the Ford spec. for our vehicles doesn't help. But do whatever you want. It's your engine and your responsibility.

Better luck today! LOL

akirby - great post. This is exciting stuff. I wish I could have been a CES in Vegas to see all of this in person. Thanks for finding it so promptly and sharing.

FDAA is a local fund the dealership pays into on each vehicle. The local dealer group can decide how to use the fund. Some will go to local advertising and some may go to additional incentives on vehicles they choose to "spiff". Atlanta might put $500 on Edges for local zip codes and Memphis might put money on F150's.. Regardless where you buy, you only qualify for the incentives for your zip code. Logic would tell you that incentives go on what isn't selling well, or where the competition has heavy incentives. If GM puts more on their CUV's this week, Ford may decide to respond with more also. If our foresight was as good as our hindsight we would know exactly what time to buy. There have been higher incentives - year end closeouts. See the leftover 2009's. Good luck with your decision.

I doubt that Ford knows yet what the Jan 11 incentives will be until Fri. What are they now in your zip? Does it include any FDAA funds? In my area today there is $3k total on retail.

Hi Carla, welcome to the forum. Call your dealership and ask them if they have received their kit to do the radiator/heater core flush. The kit includes special fittings, clamps, a bucket, etc. Give them your VIN and ask them to run an OASIS coded to heater function and they will pull up the instructions and material required. No sense going in if they don't have the kit yet ----BUT you do want to go in before 105,000 miles, even if they don't have the kit, to document your eligibility. Service advisors are not aware of every service notification or TSB that is in the system. Unless they code the concern into OASIS and identify all the material available from Ford on potential concerns, it is perfectly normal for them not to be aware of specific issues. See my earlier post on how they will diagnose your concern. You won't need the letter from Ford as they can find out what they need to know from OASIS. If you have moved since buying your vehicle, that may explain why Ford (Corporate) did not communicate with you.

"Speaking of manuals, is a 2010 Service/Technical Manual available on CDrom somewhere?" The official source would be Helm, Inc. (Helm.com) Alternatively, keep checking e-bay. A lot of dealerships have closed their doors in the last10 months and their resource material will sometimes wind up there.

I have not looked, but I suspect that the long prongs are just locators and the adhesive backing completes the install. You should not need to get behind the mounting location unless it appears that there is a speed nut used on the prongs. If the prong is smooth, I doubt there is anything back there. So, now how do you seperate the emblem from the deck lid? You might try dental floss from the top and from the bottom. If it is clear that it is working, pull the emblem off and clean the mounting area with an alcohol prep pad or swab. Remove the protective layer from the adhesive and slide the emblem into place If this makes sense to you based on what you are holding in your hand, give it a try and let us know how it went.

State side incentives run thru Jan 11. Might chech next Monday to see if they changed.

Normally, you wouldn't have to do anything special, and a lot of people don't - so they assume, and may advise you, to drive it like you stole it. Most people won't have any problems, unless they go wild during the break-in. Now if you really want to know what the Ford engineers would prefer - they would tell you to: Very your speed for the first 1,000-2,000 miles. Don't set the speed control and take off on a 400 mile trip. You want gears to experience a wide wear pattern to avoid noise later on. If you do have to take a highway trip change the speed up as much as you can. Avoid jack-rabbit starts. But occasionally run the vehicle up to highway speeds at 3/4 throttle and let off on the gas pedal to build up some pressure on the piston rings - this helps them seat. Leave the factory fill oil in the vehicle for 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Always use a 5W20 or 0W20 motor oil that meets the Ford spec. Synthetic Blend or full Synthetic will do ok at normal change intervals. Don't ever go beyond the Ford maintenance intervals. Hard stops from high speed build up a lot of heat between the brake pads and the rotors. All heavy stops should be made short of the "line" by 8 to 10 feet, so you can roll out the heat built up on the rotor and pads (don't come to a hard stop and leave the pad at the same point on the rotor - at 1,400 degrees it can transfer pad material to the rotor and create a warp like condition.) Follow this forum for great insights and most of all - ENJOY

The factory Sirius radios in the Fords won't support the Music Only (50 channel) $6.99 a month deal. I tried to get that first when my 6 months ran out.

In talking with one of my technician buddies, he tells me that you should only used distilled water with the Gold antifreeze. He speculated that hard water might have contributed to the problem. The way they tell if there is a problem that needs to be resolved is to measure the temperature from the vents on both sides of the radio - full hot and full heat - with a hot engine. If there is more than a 15 degree difference between the two readings, then do the backflush and cleaning, then replace the antifreeze with the new green stuff. It is a 3 hour job and not one you want them to do if you don't have a heating problem. It involves removing water connectors and housings, crimping off hoses and running the vehicle for hours to circulate the old antifreeze and cleaners out of the engine and heater core. We have been advised to only use distilled water for years, could this be the example that proves the point? I guess I should keep a gallon in my garage and not let some lube jockey add tap water to my radiator.

I don't recall seeing wheel locks standard on any series. Could this be something the dealer added - perhaps as a theft deterent while the vehicle was on the lot? Call your sales person and ask where the lugnut socket is. We usually attached the socket to the tire tool when we installed the accessory kits.

Sync has been out there long enough that you would think cell phone manufacturers and retailers would tell you if their units fully function with Sync. My wifes phone connects but would not upload the phone book. But I hear the affiliate developers are working to expand Sync's capability in this regard. Perhaps we will hear more from the Consumer Electronics Show. Now that I'm retired, I don't get to go there (or SEMA) anymore. Those shows were always very informative.

Interesting note from the Royal Purple site--- "Can I put Royal Purple into my brand new car? Yes. Royal Purple currently offers many viscosity grades of API-licensed motor oils. To allow for proper break-in of the engine, Royal Purple recommends waiting until the manufacturer’s first scheduled oil change or a minimum of 2,000 miles in new gasoline engines. Allow 8,000 to 10,000 miles before using Royal Purple in diesel engines" I see they also have a break-in oil that they sell for new and remanufactured engines - helps protect roller tappets, and reduce cylinder wall glazing. Some full synthetic oil suppliers say no break-in is required - don't trust them.

I suggest you wait until at least 2-3,000 miles before you do the first change to ensure the rings have seated good. Introducing a full synthetic too early might prompt cylinder wall glazing.

There is some good advice. I might also add, since I presume you live in Chicago, you are a candidate for 0w20 oils that meet the Ford specification. It will help reduce wear at start-up on those cold mid-west mornings. No to any 5w30 ---too viscous at start-up and too viscous at 100 degrees C. (cannot meet the Ford Spec.)

The disputes are not usually about the brand of oil, they are about the condition of the engine and the obvious lack of maintenance or improper products used. I've seen people drag out receipts, swear they did it themselves or the corner luber did it regularly, etc. LACK OF LUBRICATION IS NOT WARRANTABLE. If there is a lubrication issue and the Ford/L/M dealer maintained the vehicle, I would expect them to stand behind their work - just like I would expect you to stand behind your work, if you do it yourself. Do not disillusion yourself by thinking receipts for parts, or from the lube shop prove anything or guarantee Ford warranty coverage I've seen sludge, collapsed filter media, galded bearings, clattering valve trains, broken timing belts, cracked heads (overheating) and blown engines. Owner responsibility. Rare, but it happens. Ask the guys that decided to use 10w40 or 10w30 in their 5.4L trucks because that is what they have been using for years.